Here's the 5 i received from Novak,checked on SM2 with fresh 9v duracell
-1340/1316
-1335/1298
-1325/1311
-1306/1266
-1295/1280

I sent Novak a few questions,but looking at the above which are considered graded

Mixed results here:
One was good 1340/1290
other...not so good:1240/1220

I know they need to be 1300+ on THEIR meter when they leave, but that's quite a spread.

dk

Mixed results here:
One was good 1340/1290
other...not so good:1240/1220

I know they need to be 1300+ on THEIR meter when they leave, but that's quite a spread.

dk

Forward your results to steve@teamnovak.com

He is in charge of the graded rotor feedback

Forward your results to steve@teamnovak.com

He is in charge of the graded rotor feedback

He emailed me late this morning advising that I have the option to fill out a warranty service card and return the "unhappy" rotor.
I was merely adding my experience relative to the OP's thread topic....unless that advice was a blanket statement towards the previous (and all future) members who post.


dk

He emailed me late this morning advising that I have the option to fill out a warranty service card and return the "unhappy" rotor.
I was merely adding my experience relative to the OP's thread topic....unless that advice was a blanket statement towards the previous (and all future) members who post.


dk

If anyone is not pleased with their graded rotors, we will check and replace the "unhappy" ones.....

Here's the 5 i received from Novak,checked on SM2 with fresh 9v duracell
-1340/1316
-1335/1298
-1325/1311
-1306/1266
-1295/1280

I sent Novak a few questions,but looking at the above which are considered graded

Which of these would be considered the best? The first or the third because the split is less?

If anyone is not pleased with their graded rotors, we will check and replace the "unhappy" ones.....


thats funny. I won't post how pathetic the one I just bought was... :thumbsup:

Not bashing Novak, it just got to be my luck with getting not so good numbers..

Looks like the ole saying still holds true..."There's a sucker born every minute"! :rolleyes:

Looks like the ole saying still holds true..."There's a sucker born every minute"! :rolleyes:

The "suckers" who purchased our graded rotors, and are not happy with them, can either return them for a replacement or ask for a refund.

We want those forum members who participated in this trial to enjoy their rotor(s) and feel that it was worthwhile purchase.

....and you can't beat THAT kind of offer!! Great Job!

Both of the "Graded Rotors" I purchased are slightly over the advertised minimum numbers......what should I do ;)

pray they'll stay that way after a couple of runs,lol

The "suckers" who purchased our graded rotors, and are not happy with them, can either return them for a replacement or ask for a refund.

We want those forum members who participated in this trial to enjoy their rotor(s) and feel that it was worthwhile purchase.

Didn't intend for this comment to look like a slam against Novak, but it's just surprising to see how many guys will buy the "High Numbers" thing thinking this will get them those wins. ;)

pray they'll stay that way after a couple of runs,lol


I,m curious to see how they hold up also. I,ve been running brushless in oval for about 3 years and so far different motors havent been a real performance improvement. We will see what a good rotor in a good can will do?

thanks for the rotors,i'll send back the non graded ones.
well worth the investment.

So in essence, me?

dkDidn't intend for this comment to look like a slam against Novak, but it's just surprising to see how many guys will buy the "High Numbers" thing thinking this will get them those wins. ;)

Yep, that crazy DK, always looking for more power... :)

I am curious what is the cost for the graded rotors to the normal street racer SRM

I thougth that cost was about $40.00 for a 'graded' rotor, in it's test market (First offering)

I think the regular sintered rotor is generally avail in the hobby stores for around $25.00, getting one known to be one of the better ones for $40.00 wouldn't be too shabby (VS buying 3-4 and having to take a chance on them being the higher level number)

I also believe it was said the original offering of these rotors only had about 50 available...and I believe a lot of people who bought them bought them up at least 3-4 per person. So that means only 10-12 PEOPLE in the whole country even got them

We shipped 51 rotors to 24 customers.

I would like to see all the Rotors be good ones! Maybe I'm asking too much!

where can you order these

I thought all this switch to Brushless was supposed to eliminate the "motor issues".

I guess at least the lathes and brush/spring box can stay at home.

:D

Awww come on, some of you were thinking it too.

ok i have a question....why is it that when i buy a replacement rotor they always seem to check 1140 to 1160...but i can spend 90 bucks on a motor and get one thats 1250 or better?

Thanks
Nick

The graded rotors are magnetized here by us----a very labor intensive procedure, at this time. They are not selected out of the rotors manufactured by our vendor and built into our motors.

All incoming rotors (from vendor) are checked for magnetic strength and undergo torque-testing prior to our motor assembly. They must adhere to the criteria we establish for the vendor.

where are you guys purchasing these rotors? id like to purchase some :)

The graded rotors are magnetized here by us----a very labor intensive procedure, at this time. They are not selected out of the rotors manufactured by our vendor and built into our motors.

All incoming rotors (from vendor) are checked for magnetic strength and undergo torque-testing prior to our motor assembly. They must adhere to the criteria we establish for the vendor.

first batch looked real popular. are you guys taking preorders for the next batch? :D

first batch looked real popular. are you guys taking preorders for the next batch? :D

Not yet. I'll post info in the Novak support thread when we have them available again.

