View Full Version : NMRCC 2011 Gaylord, MI RC Racing and FUN!



tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 08:29 PM
Well guys, the T-Monster is running like a raped ape(over 18 years old) ran three tanks through it in the front yard tonight, and I've got to say, this little sucker is running better than it ever has. This O.S.TM21 was barely broke in when I parked it and she started to breath a little tonight and she's fast. If I decide to race her this year, you Monster truck guys had better watch out, it may not be as fast as those E-revo's and HPI's but she will get around the track pretty fast........

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 08:34 PM
you wont race it anyways....LOL

tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 08:41 PM
you wont race it anyways....LOL
Your probably right, but its fun to dream of racing a-mains with the Monster truck again.

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 08:43 PM
Your probably right, but its fun to dream of racing a-mains with the Monster truck again.

we only have one heat of monster trucks, so you should be in the A-main forsure....LMAO

jbod
04-14-2011, 09:16 PM
Inferno, the break down of the gx motors on go engine site only shows two shims a .2mm and a .3mm. When I took out the break in shim out I only had two copper shims left. I assumed they were the .2mm and the .3mm. I put both back in. Ran it tonight ran good after a little tuneing. A little hard to start compared to the hpi but runs good after you get it started. Maybe I should replace the glow plug to see if that helps. Bring that spare to the first race with you. Man the D8 handles like a dream.

jbod
04-14-2011, 09:17 PM
Tip, you have to many cars for a guy that only runs two classes. But would love to bash monster truck with you.

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 09:20 PM
Inferno, the break down of the gx motors on go engine site only shows two shims a .2mm and a .3mm. When I took out the break in shim out I only had two copper shims left. I assumed they were the .2mm and the .3mm. I put both back in. Ran it tonight ran good after a little tuneing. A little hard to start compared to the hpi but runs good after you get it started. Maybe I should replace the glow plug to see if that helps. Bring that spare to the first race with you. Man the D8 handles like a dream.

i have the aluminum shim and 1 cooper (.1mm) shim in mine now, runs awsome!!!! havent changed the plug yet! ill bet you have your high speed needle in to far! (hard to start) should be flush the turned in 3 hours.

jbod
04-14-2011, 09:33 PM
Tried that setting on the high jet seemed to start better but now when you punch the throttle from idle it sputters then goes. I have the low needle set a 1 1/2 in from flush. Maybe tomorrow I will get a better tune.

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 09:39 PM
Tried that setting on the high jet seemed to start better but now when you punch the throttle from idle it sputters then goes. I have the low needle set a 1 1/2 in from flush. Maybe tomorrow I will get a better tune.

if it sputters giving it throttle it is low speed needle, set back to flush and do the 7 second test by pinching fuel line off 1cm from fuel inlet. if it takes longer than 7 seconds turn in low speed needle 1 hour at a time untill you reach 7 seconds. engine should only rev up slightly then die

jbod
04-14-2011, 09:40 PM
Will try tomorrow, thanks.

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 09:42 PM
Will try tomorrow, thanks.

okeydokey:)

Revo-lution
04-14-2011, 10:12 PM
Uh oh, did you say monster truck? Cant wait to wind up the e-revo! And there is another e-revo thats going to be joining us this year, JJ will have his on Friday!

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 10:16 PM
Uh oh, did you say monster truck? Cant wait to wind up the e-revo! And there is another e-revo thats going to be joining us this year, JJ will have his on Friday!

i saw he was looking for truggy tires. i thought he got a truggy. either way i hope he can make a few races this year!!! i kinda like JJ....LOL

Revo-lution
04-14-2011, 10:17 PM
Tipp, we will let you run it with us, but you have to put these on it.
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/56e0e278.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/285b7425.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/5e73d29d.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/2d19bcdf.jpg

tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 10:21 PM
Nice, they might be a little big for the short little T-Maxx. Might look cool though......LOL!

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 10:22 PM
Tipp, we will let you run it with us, but you have to put these on it.
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/56e0e278.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/285b7425.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/5e73d29d.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/orourkebrad546/2d19bcdf.jpg

those wont do good on our track, i had some 2 times that size on the cen monster truck.

Revo-lution
04-14-2011, 10:26 PM
They are pretty sick! Last winter, I ran them on my nitro revo and it went across my front yard with it, there was about three foot of snow and those tires just ripped acrossed it!

tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 10:34 PM
I've got some secret weapon's tires for the Monster truck, aggressive enough to tear the face off an angry Gorilla...........just saying!

tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 10:39 PM
Maybe I should be concentrating on breaking in that new os 25xz motor, but I seem more excited about the old T-maxx. WTS is that all about any ways.......??????????

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 10:43 PM
Maybe I should be concentrating on breaking in that new os 25xz motor, but I seem more excited about the old T-maxx. WTS is that all about any ways.......??????????

better do that upgrade after break-in:)

tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 10:49 PM
Don't be an o.s. hater. My break in is a lot easier than that complicated GO motor crap, I've got a head ache just reading how to do the break in on one of those GO's. Shim now, take out shim, add another shim, replace bronze .0001 with brass.002 for 10 tanks then take away .03 and add .0021 for another 3 tanks, then tear down and replace conrod, piston and sleeve then repeat 3 times. Then, go buy a O.S. motor, it's faster, easier to break in and lasts much longer...................

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 10:59 PM
Don't be an o.s. hater. My break in is a lot easier than that complicated GO motor crap, I've got a head ache just reading how to do the break in on one of those GO's. Shim now, take out shim, add another shim, replace bronze .0001 with brass.002 for 10 tanks then take away .03 and add .0021 for another 3 tanks, then tear down and replace conrod, piston and sleeve then repeat 3 times. Then, go buy a O.S. motor, it's faster, easier to break in and lasts much longer...................

i think you read it wrong....LOL, I can show you over 60,000 posts that say a OS evgine will only last 3 gallons before needing 40.00 rod, 100.00 crank (maybe) and new 21j carb before you even run a gallon through it. (thats the update) the new carb are junk! im not a OS hater, i have a OS speed by accident...LMAO, also there is no bronze or brass shims, only cooper and aluminum....LOL

tipperjackson
04-14-2011, 11:06 PM
It's obviouse that you have no idea what your talking about, I think you need to research outside of the go engine forums. As per your advise it sounds like you have to replace your conrod after break in. There must be a reason why GO sends all those extra parts with the brand new engine. I'm sure it's not because they manufactured too many and did'nt know what to do with them all.......LOL!

Mike D.
04-14-2011, 11:16 PM
It's obviouse that you have no idea what your talking about, I think you need to research outside of the go engine forums. As per your advise it sounds like you have to replace your conrod after break in. There must be a reason why GO sends all those extra parts with the brand new engine. I'm sure it's not because they manufactured too many and did'nt know what to do with them all.......LOL!

no, its because EVERY engine company reccomends changing conrod after breakin and GO supplies one instead of making you pay 40.00 so there is not warranty issues, if that OS blows a conrod OS will tell you it your own fault because you dint spend the extra 40 bones on a conrod as reccomended after break-in, pretty much sum's it up. i have OS also, but when it breaks, it will go in the garbage because parts are as much as a new motor,(atleast for me):)

jbod
04-14-2011, 11:23 PM
Revo-lution, you should sell me them tires for the twin-zilla. I will give you $10.

JJohnston
04-15-2011, 06:40 AM
i saw he was looking for truggy tires. i thought he got a truggy. either way i hope he can make a few races this year!!! i kinda like JJ....LOL

I am still planning on making NMRCC my primary place to race. I am missing that loose dirt big time :thumbsup:
I did do a minor sell off in hopes to explore more ends of the hobby. I am looking at a couple toys to play with locally. Crawlers/Boats etc..
Heck I have two boats I bought last year and never used.
Kids have all there SC Trucks, and I have a couple RC's to bring up :thumbsup:
Oh and like Mr. Revo mentioned he talked me into a ordering this E-Revo Brushless edition.
Mr. UPS is bringing it today
Monster Truck Class for me for sure.

Opening Day I will be there!!
Shoot if is doesn't snow Sunday who wants to go practice ? LOL

Revo-lution
04-15-2011, 07:54 AM
If the weather isn't be retarded, and the battle-axe isn't in labor, I'll be there to practice Sunday! Well maybe just if the weather holds out! Lol!

GNS Racing
04-15-2011, 08:50 AM
weather is perfect here 78 and sunny yesterday. 68 and a little hazy right now. but that could have been from the margritas last night. having coffie down by the lake in a few minutes.


sorry, had to rub it in a little.

you guys have fun this summer, im staying here! lol, ( i wish)

caint, i would miss racin with you alll this summer.

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 09:23 AM
glad ya got good weather down there!! have fun!

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 02:10 PM
found a neat app for the droid, it a nitro runtime calculator.

https://market.android.com/details?id=com.jk.NitroRuntimeCalculator&feature=search_result

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 03:26 PM
this is pretty cool to, tells you how to mix shock oils to get the weight you want

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/oil_mixer.html

jbod
04-15-2011, 05:50 PM
Anybody know how many amps the mmp is good for? And if you can program the amp load on them. Just picked up two 7.4 volt 8000 miliamp batts, for the savage flux but seems to hit the over temp on esc. Now the fan was not coming on but us now. Just don't want to fry something.

