OK...I *think* that the 13.5/1s class is supposed to be the new "stock-class" equivalent. I'm just curious as to what the tuning options are for these motors. Like with the brushed motors, you could change out the springs and brushes, get the comm trued and polished, etc. But what are the options for the 13.5 brushless? I'm all kinds of new to these motors, so any help is appreciated ;)

The easiest change is the motor's timing. Advancing it give more RPM (and more heat) - reducing it increases torque, but with a loss of rpm...

There are also Novak optional rotors that can give more torque...

Beyond that, keep it clean and well lubed...

The easiest change is the motor's timing. Advancing it give more RPM (and more heat) - reducing it increases torque, but with a loss of rpm...

There are also Novak optional rotors that can give more torque...

Beyond that, keep it clean and well lubed...

One of the reasons for the Spec BL motors is that there are really no additional tuning options---that is the point of the spec designations. To level the playing field

We do offer tuning rotors----mostly for our mod winds. Some race directors only allow the standard spec rotors to be used in spec events.

How do I advance the timing on this motor? This was the very first time I had ever run brushless this weekend, and I was gettin' KILLED on the straightaways (top end). Tried all kinds of gear in it, but just couldn't get the top end out of it like I needed to keep up with the fast cars. I was right in the middle of the field laps/time-wise all day. Went up and down with gearing and rollouts all day, trying to coax some more speed. I'm running a GTB with the SmartBoost. Motor temps - well, I didn't actually check 'em, but, the motor was cool enough all day that I could grab it with my hand and not get burnt. Lap times came down by almost half a second through three rounds of qualifying and the main.

Just need to get that last little bit out of it ;)

If you are looking at the top of the motor you will see 3 screws in the black plastic end. Loosen those and turn the timing ring to the left...counter clockwise. You may need to use a flat head screwdriver.

Also you will need to be a lot higher in gear than your friends with LRP and Tekin speedos. the GTB has no timing, so you will need to wind the gear to it. Once you get the car better too it will allow you to add more gear to it and not heat it up. keep it under 160 degrees!

The GTB does add timing to the motor, about 5 to 9 degrees........around 500 to 800 rpm compared to a 0 timed RS ESC..........Dynos are great tuning tools.........

Jimmy with the 13.5 1c at Stricklands you need 3.80-4.00 RO with the GTB, the 1 cell batts dont put very much heat in the motors but keep an eye on it during the day when the track is really hot.
The car needs to be really free in the corners to keep the speed up or you'll get killed on the straights. Harder RR and some rear steer can really help.
I run BSRs, if thats what your on try a Pink Lf team Purple Rf Pink Lr and a Double Pink Rr.

Oh yeah Crank the timing ALL THE WAY!!!

UPDATE,
I hear they have shortened the track size since I ran there so keep that in mind with my RO numbers.

Jimmy, the suggestion about the tuning rotor is a good one, but here in FL that would be illegal. AS flash said, lots of gear with the orange esc,s

How do I advance the timing on this motor? This was the very first time I had ever run brushless this weekend, and I was gettin' KILLED on the straightaways (top end).
Just need to get that last little bit out of it ;)

If that is the motor, I think you are running, the timing is advanced...
Your problem is more than likely NOT motor related.
When it appears that guys are "killing" you in the straights, it is 99% of
the time because they are launching out of the corner a bit better..
With one cell, you really need to have CORNER speed, to have STRAIGHT speed..
I saw your setup someplace else, and you had 3 pinks (I think????)
You may want to try a dbl.pink RR..
Also you need to REALLY make sure that you have no unnecessary drag.
Make sure your bearings are perfect, and make sure your toe is dead on.
Minimize your wobbly stuff in the front end..
Try no rear steer (if you are using it). Make sure you aren't turning the
wheel too much...
Drag/friction is your killer with low power racing especially!!!

Jimmy you have to get rid of that hop coming out of the turns. Loosen the car up that's where you are losing your speed.

.....

What is the maximum amount of timing a Novak motor can be adjusted to? I thought I remember reading 12 degrees.

Josh

The Ballistic series' motors have a much wider range of timing options. While there is no physical stop preventing you from adding more timing, the timing label itself only has delineations going so high or so low. We recommend using timing settings only within the range suggested by the label.

I have a question it is about a 13.5 Motor but its a problem that may be with it. When I throttle the motor slightly i get a squeel sound and as I increase the throttle it will go away (or at least it seems) or I get a noise same as A bad spur gear at times. when theres no pinion on the motor the noise is not there or its not noticable. My complete axle assembly bearings, etc on car are free and smooth. I have taken the Motor apart and checked both bearings they are Nice and free and the motor does not even appear to show any type of wear. Is there a way to take off more than the rotor and endbells now that I have lost a tiny allen head do magnifaction

I have a question it is about a 13.5 Motor but its a problem that may be with it. When I throttle the motor slightly i get a squeel sound and as I increase the throttle it will go away (or at least it seems) or I get a noise same as A bad spur gear at times. when theres no pinion on the motor the noise is not there or its not noticable. My complete axle assembly bearings, etc on car are free and smooth. I have taken the Motor apart and checked both bearings they are Nice and free and the motor does not even appear to show any type of wear. Is there a way to take off more than the rotor and endbells now that I have lost a tiny allen head do magnifaction

Sounds like a trunk monkey hair in the motor issue.

I had a similiar problem with my dirt truck with a 17.5 and I ran it till the squel was present all the time and the truck wouldn't move anymore. I took the motor apart to find that the barrel part of the rotor came apart from the shaft. Something you might want to check.

I had a similiar problem with my dirt truck with a 17.5 and I ran it till the squel was present all the time and the truck wouldn't move anymore. I took the motor apart to find that the barrel part of the rotor came apart from the shaft. Something you might want to check.


My rotor looks flawless I think its inside the motor most like the core windings

who can i send my 13.5 novak to for tuning?

who can i send my 13.5 novak to for tuning?

Me! I'll tune it for hmmm $50. lol

PAT now thats funny i wil do it for 40.00 ... There is not tuning for these spec motors .Adjust the timing to full for most applacations and check tmep after 2 minutes to make sure the gear is right SRM

On another forum, Steve said that the Velociti and SSPro motors (as well as the new Ballistics) are all factory set to 30 degrees timing. I posted our new, long Ballistic Timing technical update on the Novak support thread:

Novak Ballistic Timing Tech Update (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=2949311&postcount=583)

The new Ballistics have 360degrees of timing, but we advise setting timing according to the guidelines.

Novak Ballistic Timing Tech Update (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=2949311&postcount=583)

The new Ballistics have 360degrees of timing, but we advise setting timing according to the guidelines.

Now THAT'S a bunch of timing!!! :thumbsup:

Now THAT'S a bunch of timing!!! :thumbsup:

or very little!

[quote=pmsimkins;2951394]or very little![/quote

True. :cool: