I have a John Deere LT155, someone did an engine swap (I bought it this way) and has been running fine.
Now however there is no spark... ran fine, went in the house for a drink, come back out, no start. It cranks but has no spark.

The wiring on this looks like a mess (because of the engine swap).

I would like to completely rewire it. Where could I find (even buy) a wiring diagram for this Kohler (Kawasaki) 14HP FC420V-AS10.

Thanks,
--
Rick

you'll need your model number, etc..but this place has great on line diagrams...

http://www.partstree.com/parts/

Kohler (Kawasaki) 14HP FC420V-AS10.

Thanks,
--
Rick

That is a Kawasaki engine not a kohler. Are your sure the engine was swapped , Deere uses mostly kawasaki's in their units.

ok sorry just looked at deeres breakdowns and I see it was a kohler as the factory engine. But they replaced that with the kawaski.

you may need to call a deere dealer to get a wiring diagram

That is a Kawasaki engine not a kohler.

Yeah, it's odd. The top has a sticker that says Kohler K series. The side has a Kawa sticker.
This seems to be the start of my battle. Do I search for Kohler or Kawa?
I went to the PartsTree site and searched under Kohler engines, I see the list of K Series engines, but my engine does not say what it is (other than the numbers I posted above) Which K engine is this?

When I go to the Kawa engines it lists FC420V-AS09, then jumps to the AS12. My AS10 is left out.:cry:

you'll need your model number, etc..but this place has great on line diagrams...

http://www.partstree.com/parts/

I'm having a problem finding any wiring diagrams, I only see parts lists.
Would you have a link to the diaghrams please?

Your Kawasaki engine number is a self servicing OEM. John Deere and other manufacturers purchase these engines at special pricing and provide all the warranty on them. They have exclusive parts rights to these engines so you will purchase parts from them rather then the engine maker.

The best way to figure out if the problem lies with the engine or the tractor is to isolate the engine from the tractor. There is usually only one wire that runs from the engine to kill circuit on the tractor and on both Kohler and Kawsaki engines the wire is usually a "white" one. Disconnect this wire and test for spark. If you have spark then the problem lies in the tractor, if no spark then the likely culprit is the ignition module.

On this engine the "Ignitor" usually is the problem, it's a little silver box on the side of the engine that has a wire that plugs into the coil and one that runs into the kill circuit of the tractor. These ignitors from Deere run around $60.00, you can get aftermarket ones for around $16.00 and they work just fine. I have used them for years.

Hi 30YrTech,
I'm not sure why I ever said Kohler, looking at the motor again I see "Kohler" nowhere!

I removed the single wire to the coil (only has 1 wire), checked for spark...none.
I guess I'll try the ignitor.

Like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-IGNITOR-JOHN-DEERE-KAWASAKI-FC420V-FC150V-KUBOTA_W0QQitemZ140324017899QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_ DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20abf696eb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A570%7C2 40%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50


EDITL I'll go with THIS (http://powerlawnmowerparts.hostasaurus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PLP&Product_Code=9334) instead

Hi 30YrTech,
I'm not sure why I ever said Kohler, looking at the motor again I see "Kohler" nowhere!

I removed the single wire to the coil (only has 1 wire), checked for spark...none.
I guess I'll try the ignitor.

EDITL I'll go with THIS (http://powerlawnmowerparts.hostasaurus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PLP&Product_Code=9334) instead

That's exactly the one I use, and they work fine.

No expert but could be you have a wire going to ground or the coil has gone out. Also the possibility that the fuse in the ignition link has burned.
Hope this helps.

Billy3p

Yes Billy,
I understand there could be ALL kinds of other possibilities. (I'm a Toyota tech, but don't know lawn mowers)
I'll just try this ignitor first, then come back here if it fails.

I WOULD just like to rewire the hole thing, seems like there's a lot of un-needed wires there. Like the ignition switch with what...8-12 wires...2 plugs...2 fuses? What's the need?

There are no fuses on this engine that would prevent the ignition system from working.

All the wiring you see coming out and going everywhere is probably wiring for the safety interlock system. This will prevent the engine from starting if the blades are engaged or the drive system is activated. There is also a system to shut down the engine should the operator fall off the seat while in motion or with the blades engaged. John Deere usually incorporates a few relays and switches to do this and this is why there are so many wires.

Howdy,
FINALLY got that ignitor, that took for ever.
I installed it, and elliminated the kill wire to the coil. Still no spark :(
I'm trying to understand how this system works.

The 2 blue wires from underneath the round thing on top, balancer??? Those wire produce a dim light (with my test light while cranking) Which tells me the "magneto" is ok????

Billy, you said "fuse in the ignition link", both fuses on the ignition switch are good. With the key on I can hear something clicking when I install/uninstall one fuse.

I'm trying to understand which wire "turns the ignition on" (like in a car)
I have my main power to the starter, I have power to the starter solinoid (since it cranks over fine) Now, what turns the ignition system on?
If I knew that I could just use a jumper wire and "turn it on" to see if I get spark.

30YrTech, you said "If you have spark then the problem lies in the tractor, if no spark then the likely culprit is the ignition module".
Where is the ignition module, can I bypass it?

There are still other wires. All the wires for the seat switch and blade switch have been disconnected. Actually it was like this, but I cleaned it up some since it wouldn't start anyway.
I believe I found all 4 of those and bypassed them. (Jumped 2 for the deck switch and 2 for the seat switch)
Those would cause a "no crank", correct? Are there other wires that would cause a no spark?

I'm still wishing I could find a wiring diagram...where?

OK. A friend of mine has a JD LX172 mower. His wiring is identical to my mower.
Does this help any? I've searched online for wiring diagrams...no luck. Looking at my friends mower does not really help, and he's not the type of friend I want to borrow test parts from.

Your engine should have a coil mounted on the cylinder. This is the part the spark plug wire comes out of. There should be another wire much smaller in diameter and is usually a white wire. This wire should plug into the coil and go down to the ignitor you purchased. Disconnect any other wires going to the ignitor and just leave the one from the coil plugged into it. This will isolate the engine's ignition from the tractor. Test for spark like this. If you still do not have any spark, then there is a possiblility that the coil is bad.