I think all of us are guilty at one time or another of not bringing our issues to the people we issues with. The thing is not to beat ourselves up over it. I only mentioned it on the chat boards because I didn't know who exactly did what. If I had, I would have either spoke with them myself or taken it to you E. Since I didn't I just wanted to give the shout out.

Anytime you get a group of people together your going to have some issues. The only thing we can do is try our best to deal with them as they come.

I have always been proud of the way people have treated my daughter and tell others the same.

I think what was wrong yesterday with that person yelling at the kid, is that it happened every 'word I can not post' lap... The guy was crashing and crashing and crashing at the same place EVERY LAP, with of course the same Marshall there...

I have been guilty of yelling once during my first race at a kid and I apologize for it, but after that, I realized that it was time to chill... We can all get guilty of yelling at a slow Marshall once, but then you have to realize that if the Marshall is slow because he is a kid simply not knowing how to do it faster, and not because he is just slow or lazy (like sometime bad Marshall are...), then it becomes your responsibility to not crash there by yourself...
We all sometimes get caught up in crashes that are not our fault, and that's where patience with slow Marshall is sometimes difficult, but like yesterday, when you crash every single lap on the same jump and keep yelling at the kid, something is just not right... Even I wouldn't do that, and we all know I do call out the Marshall when they are day-dreaming...LOL

It was good to get some good racing going on last night. Almost wished they would have been another heat, I was starting to get comfortable driving fast on that track, and the last Mod truck race with Andy was a great time :)
Can't wait to do it again! :)

I would say the driver is insane. Doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. The kid is straight up, the drivers a nut job!

On another note, couple guys want to run E8th Saturday for the Halloween Havoc race. Tazz, Apple, Paul E, Tim B might want to run em??? Get in touch or give a shout out to anyone else I might have missed.

haha agreed. People have to learn to keep their personal frustrations to themselves and be cool to the kids. Kids are what will make this hobby grow. Parents bring in the kids and see how much fun they are having then the parents eventually end up with vehicles to race. If the kids are happy they can't wait to come back. If they get berated, well.........

hopefully i dont get a bunch of crap, but im having a hard time deciding which stadium truck to get. my choices are, kyosho rt5, ae ft t4.1 or Tq sx10t. all are very good trucks. maybe some help can put my decision to rest

Truck
1. Kyosho
2. Ae

Buggy
1. TQ
2. Kyosho
3. AE

But your a kid, so I'd get all AE

Truck
1. Kyosho
2. Ae

Buggy
1. TQ
2. Kyosho
3. AE

But your a kid, so I'd get all AE

i need something that is very race proven, durable and awesome handleing....JJ told me kyosho is the way to go...but them i have to start all over on wheels,tires...maybe i will just get the .1 kits

go with the Kyosho. the products are awesome.

Hey, what time are to doors opening next Sat??

8am they open

go with the FT SC10. the products are awesome.

On another note, couple guys want to run E8th Saturday for the Halloween Havoc race. Tazz, Apple, Paul E, Tim B might want to run em??? Get in touch or give a shout out to anyone else I might have missed.

I asked about this in the Havoc race thread..I got mine ready to roll. :thumbsup:

i need something that is very race proven, durable and awesome handleing....JJ told me kyosho is the way to go...but them i have to start all over on wheels,tires...maybe i will just get the .1 kits the first time i took out my rt5 there was no comparison to the t4.1 the kyosho drives like the old t3 but with better handling

Associated all the way. New t4.1 factory team is super fast out of the box. First time out A main qualified with instruction manual setup recomendations.

i currently have the ft t4 and b4. i think i may try the t4.1 kit because i like how the associated cars drive. i will run a couple races with these cars and if i feel i need something more advanced then i may do it. or til i drive one

hay broc you putting money on that lol j/k we we see what is better this weekend if i can get a new spur for my kyosho i will be good to go

BlahBlahBlah!!!!

hay broc you putting money on that lol j/k we we see what is better this weekend if i can get a new spur for my kyosho i will be good to go

drive each other trucks. that will be a better comparison. right?

lookin for a brushless speedo, will be there friday.

