No offense to all the backyard bashers, but I wanted a thread for race topics only. Stock truck, Modified, Anyone with setup info , race hopups, race problems, part engineering , overall suggestions or comments. Please post here. See you at the track fighting off XXXT's and AE's

Bluelight- Good idea. I raced mine this weekend and it held up great, but my setup sucked. New track, no practice. Got any idea on rears for a wet clay track? My bowties were packed after about 30 feet.

I'm also running Losi shocks on mine, they're much easier to fill than the stock ones, and they offer so many more springs, pistons, etc. Right now I'm running a Core Stock motor w/ a Novak Fusion ESC and Deans's connectors all around, works great. I ran a 22 tooth pinion this weekend, which is a little over-geared, but I was trying to control slip. I think a 20 is probably right for a stock motor on a small (50' x 100') track.

What kind of batteries are you using? I'm thinking about going to 3000 mah Nimh batteries.

For that kind of surface you need big pins that won't hold dirt. Look around at what other people are running, but I'll betcha it's studs or step pins. If it's really sloppy you can try Reptiles. If it's wet all the time the harder compund will do better, if it's watered occasionally and dries out the softer compound might be a better compromise.

GP3300s are the only batteries anyone should buy for anything. Yes, I mean it.

Dan- Most of the guys were running square fuzzies or Ifmar pins, but they were having problems too. They were running the stock trucks 1st (no novice class) so it was really wet. I've had goos luck with the stock Duratrax pins on wet tracks, but they were hard pack with loose sand on top which is more typical of the tracks around here.

I'd love to have a set of GP 3300's, but last thing I heard they weren't ROAR legal. This track has hosted 3 ROAR nationals that I'm aware of (July 2002 was the latest) so they try to stay as close to legal as they can even for the club races.

I'm sure they'll be legal pretty soon, but OK. If it's an active track you might find some racer selling last season's packs. They'll still be better than stick packs.

Seriously, try red step pins when it's wet. They cut through the mud slick and find the hard track below. The IFMAR studs work better on soft tracks.

I have kept the stock shocks, but rebuilt them with 30wt. Much better. I am using SMC 2400's and fast1's 2400's for batteries. They have good punch and last the whole race 5-6 minutes. I charge them on a Novak Rhino @ 6amps. I agree with Dan for loose or sloppy tracks I use step pins hard pack "blue groove" tracks Holeshots or fuzzy T's Deans plugs everywhere speed control soldered right to motor. I run a Team Big Block stock motor. 18 tooth pinion seems about right for where I race. Rooster speed control since I had it laying around. I raced two weeks ago and fried the diff, idler, and rear trans mount. That is my second trans mount, maybe to much air time??? For $1.99 I will hold off on the aluminum one. The diff was my fault to loose. I will race on the 7th and let you guys know how it turns out. I race stock truck and modified with the same motor. Last week I was in the top 4 of all my qualifiers until I broke out. Bummer.

Anybody seen any setup sheets for the Evader? I have some for the Losi XXT that I've been using, but of course they don't match perfectly.

Boy, I thought we would have more traffic on this thread. Looks like only 3 people race. I will be racing Saturday. Wish me luck. I have not seen or made an Evader set up sheet. I use a modified Losi one.

bluelightracer...
Where in MI do you race? I just picked up an Evader and am looking for some track time.

I race at Washtenaw fairgrounds in Saline. Once the new track in Brighton is open full time I will practice and race there also. Where are you located??

Bluelight- Good luck. I think we'll find some more racers. My time is limited because it revolves around my daughter's softball schedule (that's where I'll be all weekend), but I'll post as I race and figure things out.

I'm over on the east side... St. Clair Shores. The closest to me is probibly Larry's old indoor dirt track... it's called Berm Busters or something like that now. I was gonna check it out tomorrow, but nitro racing is on Saturdays:( Freedom Hill is really close... but that's been plowed into a parking lot:mad: I have heard some talk about reopening it, but no confirmations on this. I've never been much of a racer... I'm not into the competition. I run a touring car on Larry's carpet track, but never raced it. Too much fun working on the set-up and running the car than to worry about racing. I'd probibly do the same if I had a place to run the Evader, just have fun praticing with a few friends or my nephew who just bought an Evader. Until then... the backyard will get torn up:p

I thought I would pass along this weekends race report. I raced in stock truck and modified with a stock motor. Practice was not kind to me, head on with an Emaxx down the back straight (not good)Not my fault. Anyhow damage report front shock tower and bulkhead not to bad considering. Got parts and repaired the truck in time for qualifiers.
Stock truck qualifiers 2nd,2nd,4th Mod truck qualifiers 4th,1st,1st
After three qualifiers in each class I ended up in the B main for stock truck in 7th positionand finished 6th. In mod I qualified 4th in the B main and finished 5th. Most important I had a blast and thats what this hobby is all about. Hope to here some other racing updates on this thread.:)

Dead thread already???? Bummer.

No not dead, just waiting for a thaw like the Splendid Splinter. If I can work it out I'm going to try to race this Saturday.

Originally posted by bluelightracer
I thought I would pass along this weekends race report. I raced in stock truck and modified with a stock motor. Practice was not kind to me, head on with an Emaxx down the back straight (not good)Not my fault. Anyhow damage report front shock tower and bulkhead not to bad considering. Got parts and repaired the truck in time for qualifiers.
Stock truck qualifiers 2nd,2nd,4th Mod truck qualifiers 4th,1st,1st
After three qualifiers in each class I ended up in the B main for stock truck in 7th positionand finished 6th. In mod I qualified 4th in the B main and finished 5th. Most important I had a blast and thats what this hobby is all about. Hope to here some other racing updates on this thread.:)
What body do you use?And what color is it the stock Yellow?
I race @ Washtenaw as well....I plan on racing my Evader in Mod w/a mod...13T triple.I am getting tired of stock truck.I run a Dell motor too(stock) chrome can...Do you have the Jep-rc front brace yet??I ran my T3 last time.It is green with yellow and checker board ribbons on it and it was fast but just wasnt making me happy.Thats why it is time to bring out the evader,changae of pace...
Oh BTW my Evader will have a rtr T3 body on it with a yellow roof (I got the body that way) so you wont miss me.:wave:

I am running a stock yellow body. Take a look in the "lets see your rides" thread. I posted a couple of shots there. Have you had any trans/diff problems with running the mod motor?? I have a newer Black can motor, and I am very pleased with it's performance. No front brace yet. I am trying not to hit anything:) I will not be at the next points race on the 21st Christmas/family stuff to do:( i will be there on the 4th of Jan I'll look for you. Good luck racing with the underdog.

Dude I seen you!!I was watching when I was marshalling everytime you passed me lol.You sure did look good out there and im not kidding.I normally am in the B mains once in a while I get in the A mainly in stock buggy not truck.I tell ya I have broken 3 things in the last 2 days on my evader.chassis,front hub carrier,spindle.Yeah I need to quit jumping this thing in the house!:wave:

Thanks for the compliment. Don't feel bad I have rebuilt my truck more times than I can count. I also have broken 2 chassis. I bought an early model so I had lots of breakage issues. My big problem is the differential. I must be on my 4th or 5th diff rebuild kit. I do all my stunt driving with my old nitro Stampede. Winter is tough on our hobby. I plan on checking out the new track in Brighton, just for practice maybe some racing.

Didn't have a good run in the 1st heat, but was 5th in stock truck after the 1st round. Changed tires and pinion, and had moved up to 3rd in the 2nd heat when it happened. Over the double a little sideways, BLAM! Right front square into the pipe. Broken A-arm, broken steering bellcrank. CA'd the bellcrank, bought new XXT A-arms, problem solved, right? Wrong. They didn't have any outer hinge pins for the XXT, the Evader pins are slightly too big, and nobody had the right size bit! I was done. The lack of spare parts I think is the biggest problem with racing the Evader. There' s only one track here that stocks any parts for it. Of course, I should have had spares with me. On the plus side, this is the 1st breakage I've had. Too bad, because I was really getting the hang of the track and the truck was hooking up great.

Man, what's with the diff? I've heard other people complain, but I have had zero breakage problems with mine. Bluelight, how are you adjusting it? I just gave up on Duratrax's instructions and found a better way. Right now I'm running a Core Stock motor and 21T pinion, so I'm putting plenty of torque on it. BTW, this was my first time out with the new slipper assembly, and it rocks.

cj,

You said.....
I just gave up on Duratrax's instructions and found a better way.

