I have a Yardman 3.5 HP Edger (256-599-401) that won't start. I have confirmed that I have spark as the engine will fire briefly if you spray a little starting fluid in the carb. I have also replaced the sparkplug to no avail... I have confirmed that I am getting gas to the carb from the tank. I removed the bowl from the bottom of the carb and sprayed the heck out of the carb (inside and out).

I suspect that the carb needs further attention (rebuilt because of varnish?), but I could use a little guidance to confirm my suspicion and how to proceed. I am reasonably mechanically inclined but I have never rebuilt a carb.

Help!

Thanks,
Dennis

I will guess this is a Tecumseh engine and you have spark so here we go;
Clamp off the fuel line, remove the carb bowl, release the clamp to see if you have good fuel flow to the carb, raise the float to see that it shuts off the flow with minimal pressure, clean the junk from the bowl, clean the bowl nut, 2 holes close to the bottom and a tiny one about midway up(I usually use the wire from a twist tie), spray all holes, cracks and crevases with brake parts cleaner, reassemble and you should be good to go. If this didn't work it will be probably be necessary to rebuild the carb. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will post to help further. Refer to the photo below for reference only. Have a good one . Geo
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z120/geogrubb/tec_bowl_nut.jpg

I will guess this is a Tecumseh engine

According to the MTD site this is the engine it should have:

B&S 3.5 HP (93412-0169-01) (http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/docmanualdetails.aspx?showpdf=MS0323_B_LO.pdf)

For the most part your instructions should still work.

Thank you for the guidance.

Tomorrow night I will remove the bowl and clean the holes in the bolt. I will be honest... I didn't pay any attention to the bolt and it's holes when I removed it prior to making my original post.

On your carburetor as opposed to the one in geo's description. The bowl nut will have only one hole directly on top and two openings on either side near the bottom.

As I stated in my post.
"If I missed something one of the real mechanics will post to help further."

If I was standing in the sun and 30yr told me it was raining, I would grab an umbrella (lol). Have a good one. Geo

I'd ask him why he didn't tell me before the sun came out. Now my engines all wet. ROFLMAO

careful what you use to spray it out with. Carb cleaner will play havoc with the rubber parts of a carb like bowl gasket, needle seat, etc.

First... Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions.

The bowl nut is as 30yearTech described. All 3 holes were clear. In regards to gas flow: I do have gas to the bowl. The gas flows when the float is down and stops when it it is raised.

Bassed on the info provided so far, it appears that teh carb needs to be rebuilt. I have never rebuilt a carb. Is it difficult? Where would I obtain a rebuild kit? The local Ace Hardware where they do similar repairs?

How sensitive are the settings/positions of the 2 screws on the side of the carb. The one near the top appears to be a throttle stop, and I am assuming that the other affects the flow of gas into or through the carb.

Thanks!

First... Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions.

The bowl nut is as 30yearTech described. All 3 holes were clear. In regards to gas flow: I do have gas to the bowl. The gas flows when the float is down and stops when it it is raised.

Bassed on the info provided so far, it appears that teh carb needs to be rebuilt. I have never rebuilt a carb. Is it difficult? Where would I obtain a rebuild kit? The local Ace Hardware where they do similar repairs?

How sensitive are the settings/positions of the 2 screws on the side of the carb. The one near the top appears to be a throttle stop, and I am assuming that the other affects the flow of gas into or through the carb.

Thanks!

I don't know if ACE handles these parts or not. You should be able to find one at most any mower shop, very common part Briggs # 498260.

The screw on the top is the idle stop screw, does not affect running, just idle speed. The one on the side, would be the low speed circuit adjustment and can affect the running somewhat, it will not prevent the engine from starting and running, but if not adjusted properly, can cause the engine to run rough and or surge. Initial setting I use is 1 1/2 turns from seat (closed) position.

I'd ask him why he didn't tell me before the sun came out. Now my engines all wet. ROFLMAO


Well, it's because it really was just a drizzle...:p

that low speed circuit screw on the side that 30yr is talking about can easily be damaged if overtightened. lightly seat it then back it out 1 1/2 as 30yr noted.

I would like to thank everyone for their help - Thank You. :thumbsup:

This evening I removed the carb from the engine and sprayed the daylights out of it (top to bottom, bottom to top, left to right, right to left, inside to outside and outside to inside) and re-assembled everything. I also drained and refilled the tank with fresh gas. After spraying a little starting fluid in the carb and giving a single tug on the starter cord the engine sprang to life.

Again, thank you to everyone for your guidance. :)