"Get Your Kicks On Route 66"

I came up with some Route 66 Customs graphics about 3 years ago and made some GTO's, Dairy Delivery's and VW Vans.
Just the words "Route 66" brings up visions of Automobiles and Americana at it's best.
The open road!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well you've seen the House Of Kolor Jada Oil Tanker, it went to the Execs at HOK.

Recently I posted the AutoFest 2009 Jada Oil Tanker, it's going out to the AutoFest ACCWC Charity.

Now for a dramatic change in colors.
My Route 66 Jada Oil Tanker in Green, Candy Pagan Gold and Black.

When the Jada Oil Tanker is disassembled and the roof apparatus is removed, a very prominent depression is left down the length of the roof.
Designing this Tanker as a Custom Van instead of a work truck I chose to fill in this hole in the roof using JB Weld.
A perpendicular line running across the roof is also filled in for a smooth overall appearance.

Factory Headlamps are removed and their mounting holes are also filled with JB Weld.
Tape is used inside the body behind the roof hole and the Headlight holes to keep the JB Weld from dripping through.
I bake the casting in one of my Fact-O-Bake Ovens for a few hours and then begin the sanding .
Sanding for something like this must be done with blocks.
You want a smooth even surface when finished.
I use 2" x 4" pieces of 1/4" thick Plexiglass and start with 220 grit.

When I'm pleased with the sanding job and have finished it with some fine red putty it goes on to Priming.

After Priming,
Fenders are shot with LimeTime Pearl, Intercoat Cleared and then taped.
Sides are shot Zenith Gold, Intercoat Cleared and taped.
Hood and front of Cab roof is shot the same LimeTime Pearl, InterCoat Cleared and then taped.
Shell is shot Black, InterCoat cleared and then taped.
Tape is removed everywhere except the Shell, Windshield trim is applied in Chrome, and the body is shot Candy Pagan Gold with Aztec Gold Pearl Powder.
Windshield Trim turns to Gold with the use of the Candy Pagan Gold.
Shell tape is removed,
Decals, Rhinestone Headlights and Taillights, and 1/64" Gold Trim Tape (separating Cab from Shell) are applied and the whole body is shot with House Of Kolor Urethane clear with Brilliant Gold Pearl Powder.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0013.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Route%2066/PICT0014.jpg

All Products Used Are Exclusively House Of Kolor, Of Course!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clear InkJet Decal Paper from Papilio.com

In the Ovens right now,
Route 66 Divco, Jada Silverado PU, and Jada COE Box Truck all in matching colors.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very nice!

George :cool:

Thanks George,
Got one coming up in Red, Gold and Black,

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Web%20Sigs/SigWebcopy.jpg

:) That is cool I like the headlight change. I have to drive route 66 everyday just to go to town!

At a loss for words... again. I said it before, I would love to just sit in the same room and watch you do this! Nice touch on the roof lights!

Stunning!

:thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

That sure turned out sweet, Pat. You mentioned a fine red putty you used prior to priming. I've heard of people using putty before, but have never used it myself. Would you care to elaborate on the process and the name of the product you use. Thanks. And again great job.

That sure turned out sweet, Pat. You mentioned a fine red putty you used prior to priming. I've heard of people using putty before, but have never used it myself. Would you care to elaborate on the process and the name of the product you use. Thanks. And again great job.

Absolutely Gray,
I think any technique should be shared with others, and I try to share all of mine.
I'm in the middle of ClearCoating a bunch of cars and will get back to your reply as quick as I can.

Thanks for the good words Podnah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Diggin' those stripes Pat! :thumbsup: Another winner!

That sure turned out sweet, Pat. You mentioned a fine red putty you used prior to priming. I've heard of people using putty before, but have never used it myself. Would you care to elaborate on the process and the name of the product you use. Thanks. And again great job.

Hey Gray, Thanks,

About filler products.

For these particular Oil Tankers I'm working on I have used regular JB Weld to fill in the large recess in the roof, and the narrow recessed line across the cab separating the cab from the shell,
Regular JB is only about $4 and it's easy to mix and use.
It's drawbacks are it takes a full day to cure and it's very fluid like and will run.
I let it sit for an hour after mixing it before I apply it.
JB Kwik dries much faster and if baked, like in my Fact-O-Bake Ovens, can be worked with in 2 hours.

Here's the raw casting showing the places I fill including the Headlight holes and Spotlight holes in front of the Windshield.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Jada%20Oil%20Tanker/PICT0009.jpg

The filled casting is then hit with a coarse file (JB is hard as nails), then block sanded starting with 220 and then going to 400 and then a wet 600.
JB has a tendency to leave some tiny air holes in the finish.
So,
The Red Spot Putty I mentioned is by Bondo and called Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, comes in a medium sized Black, Red and White tube.
It's a fine filler finishing putty available at any Auto Store or WalMart.