What do you do?

Ok cj Please post your better way. I am tired of rebuilding. I usually tighten it out of the trans case, so I can see/feel when the screw bottoms out. Then I back it off a bit so the spring is still loading the diff. Sorry to hear about your "lost" race weekend. I know this sounds kind of hillbilly, I did the same with the xxt arms and opened the hole up with a drill bit. So the stock Evader pins worked. This was very short term, hey any porthole in a storm right. Besides I wanted to keep racing. I have since gone back to the stock evader arms. I agree parts are scarce at many tracks. Sometimes just finishing a raceday in one piece is a victory. :thumbsup: Keep racing guys.

I actually got my diff adjustment off one of the Evader forums about 7 or 8 months ago. I put the diff in the car and tighten it until I think it's "just snug", which really leaves me too loose. I then tighten the slipper all the way and put a fresh battery in the car. I accelerate full throttle (on pavement), and if the diff squeals I tighten it in about 1/8 increments until it stops squealing. Once it stops I leave it there. I'll run it for about 5 mins to make sure it doesn't loosen. If it does then I tighten it slightly. Then just loosen the slipper and you're set. It's worked great for me.

And hey, I did the hillbilly thing today because I couldn't get any Evader A-arms. The difference is really slight, I used a 7/64" bit. See the Evader Owners post becaues I have a question for everyone.

cjtamu... thanks for the diff adjustment tip. I believe you posted it up in either th FAQ or Evader ST thread. It works like a charm. :thumbsup: to not screwing up my diff anymore.

On a side note... I'm taking my truck to the track for the first time this coming week. I'm bringing my nephew along, who also has an Evader. Just pratice, see if I'm as bad off road as I am with a touring car:rolleyes: :D

MH- I have posted it before. Wish I could take the credit. I really wish I could remember who it was that 1st posted that tip so I could bow down and pay homage.

Good luck with the racing, it's a blast. And it's not all about winning, just a lot of fun. Pay attention to the experienced racers and look at their setups, particularly the spring combos and gear ratios. You can use the springs for the Losi XXT, which are usually available at the track.

Cj your right you can use "any" losi truck spring on the Evader.Also you can use the Traxxas springs to if that all you can come across.I will soon go to the losi front arms myself.The stock arms are to flimsy for my taste.

Hey, wanted to check everybody's setup. I'm using Losi shocks with pink springs on the rear and reds in the front. I have 2/3 of the spacer in front of the battery, and I actually have the rear ride height about 0.1" lower than the front, but the rear still wants to come around. I shortened the wheelbase today to see if that will help. Anybody tried anything else?

Stock springs with 30wt oil in the shocks. the track I run at seems to like the "soft" set up. All foam behind the battery. With a pack in the truck rear axles are level to the ground and the front is just a smidge lower.

cj, usually a short wheelbase makes for quicker steering truck you may have compounded your issue. I also saw your truck on the other post do all of us Evader racers drive yellow trucks? Looks good.

I have it set up with 25wt. front and 27.5 in rear.Rear axles level front arms level.Red losi springs up front and yellows out back.0 camber up front with 1 degree of camber out back.Batt centered in the chassis.Oh yeah stock Evader shocks.Man they are smooth :thumbsup: I wonder how long my super glued truck will last come saturday..????:confused: Ill have the T3 on back up but then again I might run the triple X instead and make sure the evader is ready (new parts no CA) Mod + 2WD buggy = interesting??

Bluelight- Yeah, I know it will make for a twitchier truck, but what's happening is the rear is slipping sideways. I have plenty of traction to the ground. So, what I'm thinking is I'll shorten the lever (the chassis) between the front and rear tires. If you could take it to the extreme and put the back wheels an inch behind the front, you wouldn't get much sideways slip at all. Some of it's tires too, because I have good traction in the later heats when the track dries. I'm gonna try and pick up a set of the stock tires and foams before Saturday. I wore the originals out bashing.

2nd- I like the action of the stock Evader shocks too, just not the way they're such a PITA to rebuild. I keep a set filled with 30 wt in my box.

