i have a couple bodies i would like to paint but one is chrome and one is colored chrome. what is the best way to remove it?

From what I've heard fresh Windex (use the real stuff) will remove it. For the colored one, the second layer will most likely need fresh windex to remove the chrome underneath. Should take a day or two of soaking for the chrome one, and a couple days each layer for the colored one. Occasionally scratch what loosens up with a fingernail to remove the loose stuff and then re-soak.

Windex works great removing chrome. At least with Aurora/AFX bumpers, first time I did a set I couldn't believe how fast and thorough it took the plating off. Now with a body, you might need a little more time in the jar. :thumbsup: rr

i will give windex a try and post back the results. thank you slotcarman and roadrner.:)

Windex ....... works for me.

Just remember, stripping bodies takes a longer than bumpers, and it may not remove all of it. As the chrome is removed it affects the windex and after a day of removal, change it. I stripped a red chrome JL camaro, and after a day it may as well have been sitting in water. That got it down to the chrome level. I gave up when it got stuck at the chrome level, but I didn't realize I had to use fresh stuff for the next layer! Fresh windex daily!!!!

use bleach white (auto parts store for cleaning w/w and w letters on tires)
just dont leave in over night i used to remove chrome on 1/24 models i built

I use Simple Green or Super Clean Degreaser (Purple Container). For Aurora bodies there is a layer underneath the chrome (on wheels and bodies but not bumpers) that is redish/brown and is tough to remove but Super Clean has worked best for me. I'll try Windex next time to compare.

Tom

Mean Green cleaner and degreaser is what Ive been using. Apparently it doesnt 'wear out' quite as much as windex, since I have the same tub for like 6 months. Still takes it right off. Soak for a few days, then use a cheap toothbrush to scrub it, let it soak for a few more, scrub soak scrub soak. Tyco, JL and AW bodies do have that under layer thats the toughest part to get off.

Easy Off for me...mostly because I use it for stripping paint too...The Mt. Everest scenario: Because it's there.

Blows the chrome off instantly and takes the ooky brown lacquer undercoat with it. A bit more spendy...but it does provide me with much needed instant gratification. For the most part I'm a pretty patient guy; however dilly dallying getting to square one waiting for stripper(s) to work bunches up my boxers.

I take a good supportive grip on the body, and rub it on the sidewalk. Comes right off.

I take a good supportive grip on the body, and rub it on the sidewalk. Comes right off.

I figured it would be something like that or rubbing the wall!!! :p:p As many times as you put your car back on the track, it naturally comes off...RM

Liquid Draino.........(Use this brand only) and when your done with it, it cleans your pipes out! This will aslo remove some of those vintage "Testors" painted bodies that nothing else will remove.

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Cloudy ammonia will remove the chrome and all of the binder that makes it stick to the plastic.

-Paul

Liquid Draino.........(Use this brand only) and when your done with it, it cleans your pipes out! This will aslo remove some of those vintage "Testors" painted bodies that nothing else will remove.

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com (http://www.SlotCarJohnnies.com)

Wonder how this stuff would work on the AW Suburban in that dark blue? Has to be one of the hardest bodies I've ever stripped. :rolleyes: rr

Wonder how this stuff would work on the AW Suburban in that dark blue? Has to be one of the hardest bodies I've ever stripped. :rolleyes: rr

It will effect it but not for a LONG time....I use Easy Off or break fluid.


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waiting for stripper(s) to work bunches up my boxers.

WATCHING strippers work usually bunches up mine!

It will effect it but not for a LONG time....I use Easy Off or break fluid.


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Brake Fluid will make AFX plastic brittle. My poor BMW M1 :(

From what I've heard fresh Windex (use the real stuff) will remove it. For the colored one, the second layer will most likely need fresh windex to remove the chrome underneath. Should take a day or two of soaking for the chrome one, and a couple days each layer for the colored one. Occasionally scratch what loosens up with a fingernail to remove the loose stuff and then re-soak.

tried the windex trick last night. 3to4 hrs after started color on chrome mostly gone. used a plastic type brush in a dremel to clean out grooves that worked better than a tooth brush.dumped out used windex poured new.soaked car over night.checked on this morning chrome is all gone.still has a brownish film on most of it.poured out old again and poured new.brushed body again seems to be coming off. put body back in to soak.

Just curious, what type and brand of body are you stripping??? Aurora T Jet, AFX, JL, Dash, Tyco, AW, etc.??? ...RM

I use ELO (Easy Lift Off ) from micromark.Liquid plumber is great for removing chrome frorm old TYCO cars.

Neal :dude:

Brake Fluid will make AFX plastic brittle. My poor BMW M1 :(

As with any science project, you need to do some experimenting first, but Break fluid, ELO and most any chemical will make the plastic brittle.....if you leave it in long enough. For a chrome strip it should be fine....and I've never had any trouble with dark colored plastics and the aformentioned chemicals.


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after about 36 hours soaking and brushing this AW body(I THINK) is chrome no more. the last about 24 hours has been working on that brown film left under the chrome. all gone now. nice fairly white body. very happy with results from using windex.this will be my first choice in the future. very little clean up, very low smell,inexspensive,does not seem to affect the plastic.other than the time all good.the time issue isnt even a issue to me as i have other projects going on all at the same time.i would like to thank everyone for there input.