were are you breaking the a-arms?
if it's by the hinge pin try some of jep's braces.
if farther out, i don't know? :)

I already have an aluminum brace up front. The A-arms aren't ripping out from the bulkhead, in otherwords the type of breakage that I am getting would still be occuring with or without Jep's braces. The arms seem to almost always break from the pins with no damage to the bulkhead, and also break from were the shock attaches. With no damage to the pin or the shock....

John

that suck's. keep us posted if the xxt- arms fix that problehm.
i'm looking for xx spindles for my truck.

evadermotion
what are you running your truck on?(track/or bash)
wondering what it would take to break a a-arm.:confused:
:dude: peter

Bash:D
But that is just because it is winter....and I know parts become more brittle in the cold weather.

John

–gotta get rid of the Sprint ESC...can't stand it.

Originally posted by EvaderMotion
Bash:D
But that is just because it is winter....and I know parts become more brittle in the cold weather.

John

–gotta get rid of the Sprint ESC...can't stand it.

Try boiling them for 30 minutes or so.It "mgiht" help.It is worth a shot.I never broke a front arm.And I have the OLD arms.It seems the newer parts are better but still suk.
I switched to XXT front arms I did it because the stockers are too flimsy for me.The XXT shock tower will work......And the body mount.

Thanks 2nd Gear.
Yeah I know about boiling parts. Duratrax actually recommends boliing for 2 hours! Can you believe that? I want to race my car, not eat it. Anyways, I don't do that because of the time involved, and supposedly the plastic returns to it's original state after awhile. So I'd be boiling my car every night. Nice. i have better things to do...ahahahaha.
I will most likely upgrade to the Losi arms though...
I'll let you know how it goes after I do it.

John

Well I've raced the last two Mondays and the first week I took 3rd in all 3 heats. Yesterday was a little worse. We have different track layouts every week and this week the track was very fast. The right hander and the end of the straight was a killer. Kept flipping the Evader ST every lap. I am running the stock rubber. To much bite. The other guys there said I should go with GREEN FOAM TIRES. That said....where do I get those? Are they 2.2 also? Can I mount these 2.2 green foams on the stock white wheels or do I need different wheels? What wheels will work? Would like black wheels.

They also said to put 50 wt oil in the shocks. The racing is on carpet. What do you think?

Last question.....What do you think about the Mtroniks sport 15 totally waterproof speed controller? Should be excellent for snow bashing!

Please bear with me as I am new at the racing stuff.

Front tires:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3051&P=0
Rear tires:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3057&P=0
I think this is what your track friends were talking about. And yes I believe you will need to run different rims, but not sure on that one.

Hope this helps?
John

Thanks for the link to tires. Wouldn't I run the same size tire on all 4 corners of the truck? Buggy would have different size for the front. Correct?? Does anyone know what rims will fit the Evader ST that I can mount these green foams on to?
Thanks

The XXT front A-arms work great, but you will have to drill the holes for the hinge pin to fit. I posted what size bits I used earlier in this thread.

Read it. Printed it out. Now wish me luck. ;)

John

Luck. I hope I get some time to go racing soon. Right now my kids' schedules are running me ragged.

evadermotion

post some pics when your done. would like to see how you mount the shocks.

peter:)

ronbeck I belive the mounting would be the same from Evader to XXT CR....at least this is what I have been told. When I have time I will do this, and most likely I won't put up pics because my digital camera is broken, and I am not going to buy a desposable camera. But....if I can borrow one from a friend and upload some pictures, I definately will. Just don't hold your breath ;)

Originally posted by EvaderMotion
ronbeck I belive the mounting would be the same from Evader to XXT CR....at least this is what I have been told. When I have time I will do this, and most likely I won't put up pics because my digital camera is broken, and I am not going to buy a desposable camera. But....if I can borrow one from a friend and upload some pictures, I definately will. Just don't hold your breath ;)

Dont worry bud,Ill put some pics up for everyone.:thumbsup:

the arms i saw at a hobby shop had the shocks mounting to the back of the arms and not the front. i down load the xx-t cr exploded veiw and see it's like the evader in the front. must have been looking at a xxx-t or something else. maybe i should put down the crack pipe?:p

Ok these are big.Sorry,But I forgot and didnt want to delete and re-upload them.

This first one is kinda cool,It isnt a front arm pic but I would like to know what you guys think of what i did.
click here (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid49/p5db07f21bc39ca8c55fcd6b660dada90/fcb52056.jpg)

These next two pics arm of a XXT front arm swap.One didnt come out as good as I hoped but hey,I was rushing :D

back of arm (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid49/p187a77e0e5f84ba00978066745ed9607/fcb52058.jpg)

front of arm (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid49/pdfeba8714b3ac888d15390822912f184/fcb5205a.jpg)

links didnt work first time...hehehe

Originally posted by ronbeck
the arms i saw at a hobby shop had the shocks mounting to the back of the arms and not the front. i down load the xx-t cr exploded veiw and see it's like the evader in the front. must have been looking at a xxx-t or something else. maybe i should put down the crack pipe?:p

Hey man,If the crack pipe is you thing then-JUST KIIDDING!:D

Yeah they "must" of been XXXT arms.

if i had a pipe it would be something to do at least.:confused:
no work or school to keep me busy. peter

Hey, don't give up on the Evader!!! Those Losi's are kewl if you can afford the cash, which I can't. But it's still 90% driving people. My buddy and I wonder if the Evader is up to it all the time. We're both rookies. Maybe it'll make a difference when we run the next class up. But as we get better driving... we move up the standings. I just posted my first A main second place finish. Fourth fastest time of the night too. I was the only Evader in the A main and started last after a first turn shamble. So my two cents is work more on your driving and worry less about the parts. :)

WOW all I have to do is leave the forum, and look at all the posts. Anyhow FYI I sold my Evader due to the amount of time I spent rebuilding it. IE time I could spend at the track becoming a better driver. I bought my XXXT used for 125.00 and used all the radio gear off the Evader. I am sure I will break parts, but not nearly as often. I drive very aggressivly. The Evader was not up for the constant punishment, my biggest complaint was and still is the weak transmission parts. I agree the Evader is a great starter truck. It got me hooked on racing. I hope to see you all at the track. get out and race it is a blast no matter what you drive. :thumbsup:

ehy i was wondering. how many of you are running the new style slipper and if it helps with the trans break down?

later
matt:wave:

My new Evader ST with a face lift and ready to race more aggressively.

More pics on the other Evader thread.

I just recently obtained an Evader and want to get into racing. I am also from michigan, near East lansing. I was just wondering what tracks around here or near livonia area have times when you can just go and run your truck without racing. Basically I want to understand the handling and get it set up to my driving style. I think brighton has a day that you can come and run, but I was wondering if there was any other place to do it. I appreciate the help. I am looking forward to start racing.

Just wondering what classes you guys are running and what motors your using in the said classes?

Originally posted by Krapolla
I just recently obtained an Evader and want to get into racing. I am also from michigan, near East lansing. I was just wondering what tracks around here or near livonia area have times when you can just go and run your truck without racing. Basically I want to understand the handling and get it set up to my driving style. I think brighton has a day that you can come and run, but I was wondering if there was any other place to do it. I appreciate the help. I am looking forward to start racing.

Why dont you just enter a race and tune it that way?You CANT prepare yourself for driving with the pressure that you get while racing.Why get the set-up right if you dont know how to let the faster car pass,Know how to marshall let alone how much you can learn from others.Im not saying you dont know any of this but doing it is different.
Brighton is more of a "bluegroove" type of track,If you want "REAL" dirt youll have to go to Washtenaw which is about 30 min from Brighton.But for what your wanting Brighton sounds best,I take it you "might" not have time to stay for a long raceday?:wave:

Actually I have no idea what to expect from a race day. What day are Washetna races. Also is there a website that can describe stock and modified racing. I understand the difference I just wondered how much and what kind of upgrading is considered modified. Like I said I am just getting into this and need a lot of direction. I guess I just thought I would need to understand my car better before I raced it, you are right though that a race would give me real understanding on the changes I need to make. Also where can one find parts for team losi that fit the evader. I have been looking for the A-arms the websites I went to sold other smaller pieces. THanks for all the help I am looking forward to racing.

Yesterday was a Washtenaw race.They race again in two weeks on Sat. the 15th..
Stock racing is when you run a 27turn motor
Mod racing is when you use and lower turn wind motor..
Thats the only difference.You cannot use REVERSE on the track @ anytime unless your practicing but then too you might get chewed.
Reason being is if you back up while another car is going past you and he hits you it is still "your" fault for reversing and it is unsportsman like.

TRUST ME!You do not want to start with Mod racing.Way to hard for a beginer.Heck I run Mod 4WD and thats it and I have been racing for 3 years (on dirt).There is some people at the track that just might have some XXT parts to sell ya.Ask for Dan Burnam he "should" have some.

Thanks for the info. My evader came with a 20 turn motor. Does that mean I'll have to get a 27 turn motor? Also do you know how to disable the reverse on the spring ESC that the durtrax comes with also. Once again thanks alot for all the help.

yes you would have to get a 27 turn stock motor.You cannot disable reverse on the stock esc.Just "try" to not use reverse.Which isnt to hard with the stock esc.I guess if you couldnt afford to get a 27turn stock that the 20 "might" be ok for you to learn the truck and get a feel for set-up and fine tune your driving skills.You would be slow compared to guys running 15 turns but atleast your racing and learning.The Photon motor isnt lightning fast but it is a pinch quicker then a stock motor.Ive seen a guy at our track running the photon 20 turn in stock class but he wasnt experienced with driving so noone noticed.You can ask to run it or just run it in stock either way just look at the racing you do as more of a learning experience til you say to yourself "Man I can kick their butts!"and youll see your tuning and driving skills grow,It wont take long for the addiction to set in and youll be doing nothing but reading all kinds of sites for different info.www.teamorion.com is a good one for tuning info as someone on this thread has mentioned many times.www.teamrcv.com also has mountains of info as well.

A little additional info, Stock class generally means a 27 turn 24 degree motor. You'll see some stock motors labeled as "outlaw" motors, and generally they have 36 degree timing. Not ROAR legal and I don't think NORRCA legal either. I'm running an Orion Core stock in my Evader, and it's decent. I put a P2K2 in my son's buggy over Xmas, and I really like it better. Runs cooler and has smoother power transfer. Most of the people I've talked to like the Orion Chrome stock better than the Core, but they're getting hard to find.

Thanks for all the info guys I think I really am getting an understanding on how this stuff works now. I am looking forward to finding the next race and just seeing what I got. One more quick question I'm sure they have all been asked before put I have been going through the previous posts and haven't seen it yet. When you start modifying your gearing is that also considered modified? I will just get the 27 turn and race for now but it is a question I have been thinking about. Once again thanks for all the great information.

No, the modified refers to a motor with less than 27 turns. If you haven't figured out how to do it yet, go back to some earlier posts that will tell you how to calculate gear ratio for the evader. The tranny ratio is 2.88:1, outer ratio will depend on the size of the spur and pinion gears you run. I've been running a 21 tooth pinion in Stock class, but it's a very short tight track and I don't need a lot of top end speed. Check what they're running at your track and adjust for the Evader. I think the Losi XXXT has a 2.43 tranny and the XXT has a 2.41, and it's 2.66 for the AE. Look on the previous posts to be sure, I'm trying to do this all from memory.

Evader tranny is 2.66, Losi xxx and Ae are 2.4 (new ones) I usually gear 2 teeth bigger on the pinion gear than a losi.

Sorry, my memory isn't what it used to be and I didn't have my set up sheets with me. And you're right, I think the older XXTs had a 2.16 tranny. I've also found that running a pinion that's about 2 teeth bigger than the Losis are running is about right with the stock spur gear.

I just wanted to thank everbody for the advice. I went and bought a P2K2 pro today and hopefully can make it to a race this weekend. Once I get running I will figure out the finer points and adjustments. Just looking to have some fun right now.

What pitch are the stock gears? 48? The stock pinion is a 20 correct? I got a Trinity Monster 27 turn coming. Who makes a good set of durable pinion gears? What range of gearing would make a good set? Say 18 to 25 or what? What gearing should I run on my carpet track with the 27 turn? The longest straight is about 75 ft.

Thanks

PS: RC Car Action March 2003 has an article "14 tips to win!" "Make your Duratrax Evader race-ready" Good article.

Mavrick- Thanks for the tip on the article. The stock pinion is a 48 pitch 20 tooth. I switched to Robinson Racing pinions a few months ago and won't ever go back. They make spurs as well. A lot of people like Kimbrough spurs and pinions.

As far as gearing I'd say 18 to 25 is a good range, although it would be rare to use either the 18 or the 25. I've never run on carpet, but I've used a 23T while bashing on pavement. Just make sure your motor isn't getting too hot, take a look at the brushes. If it's cool outside you'll be able to run a little bigger pinion than when it's hot.