I would have to wonder what someone would pay for a rotor that is guaranteed to give them 10,000 RPM more that anything else they have... I think the actual performance means more than the numbers on the rotor in most cases.

if ur selling me it, 95 dollars JUST for the rotor...

Seems like not too long ago, someone was trying to sell a 1350+ for $100 starting bid. Don't know if it went or for how much! I'm sure somebody scarfed it up but won't admit that spending that kinda money on a rotor didn't get'em that "A" main win!!! :rolleyes:

what we need is a good magnetizer like we had with brushed motors.then we wouldent have to spend the extra $$ on the pick of the litter

Shakey, that may be much more dificullt that with the brushed cans. Can where + and - the brushless rotor I believe have multiple + then -, + then -, around the rotor.

But it would be nice.

what we need is a good magnetizer like we had with brushed motors.then we wouldent have to spend the extra $$ on the pick of the litter

You need a large capacitive discharge magnetizer. It would cost thousands. Wouldn't make financial sense.

Seems like not too long ago, someone was trying to sell a 1350+ for $100 starting bid. Don't know if it went or for how much! I'm sure somebody scarfed it up but won't admit that spending that kinda money on a rotor didn't get'em that "A" main win!!! :rolleyes:

I know who got it.....After he ran it once it was down to like 1230 on one side and 1250 on the other. Some people run stronger with the 1200 rotors. Just gearing it seems. On the dyno you can make them pretty equal.

After he ran it once it was down to like 1230 on one side and 1250 on the other

Which is why all this stuff is just silly. Until the rotor has been run once the gauss reading is meaningless.

I used to do some magnet design work and all of this amuses me. :)

Who says the "BIG" rotors are the fastest rotors in every class? Some classes may like the smaller rotors better! :cool: I'd rather have a box full of 1300+ rotors rather than 1150's tho! lol

Who says the "BIG" rotors are the fastest rotors in every class? Some classes may like the smaller rotors better! :cool: I'd rather have a box full of 1300+ rotors rather than 1150's tho! lol

True...True...

How has numbers after a few runs,heat cycles? I haven't had the chance to race lately,just curious if and how much gauess has been lost?

Who says the "BIG" rotors are the fastest rotors in every class?

I do.

A motor gets it's physical movement by the interplay of two magnetic fields, with at least one the the fields being created by an occilating electromagnet. In the case of the brushless motors we run it is a single magnet in the rotor and three electromagnets in the can that drive against the rotor magnet's field. The more powerful each magnet is the more torque is produced, period, end of story. Adding 100 milihernies to a rotor WILL allow you to add to your rollout and still hit the same RPM (which is faster).

Saying a less powerful rotor is better for a given track is like saying running a partially charged battery is better, both slow you down by reducing one of the magnetic fields involved. If you are faster with a smaller rotor then what you've uncovered is a flaw in your setup. Put the big rotor back in, add the tooth to your pinion and start to address the push that the extra speed has created.

Bob

this is going to get entertaining! LOL

How has numbers after a few runs,heat cycles? I haven't had the chance to race lately,just curious if and how much gauess has been lost?

After several practice runs and two qualifiers my 1350 now measures 1250. I had a friend at the track measure it for me on a RMS= 1250 then when I got home I measured it on a Zubie= 1250. Good news is car was still fast enough for a second in the main.....guess it wasnt the rotor....LOL.

I do.

A motor gets it's physical movement by the interplay of two magnetic fields, with at least one the the fields being created by an occilating electromagnet. In the case of the brushless motors we run it is a single magnet in the rotor and three electromagnets in the can that drive against the rotor magnet's field. The more powerful each magnet is the more torque is produced, period, end of story. Adding 100 milihernies to a rotor WILL allow you to add to your rollout and still hit the same RPM (which is faster).

Saying a less powerful rotor is better for a given track is like saying running a partially charged battery is better, both slow you down by reducing one of the magnetic fields involved. If you are faster with a smaller rotor then what you've uncovered is a flaw in your setup. Put the big rotor back in, add the tooth to your pinion and start to address the push that the extra speed has created.

Bob

Maybe your right!... Do you have any good setup tips to help me out? My cars are always a little tight in!

I saw that coming from here. :D

Maybe your right!... Do you have any good setup tips to help me out? My cars are always a little tight in!

Maybe you need a little more interplay in one of the fields! :thumbsup: lol

Gotta Love Smart People ... Its just a shame they all Drown when it rains...

Gotta Love Smart People ... Its just a shame they all Drown when it rains...

It's raining here and I'm still afloat!!! :wave:

andy sheot floats bro! i'm living proof!

andy sheot floats bro! i'm living proof!

:thumbsup: ;) :wave: :lol:

It's raining here and I'm still afloat!!! :wave:

Maybe he meant people who are pretending to be smart are the ones who drown!

Maybe he meant people who are pretending to be smart are the ones who drown!

I hope so! :cool: