Originally posted by Dan the Man
Pretty cool. On cars that have a rear brace it's usually on the back, though.
I take it you dont have a XXXKE?

Guver- Check the car handling FAQ on the Team Orion website.

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
I take it you dont have a XXXKE?
You're right. I sit corrected.

well i almost have the set-up sheet done, one more pic. to clean up. i would like to know if anyone uses either of the settings and if i should included them. the extra holes in the steering arm to shorteen the steering arm. and the steering ackerman setting on the servo saver? i will check back tonight or tomarrow night. i should have this thing ready by sunday unless something bad happens. if some one could help me with the posting it should be up sunday night.

later
matt

Originally posted by Dan the Man
You're right. I sit corrected.


LOL sit LOL....Its cool man.:thumbsup:

thanks cj thats what i wanted. i just have to take the time to read it all and play with settings now

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
LOL sit LOL....Its cool man.:thumbsup:
Yeah... the only Losi I own is a XX4WE, the rear brace is on the back of the pins. The drivetrain is in the way of putting it on the front. On my T3 and B3 there's no brace on that end. The steel front brace on those cars is a lot better than the plastic or aluminum ones on the Losis imo...

Yeah, there's a ton of info on the Orion website. I just start with a section, and once I feel comfortable with that I move onto the next. They told me they'd have all the FAQ's updated sometime this month. The motor and battery FAQ's are really excellent. They also have a message board that you can get some good info off of.

Originally posted by Dan the Man
Yeah... the only Losi I own is a XX4WE, the rear brace is on the back of the pins. The drivetrain is in the way of putting it on the front. On my T3 and B3 there's no brace on that end. The steel front brace on those cars is a lot better than the plastic or aluminum ones on the Losis imo...

I have a XX4 myself,I think that the Losi front brace works good on "Losi" XXT's,But not the Evader with its lack of plastic in its design.I think a major contributor to the Evaders front bulkhead being pooh is they didnt (for some reason which I cant even understand why they made it this way) doesnt have as much material as a XXT bulkhead.I have Jep's brace on there and I am loving it...

DIFF............
I cannot believe that my thrust bearing wore out in one raceday???I had been coached by a local who is the "diff guy" and followed his steps to the T.It may be because I forgot to put in the foam in the thrust side of the diff (what a dummy huh :confused: )But either way it is rebuilt (aside from the diff rings which are just fine) and is satisfactory.....
Time to go read at Orion on some suspension tuning I forgot some things regaurding the tie-rod placments as well.:D

i am basicaly done with the set up sheet, still waiting for input on those two things.
i made the set up sheet in micrsoft word and it is a doc. file, did not even dawn on me you guys may not be running it, also just looked at the valide file extensions and do not see doc. listed.
i will look back sunday night to see if any one wanted those included. i personaly do not think i would use them but thought i would ask. any way it will be up late sunday if it will let me post it. also if needed i can remake the set up sheet in another program, but as of now i only have an adobe reader and do not if i can get the wrighter in free ware so i can put it in a pdf file. ow well let me know on those two items and i will try it......

later
matt

What do y'all use to measure front and rear camber? I've seen gauges for 1/12 on-road cars, but never for off-road. Will these work?

hey, thought i would let very one know. it would not let me post the set-up sheet, but i just sent it to hank to put up on teamrcv, i will let you know when it's up.

cjtamu

rpm makes a nice camber gauge, i use it but i does not work on larger trucks(t-maxx or larger). or you can use a pop can to get it to 0 deg. camber.

later
mames

Originally posted by cjtamu
What do y'all use to measure front and rear camber? I've seen gauges for 1/12 on-road cars, but never for off-road. Will these work?
Here ya GO (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV13&P=7)

Thanks.

Thats the one i use also, but I like the looks of the one Atlas makes better.

Anybody find that thread on body roll? I really think it would help our trucks corner. If you watch a TMaxx on the course, the only way they can get around quick is by have a soft working suspension that allows a ton of body roll. Are there softer springs than the pinks?