After you've wet sanded the JB with some wet 600 and it looks pretty good, when dry glaze it over with a very thin layer of Spot Putty.
A hard straight edge of anything can be used to trowel it flat and remove excess.
Allow to dry (or bake it as I do) and again hit it with wet 600.
Fill sand, fill sand, until you are satisified then Prime.

Body prep is everything.
Tiny pits in your body work will show up through Primer and after several layers of paint.
It's best to get it right before Priming.

The JB Weld and Spot Putty route is the cheap way to go.

The best all around filler and adhesive Putty I use is called MilliPut Fine White.

http://www.milliput.com/home.htm

Found in good HobbyShops, MicroMark.com, or online.

While MilliPut looks expensive the stuff will last you for years.
A little goes a long way.
I use it for body mods, extensions and add ons.
Its adhesive qualities are only surpassed by its nature to dry as hard and fine as porcelain.
A two part Epoxy Putty you can wet it to mold it like clay.
I keep mine in the Refrigerator instead of outside in my Shop.

You can also use the Bondo Spot Putty as a fine filler with the MilliPut White.

Hope this helps,
Ask away if you need more info.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Thanks for the tips Pat :thumbsup: I'm quite familiar with JB, but as a fine filler or for fine line sculpting I have always found it as you put it "as hard as nails" to properly sculpt. The GTO I'm working on right now was sculpted purely with JB since I couldn't use the disgarded pieces from the front section (incorect taper). All the raised reliefs at the rear had to be filled and scuplted and I gotta tell you it was sheer madness. I have also noticed that JB can have a real problem at times feathering properly. I was at the hobby shop yesterday and I picked up some stuff called Squadron MMD White Putty. I can't say how well it works on diecast metal. I'll give a try at some time. I mainly needed it for sculpting on styrene. I'll pick up some of that Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty later today. As a side note while at the hobby shop I also picked up some stuff called "ELO Easy Lift Off" by Testors since I needed to get back down to bare metal to do some more work on the car without destroying the work I have already done. I have to say the stuff works great stipping paint off diecasts that have been JB'd since it safe to use on most plastics. It's a little expensive at 11 dollars for an 8oz can and it can take more than one application, but it is far safer than Pine-Sol witch can soften and expand most resins including JB quick weld and Bondo so in my opinion it's well worth the price.

Interesting Gray,
The paint I use is a Urethane Enamel Automitive by HOK and I've yet to find anything besides KleanStrip AirCraft Remover that will cut through it.
Meaning, If I am working on a Custom that has body mods, then it's back to square one if I were to make a mistake.

Also,
Since you mentioned a piece of yours that had sculpted portions,
Here's a Custom I called Alien for its obvious likeness to the creature in the Movie.
This piece was built up using good modeling clay from Texas Art Supply, baked hard and then finished out with Milliput Fine White Putty followed by Bondo Glazing Putty.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/PICT0019a.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/PICT0018.jpg

Once I used Super Glue mixed with powdered Zamac collected from using a Cutting Wheel for filling in fine recessed lines.

You're correct about JB Weld not feathering so well.
Right next JB Weld in the Automotive Dept. is a product called QuikSteel.
This is another terrific sculpting material that is extremely durable.
It will wet sand to a glassy smoothness like fine porcelain.

Here's a graft I made using QuikSteel,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/PICT0013.jpg

And a raised Hood made using QuikSteel,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/PICT0266.jpg

JB Kwik can be molded just like QuikSteel if you will wait aobut 2 minutes while it begins to cure.
It's adhesive properties are best immediately after mixing it.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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That is one super cool bus Pat :thumbsup: Considering the automotive paint that you use and that it's baked on I can see how it would be mighty tough to remove. However there is another product I have been tempted to try called Chameleon http://www.chameleonproductsonline.com/ It's a little more expensive for the jell formula that is specificly designed to be used on resins, but most people in the modeling comunity seem to really like it. I tried the Bondo Glazing on my GTO http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=260741 and it seems to work really well. It is far finer than JB and feathers out beautifully. I just have to use a far finer sandpaper and remember to always use a far lighter touch when sanding. My only complaint with it is that it sets so quik that you have very little time to apply. Is there anyway to retard the seting time to give a person a little more time to work? As an experiment I tried some MMD white putty on a scrap car and though it works great on plastic I would rate it's adhesive qualities on metal as being poor. I'll be sure to pick up some QuikSteel the next time I'm out for supplies. And thanks again for all the tips. I just hope that someday I can sculpt and finish as well as you.

Wow those are great!:eek: Ive only seen your promo work and light mods! I really like the panel truck.

Thanks James,
I've got some more pics of body mods I'll post up

Gray,
QUOTE--
Is there anyway to retard the setting time to give a person a little more time to work?

The answer is Yes,
Puttys, and JB can be mixed with Lacquer Thinner to turn them from a paste into a liquid.
I came upon this procedure just by experimentation when I wanted a very thin glaze for filling fine scratches.
Just use drops of Lacquer Thinner as the mixture will get thin quickly.
The mixed liquid can be brushed on with a small Testors paintbrush.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/BulletProofWebcopy.jpg