True grasshopper.. but in extreme cases, ie. Toledo where my B3 would bottom out, making the chassis smmmooooottttthhhhhhh helps...

OK ...... NOW EVERYONE ...... GET BACK TO WORK ! :wave:

One last thing ....... Greg could you bring your truer on friday ?
Bob

gee, sounds like Bob's jealous.... anywho, I'm just curoius how many of you all have any r/c related things at work?

Not jealous ....... just wish I had a steady day job to pay the bills and live a little more comfortablly . ya know .
Hey if you guys wanna talk R/C all day .....I'm up for it .
Some times I take my car to work and leave stains on the carpet , unfortunatly being the night janitor ......I have to clean it up . lol

Bob :dude:

I'll bring my truer on Friday. I have 1/12th bits, too. Also, after Rich shows you how to build the diff, bring it over to me, the master. :) I'll show you the real way to build a diff.

OK .....now I have 3 mechanics for friday ............
now I need to hire a driver .......
didnt I see Masami hanging around the last few weeks?
Bobo:roll:

Keith - hoo hoo. Funny boy. :p Hey, you sure have been on here a lot. I hope your car is ready for Friday. If not, you should be banging on that and not the keyboard. :D

(I assume we are not going to touch Bob's comment about leaving stains on the carpet at work)

"stains on the carpet " >>>>>>>> yuk yuk<<<<<< should read " BURN OUTS!"

well, is that better or worse then stains on your pit towel?:confused:

just putting a 12th scale car together what is a good setup for the 12l3 car on carpet? what color fronts and rears also tire size to start at both front and rear. for stock and also mod?

Standard universally accepted 12L3 set up for Ozite is as follows. Purple fronts (sauce for steering amount).
018 or 020 front springs
1 degree toe out 1.5 degree of camber
ride height determned by bumps
Stock caster setting
Arms on chassis-cut tires to get rideheight.

30 wt. oil in VCS shock, grn, red, blue etc. spring (in other words-any of the medium to med. stiff springs).

Set damper plate with light tension and keep it clean. A very light coat of lube.

069 to 074 tweak plates (buy a bunch of them, they are not what they say on the package!!!)
Stiffer the plate, the more steering, but more twitchy. Use all three screws if you hit stuff or youll stress crack a t-plate every weekend, then it wont work right!!!

Grey rears sauced full always. Rear level w/ front or a little lower to smooth out steering.


I dont remember size tires exactly, but I think 1.80" front and 1.90" rear wouldnt be bad. With 1.80" fronts, you might need to shim up arms till they drop to 1.75" or so to keep ride height even with rear.

guess what............... TWO broken diff rings
" no I dont hit any thing" right
guess I found out what 4 diff balls will do for ya.

Gee Bob, what did you think you were running, a drag car so you needed a spool, now let's see how that baby turns!

NOOOOO............ nitro onroad doh

Ok heres the new set up , tell me what you think:
88/28 with 1.825" rear tire for 1.82 rollout
six balls in diff now
refit axle brgs & adj. .010" axle end play
ride height at .125" frt with 1.7" tire / .145" rear
three screws thru thick T plate / .024" shim under frt pivot
neg 1 deg camber
10deg mounts set at 4 - 2 caster
slight toe out (.020")

No spring changes yet Riders didnt have any maybe Larrys does.
wish I had some place close to try it
C YA friday Bob

Anyone besides Josh tried those new "granite " rears from TRC ?
They are supposed to give more corner speed ( the outside ring is black compound and the inner 2/3rd is gray)

OK last one:
my car weighs 27 1/2oz, w/o transponder , should I add the 1/2oz to the front,or near the middle , next to the ant . mount, I'd like to run it legal so the set up will be right for CRL and get the tweek set right
Thanks for everyones input on this ! hopfully it will help me out ,
NOW WHO wants to be my motor sponsor ? LMAO
BOB

add the weight as close to dead center (front/back and side/side) as possible, if you add the weight to the front or rear you will have more weight to transfer during breaking or accelerating which may actually amplify any handling problems you already have.....

I dunno... In theory, for full-size cars, yes. But, 1/12th scale cars don't weigh that much and don't transfer much weight from front to back. Maybe from side to side? Plus, if rcsilly is using brakes in stock 1/12th, that might explain his slow corner speeds?

I haven't touched the brakes once on my car in 4 weeks of racing 1/12th . In fact it seems like the last 6 min of my heats I dont even let off full throttle , except to let Rich go flyin by . I'm bringing rubber bands tonite as my throttle finger gets sore from squeezing it so hard .
Bob :dude:

Anyone running the older style Associated front end on there 12L3? If so any pros, cons, tips , tricks with these.

