So, what would be recommended equipment to fully outfit a BRP 1/18th to get a new driver started? (Besides the 370 motor.)

Looking for good, inexpensive hardware to make the kit BRP car RTR, including cost:

Radio.
ESC.
Servos.
Batteries.
Charger.

Anything else I'm missing?

It seems that you can get everything you need to go racing for about $200-250, right? (that's new...ebay could be half that if you shop around, right?)

For radio for a newbie and good deal I would go with a Tower Hobbies here is the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWPW0&P=7

The ESC Go with a Novak Spy it has reverse while you learn and then you can lock out the reverse as you get better. here is a link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNR7&P=7

I use a hitec Hs 81 here is the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN676&P=ML

Batterys we use elite 2/3a 1500s heres the link http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?menu=76620DD738&sid=21558

for a charger there are so many of them out there this is what the newbies at our track are using DuraTrax Onyx 200 AC/DC Sport Peak Charger here is that link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTCJ8&P=ML


Now this is all to help you starting out. And yes you can do this for very little money. Do a search for stuff you can find everything you will need on this site in the forsale forums and ebay. And if there is anything I can help out with just ask!!!
Good luck!! Hope this helps

How far from Ct (say the Casinos) are you. If not all that far come on down this weekend and check out our track. You can even try out oval racing They have a BRP redy to run rental.

So, what would be recommended equipment to fully outfit a BRP 1/18th to get a new driver started? (Besides the 370 motor.)

Looking for good, inexpensive hardware to make the kit BRP car RTR, including cost:

Radio.
ESC.
Servos.
Batteries.
Charger.

Anything else I'm missing?

It seems that you can get everything you need to go racing for about $200-250, right? (that's new...ebay could be half that if you shop around, right?)

My son and I are lucky enough to race with Bud Bartos (the designer of the car)

As far as the the radio goes, although you can fit a standard receiver in the car, a micro takes up a lot less space. My son has an RS310 and I run the Spektrum 3500 and they have worked great. I pickep up a Spektrum DX3S on this site for $80.00 plus shipping

If you are going to race the 370 motor, the Tekin B1 is the only way to go. Very small and very efficient. List is over $100 but I picked up a new, still in package one on Ebay for 24.99 plus 9.00 shipping just a couple of days ago. Skip the Novak, it is too big and doesn't respond as well as the Tekin.

The best batteries I've found: TeamScream matched 1500's. I have tried other manufacturers but they do not perform as well, both in initial punch and overall strength. Bud can sell them to you directly, he ships very quickly and is a wealth of information about the car..

Chargers are a matter of opinion, but the Duratrax Ice and the Checkpoint 1030 (check the model number to be sure I'm correct) are the most used where we race. The Checkpoint looks exactly the same as the Ice but has a higher discharge rate for the packs. There are less expensive ones out there but you if you compete you will eventually migrate to something of this quality anyway. You will also need a 12 volt power supply but these are relatively inexpensive on Ebay used as well.

I also have a Tekin Mini Battery Doctor for discharging the cells to the same level individually prior to storage and charging.

The Futaba 9650 servo, while not the smallest, seems to balance out the car and centers better than the others I have tried. (This was on advice from Bud as well)

Be sure to get the diff lube from BRP. It serves both as diff lube and the dampening agent on the kingpins. This smooths out the handling of the car dramatically. The bushings need graphite infused oil to be as efficient as possible, also available from BRP.

Also, widen the hole in the top of the pod and use a couple of drops of 100 weight shock oil to dampen the pod.

I hope this helps. You're going to love this car. Very relialble, tunable and if your local group doesn't mess with the class, inexpensive and competitive. A real driver's class. Good luck!

PS: Read the "Track Tips from Tang" thread on this forum, extremely helpful to me starting up and it is specifically about BRP's.:wave:

One more thing, the kit comes with the motor,
Bob

Best servo Futab S9650 !!!

No need to open up hole in top plate it was changed some time ago 100 weight shock oil is a must have.

They covered the rest pretty well.

I have a assembled car on ebay no radio or servo ect



http://cgi.ebay.com/1-18th-BRP-SC18V2M-assembled-HPI-X-ray-Scalpel-BRP_W0QQitemZ370276932956QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_ Control_Vehicles?hash=item5636399d5c

Nice job there Bob with a lot of information !!

Good info. But I was looking at it for a beginner. Dont get scared off it can be done cheaply

Thanks K-5.

I don't want to scare anyone away either, but the biggest financial impact I faced starting out was the continual reinvestment I was making to get the proper gear when, if I had good advice to start with, I would have never had to make.

This site (and others) provide a really good opportunity to get the proper things right off, which ultimately saves you money if you stay in the hobby. And that pales in comparison to a noncompetitive car that constantly dissappoints you as the owner. BRP's provide a economically priced, robust race car. And if we can help someone starting out by directing them to prudent initial purchases I think the hobby is better for it.

As my father taught me, "Good tools only cost you once, bad tools cost you a everytime you use them.

Bill:
You have a PM.

Just wanted to say thank you for all of the recommendations. I would like to start a casual club in my area and wanted to be able to give good info when I start trying to persuade people that this is a good way to go.

Remember they also don't break :thumbsup:

Remember they also don't break :thumbsup:

That is FOR SURE!!! and the fun for cost factor is the best part.

Remember they also don't break :thumbsup:

I broke mine once.:( No, wait a minute, I was mistaken!!!:lol::tongue::D:wave:

Heck I still run the original chassis

Sank Thousands into 1/10 annually! Gave it u for 1/18 scale racing and have NEVER looked back!!
MUCH,MUCH more fun and VERY easy on the wallet!!
I have run the BRP SC-V2M chassis for 2 years without a glitch!! Now my son runs the SAME car and it is STILL going STRONG!!
And here is the best part....................

I replace the motor every month or so, change the tires every month or so and it is STILL cheaper than a value meal at McDonalds!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
(my son is easy on the tires) LOL!!

Bud Bartos the owner of BRP has ALWAYS answered ANY of my questions!! Even if I caught him relaxing on his boat!!!..LOL!!!:rolleyes:

In short, all of this pos. feedback is what lead me to liking the 1/18 scene and staying with it now indefinatly!!

Bud has machinery on his boat he isnt relaxing, he even has milling machines on his jet ski

Bud has machinery on his boat he isnt relaxing, he even has milling machines on his jet ski

Now that is some funny **** right there!! LOL!!!

......how much did he pay U to spill that??..!! :rolleyes:

Dan you are a strange dude.

But U can't knock his "creative mind" !! LOL!! :thumbsup:

Oh yes I can, I'm old.

Strange is one of the better things I've been called

Oh yes I can, I'm old.

BUT STILL YOUNG AT HEART...:thumbsup:

BUT STILL YOUNG AT HEART...:thumbsup:

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Nite guy's!

Midnight here & workin' tomorrow!