I have a GTB i'm willing to part with, PM me if your interested

i need something that is very race proven, durable and awesome handleing....JJ told me kyosho is the way to go...but them i have to start all over on wheels,tires...maybe i will just get the .1 kits


Go with the associated stuff. Its alot easier and cheaper to get parts for up there. Plus alot more of the guys up there will be able to lend a hand with set up help. Nothing against the Kyosho its a great unit but up where you are at parts are going to be scarce.

hopefully i dont get a bunch of crap, but im having a hard time deciding which stadium truck to get. my choices are, kyosho rt5, ae ft t4.1 or Tq sx10t. all are very good trucks. maybe some help can put my decision to rest

I have always been partial to Traxxas , Asscociated, Losi, and Hpi. Got a TQ now too. Hope this helps.

if anyone would like to see how a Kyosho rig drives, let me know. you guys always know im willing to let anyone have some laps with my stuff.

Super D is running the kyosho scr and has never broke since nationals. Granted it is not cheap but you put it together and your done! It actually drives itself which is really why it hasn't broke.

Has there been any turnout for 17.5 Buggy on saturdays...???

Boost/timing allowed on the speedos?

Go with the associated stuff. Its alot easier and cheaper to get parts for up there. Plus alot more of the guys up there will be able to lend a hand with set up help. Nothing against the Kyosho its a great unit but up where you are at parts are going to be scarce.

I think Sidetrax is carrying parts for Kyosho now.

I think Sidetrax is carrying parts for Kyosho now.

as does Twisted RC.

if anyone would like to see how a Kyosho rig drives, let me know. you guys always know im willing to let anyone have some laps with my stuff.

This is the best way to see what fits your driving. I'm sure anyone will let you test drive their ride before making your decision.:thumbsup:

good point nolan well some what with nick names like crash its hard to test drive others cars lol

OK but if Crash ask don't let him LOL

Super D is running the kyosho scr and has never broke since nationals. Granted it is not cheap but you put it together and your done! It actually drives itself which is really why it hasn't broke.

The only problem I have ever had with mine was the axles. But that was my own fault, I have fixed the issue and have not had any issues with it since.

I love running my rigs, they drive awesome. The SC truck I feel like I can put it anywhere on the track, my RT5 is glued to the track. :thumbsup:

OK but if Crash ask don't let him LOL
i own my own rt5 and i love it

Got the new RT5 and RB5sp2 assembled and painted :) Thanks for the pointers Kyle :thumbsup:
Havoc will be the 1st run for them. Overall the kits are pretty impressive. Build was smooth, shocks are awesome. I really like the attention to detail. Craig and Larry have parts on hand. Parts do cost a little more but little things like a suspension arm set including 1 front and 1 rear might save you some money in the long run.

Okay, thanks Munson. Then all he needs to do is go to the Virus Racing thread and go under State Championships and read. I posted the answer to that question before he even asked it.

ok i seen it over there:thumbsup: ...on the other note Halloween havoc race same track as BR3 ?

hey guys i am having a lot of trouble getting the video up on YouTube from br3 and northern lights race that i took. if interested and want any of the video bring your memory sticks to the Halloween race:thumbsup:

hopefully i dont get a bunch of crap, but im having a hard time deciding which stadium truck to get. my choices are, kyosho rt5, ae ft t4.1 or Tq sx10t. all are very good trucks. maybe some help can put my decision to rest

Like everybody said already, both trucks are really good. They both have the potential of being perfect for you...

I personally have a RT5 and like it a little better for my driving style than the T4 I had before that. But they are for sure both really good, and at the end it will come down to how fresh your truck is (maintenance) and how new your tires are every racing night. They are so close from each other as far a potential, that you should not notice any difference after finding the right setup for you...

Since you already have a T4, I would recommend to stay with AE, unless you are ready to replace all your spare parts and you like the idea of trying something new...
It all comes down to finding the right setup for you... If you know a lot about setup, try the Kyosho... If you are just average and you have a good starting setup on your T4, stay with AE...
In any case, they are lots of people with both trucks and great setup to start from at PG...

Anyone have any suggestions on a replacement servo for my Blitz? Had a small mishap on Friday night and stripped the servo horn gears. I was using a Spektrum S200 servo that came with my DX3E radio. New is OK, used would be better. If anyone has one for sale, let me know. I live 5 minutes from the track.

buy the traxxas 2075 best money for your buck

I've got an ae1015, pretty much bad ass. $60

as does Twisted RC.

He isnt from GR he is from Gaylord!

? mike did you ever raced at so saint mari

? mike did you ever raced at so saint mari

No i havent thats 3.5 hours from my house! LOL I have raced at 2 different tracks in greenbay which is about an hour away and still waiting for the track up in Iron mountain to reopen. They were carpet only and are switching to dirt! Should be anyday now i guess.

as does Twisted RC.
I am not able to find the link to any Kyosho part on twisted rc... Any link?
Thanks

i have started playing with the set up on my t4 but still am figuring out what does what. can anyone tell me what bumpsteer is? and if i do what to it what will it do? thanks

I am not able to find the link to any Kyosho part on twisted rc... Any link?
Thanks

I was just there last week Friday for the first time. I don't think I would take their website as gospel. That place is unbelievable with the amount of parts they have. You really need to go there to see firs hand what they have. Short of that, just give them a call and ask.

I am not able to find the link to any Kyosho part on twisted rc... Any link?
Thanks

they dont have them listed on the online site. dont know why. go to there hobby shop, believe me they have about every part for every car, regardless of manufacturer. The place is insane.

i have started playing with the set up on my t4 but still am figuring out what does what. can anyone tell me what bumpsteer is? and if i do what to it what will it do? thanks
Ready for the technical answer to that question? This is from a tech page I often use as reference, their web site is http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/index.asp Here goes:

Bump Steer

A. Definition

Bump Steer is when your wheels steer themselves without input from the steering wheel. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps in the track interacting with improper length or angle of your suspension and steering linkages.

Most car builders design their cars so that the effects of bump steer are minimal. However, you must still take care to bolt on your suspension carefully so as not to create unwanted bump steer. Make sure that you are always using the correct components for a particular car. Bump steer must be designed into the car and cannot be adjusted out if improper parts are used or if pivot points are moved without considering bump steer design principles.

In order to accomplish zero bump the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint and an imaginary line that runs through the upper a-arm pivot and the lower control arm pivot. In addition, the centerline of the tie rod must intersect with the instant center created by the upper a-arm and the lower control arm (See diagram below).

The instant center is an imaginary point that is created by drawing a line from the upper a-arm ball joint through the a-arm pivot where it is intersected by an imaginary line that extends from the lower ball joint through the inner control arm pivot. Where the two imaginary lines intersect is the instant center.

Sounds complicated? Really it is very simple. To achieve zero bump the front end must be designed correctly. The tie rod must travel on the same arc as the suspension when the car goes through travel. Simply matching lengths and arcs to prevent any unwanted steering of the front tires.

To exaggerate, if the tie rod were only 10" long and the suspension were 20" long then when the suspension traveled the tie rod angle would shorten much quicker than the suspension arc. In this scenario the tie rod would shorten much quicker through travel than the suspension and the car would toe in drastically over bumps. The shorter arc of the tie rod would pull on the spindle and toe it in through travel.

Bump Simplified - When designing a car, if the centerline of the outer tie rod lines up with the centerline of the lower ball joint, and the inter tie rod lines up with the lower pivot point then the length and angle of the tie rod and suspension will be the same resulting in zero bump. Most car builders design their cars in this fashion.

