We are new to this ho slot car system and are looking to do some mods to our tracks and need some advice and info if someone could please help us.

We are assembling new type AFX track with a 4 lane track mate timing /finish line system.

#1. Other than the instructions and track mate web site info does anyone have any more advice or experience in some do's and do not's when assembling the Trackmate finish line system.

#2. We have access to some power supplies and would like to wire the system for aftermarket power supplies and driver stations.

We have tempted to do some soldering on bottom side of the rails of the track so we can rid of the factory terminal tracks.

We have tried the wet towel under the track to keep from melting the plastic of the track but cannot get good solder joints to stick to the rails.

Any advice would be appreciated.

#3. Also are the ho scale and 1/32 scale positive/ neg rails on the same sides in direction of travel?

Seems I read somewhere that the 2 scales are opposites on positive and negative rails.


Thanks if you can help!

First I would suggest searching this forum for topics like "soldering", "wiring", etc.

There is a method (and I forget the website) where you drill holes on opposite sides of the rail and then feed a wire up and around the rail, putting a small notch in the rail to keep the surface smooth. I think it's in the Vargo Speedway site.

I need to redo my soldered terminal tracks because I used the wrong flux and now those tracks are corroding quickly (see thread in this forum). I'm going to try removing some of the plastic from the underside of the rail to get more rail exposed before soldering. This should not be noticeable from the topside of the track.

I may also try soldering a piece of rail (taken from another piece of scrap track) to the underside of each rail and then soldering my wires to that. There is a larger surface to solder when you put rails in a "T" shape.

Joe

Get yourself a 9V "transistor radio" (or smoke detector) battery to help determine the rail polarity. The smaller terminal on the battery is the positive terminal. When the driver's side pickup on an out of the box slot car is connected to the positive battery terminal the car will move forward.

Rails are not easy to solder. To get a good joint you need to pull out all of the tricks from your secret soldering strategy book.

1) Cleanliness is next to Godliness. To get metal clean you need to use isopropyl alcohol to clean every spec of dirt and grease from all the surfaces to be soldered. Solder will never adhere to a metal that has a film of oil, dirt, or grease on it. Never.

2) Flux is your Friend. Flux is the matchmaker that brings two metals together in a lasting bond of soldery goodness. If it's electrical, use rosin core flux. Acid flux is for mechanical and plumbing joints. Flux core inside the solder is nice, but if you are looking for a successful soldering experience, you'd better bring some real flux to the party.

3) Tinning is Timely. Any clean metal, coated with flux, is an open invitation to solder acceptance. But you're dealing with two metallic partygoers looking to hit it off on the very first date. A mosh pit of flux, solder, and bare wires all brought together at the same time under intense heat is intriguing, but a little pre-juicing can work wonders. Before trying to join two bare metal conductors, use some flux and solder to coat each conductor individually with a nice layer of solder. When the two partygoers are both primed with fresh solder, the next steps in the relationship are preordained.

4) Dirty Tips Sink Sink Ships. Take a look at your soldering iron. A globby, blobby, dull looking tip on your soldering iron is disappointing at best, dysfunctional at worst. If you want your soldering job to shine, the tip on your soldering iron had better pass muster. Cue the damp sponge, flux, and solder. Heat the iron, slather with flux, coat with solder, and wipe excess solder off the tip until it has a nice coating of solder.

5) Big Targets are Easier to Hit. Soldering to the bottom of the rail is a sniper's challenge, groundhog at 300 yards with a 22-250 with iron sites. Bambi's mom at 30 yards with a 12 gauge load of buckshot - much easier pickin's. Grab the 12 gauge, aka Dremel, and drill a 1/8" or so hole right up next to the rail. Rat tail file off any residual plastic from the rail side to give yourself a nice big shiny target for solder attachment. Clean it, flux it, tin it, make it a happy place for finding a solder soul mate.

6) Synchronicity of Solder Solidarity. Here you are, tinned wire, tinned rail, tinned clean tip on your iron ... all it takes at this point is a little more flux at the joint, a thin sliver of rosin core solder slipped into the heated joint where all things tinned come together, enough heat to bring the big rail to the solder's melting point, 40 watts of motivation will do. Once all the solder primed surfaces succumb to the influence of the heat, the union takes place and the joining is complete. Let it cool naturally. Your job is done.

It's been my experience, the hotter the iron the better.
You don't want it so hot that the solder evaporates when you touch it,
but some where just below that is good.
Of course, you want to clean and tin both surfaces before getting them near each other.
The way I did mine was just hitting the spots already exposed, no cutting, no mods.
The trick is to do it fast, hot iron, hot rail, touch wire and hold. Snap, it's done.
It may take some practice. You may try it on some 9" turns first.
IF you have any extra of those.
The worst thing is to be afraid of melting the plastic, it's hot, and will get soft.
The thing is to minimize the amount of time its exposed to heat.
A cool iron is your worst nightmare.