Knock Knock anyone home?

On the old style front end, I used a piece of a business card under the inside half of the block to give it less camber. I always liked running about 1 degree.

Thanks Motor City. Not a bad idea, but I have some Parma camber shims. Clear plastic labeled 1 thru 3. Remember those? ;)

You still need to take camber and caster measurements. Those plastic shims aren't always accurate.

On the old school front end I have one of the inserts was 1 deg off. However, the shims I have are by AE and are not Parma. Parma stuff is usually better quality.

if you really want to get technical you can got to a local supply company like grainger and get shim stock they offer it in manny diferent thickness like from .001 and up we all know that the old front end isn't the same from side to side.

Hey guys, I have read through about 80% of this thread, and have learned a lot so far. I am just getting started in 1/12th scale. I have ran just about everything else r/c, but this is all new to me.
Here is my ride (http://www.action-rc.com/cars/RC12L3/chassis1.jpg) , got it for $50 with the steering servo (Hitec) and 3 3000 Reedy matched packs. (I know they are old, I will be getting some new ones for racing. Those will be practice packs. I am told the car is a L2, and I plan on converting it mostly to a L3 since not much is different. I would like to use the 3 screw hubs I think. Those wheels and tires are trashed, so I need to buy new anyways. I plan on racing Bay City and Larry's with it, and I have read some good set up info in this thread that I think will get me all set up. Just need to get used to it and learn all the little tips and tricks to setting up the car right. I look forward to learning.

Not a bad deal! What type of Hitec servo is that?

It is a 225BB. Just need to get some other minor parts, like a body lol.

that is the good chassis. form what i understand the older associated chassis doesn't flex as much as the new on. it is a little heavier but I have one and it ripps. I think that trc makes there tires with either 2 or 3 bolt patterns. good deal.

The TRC tires are combo wheels..Meaning they can do either 2 or 3 bolt...

http://www.teamtrinity.com/tires/images/112rear.jpg

:thumbsup: TRC

Ah thats cool. Thanks for the info. Maybe I will keep it 2 bolt for now, get some TRC's, then later on I can go 3 bolt if I feel the need. What do you guys think? 2 or 3 bolt? I would think 3 bolt would make the tires run truer.

You have the best of both worlds with the TRC rims so just stay 2 bolt for now. You wont see an improvement with 2 or 3 bolt hubs. I have a ton of 2 bolt tires and rims if you ever wanted to do your own tire mounting!!!! But-not for me!!! Pre-built or nothin'!!! I'm lazy!!!

The main reason I prefer the 3 bolt design is that you can use a long setscrew, thread it into one of the holes with lock tight on it and use it as a guide to allow you to mount your wheels on the hub much more quickly...... Besides it is the newest piece and looks cooler to me...LOL

Why 2 bolt ever became the standard wakes on since to me......

Can the rev.3 only be purchased through hobbyetc or can I have my LHS order one for me? Also, what's the part number for the kit? I live in Arizona, and I'd rather get the car through my LHS than mail order.

Thanks, Eric

YOur LHs would have to become a Speedmerchant dealer. To be honest-a lot of parts are Associated parts (front arms, spindles, bearings, springs, kingpins, axle, pod plates, VCS Micro shock, diff rings, etc., etc. that even if you buy the car from Hobbyetc. your LHS will make the money where they always have-the spare and hop-up parts!!!

I would just order it from Hobbyetc and get your parts from LHS. Oh-yeah-from Hobbyetc. also order all of the side springs (Orange, Blue, White, etc.....).

Its part number 1400

If you dont know this already-the car is awesome!!! Its fast, easy to drive and is endlessly adjsutable. It will work well on low grip carpet and oh-my-god traction like at big carpet races!!!

Ray speaks the truth!!! It is the most dialled 12thscale car ever constructed. Infinitely adj. exceptional build quality, and no taping batteries!! Plus the car just plain looks cool. The parts interchangability is high, and virtually anything you break can be easily replaced at any dealer who carries AE gear. My local hobby store doesn't carry Speedmerchant products, but I'm working on 'em. I mean please.... They carry Corally stuff. Anyway, if you get the car you'll be nothing but pleased. Plus on this forum there are a wealth of individuals who run the car, so set-up advice is just a short post away. :devil:

Hey now, watch what you say about those Corally cars. Oh wait... I run a Rev.3, too. :D

As everyone else has said, it is GREAT car. I ran a 12L3 the last 3 years.

But, I switched to the Rev.3 this year just to try something different. All I can say is, I wish I hadn't waited so long.