Originally posted by fastvader3
Anybody find that thread on body roll? I really think it would help our trucks corner. If you watch a TMaxx on the course, the only way they can get around quick is by have a soft working suspension that allows a ton of body roll. Are there softer springs than the pinks? Your truck doesnt body roll?
I have reds up front with 25wt and yellows out back with 27.5wt.I have a ton of body roll...Problem that body roll has is while turning with this truck it tends to ride on the sidewall of the tire.(in back) The turnbuckle mounting positions are all in a bad spot IMHO.I can find one that is "good enough" for my track yet.Acctually stock location works best for me?

Originally posted by fastvader3
Anybody find that thread on body roll? I really think it would help our trucks corner. If you watch a TMaxx on the course, the only way they can get around quick is by have a soft working suspension that allows a ton of body roll. Are there softer springs than the pinks? Yes there is softer then Pink (you refering to losi right) grey is the softest.I think I have every set possible..But grey wont hold a evader up though LOL.

Fastvader- There's a great section on body roll on the Orion website also. Look under the car suspension and handling FAQ. I'm playing around with the camber on mine (if I can ever get back to the track) to see if I can get more traction in the rear. I'm running pink springs in back with 30 wt oil and Losi shocks and I get plenty of roll. I haven't tried it yet, but I feel almost positive you could replace the shock tower with a XXT tower if you want more mounting positions. Have you tried it yet 2nd?

cjtamu~I have a XXT Rear shock tower yes.The lower mounting holes are a lil off but a dremel makes it easy.Now I dont know the reason for this,But IMHO having left the setup exactly the same I had mounted the shocks in the same location from the DCX tower and it seems softer to me.Im sure it has to do with geometry but I still was like woah?
Ive found this truck likes a light front end set up.I also found the diff is only going to get so smooth and will have some notchyness to it.That makes the rear want to swing in some cases as well.For those who havent done it yet nor thought of it,Try balancing your wheels it does wonders..I have my battery set in the forward most position and it feels best for my driving style.Our track is mighty ruff and slippery near the end of the day so I have to adjust through the day and I try different things all the time.Another thing that will help in rear traction is putting the rear hub carriers all the way forward that like adjustment can solve rear bite and most over look it.

I have 2 questions
1=Does anyone know if losi shock pistons work in the DCX shocks???
2=How many of you run with more then 0 degree camber in front???

:thumbsup:

1 degree

Anybody been able to adjust the geometry of the steering such that both wheels have the same angle of turn when maxed out in one direction or the other? I notice that when turning in one direction that the inside wheel has way more degree of entry than the outside wheel. This is a serious offense in the art of turning sharply. Any ideas??

I'm not an expert, but all trucks, cars, ect. (fullsize or scale) do that because the inside wheel cuts a smaller circle. I think it is called ackerman, not really sur how to measure or express it though.

That's also why we have differentials from right to left and from front to rear. cuz each wheel goes a different speed. cmiiw

Sure, I think I know what you're saying. The geometry or simply the design of the suspension is preventing the wheel from turning properly. Gotta be a way to get around that. I wouldn't be so concerned about gaining body roll to help turn if I could just get the front wheels to track in sync. Brainstorming time....

No, I'm saying it is supposed to do that, It is turning properly.

Okay, fine. Cool. But I'd like to change it.... :)

are you sure it's not the tire changing shape with a load on it?
the inside tire will tuck in turns, while the outside tire tucks out.
try firmer foams. read alot of revues that to race with the stock wheels go stiffer withe foams.:)
peter

Originally posted by fastvader3
Sure, I think I know what you're saying. The geometry or simply the design of the suspension is preventing the wheel from turning properly. Gotta be a way to get around that. I wouldn't be so concerned about gaining body roll to help turn if I could just get the front wheels to track in sync. Brainstorming time....
Yes it is supposed to do that.But I know what your wanting.Your going to have to put some Losi XXT front spindles on.I noticed that I had more travel in mine when I put them on....


JEPS REAR BRACE AND FRONT BUMPER!!!!!

All I can say is WOW!!!!

The fit of these parts are unbelieveable.They fit like a glove and man that front bumper?It will never be replaced again what solid pieces....They just came about a hour ago and you know I already put them on :D

JEP TY for making such a great product!:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Hey, thanks for the tip... but how exactly are those XXT spindles different from the Evader spindles? Are they longer or something.

