Hi Folks,Has anyone picked up the New Smaller Seaview model yet?Guy Schlicter.

It's close...very very close...

Have they even left China? If not, it may be September before they hit stores.

Due to ship at the end of July- possibly as late as first week of August -
Probably in stores -early Sept.

Dave

Thanks for the update, Dave. Coincidentally, I was wondering the same thing during my commute this morning.

I wonder if they will encounter any giant nuclear irradiated sea monsters or space aliens during the voyage over from China?

Huzz;)

You can count on it! The ocean is no place for a futuristic atomic submarine, especially one at 350th scale.

I wonder if they will encounter any giant nuclear irradiated sea monsters or space aliens during the voyage over from China?

Huzz;)

Ar 1/350 scale...everything in the ocean will seem "giant"!:rolleyes:

Ya know, a 12" action figure turned into a grabby seaweed monster would make a great stand for this.

Drew?

This scale Seaview lends itself nicely to creative stands and dioramas. One idea: I have a 1/350 Titanic that could be converted to a "final-resting place" bash/base with the small hovering Seaview illuminating it with the nose light.

Are there any photos of the new smaller kit?

Are there any photos of the new smaller kit?

Here ya go:

Oooooooo thats pretty cool. Thaks!

Came across this photo---not sure if it's authentic (not P shopped)...
Stand by while I post 2 or more on here to be able to show link..

Second post

In other shots looked like a 1/128 kit with a different base photo shopped in.
Anyone have better, real test shots? This one caught my attention:

http://www.platz-hobby.com/images/moe808.jpg

link to photo:
http://www.platz-hobby.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1831&language=en

That is an actual test shot we sent to them for the show. Here's another pic of it.

That is an actual test shot we sent to them for the show. Here's another pic of it.

Looks great! Can't wait.

Indeed, wonderful & can't wait.
John

It's a sweet kit. After handling the 1:128 so much my first reaction on seeing the 1:350 "in the flesh" was "it's so cute!".

Test fitting parts and looking things over yielded a very different reaction: this is GREAT! A true, nicely detailed piece of work.

In other shots looked like a 1/128 kit with a different base photo shopped in.
Anyone have better, real test shots? This one caught my attention:

http://www.platz-hobby.com/images/moe808.jpg

link to photo:
http://www.platz-hobby.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1831&language=en

Can anyone tell me what that color is?

Gray.

John, I thought it was grey myself.... ;)

Way cool! I hope that someday an 8-window "movie" version is released by Moebius. By that, I'm referring to an "accurate" version, not an "Aurora" version. ;)

Gray.

Looks like sand brown and I'm not color blind. What shade of gray? I've asked this question of Moebius before and it must be a state secret because they never answer.

I found that the plastic shade is closest to "Imperial Japanese Navy Sea Grey". However, because you really should primer it before painting it, the color of the molded plastic is really a moot point.
I'd recommend that you buy the kit, but before leaving the store, open the box and pull out the instruction sheet. On the last page there should be a painting guide that will let you know what colors and types of paints to get.
Don't forget to get a grey enamel primer spray paint, a tube of putty and a set of sand paper.
Let us know how yours turns out, OK?

Looks like sand brown and I'm not color blind. What shade of gray? I've asked this question of Moebius before and it must be a state secret because they never answer.

I think the brownish hue is caused by the ambient room lighting and the reflection from surrounding table items, but it is indeed a flat gray finish. look forward to seeing yours when complete. Thanks

Mike:wave:

Looks like sand brown and I'm not color blind. What shade of gray? I've asked this question of Moebius before and it must be a state secret because they never answer.

The person to ask would be the person that painted it. It didn't come from us this way, so we have no way of knowing what was used for it. So many shades of gray, it's near impossible to know without talking to the builder.

I painted my big Seaview primer gray. it shows different shades in different light...this is a pic at a trade show with god knows what kind of lighting. The ship should be a primer gray topside with a white underside
let's not turn this into the same kind of cluster frick the J2 thread has become...