Thanks for the speedy replies on the part number, etc. One other thing I forgot to ask. How much does it cost? I need to get permision from the treasury dept. (wife) before I can make purchases over $10.00 :D

Also, I've read all 20+ pages of this thread and it seems to me that the Rev.3 is the better car for carpet. Hopefully in mid Nov. a new store will finally open in my area, 18,000+ sq.ft. of hobby store, carpet & offrd tracks.

Thanks guys,

E

I prefer the CRC cars personally, but I believe either car will be fast..... It's just me but I like more steering....

However I am concidering a second 1/12th car for asphalt.... does anyone have the Speedmerchant website address, I used to have it but it got lost and I can't find it to save my life.....LOL

Right now I am triing to band together a group of 4-5 guys to race 1/12th with so that we can race at the local track and once a month take a day trip and invade one of the 3 other tracks in the area!!!!

www.teamspeedmerchant.com:devil:

I think I missed it... but what's the difference between the rev.3 and the crc.

Does the crc come with the Assoc. style front end, where as, the rev.3 has its own design?

Why does one seem to have/give more steering than the other?

Someone please inform me as to the diff./benifits, etc.

Thanks,
E

Here is what Speedmerchant says:

This is a close up of the "old skool" front end used by many of our team drivers. Just a note about this. Here at SpeedMerchant, we do a lot of testing, and I can tell you on our car the old style front end works better about 90% of the time. Here's what we've found over the past few seasons.


The new stlye front end is better on bumpy tracks. Hopefully yours' isn't like that, but in our travels we've been on some pretty scary surfaces. In these cases, we put the new style front ends on the cars.


The "old skool" (yes, I realize that's not how school is spelled) front end gives our car more steering entering a corner than the new style front end.


In the center and exit of the turn it has slightly less steering than the new style front end.


This tends to compliment our chassis' handeling characterisitcs. Because of having all the weight in the centerline of the chassis, the Rev.3 doesn't transfer as much weight as most 12th scale cars do when entering a sharp corner, this can lead to "push" or "understeer". Like I said earlier the old style front end remedies this situtaion.


Once you're in the corner the Rev.3 makes it VERY easy change your line(passing), and to drive tight and fast. Why? Because The Rev.3 didn't transfer all that weight when it initially went into the corner, it now doesn't have to wait for the transfered weight to rebound and then settle back down. The Rev.3 stays flat through the entire corner. Remember, when ever you have any motion other than forward, ie. side to side swaying, you are loosing foward momentum. That's a fact. So a flat chassis equals extra speed and efficiency that wasn't robbed in the corners.


The "old skool" front end has much less "slop" than the new style. Whenever you have "play" in a suspension, either from wear or poor assembly you are just asking for inconsistency.


The "old skool" front end weighs about 1/2 of what a new one weighs. This lowers your cars total weight as well as lowering its' center of gravity.


The "old skool" front end can take a good hit and not go out of tweak. The new style front end is notorious for "moving" after a hard hit and then throwing the whole car out of tweak. Tons-o-times over the past few years drivers have brought me cars to look at with the complaint "It's out of tweak." After going through the car, guess where the problem is usually found. The front end. Either the delrin pivot balls are bound up, a spring is collapsed, or just too much play in the parts, etc, etc, etc.


Remember the K.I.S.S. theory on racing. Keep It Simple Stupid.

I personally prefer the new front end, I also prefer a car that includes the new front end..... however I do have an old school front end, and it's a whole lot cheaper to buy the old front end at $20 in parts than the new at $40......

I personally hate the "new" front-end, due to it's inconsistency, and lack of durability. The "Old Skool" front-end is just way more durable and less prone to moving around after a hit. I also don't feel that the CRC car has anymore steering than the Rev. 3. I switched to a Rev.3 from the Knife. I really didn't feel that I lost any steering at all, what I did notice was a car that was just as agressive, yet way less likely to square off the apex of a tight, fast corner.

There are several differences between the Knife and the Rev.3. These are the biggies: Outboard tweak-spring location, better damper tube geometry, adjustable battery position, adjustable side links, slightly longer wheelbase. All these things add up to a car that I find easier to drive, and more consistent from run to run. :devil:

As with all forms of racing, cars are personnal preferences. I own/race a CRC 6-pack and you would have to pry it from my cold dead fingers. I find the car much more consistant, smooth, and aggressive than any car I have previously driven. I also have never had any breakage with the new front end..... however my dad has about 12 left side old school fronts.....LOL

However I am concidering triing a different brand as a second car..... Or I will just get a BLOODY RED CARPET KNIFE (drool).........

What do you guys think of the new Trinity SB 12 02 and how does it compare to a carpet knife 3.1?

Nothing compares to the Knife....LOL

NitroBurner74 - Do you by chance have a 1974 Corvette, spiced with Nitro? Or is the logo and name just for show?