Originally posted by fastvader3
Hey, thanks for the tip... but how exactly are those XXT spindles different from the Evader spindles? Are they longer or something. The part where the tierod mounts is shaped different.It isnt a HUGE gain but even a tiny bit makes a difference.;)

School Time

Is this the information you are looking for?

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33678

Okay... who read the "school" thread and what did you learn from it? I mean what does it mean for OUR trucks. Where would this information suggest locating our ball studs and spring locations?? In simplified form of course :)

I was supposed to be making some Aluminum idler gears and have been dragging my feet. I posted on the Evader owners thread if your intrested.

I regret to inform all of you that I am now one of the opposition. I have grown tired of rebuliding the 6 million dollar truck, and have purchased an used XXXT MFE. I shook it out last weekend at a race and ended up in the b main with zero set up time, zero breakage. I will check in from time to time, but alas this "sniff" is farewell. Keep racing and I'll see you at the track. Chris

Bluelight you'll love that xxx, my son has a MF it's so smooth. I get stuck with the Evader so that's my excuse. The Evader is still a excellent beginner truck and can be competitive but there is quite a noticeable difference.

I'm with 22racer, it is a good truck to start with. I have learned so much with the Evader, I feel eventually I will go to the newer design of the XXXT. I have gone from a backyard basher, to someone who is truly interested in racing now. If I bought a 120 dollar Toys R Us R/C car I would not have progressed this far. So for a few more dollars I got good deal (no matter how many times I have replaced everything on the car :D )
Just think of how many people have gotten into RC because of Duratrax. They do a service to the RC community. Just read these threads. But you are not alone BlueLightRacer, it's the parts, parts, parts! How many threads I have read about people trying to practically convert their cars into XXT CRs. By the time you are done you could have bought a XXXT Sport RTR, plus a new motor and other goodies. Trust me, I have done the math, so have others out there.
So the moral of the story is go out and have fun, be proud of your car, how well you keep it, and how much you have learned.

A great learning experience is a great learning experience,
John

Just wanted to say "Well Said John"

i sold my evader two days ago for similar reasons. needed a truck that could handle more bumps and bruises while still going the speeds i wanted to drive. the evader was quick, and agile, but i grew tired of replaceing parts.

Maybe thats Duratrax expectation behind the Evader... build a truck that 'can' compete but has considerable breakage to teach beginners how to work on there car. dunno.. pretty far fetched but makes ya think dont'it?

no hard feelings towards the evader.. i wish you guys well who are still racing it. its still a beautiful thing to watch an evader beat up on Losi's or TA's.

later,
Q

I ONLY got this thing origianlly because me and the old lady just had a kid when I bought it.If I wasnt keeping a level head trying to watch the money I would have got a MF myself.I sold my Evader once,Then bought it back.Why?I like the truck.Mine is very very smooth.I cant even hear mine land from a jump or when it is racing past me on the straight.I think one good point to be made is when a part breaks replace it with a XXT part.One time deal.Right now my truck is about 25% Losi.When I am done it wont be more then 40% Losi.

I want to make this truck a good truck and not close this chapter in racing bummed with it like many do.They get mad that parts break so much which I admit thats why I sold mine in the first place.Then I realized I already forked out a few bucks in it might as well go all the way.I just wish they would make a idler and the trannny case out of the same material as the "new" chassis.I also have some diff issues to sort out and I think the XXT trans will fix it for good..

I know I definately could of bought a MF by now for sure.BUT I would of still "LOST" money on my Evader.I cant sell it for every penny I put into it.Which makes sense,But I would want to get my moneys worth before chucking it.

Was you experience with the truck "that" bad guys?
You must not of bought Jeps braces....:lol: :lol:

hey 2nd..

no my experience wasnt 'that bad'. i'd still advocate the evader to anyone. just not for me is all. i went from 1 evader to 3 Stampedes. :thumbsup:

and one of my pedes is setup like an ST and i'm able to compete with most of the Losi's, Evaders, and TA's at my track:eek:. i wouldnt have understood as much of the setup as i do now if it werent for playing around with the Evader.


just driver preference ya know?