Steve

Why does it even matter?????? colors in photos are often screwed up and monitors rarely produce true colors.
It should be light gray
If that's the first test shot I built, and it may very well be....(I don't remember if we sent the build up to Platz or if we sent them an un-built test shot)........ If it's the one I did then it is Light Ghost gray with a white bottom...

Dave

Why does it even matter??????

:freak:

Hello and welcome to the world of plastic modeling, where we sometimes try to paint things the right color.

;)

Ok, this is where I go nuts.
Right color? John go lay down. What color of grey was evading you?

Lets' get Nelson to issue a federal standard color for a ship that was never built.

Yes Welcome to the world of plastic modeling and yes WE DO try to paint something the RIGHT color sometimes -

Asking what color a display model in a crappy digital picture probably taken under flourescent lighthing really is seems to me to be a genuine waste of time!

As I said, if I built it then it is LIGHT GHOST GRAY! Odds are pretty good that it is the first test shot that I built and painted!
Seems to me that I answered the question

WHAT MORE DO YOU WANT!

Dave

Yes Welcome to the world of plastic modeling and yes WE DO try to paint something the RIGHT color sometimes -

Asking what color a display model in a crappy digital picture probably taken under flourescent lighthing really is seems to me to be a genuine waste of time!

As I said, if I built it then it is LIGHT GHOST GRAY! Odds are pretty good that it is the first test shot that I built and painted!
Seems to me that I answered the question

WHAT MORE DO YOU WANT!

Dave

He wants to know the brand of paint, the production batch number, the brand of airbrush used (if used), how long did you shake the can, did you soak the can in warm water first, and did you do any shading, any feathering of edges, any detail painting, and such like.

THEN what was the brand of bulb at the Tokyo Hobby trade show and the professional classification of the color temp of same?

Sheesh, Dave, it's such an EASY question! :devil:

:lol:....

Yes Welcome to the world of plastic modeling and yes WE DO try to paint something the RIGHT color sometimes -

Asking what color a display model in a crappy digital picture probably taken under flourescent lighthing really is seems to me to be a genuine waste of time!

As I said, if I built it then it is LIGHT GHOST GRAY! Odds are pretty good that it is the first test shot that I built and painted!
Seems to me that I answered the question

WHAT MORE DO YOU WANT!

Dave

I'll have BLT, hold the mayo, with fries and a Dr. Pepper.

He wants to know the brand of paint, the production batch number, the brand of airbrush used (if used), how long did you shake the can, did you soak the can in warm water first, and did you do any shading, any feathering of edges, any detail painting, and such like.

THEN what was the brand of bulb at the Tokyo Hobby trade show and the professional classification of the color temp of same?Also, what type of camera was used to take the picture, was it digital or film, what was the lens focal length, the f-stop, the exposure time, and what did the photographer have for lunch that day?

The fact is that photography of gray and silver "colors" can be very tricky. I remember this scenario very well when I had my J2 prototype shot back in '97. The guy who did the shoot was a personal friend who was also a police officer and forensics photographer, and he knew what he was doing. Even so, indoor photography in incandescent light always produced a significant "yellowing" effect, and florescent light produced a corresponding green tint.

Generating true color in the absence of involving a formal studio was possible only with a flash or photographing outdoors, neither of which were practical at the time for different reasons. His final solution was to use a blue filter, but even then, the photos required the maximum degree of adjustment that then conventional development allowed. These are the photos that are still up on Cult to this day. Digital cameras lessen these effects today, but they can still be a factor.

Every type of film has it's own individual response to certain wavelengths and within that, the emulsions will vary from roll to roll which is why photographers would order film in batches with the same emulsion number. With digital one also has a large group of variables to deal with any one of which will change the outcome of how the photo appears to an individual on their monitor. If it is critical to the subject, always calibrate everything by photographing a standard color chart with the same lighting as the model and adjusting the cameras white balance, the monitor, and the printer to get the most reliable results. Of course the settings of someones monitor at the other end of the internet is a variable that is pretty hard to plan for.

