View Full Version : T- Jet Chassis Rivets


clydeomite
10-30-2009, 06:49 AM
Good Morning:
A few years ago on one of the lists a person had the t-jet chassis rivets for sale. A source was never revealed and I wondered if anyone here knows how to obtain these. Quantity is not a problem . If I need to buy 1000 or more I will do that. I fear I may need a wholesale license to deal with the manufacturer. Any Help???? I have a few left but way to many projects to complete with remaining stock.
Thankx
Clyde-0-Mite :tongue:

Bill Hall
10-30-2009, 08:21 AM
I'm in Clydo !

I have a hundred er so to sort through and shuffle around. Ill need half -o-that thousand.

Pomfish
10-30-2009, 08:46 AM
I recall people saying you could get them wherever they sell dollhouse supplies. Micheal's etc.?
These would be open rivets.
HTH

Keith

partspig
10-30-2009, 07:03 PM
Hey Clyde, Count me in too! I would be good for a few thou too!

Dragula
10-30-2009, 08:21 PM
Wow,i wonder who has them...hmmmmm....LOL :)
Drag

clydeomite
10-30-2009, 08:29 PM
Ok Duh thump me on the noggin!!!!! did a google search found them at jay-cee rivet co. 1-800-521-6777. Don't have a price or minimum quantity. But the have them in many different metals in the right size. I'll call them Monday and find out more. They have a downloadable catalog if you care to wait for it.
Clyde-0-Mite

Dragula
10-30-2009, 08:53 PM
Only problem with those are when you stake the "rivets" in place,they peel,like a JL/AW chassis and eventually get very loose.
Christian

clydeomite
10-31-2009, 02:31 AM
I have been dabbing a drop of superglue on the ones I install after I squash them. I made a tool from and old leather punch that allows mw to squeeze it together to postion it. Then I add the glue Might be able to stick a bigger punch in the hole and mushroom it even more. Just my mehtods, any other thoughts on installation?
Clyde-0-Mite

smalltime
10-31-2009, 07:51 AM
I have been dabbing a drop of superglue on the ones I install after I squash them. I made a tool from and old leather punch that allows mw to squeeze it together to postion it. Then I add the glue Might be able to stick a bigger punch in the hole and mushroom it even more. Just my mehtods, any other thoughts on installation?
Clyde-0-Mite

If I'm going to the trouble of replacing rivets, I'm shure not going to put in open rivets. You may want to try using brass machine screws. These can be adjusted, replaced and, if you want, peened over to be better than the original.

Dragula
10-31-2009, 09:57 PM
Actually,The "open" rivets are not rivets,rivets are closed end fastening devices,the open "rivet" is really an eyelet.And I have had these for years,and have thousands and thousands of them.

partspig
11-01-2009, 03:32 PM
OK, so how much for a thousand?

Dragula
11-01-2009, 05:38 PM
Need to check what I paid for them.

partspig
11-04-2009, 09:04 PM
Let's see HMMMM ......... TICK - TOC - TICK ........ or is it ??? Check, Check, Check?????

Dragula
11-05-2009, 05:46 PM
.07 a piece.
Christian
p.s. these are plated silver.

bobwoodly
08-19-2010, 09:45 AM
Clyde-0-Mite,

Did your order rivets from Jay-cee? What size/style rivet did you order? What is the best drill size for removal?

Tom

noddaz
08-19-2010, 01:55 PM
Have a look...

http://www.metalclayfindings.com/images/productimages/small/1000105.jpg

clydeomite
08-19-2010, 02:26 PM
Howdee:
I thought this thread had died a slow painfull death. I called CeeJay and they gave me the cold shoulder when I wanted to order "only 1000" . So I was back to chasing my tail and still am. If anyone comes up with any to sell let me know please.
Clyde-0-mite

videojimmy
08-19-2010, 02:42 PM
why was Dragula banned?

bobwoodly
08-19-2010, 02:45 PM
Clyde-0-mite,

I'll try to chase some down if someone has the specs on size. I assume copper (or brass) is the best material? I still have to get off my butt to see if I can find springs as well.