Rich

LOTS of good soldering tips!
What I've done on just about all of the tracks that I've built is to use the terminal track pieces.....with the "box"' that sticks out CUT OFF flush with the edge of the track. Then I've carefully drilled a small hole in what's left of the copper strips that are already attached to the rails, loop my wire through and twist it back to itself. Then some careful soldering to wrap it all up. Easier than trying to hit that small rail.......but drilling along the sides of the rail and looping the wire around the rail ( with a notch in it) is what I've done when building some short "dead strips" for counters. Works good too. I also use the Hot Glue gun to glue the wires to the underside of the track at some location just for added strength if the wires should accidentally get tugged or something. ;)

Get yourself a 9V "transistor radio" (or smoke detector) battery to help determine the rail polarity. The smaller terminal on the battery is the positive terminal. When the driver's side pickup on an out of the box slot car is connected to the positive battery terminal the car will move forward.

Rails are not easy to solder. To get a good joint you need to pull out all of the tricks from your secret soldering strategy book.

1) Cleanliness is next to Godliness. To get metal clean you need to use isopropyl alcohol to clean every spec of dirt and grease from all the surfaces to be soldered. Solder will never adhere to a metal that has a film of oil, dirt, or grease on it. Never.

2) Flux is your Friend. Flux is the matchmaker that brings two metals together in a lasting bond of soldery goodness. If it's electrical, use rosin core flux. Acid flux is for mechanical and plumbing joints. Flux core inside the solder is nice, but if you are looking for a successful soldering experience, you'd better bring some real flux to the party.

3) Tinning is Timely. Any clean metal, coated with flux, is an open invitation to solder acceptance. But you're dealing with two metallic partygoers looking to hit it off on the very first date. A mosh pit of flux, solder, and bare wires all brought together at the same time under intense heat is intriguing, but a little pre-juicing can work wonders. Before trying to join two bare metal conductors, use some flux and solder to coat each conductor individually with a nice layer of solder. When the two partygoers are both primed with fresh solder, the next steps in the relationship are preordained.

4) Dirty Tips Sink Sink Ships. Take a look at your soldering iron. A globby, blobby, dull looking tip on your soldering iron is disappointing at best, dysfunctional at worst. If you want your soldering job to shine, the tip on your soldering iron had better pass muster. Cue the damp sponge, flux, and solder. Heat the iron, slather with flux, coat with solder, and wipe excess solder off the tip until it has a nice coating of solder.

5) Big Targets are Easier to Hit. Soldering to the bottom of the rail is a sniper's challenge, groundhog at 300 yards with a 22-250 with iron sites. Bambi's mom at 30 yards with a 12 gauge load of buckshot - much easier pickin's. Grab the 12 gauge, aka Dremel, and drill a 1/8" or so hole right up next to the rail. Rat tail file off any residual plastic from the rail side to give yourself a nice big shiny target for solder attachment. Clean it, flux it, tin it, make it a happy place for finding a solder soul mate.

6) Synchronicity of Solder Solidarity. Here you are, tinned wire, tinned rail, tinned clean tip on your iron ... all it takes at this point is a little more flux at the joint, a thin sliver of rosin core solder slipped into the heated joint where all things tinned come together, enough heat to bring the big rail to the solder's melting point, 40 watts of motivation will do. Once all the solder primed surfaces succumb to the influence of the heat, the union takes place and the joining is complete. Let it cool naturally. Your job is done.

Sticky? All in favor?

Aye!

I hafta agree, Bill. Looks like a track building sticky.

I agree too!! Almost reads like a romance novel, but to the point, well versed and 100% accurate!!

What I've done on just about all of the tracks that I've built is to use the terminal track pieces.....with the "box"' that sticks out CUT OFF flush with the edge of the track.

I was going to do this until I took a close look at the underside of a Tyco/Mattel terminal track. I really can't tell how they attached the metal strips to the rail. They're not soldered. It looks like they are just smashed together. It also doesn't take a whole lot of force to seperate them.

I just didn't consider the way they are joined to be something on which I wanted to rely.

Joe

I was going to do this until I took a close look at the underside of a Tyco/Mattel terminal track. I really can't tell how they attached the metal strips to the rail. They're not soldered. It looks like they are just smashed together. It also doesn't take a whole lot of force to seperate them.

I just didn't consider the way they are joined to be something on which I wanted to rely.

Joe

There are no soldered joints on walkers glen.....I converted the terminal tracks to power taps that accept a female spade connector....

The blades are spot welded to the rails....they can be bent but one needs to take care not to break the factory weld....

My gallery at hobbytalk has some pics...

I converted the terminal tracks to power taps that accept a female spade connector....


I've done this too. You have to squeeze the spade connectors a little with pliers to make them snug, but it all works pretty well...

--rick

I've done this too. You have to squeeze the spade connectors a little with pliers to make them snug, but it all works pretty well...

--rick

And it comes apart when you end up having to move the track:thumbsup: