I go to New Egypt Speedway. There is a new National late model series coming to New Egypt this year. Also run Limited Lates at Grand View in Pa. That may be the closest track for everyone to go to on a road trip. Ive never been there or Orange County, so both would be good to me. Also the big boys in late model have made it to Jersey be it at Bridgeport Speedway or New Egypt. Also World of Outlaw spints make an occassional appearance too. Lots of choices to hit a race if we can get something together.

Bob - Sounded like you had time to work on the RC's last night. Are you getting new lids for the truggy/slash/MP9/L8 model? Lets see some pics if you are. I like your paint schemes.

Bob - Sounded like you had time to work on the RC's last night. Are you getting new lids for the truggy/slash/MP9/L8 model? Lets see some pics if you are. I like your paint schemes.

Thanks Steve.

Right now looks like the only new lids for season start are my L8 and possibly the Slash.

With all the other bits and pieces I'm needing, I have to put the STRR and MP9 lids on the back burner.

A question about ball Diff. How tight do you make them? I know so they don't slip but does that mean by hand or just when driving under it's own power.

You got a PM Randy. In my 1/18th scale buggy I had the ball diff slip by hand.

It was too cold to run any fuel through my engine this weekend :freak: .

It was too cold to run any fuel through my engine this weekend :freak: .

Well end of this week is supposed to be in the seventies. You've got some time.:thumbsup:

Just put my L8 NINJA back together too bad pistons and sleeves are non-existent. Hope it makes the season. Might pick up a Werks 5 port.

A question about ball Diff. How tight do you make them? I know so they slip but does that mean by hand or just when driving under it's own power.
Ball diff isn't supposed to slip. That's what the slipper clutch is for.

Ball diff isn't supposed to slip. That's what the slipper clutch is for.

LOL, I know. What I want to know is how tight should a ball diff be. If I hold the outdrive from moving and I take my hand and try to move the diff gear should I be able to move it at all regardless of how much force I apply.

Sorry in my first question I had miss spelled it, should have said "I know so they don't slip"

LOL, I know. What I want to know is how tight should a ball diff be. If I hold the outdrive from moving and I take my hand and try to move the diff gear should I be able to move it at all regardless of how much force I apply.

Sorry in my first question I had miss spelled it, should have said "I know so they don't slip"
That depends on how strong your fingers are. It shouldn't slip with "reasonable" force applied but what is "reasonable" for me might be "next to nothing" for you. I'm pretty sure that no matter how tight I've made a ball diff, I can always slip it a little with my fingers if I apply enough force. I've never tried it with a torque wrench, so I can't give you a quantitative answer.

As fas as how tight a given diff should be, it is best to use the manufacturers assembly instructions as a starting point. But you knew that, right?

Randy - what diff are you referring to? Sprinter or 1/10th scale buggy?

Randy - what diff are you referring to? Sprinter or 1/10th scale buggy?

Well any ball diff. I bought new balls and shims for my cr. I had set them up as per the manual but in the past I always made them to tight and the diff action was poor. It's tough for me to know if it's slipping when driving. I read that you will hear chatter if it's slipping but I don't know for sure.

I know this is a easy thing for the season racer but found my diff to tight last year as I had a hard time in the turns.

Here are the ball diff. instuctions from the Custom Works manual.

Hope it helps.

-Screw the Diff Bolt into the T-nut until you feel the Diff
Spring fully compress. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!
- Back the Diff Bolt off EXACTLY 1/8 of a turn. Diff motion
should be smooth and the Outdrives will turn in opposite
directions

I always wondered about the action of a ball diff. They all say make them tight so they dont slip. When you spin one rear tire on a planetary diff the other spins in reverse. I do that on my XXX CR and they both spin in the same direction. So wheres the benefit of the ball diff? It acts like a solid axle which does not help you in the turns. Its makes you push. Mine is supposedly set up correctly. Mark does it sound like mine is too tight? I think sometimes on the track I can here mine slip. It makes that "barking' sound as I have heard it described. Maybe I need to loosen up my slipper a little? What do you think Mark? Mine turns ok. Maybe it can turn better?

How much rain did you guys up North get last night? The skies opened up Just South of you here last night from 11 to 1. Rivers and streams are up almost at flood stage. More to come. didnt we just got hrough this a few weeks ago? I hope this isnt any indication of what to expect during the upcoming season?

