I'm planning to light the windows on my TOS 22" cutaway. The windows are about 1/8"x1/16" so I don't think fiber optics would work. What would be the best method for making windows? should I use thin clear sheet or try to fill the window holes with something that dries clear?

have you thought of filling the holes with clear epoxy? you don't really want clear "see-thru" windows, anyway, do you?

have you thought of filling the holes with clear epoxy? you don't really want clear "see-thru" windows, anyway, do you?

not really "see-thru" just something that will pass light, probaby warm-white LEDs.

I've never used clear epoxy but willing to try it.

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/9294/002gz.jpg

some thing to think about...

please don't make the mistake of lighting every window. leave a few blacked out. it's more realistic that way

Check out Sean Side's master build
http://squaremodels.com/images/ef6.jpg

I recently backed my Rom BoP winfows with a couple layers of wax paper. Diffused the light perfectly. Masking them off for painting is the tough part no matter what method used.

For shaping I recently learned to drill a hole at each end fo the square window and use a rectangular file to create the main shape. Never could imagine how to do that before.

Hello,
i used clear 2 part resin to make the windows. Masking tape was applied to the outside of the hull and then the resin was applied from the inside using a toothpick. Sanding the windows once set will opaque them slightly.

PS Them molded windows aint right! Check where the windows should be before carefully filing them out. I didn't to begin with and this led to a lot of harsh language later on!

One thing to consider is "HEAT" if you close all the windows up it will get hot inside the model, even using Leds. Heat is not good for this model kit design, trust me! If you have some questions drop me a line. 1-650-568-3400

Randy Neubert
VoodooFX
www.voodoofx.com

Hello,
i used clear 2 part resin to make the windows. Masking tape was applied to the outside of the hull and then the resin was applied from the inside using a toothpick. Sanding the windows once set will opaque them slightly.

Very nice work

PS Them molded windows aint right! Check where the windows should be before carefully filing them out. I didn't to begin with and this led to a lot of harsh language later on!

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to look into it. I wasn't thrilled with the kits decal sheet, so a aftermarket decal sheet and a resin detail kit are in the plan. I'm not surprised about the windows, the overall fit is horrible. It won't defeat me though.

One thing to consider is "HEAT" if you close all the windows up it will get hot inside the model, even using Leds. Heat is not good for this model kit design, trust me!

thanks, I may leave a vent somewhere. Most of the heat generators will be in a box/stand combo. But there will be a chaser circuit in the nacelles.

Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear works quite well. Tape the front side of the model, apply with a toothpick or brush from the rear.

Build up thread is here
www.resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=5668&highlight=22+TOS+enterprise
some of the pictures are bad, blurred and generally poor but it may be of help,
also, I haven't had any issues with heat generated so far

Clactonite

I really didn't use anything but it turned out rather well, I think.:o
-Jim

Since there are so few windows on the original 1701, what I've always done is a variation of what they did on the original - use solid blocks of plexiglass rod. In my case, I use mostly 3/16 rod, cut maybe 1/2" long. 3/16" holes are easy to drill all over the model, stuff with the rod, which acts as kind of a fiber optic (they used 1/2" x 1" or something on the original). The windows are way oversize, and easy to fill around the gaps with CA or epoxy and sand flush with the surface, and then just mask with bits of your preferred masking.