In the 2-ft Wide Door Layout thread, Dyno mentions that "The only drawback [to layouts on hollow-core doors] is that you must use screws to hold everything down because nails won't hold too well, and its tough finding the right size screws at the Home depot."

I've discovered on the 2-ft layout project that paneling nails (also called "panel nails") hold very solidly in the thin wood surface of the HC door I'm using. These are like wire nails that have a shaft that is ribbed (for your ... uh, never mind). Enlarge the thumbnail below to see the ribbing detail. As the ribs pass through, the panel material bounces back to grip the narrow parts.

They also hold more solidly in foamcore board than standard wire nails.

Paneling nails are inexpensive and available at my local hardware store and the two superstore chains nearby. They are finished in a tough coating to match paneling colors, so the heads don't need painting to match the track.

I'm still going to glue the track down with a small dab of silicone seal and then pull out the nails, but until then, the track's not going anywhere.

-- D

I've used those nails for hanging paneling. They do work fairly well for that application but are very difficult to remove. When you need to remove them they tend to tear up the material being used by acting like a reamer. They are also made from a hardened metal and have a propensity to snap off. I think you'll be cursing your selection if you try to remove a track piece that's been nailed with a ribby.

Finding good screws for mounting track is very easy, go to McMaster-Carr online.

For example:

Brass #3 phillips, 5/8" - Part Number: 92114A098
$4.61 for 100

Same thing in 3/4" is Part Number: 92114A099
$5.23 for 100

I've used those nails for hanging paneling ... I think you'll be cursing your selection if you try to remove a track piece that's been nailed with a ribby.

AFXToo,
I've also had those problems when paneling nails go into solid wood. And I'm not suggesting using these things on plywood or MDF. They really grab.

But this makes them perfect for the super-thin wood facings on hollow-core doors where normal wire nails wiggle free almost immediately. In the wood of my door, I have had no trouble - repeat, no trouble - putting paneling nails in or pulling them out, or pulling up track held down with them. But unlike regular wire brads, they do stay and hold tight, even if the track is wiggled, even if you pull them out and put them back in again.

I've only tried the nails on this one very old door. More modern doors may be different, but I don't see why. Some hollow-core doors are faced with hardboard (Masonite) and you might have problems there. But on wood HC doors, I think paneling nails are just the ticket.

Thanks for the valuable screw-size information. For most wood construction, I greatly prefer screws to nails, but when I'm trying out track plans on a door I don't want to be drilling or poking pilot holes, screwing and unscrewing every time I change something. I've found the paneling nails to be very, very good things for this particular use.

-- D

I would have never thought of paneling nails. Mainly because I have never used them. The plus to those is that you dont have to countersink them as much as the screws. I ruined a couple of pieces of track by pressing a little too hard with the countersink. I have been removing my screws a lot to try new things like gaurd rails here and there, or vinyl crash walls, even a removable tire wall that didnt come out as nice as I had hoped. I didnt think a nail would come out so easy.

yeah that is about the only nail that will hold in a H.C. door are "ring shanks". I would use something different in your wood risers, those ring shanks will hold too well. A smooth shank brad nail will work. Not a problem if you did though, you can use a soldering iron or maybe a hot glue gun to heat the nail head and you should be able to melt the track underneath to make a neat hole instead of a big crack. Fill the hole with black silicone..no problem