I always wondered about the action of a ball diff. They all say make them tight so they dont slip. When you spin one rear tire on a planetary diff the other spins in reverse. I do that on my XXX CR and they both spin in the same direction. So wheres the benefit of the ball diff? It acts like a solid axle which does not help you in the turns. Its makes you push. Mine is supposedly set up correctly. Mark does it sound like mine is too tight? I think sometimes on the track I can here mine slip. It makes that "barking' sound as I have heard it described. Maybe I need to loosen up my slipper a little? What do you think Mark? Mine turns ok. Maybe it can turn better?

If both wheels are turning in the same direction something is wrong. When you adjust the diff, you have to lock the slipper down first. With new parts, I first adjust the diff by locking both outdrives, and then adjusting the screw so I can barely move the spur gear. Even this tight, the diff should be smooth, and the wheels should spin opposite of each other. The slipper ALWAYS MUST SLIP first. A newly built diff must always be readjusted after you first run it. Most diff problems are actually in the thrust bearing, not the diff. This is especially true offroad. The thrust bearing is the weak link because it has to be so small, and exposed to dirt.

hey guys one quick question im looking to get a car for dirt oval just not sure what classes they run im looking to get a sprint or late model just not sure of electric or gas. any help would be cool thanks

If both wheels are turning in the same direction something is wrong. When you adjust the diff, you have to lock the slipper down first. With new parts, I first adjust the diff by locking both outdrives, and then adjusting the screw so I can barely move the spur gear. Even this tight, the diff should be smooth, and the wheels should spin opposite of each other. The slipper ALWAYS MUST SLIP first. A newly built diff must always be readjusted after you first run it. Most diff problems are actually in the thrust bearing, not the diff. This is especially true offroad. The thrust bearing is the weak link because it has to be so small, and exposed to dirt.

I guess I did it right then. I adj the diff to where I need to put some good force to make it slipe with holding the outdrives. Then when I put the whole assy together the wheels spin in opposite direction real nice a smooth. I never felt a diff so smooth before. We will see how well I did soon enough.

hey guys one quick question im looking to get a car for dirt oval just not sure what classes they run im looking to get a sprint or late model just not sure of electric or gas. any help would be cool thanks

Electric Sprints, 1/8 scale nitro Late Models. Both classes should be pretty big this year.

I always wondered about the action of a ball diff. They all say make them tight so they dont slip. When you spin one rear tire on a planetary diff the other spins in reverse. I do that on my XXX CR and they both spin in the same direction. So wheres the benefit of the ball diff? It acts like a solid axle which does not help you in the turns. Its makes you push. Mine is supposedly set up correctly. Mark does it sound like mine is too tight? I think sometimes on the track I can here mine slip. It makes that "barking' sound as I have heard it described. Maybe I need to loosen up my slipper a little? What do you think Mark? Mine turns ok. Maybe it can turn better?

If both wheels are turning in the same direction something is wrong. When you adjust the diff, you have to lock the slipper down first. With new parts, I first adjust the diff by locking both outdrives, and then adjusting the screw so I can barely move the spur gear. Even this tight, the diff should be smooth, and the wheels should spin opposite of each other. The slipper ALWAYS MUST SLIP first. A newly built diff must always be readjusted after you first run it. Most diff problems are actually in the thrust bearing, not the diff. This is especially true offroad. The thrust bearing is the weak link because it has to be so small, and exposed to dirt.
It is not necessarily true that your diff is too tight if both wheels turn in the same direction when you turn one by hand. It depends on what kind of motor you have.

Brushed motors have more drag than brushless and typically turning one wheel would not turn the motor but turn the other wheel in the opposite direction. Brushless motors have so little drag that you can easily turn the motor by turning one wheel, thus the two wheels will turn in the same direction. I assure you my sprint car diff is adjusted correctly and I can easily turn both wheels in the same direction and have the motor spin. This is especially easy with the Castle motors since they have no magnetic detents. The only resistance to turning them is the bearings.

Ball diffs always have some resistance to turning if they are tight enough not to slip. This will generally be more than the resistance afforded by the motor bearings and in some cases the motor magnetic detents and so both wheels will turn in the same direction when you rotate one by hand [slowly]. If you jerk the wheel, then the rotor inertia comes into play and the wheels probably will turn in different directions.

So If I hold the spur gear still and turn one tire, the other should spin opposite. If it spins the same directon?

So If I hold the spur gear still and turn one tire, the other should spin opposite. If it spins the same directon?
If you hold the spur gear and turn one wheel and the other one turns the same way something is really wrong in the trans.

