I didn't call them... I thought maybe someone could tell us more before I called...

The caption reads something like... ' a customers RC_dyno' it sounds like someone custom made it, and for all I know it may not even be functional. Since I'm not really in the market for a dyno... I wasn't really in too big a hurry to spend any time investigating it... I guess I'm just plain lazy in this matter...

It really does look cool...

FYI...

EPIC Bin2 'outlaw stock'...

Mine ran like crap out of the box. I did manage to get it running for 4 cell voltages, and I can see where this motor deffintely has the potential to be very fast if geared right.

So far I haven't been able to get mine to look good at 6 cell voltages, but I haven't really tried too hard just yet...

I have been told by a very reliable friend of mine that racers at the champs were able to get them to run well even at 6 cell voltages... In fact from what I've been told, at least one guy had one that was puttin out 135 watts peak on a Robitronic dyno at the 7.5 volt setting... The best motor I've ever seen on my Robi at that setting was about 134 watts... a typical good motor is 128 or better...

Where this and other high RPM stock motors really shine however is at the high end... My early data tells me this thing really puts out near it's max RPM... My early impression was not so good for this motor, but I guess it takes a little time to figure new things out... but from what I'm seeing, and from reports I've heard... this motor should be faster then a Monster...

On the ohter hand... I'm not sure these high RPM beasts are very good for the novice... my experiance is that the more RPM a motor has, the pickier it is about everything... from gearing to spring choice.... Probably see alot of these babys go up in smoke... by either people pushing them a bit too hard, or by people who don't know what they are doing...

I didn't call them... I thought maybe someone could tell us more before I called...

The caption reads something like... ' a customers RC_dyno' it sounds like someone custom made it, and for all I know it may not even be functional. Since I'm not really in the market for a dyno... I wasn't really in too big a hurry to spend any time investigating it... I guess I'm just plain lazy in this matter...

It really does look cool...

Hmm,looks very interesting.I couldn't find out anything about it on the website though.Looks like a true dyno though.

A while back in this thread we talked about trimming the trailing edge of a brush. I think I might have been confuesed as to which edge that is! So which edge is the trailing edges so I can make sure I've got this right.
Thanks
SB

See if this answers your question about the trailing edge...

http://www.wiltse.net/pdf/tet.pdf

Dyno and company you guys are the greatest!

That is exactly what I needed. I have been playing with trimming the edge of the brush for about a month. My motors have been improving but a couple of times some of them have been running a little hot, which is not normal for me. I thought maybe in my head I got the wrong edge filed. After seeing your drawing this is not the case. Thanks very much for the file! About the same time I started to play with trimming I also replaced the Schottky diodes on my motors for the Novak in line version. The thing of it is I don’t have a Novak ESC. I have an LRP 7.1 and LRP quantum sport, the package says it will work on any ESC. I don’t have any problems with hot motors with the quantum just the 7.1. So now I am thinking either I got a bad inline part or the 7.1 does not like this setup. Has anybody here run this inline setup with an LRP 7.1? If so any problems.

Thanks
SB

With a real acquisition package just around the corner from Eagle Tree, what does everyone think the best way is to compare Dyno data to track data? I've been playing around with some spreadsheets and was wondering what others would do.

The main thing that I'm thinking about is how do we use the on track data to calculate what the correct gear is for that track and motor based on dyno data?

First for SpeedBump... I personaly never use a Schottky... but I race oval, and my understanding is that the Schottky mostly comes into play under braking... I tell you that bit of info, mainly because what I'm going to tell you next comes with virtualy no experaince with a Schottky diode on a RC motor...

I see no reason why a Shottky diode would casuse a motor to run hotter...

Narrowing a brush should make a motor run cooler in almost all cases that I can think of... The more you trim off, the cooler the motor should run.. In ohter words I don't think your triming the brushes are the cause for your motor to heat up...

I'm not sure what else to tell you at this point... perhaps somoene else has something for you...

As for Fred's question/comment...

Well... I wish I had me one of them data acquisition systems, maybe I'd have more of a opion... Having said that... I still have a comment... :)

Clearly the way you use the info is going to depend on the dyno you use... My Robitronic is going to give alot differnt info then will a TurboDyno... so it seems I'm almost just going to have to wait and see, use trial and error to figure it out.

In the mean time... I'll have to think a bit more about this... I do like your question alot...

I just can't wait to get me one...

I have a Quantum Competition... I quit using the Schotty thinggies completely.

I know the instructions say to put them on the motors, but I had radio glitching with one of them and that did it for me. There are 19-turn mod guys at our track that run that speedo too and also do not use the diodes.

Just so everyone can get an idea of what the data would look like from the logger, I'm going to attach some data from the old logger that is currently available. I didn't have the amp data at this time but it runs from 35 amps off each corner down to 15 amps at the end of the straight. You have voltage and RPM so you can figure the current from the dyno.

Sheet one is a graph of one lap (4 minutes in), sheet two is the raw data and some calculated data in red, and the final sheet is a crude sketch of the layout. Each turn is marked on the graph.

That looks great.
Better then the cockpit look posted earlier?! IMO

Data in graphs, data in tables, summary and a track explination!
Only one important quastion to this.
Will there be a compare(baseline-new test) function in it.
to test run 1 and 2.
By putting the graphs upon another!?
Is a deffeinative MUST have.


I want the DAQ ASAP...Full options!

Also V at battery and at motor ould be interesting. as well as temp battery, temp motor..

But aren't we getteing off topic on this thread.
Oops

Thanks Dyno!
I really wasn’t implying that the Shottky diode it self was causing me to run hot just the way I had it installed. As for the trimmed brushes I thought maybe I had the leading and trailing edge mixed up and was actually trimming the leading edge by mistake and thought maybe that would make it run hot. The file you posted confirmed that I had it right Thanks. I think I have found my problem though. I have a Losi XXXT and have been playing with different diff setups mainly the diff balls. I have been using all grade 3 silicon nitride balls (Ceramic Balls) which really make a difference. They last much longer and are much smoother. Anyway last night to prep for this weekends race I did a rebuild and took a real close look at all the diff parts and discovered that the thrust bolt was slightly warped. I replace the bolt and have no more problems. My guess is that was causing the diff not to work properly and maybe with to much drag. I really wasn’t running to hot just hotter than normal. I usually run around 150-160 and had jumped to mid 180 and could not figure out why.
Thanks for all your help!
SB

PizzaDude, The new DAQ will only check voltage at the battery and amp draw. But then at full throttle the battery and motor voltage should be the same. It can check temp. in 2 places. Anyways, there is a thread on the new unit at http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=628998 Might be best to take this discussion there not to clog up this thread.

Just wanted to bring this thread back up for more discussion