I have a lot of old brass T-jet pickup shoes and many Aurora steel pick up shoes from Aurora Wild-Ones and Tuff-Ones chassis.

What are the advantages (if any) of using the steel shoes? Why did Aurora switch? Was is performance based or cost based? Again, these are all old Aurora and not new JL or AW pickup shoes.

I have quite a few of them, should I start using them or stick with the brass?

Thanks in advance for your comments here.

If what you are referring to as "steel" are a dull silver color they are silver plated copper. These are very good shoes, a bit better than the stock copper ones and considered a hop-up part. Silver is a better conductor than copper as well as being more resistant to oxidation. Silver is not as oxidation resistant as gold, but it's still better than copper. On HO slot cars, these are performance based designs.

By the way, copper is a better conductor than gold, but the oxidation resistance of gold usually more than makes up for the difference. But gold is also soft and has greater sliding friction than silver and copper.

If the shoes are shiny silver then they are probably a zinc coated copper, possibly nickel coated. Zinc is not a fabulous conductor, but it does have excellent corrosion resistance, sparking resistance, anti-welding, and low sliding friction properties. On HO slot cars, these are cost based designs.

Any plated or alloy shoe is usually a compromise intended to extract the best overall performance for an intended use. The silver coated copper shoes are a very good combination and are valued by racers.

It's not brass and steel, it's copper and silver pickup shoes. As silver is a better conductor of electricity than copper, you should get more power from the track using the silver pickups. At least, I believe that is the general theory.

Thanks to all for the correction. Since they all came off Aurora Wild-Ones and Tuff-Ones chassis then they must be the silver coated.

I appreciate the info and will start using them. Can't believe I have had so many of these (about about 13-14 pair) just sitting around and not using them.

I like to use those silver plated pick up shoes,
because they don't get as much grime on them as the bare copper if there is any arcing.
So they don't have to be cleaned as often.

You'll see what I mean.

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I have found that the silver shoes work well with the older chassis's but on the new j/l's copper works better for me. Sometimes it pays to put one copper and one silver shoe on and test. Switching them oround and finding out which works best for the chassis/motor combination. Seeing you have so many, that would be the way I would work them into the mix.
Happy tuning to ya.

Phosphor-bronze is a reddish copper-tin-phosphorus alloy. Unlike actual copper, it is hard, springy and somewhat brittle. Its hardness and good conductivity make it widely used for sliding contacts.

Nickel-silver, or "German silver," (a "white" bronze) is a copper-nickel alloy containing no actual silver. Though n-s is not as conductive as as some metals, the oxide that forms on it is not an insulator, so it requires less cleaning to maintain electrical contact. Its most familiar use is model-railroad rails and wheels, and "silver" fittings on knives, firearms, and musical instruments.

Maybe it's just my model railroad background, but I thought "copper" and "silver" slotcar pickup shoes were actually phosphor-bronze and nickel-silver, respectively. Aren't they?

-- D

I buy the silver plated shoes whenever I can. They make a noticable difference (improvement). When I get a new car, including the new Auto World's, the first thing I do is swap the stock shoes for the n.o.s. silver plated ones and change the crown gear for a hop up one (19 tooth vs 15)...and of course a fresh set of silicone tires.

What about the New old stock aurora/afx copper shoes from about 1974,the ones that are angled "like" a triangle at the toe,they come/came on the orange card bubble with the" perfect for me" guide pin.

What about the New old stock aurora/afx copper shoes from about 1974,the ones that are angled "like" a triangle at the toe,they come/came on the orange card bubble with the" perfect for me" guide pin.

You just decribed the "AFX Power steering kit" This was an performance kit for AFX (non magnatraction) cars. They are outlawed in most clubs because they are hard to find and they are considered an unfair advantage.
They will work on a T-Jet, but you must cut the spring perch nub for them to fit properly. You also need to run a very small front tire.
On a magna traction they are a dream:thumbsup:

One of the first modifications I do to every new car is to swap in the new-old-stock AFX silver plated pick-up shoes. It makes a big and noticable difference in acceleration and top speed. Kind of like the difference between a 2 barrel and 4 barrel carburetor on a car that lets more fuel flow, the silver plated shoes let more electricity flow.

speaking of steel pickups, some later Tyco/Mattel cars used them and I believe the LL T-chassis cars use stainless steel pickups. They seem to run just fine, but in order to conduct, they must have a silver plating or at least some silver in the alloy, right?