It is not necessarily true that your diff is too tight if both wheels turn in the same direction when you turn one by hand. It depends on what kind of motor you have.

Brushed motors have more drag than brushless and typically turning one wheel would not turn the motor but turn the other wheel in the opposite direction. Brushless motors have so little drag that you can easily turn the motor by turning one wheel, thus the two wheels will turn in the same direction. I assure you my sprint car diff is adjusted correctly and I can easily turn both wheels in the same direction and have the motor spin. This is especially easy with the Castle motors since they have no magnetic detents. The only resistance to turning them is the bearings.

Ball diffs always have some resistance to turning if they are tight enough not to slip. This will generally be more than the resistance afforded by the motor bearings and in some cases the motor magnetic detents and so both wheels will turn in the same direction when you rotate one by hand [slowly]. If you jerk the wheel, then the rotor inertia comes into play and the wheels probably will turn in different directions.

Ahh, I just assumed we were talking about the direction of the wheels with the spur gear held fixed.

Ahh, I just assumed we were talking about the direction of the wheels with the spur gear held fixed.
Maybe they were and I got carried away with my answer. But I couldn't see how the two tires could rotate in the same direction with the spur being held still unless the idler was stripped out.

Ahh, I just assumed we were talking about the direction of the wheels with the spur gear held fixed.

Yes that is what I was talking about.

Maybe they were and I got carried away with my answer. But I couldn't see how the two tires could rotate in the same direction with the spur being held still unless the idler was stripped out.

No you didnt Mark. Turning a rear wheel while holding the spur gear was never specified.

While holding the spur still and rotating one tire, the other tire spins in the opposite direction. So Im good. Hey Randy, thanks for asking the question. LOL Like Mark said, the brushless motor doesnt provide enough friction to hold the spur still. So it was spinning.

anybody going to the track on Saturday....its gonna be sunny and 70 I'll be there... gate open gods hopefully will be there..

Weather like this makes me grateful Tim introduced me to Carpet Racing :(

Hyde you in for tomorrow?

Cr@p, I just caught up on this now, thanks for checking in on me.
I plan on definitely heading up Saturday/Sunday April 10th/11th for the work days and on the 24th for the opening practice day.
I may even head up this weekend with the nice weather.

There is a truck load (pun intended) of Slash 4x4's going to be running. Derek has an SCRT10. Sure there are plenty of other mod trucks joining the SC party.
Sprint will be pretty big this year too. And sounds like plenty of people running 2WD 1/10 buggy as well as 4WD. So pick your poison. Good thing is their all 2s so that meets one of you basic requirements, of simple battery management.

Toby, do you know of anyone running the Jammin'/OFNA SCRT-10 4WD SC Truck? I may dip into my second class and grab a short course truck but I feel like everyone is all over the 4WD Slashes. I want to try something new in this class.

Guess whose custom body is all done????
Just waiting to get it in the mail now!!!

My E-8th will finally be done and ready for the track this season.
Just in time for people dropping out of the 1/8th scale buggy class, lol.
At least I have Randy building one up for a direct competition.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4261/wed032810010.jpg

anybody going to the track on Saturday....its gonna be sunny and 70 I'll be there... gate open gods hopefully will be there..

I may head up this Saturday or Sunday. Does the gate have to be open for us to be allowed on the track to practice / race? I went up there one warmer weekend over the winter but the gate was closed and no one was there.

Toby, do you know of anyone running the Jammin'/OFNA SCRT-10 4WD SC Truck? I may dip into my second class and grab a short course truck but I feel like everyone is all over the 4WD Slashes. I want to try something new in this class.


Yes Derek has an SCRT10. I don't know of any others yet but from all I have read its a solid performer in this class, so go for it!

Guess whose custom body is all done????
Just waiting to get it in the mail now!!!

My E-8th will finally be done and ready for the track this season.
Just in time for people dropping out of the 1/8th scale buggy class, lol.
At least I have Randy building one up for a direct competition.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4261/wed032810010.jpg



I may head up this Saturday or Sunday. Does the gate have to be open for us to be allowed on the track to practice / race? I went up there one warmer weekend over the winter but the gate was closed and no one was there.

Nice looking body. Finishing up my E8 this week also.

You can use the track anytime regardless of gate being open.

I hope to get to the track this weekend also.

