How do you get the brakes to work well and not make the car spin out? I have a Pro1 car

If someone gets loose in front of you and you tap the brakes so NOT to rear end him. but by tapping the brakes you end up spinning out.

I started 1/4 scale this season and this is one of the hardest things to get figured out.

Chuck #3

p.s. I have been told to stop using the brakes (just hit him and drive on) Not my style.

I also have the same question. I play with the radio, but the brake never seems to work the same way every race. Either too much or not enough.

Dial them out on the radio. You can dial them out enough that you only slow the car down and use one of your thumb wheels to dial in/out what you need as you need it. I guess it depends on what radio you have that this should be possible.

What radio do you have? Someone will be able to tell you exactly how to dial breaks in or out....

If you set your brakes to skid the rear tires you do two things:
1) Spin out
2) tear the teeth of your drive belt.

I set mine to where it will almost skid the tires, Almost........Here's a tip, when you hear cars crashing and bangin' around, let off the gas and look to see where they are. However, some crashes are just unavoidable.

I also have the same question. I play with the radio, but the brake never seems to work the same way every race. Either too much or not enough.

Your brake pad is still new. It needs to brake in more.

One of the guys that used to race that I know had gotten a new pro-1 found a sanding drum the same size as the clutch bell sanded it down to the right shape and made it to were it braked the way he liked if I remember correctly he was having the same to much not enough problem and he didn't want to wait for the pad to break in

I use the trim wheel on the radio. On the first practice run I use pit lane to set the brake and then as the day or weekend goes I just dial in a little as the brakes fade. I can do it with a new pad or an old one. A new pad will fade quicker than an older one that is broke in.

My radio has an ABS feature which took care the same problem . Before using that I either had too much brake or not enough .

ABS take a lot of setup time and as you go through the race the brakes change in the car and then the ABS don't have enough brake to stop the car. I used ABS for about 4 or 5 races when I first started because I ran it on dirt cars but it don't work as good on these cars. Just my 2 cents.My radio has an ABS feature which took care the same problem . Before using that I either had too much brake or not enough .

BRAKES, This is oval we don't use brakes hammer down and drive through the wreck!!!...

DD

That explains alot...

ABS take a lot of setup time and as you go through the race the brakes change in the car and then the ABS don't have enough brake to stop the car. I used ABS for about 4 or 5 races when I first started because I ran it on dirt cars but it don't work as good on these cars. Just my 2 cents.

I guess it would depend on th radio far as setup time . Took maybe 5 minutes for the Helios . I like the ABS option .

I will try a couple of things,,,I think someone needs to come up with something better.

Chuck

I make my own brake lever for my WCM car that uses a Lightening pad, I like the ABS in my radio also my cars stop straight and quick without any spinning out!!!...
I will try to find a picture to post of the lever I use...


DD

I typically will set the brake on the radio at 100% and make the car completely lock up... then I will turn the radio down to about 35 to 40% as that will just slow the car down... I have a lightning and that brake doesn't seem to fade on me throughout the race at all... and i have been known to use a good amount of brake with my driving style... Pops knows what i'm saying, he hates that I drive that way, but it works for me... :thumbsup:

LOL Me to Denny. I use a lot of brake in traffic. I had a lot of servo trouble with the ABS on the 1/4 scale but I like my adjustment at the finger tip. I typically will set the brake on the radio at 100% and make the car completely lock up... then I will turn the radio down to about 35 to 40% as that will just slow the car down... I have a lightning and that brake doesn't seem to fade on me throughout the race at all... and i have been known to use a good amount of brake with my driving style... Pops knows what i'm saying, he hates that I drive that way, but it works for me... :thumbsup:

LOL Me to Denny. I use a lot of brake in traffic. I had a lot of servo trouble with the ABS on the 1/4 scale but I like my adjustment at the finger tip.

Me too, but I use my thumb! LOL

:thumbsup:Scott,
I'm going to get me one of those radio's and try that. I watched you at the 500 and I think I could do that. I may like it better.Me too, but I use my thumb! LOL

:thumbsup:Scott,
I'm going to get me one of those radio's and try that. I watched you at the 500 and I think I could do that. I may like it better.

For real?

Chuck & Stivy
With the hard connection of the brake linkage of the Pro 1 any adjustment to the engine for the belt tension or gear change and it is a must to adjust the brake because you are either moving the motor toward or away from the servo.
What I do is monitor my brake control and make sure that I maintain a 5 foot stopping length without skidding my rear tires. I use a double set set screw collar on the brake arm for large brake arm adjustments and fine tune it with my radio. If needed I'll send pictures but it is simple to set up and maintai

I understand a little better about setting it up.

I still think that this is one step above Fred Flintstone's

Thanks Everyone,
Chuck

Watch out Chuck
I'll be hollering It's so easy a Caveman can do it!

I used to set my brakes so when I'd hit them it would stop and spin . Here lately setting them up so it would almost stop is working better, and just keep stabbing the brakes like pumping them to slow down works , something like ABS . It takes some time , but you'll find a setting that works for you .

I have changed the setup on the brakes and will give it a go this Saturday...

Thanks, Chuck

I have changed the setup on the brakes and will give it a go this Saturday...

Thanks, Chuck

Don't you mean ~ give it a stop? LOL :)

Here is another idea which I did on all my cars that help the transition form not stopping to spinning out, I got a fairly stiff spring that would fit over the cable and would fit between the end and the brake lever. It will allow you to spread out the span from slowing down to locking up. Full trigger locks up, first quarter barely slows, half brake helps set car, 3/4 brake slows fast without skidding.

Just something i've tried and it helped me and my boys.

Joey

Don't you mean ~ give it a stop? LOL :)


Good one Scott,,

Go with a stop,
Stop with a go..
same difference.

Here is another idea which I did on all my cars that help the transition form not stopping to spinning out, I got a fairly stiff spring that would fit over the cable and would fit between the end and the brake lever. It will allow you to spread out the span from slowing down to locking up. Full trigger locks up, first quarter barely slows, half brake helps set car, 3/4 brake slows fast without skidding.

Just something i've tried and it helped me and my boys.

Joey

I like this idea, Thanks, I will start my search for some springs.

Chuck #3

Chuck you might also try different links of fuel line to achieve the same thing, try using fuel line instead of a spring.

I use the car in front of me! Works every time. Lol I like the cat 5 brake arm and lightnings. The worst thing you can do is set it were you spin every time you touch the brake.one guy used a fifth scale hydrolic brake for a while really cool.

I like the spring method too.