Film???? Yes different film emulsions respond to light differently and it's is possible to makes some compensation for color shift in processing with some films... However film cameras are rapidly going the way of the steam locomotive and the pay telephone..

Who uses film these days?...With the new high megapixel SLR cameras even the pros are abandoning film and switching to 100% digital....With these 20-plus megapixel cameras you can shoot such high resolution that there is no longer any visible advantage to using film no matter how large your final image will be.
The picture is probably digital -
However the same color drift occurs in digital photography as it does in Film photography. It appears that the digital camera sees incandecent light as warm - or yellow light thus the color shift to tan for gray colored objects under incandecent light.
My suspicion is that a digital camera pocessor is callibrated for true color in daylight - or natural light.
I have a new and very sophisticated digital SLR. Whenever I photograph Gray items in incandecent light I get a tan color not gray... If I set the camera to flash it helps but the color is still too brownish.
In daylight gray comes out true gray not brown... so the camera sees true colors in natural light at it's default settings.
If I correct the images in my computer afterward I can adjust brightness in the images and finally end up with a reasonable representation og the actual gray color for pics taken under incandecent light...
I'm sure that somewhere buried deep in the pages of the instruction book for my camera there is some helpful information for changing camera settings to produce true color in incandecent light...
Some day I may even get around to hunting that information down and figure out how to apply it...
Untril then I'll fix the pix in the computer afterward if I think it's necessary...

Dave

Two year ago I had to shoot some indoor stuff under varying light conditions. I brought in studio lighting (tungsten bulbs) for where it was usable, and shot with both film and digital. Some tungsten, some flourescent, a little daylight in spots. You wouldn't believe the difference. And everyone seems to have left out the developing process, if you use film. Can work the same as digitally altering tones, contrasts and colors. Try to get a reprint to match from lab to lab. If the calibration is slightly off....

Actually I still shoot some film for some large format shots. The Nikon D3 works great for everything else now but with prices at 8k for the 24.5 megapixel D3x and 15k and up for digital backs for Hasselblads it will be a little longer before I totally replace film for some fine arts shots! But yes, film discussions are not really relative to most photographers anymore. But setting the color balance by hand or adjusting your cameras ccd bias in the menu or on photoshop are examples of the same type of the "chain" of variables that will effect the final color. (with of course the human eye and brain being the most difficult to compensate for!) lol

Dave, I once asked in another thread if by chance the new 1/350 kit came with the option of building the 8 window movie version of the kit. You answered cryptically "You never know". With all the new pictures and comments about the kit, I 'm thinking I'm going to be finding out that the 8 window option doesn't exist. Gosh darn it. Oh, I'm sorry for the harsh language, Dave. :)

I think Dave is due for a long vacation. Here he is in a more quiet moment:

Dave, I once asked in another thread if by chance the new 1/350 kit came with the option of building the 8 window movie version of the kit. You answered cryptically "You never know". With all the new pictures and comments about the kit, I 'm thinking I'm going to be finding out that the 8 window option doesn't exist. Gosh darn it. Oh, I'm sorry for the harsh language, Dave. :)

No chance of an 8 window conversion, as it's a completely different ship for the most part. With a need for a completely different upper hull, and a new lower front hull, it would be basically two kits in the box. Maybe at some point we'll do a smaller 8 window, but not for a while.

I'm not the one in need of a straight jacket!
I'm not so sure about some other inmates of this asylum though!

Dave

I'm not crazy, and neither am I.

I painted my large RC Seaview with primer grey and white under, with a bright Canadian flag in LED
:thumbsup:
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4787/snowflake003.jpg (http://img134.imageshack.us/i/snowflake003.jpg/)

...a bright Canadian flag in LED...
Had me fooled. I thought it was the "Crew Possessed by Aliens Again" idiot light. ;)

It sparkles on and off, got it at the dollar store. It uses a magnet to stick to the superstructure. Pretty neat at night. The grey primer from Walleyworld looks awsome.