Tom

Bill Hall
08-19-2010, 02:48 PM
What is the minimum order? Lets pool our resources!

twolff
08-19-2010, 03:04 PM
why was Dragula banned?

Probably something to do with this thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=277779

Our loss if you ask me.

clydeomite
08-19-2010, 06:10 PM
Howdee Tom:
The measurement I came up with from the few spares I have is. head diameter.125x shaft diameter .059-.062. OAL .082.
Hope you have better luck than I did. I'm in for 1000 pcs if we can get em boys
Clyde-0-Mite

Bill Hall
08-19-2010, 06:27 PM
me too

partspig
08-19-2010, 07:27 PM
I would be interested in some of those bad boys also! Count me in!

bobwoodly
08-19-2010, 10:43 PM
You guys are sending a boy to do a man's job but I will give it a shot. I'm looking for tubular copper (or brass?) rivets with the following specs:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/ScreenHunter_01_Aug_19_22_27.jpg

Given this picture and Clyde's measurements:

B = head diameter.125
A = shaft diameter .059-.062
Length = OAL .082 ?
D = ?

Any idea on D? I don't have good calipers or I could measure the thickness of the chassis where the rivets go and subtract that from the length to make a guesstimate on D.

Found these - Grainger Item #1HBT9 -http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/tubular-and-semi-tubular-rivets/rivets/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8mmZ1z0nn0jZ1z0nmyn?op=search&sst=All the link does not seem to work right but I think grip range too thick. I'll go to a big supplier once I'm sure I've got the specs right.

clydeomite
08-20-2010, 09:09 AM
Howddee Tom:
Actually your " D" measurement should include the head of the rivet and I measured "C" and came up with about .050 or shaft length minus head thickness. In other words the bore of the inner shaft extends the length of the shaft unto the head inner bottom.
Clyde-0-Mite

bobwoodly
08-20-2010, 09:44 AM
Clyde,

So if I ask for

B = head diameter.125
A = shaft diameter .059-.062
Length = .082 or is length as showed in the picture .032 (.082 minus head of .050)
D = .050 or is D .032 (.082-.050)?

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/ScreenHunter_01_Aug_19_22_27.jpg

I'm guessing we can be a little off on the head length

Copper or Brass?

Is this correct? Just don't want to wind up with 10,000 wrong rivets

clydeomite
08-20-2010, 11:12 AM
Howdy Tom Overall Length is .082 this include head height. Or from the top of the rivet to the bottom is .082. the inner bore is whatever the length is minus the head height. Copper would be best but either or ?
Clyde-0-Mite

smalltime
08-20-2010, 05:11 PM
I've had some dealings with this type of thing.
The thickness of your total two materials is very important. The length is VERY important, as well as the 'D' dim.

I would try to get some in annealed copper, and talk to a pro regarding the app. They will know EXACTLY what you need. Remember, the plastic will compress a little so it's not a 1:1 deal.

BTW:
I'm in for some if you find what you need, say maybe 500?

tjetjunkman
09-14-2010, 09:55 PM
try this - http://www.volcanoarts.com/cart/eyelets/index.htm

bobwoodly
09-15-2010, 08:40 AM
tjetjunkman,

Great idea. I've been sidetracked and have not done any further investigation. Have you tried these by chance?

Tom

clydeomite
09-17-2010, 12:06 PM
Howdee:
I finally kicked over the right rock sort of! I did find rivets in the right size but they are Aluminum flat head types and a bit longer .125 vs.085. So yes they will work the price isn't too bad either. $3.00 per 100 or 1000 for $20.50. The number is 1-800-892-6917 Micro fasterners. We can all give a big thankx to Ford Cowboy for supplying this information. I hope this helps the folks who expressed interest in this idea.
Clyde-0-Mite
P.S. part number RVL-104C will get you a domed rivet in a slightly longer length (.250)

tjetjunkman
09-19-2010, 11:52 PM
Tom

Yes, i tried them on a couple cars and so far seem to do ok.

mikes1939chevy
01-17-2011, 12:49 AM
I am interested in T-Jet Chassis Rivets.