Man, I just saw the post about y'all's track. 130 or 140 people a weekend? That's awesome. It's more like 40 around here. Houston is so big, and I can think of 5 tracks within an hour or less from my house. Plus, they're building at least 2 more, and there's one more that's supposedly built but not open. You'll see everybody together for a big race, but that's about it. So many people running gas now, I'd like to see one or two tracks where it was predominantly electric.

Yeah it makes for a very long day.But it is fun.The last racedays Ive ran 3 vehicles but I dont think I will be doing that anymore.It doesnt give me time to enjoy myself let alone have the time to fix things properly if need be.

I think,Wait,I know I will be running my tripleX on saturday.I just cant bring myself to run the CA'ed Evader.My T3 needs new bearings and the tripleX needs nada.So it will be a buggy filled weekend for me!:thumbsup:
Not to mention I need a new slipper for the Evader due to the sorry stock pads wearing so fast.

Hi people.... started racing a couple weeks ago. Good fun. I think my batteries are getting old. I'm running the 2400 Sanyo's. I have a Vision Peak charger. And from what I'm seeing, people are liking the new 3300's. Does anyone know if my charger can charge these up? Or are the 3000/3300's overkill for a 5 minute race? Should I stick with the 2400's... just get some new one's?

Hey Cj,
i dont race my evader but i go down to the track often and run on practice days for fun. i notice that my trucks rear tries to come around on almost everyturn. i tried the batt to the back and front and didnt notice much difference. running DirtHawgs in the rear and the stock tires on the front. i've been told its the tires that arent holding and bowties are the prefered tire at my track which is a hard pan dirt surface. i agree that the shocks are nice but they are indeed a PITA to rebuild. runing 30wt both front and rear and the stock springs since i do both track driving and bashing.

what motors are you guys using? i run a 17T jaguar with a 20tooth pinion. it seems to work well for what i use it for.

i also put a medal gear Hitec465 in, powerpole batt connectors instead of deans. oh, and i ditched the stock radio and went with a Futaba 2PH.

my pede has a 13T right now with an 18tooth pinion, super rooster, lowerd suspention, street tires and a Futaba 2PHKA radio. surpisingly the evader can still hang when i run them side by side.

both are on the "lets see your rides" thread if you wanna check'm out.

Later guys,
Q

If your truck is spinning out on every corner. you might want to try dialing your throttle trim so your truck rolls forward when you let off the gas. It could be when you let off the gas the rear wheels lock up from the drag of the motor. It takes alot of practice to roll through the corners with out letting off totally.

Went to a track I hadn't been to in awhile because they were doing a Toys for Tots race. Of course, it was me and one other electric truck, so they made us run with the gas trucks. Didn't qualify well and ended up in the B main. By the time the main started I was hooked up, and I ended up third. I actually was in second until the last 1 1/2 laps when (grab your throat and squeeze) I flipped it in a corner and let the guy I'd been fighting off for 8 laps around. He got the bump to the A-main and I got to pit for him. Funny, I could have sworn I topped off that tank.

Good news: 1) No breakage at a very rough track with 2 big triples, and ; 2) The Evader was hooked up and drew lots of attention. The only reason it didn't finish higher was driver error. There's a nasty little set of whoopdees (7 of them) at this track, and I had 3 people come up and ask me how the heck my truck was getting through them so well. I think a lot of people were impressed with the way it hung in with the nitro trucks, especially since I was only running a 19 double. There were seven of them behind it at the end of the main, so I think people are starting to see you can race it and do well. BTW, drilling the suspension worked great. It was smooth, quick, and much more predictable than before.

Originally posted by cjtamu
I shortened the wheelbase today to see if that will help.

cj, How did you do that?

Bill- Remove the hinge pin that holds the rear hub carriers in place. When you do, there will be 2 plastic spacers, one on either side of the hubcarrier. This is neutral. Putting both spacers in front of the carrier lengthens the wheelbase, putting both behind it shortens the wheelbase. If you do this, you might find out what I mean about the hingepins being tight. I used silicone spray to free them. I wouldn't use anything petroleum based (WD-40, oil, etc.) because I think it will weaken the plastic.

Bill- Remove the hinge pin that holds the rear hub carriers in place. When you do, there will be 2 plastic spacers, one on either side of the hubcarrier. This is neutral. Putting both spacers in front of the carrier lengthens the wheelbase, putting both behind it shortens the wheelbase. If you do this, you might find out what I mean about the hingepins being tight. I used silicone spray to free them. I wouldn't use anything petroleum based (WD-40, oil, etc.) because I think it will weaken the plastic.

Come on now cj,

I know I'm slow but I did not need to read it twice:lol:

Thanks for the info. I thought that was what you had done, no other options that I can see, just suprized that it would have that much effect.

Did it solve your problem?

Also, nice to hear you and your EVST are giving the others a run for their money :thumbsup:

Bill- Not written that way for your benefit but for others that might be a little newer to R/C and purusing this post. Not sure if it solved my problem because this was a different track, but the setup was great for this one. The top 3 nitro qualifiers were the only ones with 11 laps. I had 8 in the 1st heat, 9 in the 2nd heat, then 10 in the main without being real consistent, so I think with a little practice I could get it to 11 and hang with the gas guys. I hadn't driven there in about 6 months and was like "Whoa" when I got there because the layout was completely different. I got zero practice because I had to swap motors when I found out there was no electric class, so it was learning on the fly, but like I said the truck was great.

:lol: cj you must have hit the submit button twice because your post is there twice. I was just trying to be funny. You explained it very well, thanks.

Yeah, I lost my connection in the middle of it and didn't think I'd submitted the 1st time. In retrospect, you were pretty funny.

Hi fellow Evader Owners :wave:

I have a preview of couple of new Evader Hop-Ups on the Jep-R/C page. These will be available January 10th, 2003. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

LINK:
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep

Getting hooked up better, ended up 5th in the Stock Truck A-main. Still want more rear traction. Where are y'alls top and bottom shock mounting positions? I may take some steering away from the front.

Core Stock- Anybody running this motor? The 3 fastest guys are really running away from me in the straights. I had someone tell me this weekend to go to the Trinity 4499 brushes. I really like the P2K2 I put in my son's B2. BTW, no Evader breakage, one broken rear A-arm mount on the B2.

Been gone for awhile. First off CJ, good to hear you are running well, even with the Nitro's. My shock mounts are back to the factory positions. I played with many options nothing gave me the amount of steering I needed like new Losi tires. More rear traction soften up the rear shock preload. The Big Block motor I run is a hand wound Core motor it's great lots "o" torque. My back up motor is a tuned P2K from Fantom. Bad news just got my schedule for next week I have to work on Saturday:( No racing for me. Now a question for the masses. By now everyone knows the Evader has a brother and it happens to be Nitro. The nitro comes with CVD's!! Will they fit the electric? I belive they will since both trucks share many dimensions. That is good news for us. A cheap "stock" hop up. I will be checking this out this week when I visit my LHS. I will post here if they fit. Race hard.

Well I got to race this weekend. Started out rough, durring the 2nd stock qualifier I broke the trans brace and trans plate. Big tear-up missed the 2nd mod truck qualifier. Rebiuld with spare parts and a little luck got back out there and qualified 2nd in the C main for stock and 7th in the B main in mod. All in all not a bad weekend, but rebuilding this truck every race weekend is wearing on me.

hey just wanted to say hi and let anyone who needs them i am about half way done with a setup sheet for the evader, it may be a little time till it is done but i will get it done. i am trying to make it as neat and usefull as i can, when i am done i will let you all know and will need some ones help with how to post it one the board, but that is still some time away

later
matt

Could someone in this forum address/explain the different positions for camber links? Like on the transbrace or the frontend. Or provide a link to an article or two?

cant wait for that setup sheet:)

Oh, my.

Short version:

Shorter or more angled links reduce roll. Good for onroad where weight transfer doesn't buy you any more traction. Ultimately leads to slides.

Longer or more parallel links increase roll. Good for offroad where you want to push the outside tire down to gain more traction. Ultimately leads to traction rolls.

Long version... oh hell, someone find that thread.

Originally posted by jep_rc
Hi fellow Evader Owners :wave:

I have a preview of couple of new Evader Hop-Ups on the Jep-R/C page. These will be available January 10th, 2003. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

LINK:
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep

Pretty cool. On cars that have a rear brace it's usually on the back, though.