B. Preparing the Car for Bump Steer Measurement

Your front suspension must be complete and set for racetrack conditions before you can measure the bump steer. All components must be tight and in proper position and you will need a quality bump steer gauge.

Set the car at ride height.
Use the proper size tires and air pressures.
Caster must be set.
Camber must be set.
Toe in must be set.
Tie rod lengths must be set.
Steering should be centered (tie rod ends centered on inner pivot points lower ball joints).
Steering must be locked down.
Measure from the ground to the lower ball joint or other reliable reference point. Write the number down.
Remove springs and disconnect the sway bar.
Return the suspension to the proper height by using your reference number to the ground.
Obtain a supply of bump steer shims.
Bolt on the bump steer plate to the hub. Level the plate and note where the dial indicator is on the bump steer plate so that you can quickly return to the correct ride height.
Jack the suspension through 2"-3" of both compression and rebound travel and write down your results.
Shim as needed.
C. Making Bump Steer Corrections

Now that you have measured your bump steer you will need to adjust, shim or relocate the suspension components to get the exact reading that you desire. Below are some tips that will quickly guide you through the corrective process for cars with front steer style suspension.


Symptom Cure
Symptom 1. Toes out in compression and in on rebound all in one direction. Cure 1. Decrease shim on outer tie rod or lower the inner tie rod.

Symptom 2. Toes in on compression and out in rebound all in one direction. Cure 2. More shim at outer tie rod or raise the inner tie rod.

Symptom 3. Always toes in both compression and rebound. Cure 3. Lengthen the tie rod as it is too short.

Symptom 4. Always toes out on compression and rebound. Cure 4. Shorten tie rod as it is too long.

Symptom 5. Toes out on compression, then in on rebound and then starts back towards out with more rebound travel. Cure 5. Less shim at outer tie rod and shorten tie rod.

Symptom 6. Toes in on compression, then moves out on rebound and then starts back towards in with more rebound travel. Cure 6. More shim at outer tie rod and lengthen tie rod.

D. Using the Bump Steer Gauge

Selecting a good bump steer gauge makes the process easier. I like the bump steer gauges that utilize only one dial indicator. One dial indicator bump gauges do the math for you and you avoid having to watch two dial indicators move at the same time. Sometimes when the bump is way out of adjustment it takes two people to watch both of the indicators. The one indicator design is much easier to use.

When you set up your bump steer gauge with the car at the proper height set the dial indicator at the center of the bump steer plate and be sure that the indicator is set in the middle of its range. You want to avoid running out of indicator travel.

Once the indicator is set simply jack the suspension through 2"-3" of compression. Stop at each inch and record your reading. Repeat the process through rebound and record those numbers at each 1-inch interval.

If the front of the bump steer plate is moving towards the engine then you have a bump in condition. If the front of the plate moves away from the engine then you have bump out. The dial indicator will see small amounts so watch it carefully and note your results.

E. How Much Bump Steer ?

Ideally you should run as little bump steer as possible. Most of the tracks we see today are old and bumpy. Bump steer on these rough surfaces causes the car to be unpredictable.

Some bump out can make the car more stable on corner entry. Bump in is almost always undesirable.

Some people use small amounts of bump out to create entry stability and an Ackerman type effect in the center of the turn where as the bump setting causes the LF to turn a bit farther than the RF as the RF compresses and the LF extends.

My recommendation is to run .005 to .015 thousands of bump out but never allow the tires to bump in.

If you want Ackerman in the center of the turn then add Ackerman while maintaining proper bump. If you use bump to obtain some Ackerman effect the car will be unsettled as it goes over each bump, which will break the contact patch from the racing surface.

If the design of your car does not allow for such precise bump adjustments then more bump out is better than any bump in. However, strive to get the best bump numbers even it if means replacing parts. Excessive bump over .050 can slow your car down.

The first I went to twisted, I was like where the heck is this place. ? When you get there and open the door your jaw will drop !! Its amazing. Larry will give you parts as fast as you can read them off.

kerby how much the novak gtb thanks jim