I was considering both the Ofna and the Jammin short course trucks to run in lieu of my E-8. E-8 was fun, I just had logistical and budgetary problems with keeping enough batteries ready to go at the track. Anyway, the thing that turned me away from those options personally is that a lot of the chatter on RC-Tech suggests that they cook 540 sized motors due to the higher weight of the aluminum chassis and drivetrain. It seems like a lot of people have switched to using the Novak HV (550 size) motors with a 2S pack, and from what I read, the Havoc Pro is borderline with that motor series. I can't afford to buy another motor and ESC combo at the moment and I don't want to cook my Havoc trying to run too much motor, so I'm staying away from those two, even though they probably are better racers. Of course, it could be nothing but hearsay. I just don't want to find out the hard way.

Nice paint job on the buggy body, BTW.

Cr@p, I just caught up on this now, thanks for checking in on me.
I plan on definitely heading up Saturday/Sunday April 10th/11th for the work days and on the 24th for the opening practice day.
I may even head up this weekend with the nice weather.



Toby, do you know of anyone running the Jammin'/OFNA SCRT-10 4WD SC Truck? I may dip into my second class and grab a short course truck but I feel like everyone is all over the 4WD Slashes. I want to try something new in this class.

Guess whose custom body is all done????
Just waiting to get it in the mail now!!!

My E-8th will finally be done and ready for the track this season.
Just in time for people dropping out of the 1/8th scale buggy class, lol.
At least I have Randy building one up for a direct competition.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4261/wed032810010.jpg



I may head up this Saturday or Sunday. Does the gate have to be open for us to be allowed on the track to practice / race? I went up there one warmer weekend over the winter but the gate was closed and no one was there.

I saw you were on at that time so I shot you a message. We had a lot of fun. Track was in great shape for not being touched since September.

Yes Derek has an SCRT10. I don't know of any others yet but from all I have read its a solid performer in this class, so go for it!

It should be a solid performer. Its basically a 1/8th scale buggy with short course tires and body.

Nice Lid. Now go get it dirty. :)

Boxes, envelopes and the like have started arriving via brown and white vehicles. :thumbsup:

Boxes, envelopes and the like have started arriving via brown and white vehicles. :thumbsup:

LMAO :thumbsup:

Boxes, envelopes and the like have started arriving via brown and white vehicles. :thumbsup:

Don't ya just love it :):cool:

Don't ya just love it :):cool:

This year has been much easier than last. I got a few good side jobs that have helped fund my addiction. :thumbsup:

This year has been much easier than last. I got a few good side jobs that have helped fund my addiction. :thumbsup:

Addiction funding is good:thumbsup:

Nice looking body. Finishing up my E8 this week also.

You can use the track anytime regardless of gate being open.

I hope to get to the track this weekend also.

The County now requires that a Dirtrunners member is present when the track is in use . (there is a new County Parks Commissioner) We will be posting a sign stating this soon . That being said any Dirtrunner member may use the track if the gate is open or not . :thumbsup::cool:

The County now requires that a Dirtrunners member is present when the track is in use . (there is a new County Parks Commissioner) We will be posting a sign stating this soon . That being said any Dirtrunner member may use the track if the gate is open or not . :thumbsup::cool:

Thanks for the clarification Dan. Good to know :)

This year has been much easier than last. I got a few good side jobs that have helped fund my addiction. :thumbsup:

Likewise. If I hadn't have had a couple of things on the side thru 2009 and into 2010 I would have had to have sold the wife's shoe collection and car to fund all this :freak: hehe

Likewise. If I hadn't have had a couple of things on the side thru 2009 and into 2010 I would have had to have sold the wife's shoe collection and car to fund all this :freak: hehe

If I didn't have this side work going on in Va. my addiction funding would be screwed for this year :freak::cool:

The County now requires that a Dirtrunners member is present when the track is in use . (there is a new County Parks Commissioner) We will be posting a sign stating this soon . That being said any Dirtrunner member may use the track if the gate is open or not . :thumbsup::cool:

I honestly don't see how that is going to be enforced. How are the heck are they going to know a member from a non-member?

I just spoke to Mr Long. He just did a deal on an 8th Scale E-buggy, so glad to see he's still in this class :)

I honestly don't see how that is going to be enforced. How are the heck are they going to know a member from a non-member?

As long as the signs are posted as the county requires, the club is safe.

As long as the signs are posted as the county requires, the club is safe.

:thumbsup:

I honestly don't see how that is going to be enforced. How are the heck are they going to know a member from a non-member?

Membership cards would certainly identify club members. No ticky, no shirty.