Trying to get the GTB set up, got everything installed, according to the instructions and all, and everything looks correct. However, I seem to having a problem with the receiver now; seems like it's stuttering/not picking up voltage from the ESC. I'm running a Spektrum DX3.0, Spektrum SR3000 receiver, and just trying to get the ESC set up using my 4500mAh 4-cells. I did have a Tekin FX in the car prior to the GTB. The radio and receiver seem to bind up fine; it works with the Tekin.

I get erratic voltage/signal, I guess, from the GTB to the receiver. The green light on the receiver is intermittent. It'll some on for a few seconds, stay on (like it's supposed to), but once I even touch the throttle, the light goes out and nothing to the receiver; not even any steering. I checked for shorts and loose connections, and all the solder joints look OK. It works *somewhat* on the bench, but as soon as I set the car down, I get nothing, or it's very erratic.

Like I said, all I'm trying to do is just get the thing going for now; I'm not gonna race it with a 4-cell.

Any suggestions? Could the "power cap" (large capacitor) be bad?

If members here cannot help you, you will probably need to email tech@teamnovak.com on Monday with your question. Please make your initial email as detailed as possible. Include:

~ Novak esc (new/used)
~ motor (brand/wind)
~ gearing
~ radio system (receiver/transmitter)
~ servo used
~ battery, brand (c rating/capacity)
~ any external modules (BEC/brand)
~ other important info: water damage, corrosive chemical sprays, excess heat, etc

The more information you provide in your first email, the more quickly tech support can offer you assistance. Please include all info in your OP in your email, also.

Turn the lipo cut off off. thats what i had to do with mine. mine did the same thing. i run one cell lipo 13.5. it was weird at first till i figured it out. oh and while your in their turn the brakes down to about 25%. their pretty feirce at 100%. actually the car locks up the tires on my pan car making it loose controle at any thing higher than that. it takes a lil while waiting to go throught the lights but its worth it.

Just as an informational follow up, to maybe get better advice..
This unit was mine, and was run in 13.5 1-cell.
I used it with a 9650 servo, and an older 133F Futaba receiver.
I did use an RX pack.
The last race the car was used was a trophy race,
the car had fast lap of the day, and finished 3rd.
The motor and esc were taken out as one unit, did not even unsolder
anything. So I am certain there were no issues.
I couldn't offer much help to Jimmy as I do not know a thing
about Spektrums...

Just trying to get him accurate help...
I want to see him up and running... thanks... Dan.

Dan, thank you for the suggestion. I tried an old BEC circuit hooked up to it, just to get it to work, and it helped. Might just be that my old 4-cells are shot...LOL...Like I said, my Tekin FX works fine with the 19T and 27T motors. Just trying to get the 13.5 brushless stuff going.

Anyone have a part # and an approximate cost of the receiver booster?

u need voltage to the receiver/servo..it stutters when you hit the throttle because it is starving for power...either buy a booster or a thunder power lipo receiver pack asap.

Anyone have a part # and an approximate cost of the receiver booster?

If by receiver booster, you were describing BECs:

Novak BEC Modules (http://www.shopatron.com/index/135.0.19780.35126.0.0.0)

Or SmartBoost:

Novak SmartBoost (http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=5474/135.0.19780.47841.0.0.0)

Kat, any idea which of the LHS carry the Thunder Power receiver pack? $15 sounds a whole lot better than $40 for the Novak Smart thingie.

the smart boost is great! i cant stress that enough. Novak really did a good job with it. its a lil more money than a reciever pack but totally worth it. especially if your trying to save wieght in the 13.5 one cell class like me. NOVAK NOVAK NOVAK. i cant say it enough. one less batterey to charge as well.

just a tip too if your going with the Novak Smart Boost. (which i hope you do) hook everything up and mount the on/off switch. then find a place to mount the modual but dont stick it yet. Cut off the shrink wrap and unsolder all the wires cut off excess wire and re solder them in (one wire at a time so you dont get confused.) then get some big heat shrink and seal it all back up. and double stick it! Just another way to save a lil weight. every gram counts in the 13.5 class