Ive read on the monster motor.You dont want to gear it high because it is a RPM motor.Id say if you have the stock spur on it I would try a 17 tooth pinion.Remember when the motor has more rpm then torque you have to gear lower to gain the torque back while letting the rpm of the motor make you fast down the straight which it will do.

Read the RC Car Action article. I've already done everything in there except putting in an aluminum front brace and getting ti shock shafts. I was hoping they'd give more setup tips, etc.

Originally posted by cjtamu
Read the RC Car Action article. I've already done everything in there except putting in an aluminum front brace and getting ti shock shafts. I was hoping they'd give more setup tips, etc.

cj-for the money you cant beat jep's braces.He is AWESOME to deal with.
I might get the uni-shock shafts next myself.

That's exactly why I didn't get the aluminum bulkhead. Going to get Jep's brace instead. And what I said about the shocks wasn't quite true. I am running ti shafts with Teflon pistons, they just happen to be Losi shocks that I bought on Evilbay.

Here's a tip. Never let your 15 year old daughter (who's never gone around anything she could go through in her life) race your Evader, in her 1st race, on a cold night on a tough track. It was hysterical. She came flying down the short straight to the table top, never hit the brakes and drove the right front head on into the pipe. Broke shock tower, shock end, front bumper and bulkhead. Completely shattered the bulkhead and I didn't have a spare. I just placed an order for the Jep combo pack. Tower wants $38 freaking dollars for the aluminum bulkhead, can you believe it?

On a sad note, the track is closing in 2 weeks. The owner is retiring and doesn't want to fool with it in his retirement. He'll take 10K for the equipment etc. and leave it where it is. He's covering the lease payments just on the Sat races alone. Cool place if anybody wants a track in the Houston area. It's hosted both ROAR and NORRCA nationals, as recently as last year, and everything is top notch. I talked to my wife about it last night, but I just don't have the time.

Originally posted by bluelightracer
WOW all I have to do is leave the forum, and look at all the posts. Anyhow FYI I sold my Evader due to the amount of time I spent rebuilding it. IE time I could spend at the track becoming a better driver. I bought my XXXT used for 125.00 and used all the radio gear off the Evader. I am sure I will break parts, but not nearly as often. I drive very aggressivly. The Evader was not up for the constant punishment, my biggest complaint was and still is the weak transmission parts. I agree the Evader is a great starter truck. It got me hooked on racing. I hope to see you all at the track. get out and race it is a blast no matter what you drive. :thumbsup: Bluelight you should have gotten a T3 instead of the losi...The T3 is much more durable.:wave:

Originally posted by indyboy
Bluelight you should have gotten a T3 instead of the losi...The T3 is much more durable.:

He can always trade me for my T3 :D ;) :lol:

hey i was wondering do losi shock pistons fit in the evader shocks?

later
matt

Losi, Associated and RPM pistons all fit. I am running the RPM pistons right now with good results. Losi springs fit as well.

Here is what I am running:
Front-
Losi Orange springs
RPM white pistons
35wt Oil

Rear-
Losi Yellow springs
RPM white pistons
30wt oil

My wife asked me what I wanted for my birthday last night and she referred to LEDs but I was thinking a stock motor and ESC setup.

I'm thinking P2K2 or Chameleon Pro or are these even stock motors? A stock motor is 27 turn right? With 26 degrees of timing?

I would prefer an ESC with reverse lockout as opposed to a non-reversable one but I don't even know where to start.Or should I stick with the stock ESC and not use reverse? Can this be done with the throttle trim? Thanks for any help in advance.

i would look for a new esc. while you are looking at the specs get one that will run a hotter motor then you wish to use now. nothing like dropping $100 on a esc then fin out you want to go a few turns lower but your esc falls alittle shy of that mark. i would consider the rooster or super rooster. i have a rooster like it much more then the stock esc(has brake delay and disable). and the p2k2 is a "stock" motor 27 turns 24 degree advanced timing with locked endbell. good luck and happy early b-day.

peter:)

Check out the new Duratrax racing ESC's. Look on Tower's site for specs, etc. There are 2 models that will handle down to 8 turn motors (you'll never run anything hotter than that), and I'm almost positive one of them has reverse with a lockout feature. From what I've heard people are liking them, and they're like $60 to $80. Plus, the on-resistance is very low, so more speed, better runtime. I put a P2K2 in my son's buggy. I should have put it in the Evader. That's a great motor.