No worries 2nd gear. I am not getting rid of my Evader. Love it, going to race it. Just meant that this car is a prelude to things to come with me. Maybe in a year I'll buy another car? Who knows maybe Duratrax will have an Evader ST2 by then ;)

John

Well with sayign what ya guys said.Im glad you didnt give up on it and just toss in the towel.It is a good truck,Just keep the faith.

Evader St2 LOL I see it now a bunch of swapping from the XXXT!ROTFLMBO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:hat:

2nd are you going to put a tranny in that you have laying around or buy new parts and put one together? I thought about putting in a stealth before I found my fix, but they want big bucks for it. I would be willing to sell my Evader, has a one of a kind aluminum rear chassis plate(not much heavier than stock) has an aluminum idler and asc. diff gear, new style chassis, hollow titanium front spindles, titanium hinge pins in front, of course Losi arms.

Sorry 22, not intrested in having another one.

But,I sure enjoy driving the Evader. It's my go fast car.

To try and race this truck is a lot of work and money.

Those of you that can "fix" the weak links are good at it and finding the answers can be fun, not everyone can do that.

I've driven my truck 5 months and have not had major problems. I do not race hard with it, bash lightly, and do all the regular maintenance to keep it running in top shape. It's all fun. It's a great learning truck.

I think the Evader has proven itself as a good starter truck.

EVST 2, maybe that will be a race truck.:rolleyes:

A guy @ my track has a TON of XXT parts.It will cost me little to give this a try.This wont bother me much because I can put it up on ebay and someone will bite to have a spare lying around.As for buying yours?My wife would KILL ME!!!
It definatly sounds like you have been doing alot of what Ive been doing..Which I take my hat off for.Alot of people (who can;))dont try to do this sort of thing.But I have been doign this for years and know what parts to look for<I also have a eye for that kinda thing as well.Funny thing is I (thanks inpart to Jep :thumbsup: )
the durability solved for the most part.The only thing left for me to get that "I" feel is needed is some RPM ballcups.This is aside from making the tranny better and I think you (22racer) have the tranny issues solved.I just happen to have a stealth laying here maybe thats the ticket?Ill be wrenchin as soon as I hit Submit Reply..:devil:

hey thought i would drop a line and update all you on the set up sheet. i have emailed it to hank at rcv, the team evader web site, and jep r/c to have it posted. have not heard from any of them as fo now. hope they get it up soon. if any one needs it drop me a line and i will email it to you. just remeber it's a doc file.

later
matt

I CAN put the Associated tranny in but I would have to modify the stock axles to fit into the Assoc. outdrives.Idont really want to do that.So Im relying on a local guy who has a ton of XXT parts so maybe he might have a xxt tranny laying around.I know why not get a XXT,It still has a evader chassis so it "is" a evadet still and the bell crank set up.Eh who knows.:lol:

i was looking up partsd on tower and if i remember right the out drives are shorter then the evader's. but post if you get it working.
peter:)

Originally posted by ronbeck
the out drives are shorter then the evader's. peter:)

Thats not the issue,It is the part of the axle that goes into the outdrive thats too big.I did articulation measurements as well.I may have a very cool guy at our track make me some if the XXT parts dont pan out.You guys wont believe how good it fits.Yeah it isnt a simple bolt on but nothing is most of the time regaurding stadium trucks when swapping most part inbetween manufacturers...

I wonder why noone comments on using the XXT rear wheels?They fit just fine....

lots run the losi wheels like me. front and back. some people said they had probs with the dtx spacer in the front wheels, and replaced them with the losi spacer to fix that problehm. :)

Yes, Losi rims work great....
A question:
I am always breaking my front arms on the Evader, sometimes the shock tower with it. I am just curious if this is a large problem with you all. I say this cause everyone talks about the bulkhead and other parts, which I haven't even broken yet. I have been pondering putting the XXT front arms on with a XXT shock tower, probably graphite. I know the front arms can be done and they are stronger, and I assume the front shock tower can be made to work. Have any of you tried the shock tower?

John

P.S.
I know this is a racing forum....but it's winter :D