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 05:56 PM
6S (25.2 volts) max input voltage

Switching BEC powers your radio and servo all the way up to the 6S max input. Users may select the output for any voltage between 5V and 7V.

jbod
04-15-2011, 06:07 PM
Inferno, where did you find that info? Looking for the amp rating.
8x35=280 amps. So I need to make sure it can handle 280 amps. Possibly.

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 06:08 PM
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/mamba_max_pro.html

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 06:13 PM
Inferno, where did you find that info? Looking for the amp rating.
8x35=280 amps. So I need to make sure it can handle 280 amps. Possibly.

amp rating depends on motor. with a 2650kv the MMP bursts at 120amps i think....LOL

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 06:16 PM
may want to check here also.... http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/280957-mamba-max-pro.html

jbod
04-15-2011, 06:37 PM
I believe the max amp output of the new batteries is 280 amp. Need to find out if the esc can handle that.

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 06:40 PM
I believe the max amp output of the new batteries is 280 amp. Need to find out if the esc can handle that.

yes the ESC can handle that, it can handle up to 6S LIPO, you only have 14.8volts, a 6S is 25.2 volts

jbod
04-15-2011, 06:53 PM
Amps are different from volts. But I think I found the answer on rctech. Thanks

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 06:56 PM
Amps are different from volts. But I think I found the answer on rctech. Thanks

i know, but why would would it work with a 6S (25.2 volts) and not 4S ,14.8 volts? depends what motor you have is all

macdude
04-15-2011, 09:01 PM
Anybody know how many amps the mmp is good for? And if you can program the amp load on them. Just picked up two 7.4 volt 8000 miliamp batts, for the savage flux but seems to hit the over temp on esc. Now the fan was not coming on but us now. Just don't want to fry something.

If the ESC is not shutting down then you are fine. The fan will come on when the controller gets over 130* i believe. I have had my fan go bad on my 1/8 buggy and I never fried anything. Running for 30 min it might get close to thermal shut down, really the ESC is a tank. If you are concerned about temp get an aftermarket fan or wire the stock fan directly to the batteries. So it runs all the time then the thing will never get hot.

jbod
04-15-2011, 09:34 PM
I hit the thermal shut down twice earlier, but the fan was not working is now so I check it out tomorrow.
Inferno, it's not the volts that made me question the batts, it was the amps. Milliamp hours divited by 1000 times c rating = amps, but only at wide open throttle. Was just checking cause I hit the thermal shutdown, but the fan was not working. Fixed that so I will check it out tomorrow.

Mike D.
04-15-2011, 09:41 PM
I hit the thermal shut down twice earlier, but the fan was not working is now so I check it out tomorrow.
Inferno, it's not the volts that made me question the batts, it was the amps. Milliamp hours divited by 1000 times c rating = amps, but only at wide open throttle. Was just checking cause I hit the thermal shutdown, but the fan was not working. Fixed that so I will check it out tomorrow.

ahh, i was asking to, because i really dint know, the 3 mmp's i had took a crap and randy has 2 on his bench that dont work. so not real good experiance with the mmp.

jbod
04-15-2011, 10:59 PM
Well I think it is actuly a mmm rebadged by hpi as the q-base.

JJohnston
04-15-2011, 11:23 PM
Well I think it is actuly a mmm rebadged by hpi as the q-base.

The Blur system ? I am pretty sure that is a MMM

120 amp cont..

jbod
04-16-2011, 12:02 AM
I think the q-base is the 1/8 mmm. Well it uses the castle link for programing so I assume it is a rebadged castle. See on a forum they called it a mmm also.

iwh1952
04-16-2011, 08:15 AM
i know, but why would would it work with a 6S (25.2 volts) and not 4S ,14.8 volts? depends what motor you have is all

If you plug in the numbers to the E=IR formula, where E is voltage, I is current, amps, and R is the motor resistance, you will find that if the volts drop, the amps will increase. that's why it works on 6s and thermal shutdown on 4s.:thumbsup:

Promatchracer
04-16-2011, 08:44 AM
Wade you coming up today
Getting ready to head to the track right now
Wind is blowing pretty good right now

Hope to see you folks up here today

iwh1952
04-16-2011, 09:36 AM
Wade you coming up today
Getting ready to head to the track right now
Wind is blowing pretty good right now

Hope to see you folks up here today

Don't know for sure yet, how long are you going to stay open? We are moving soon and have a lot of prepping to do. If we do go up it won't be till late morning as Julie has n appt. @ 10:30. Also, is wind blowing enough to stop traffic across bridge? Maybe we will see ya.