Will airbrush work on monster models? [Archive]

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BKSinAZ

06-05-2009, 12:09 AM

I plan on getting back into building and will start with the Moebius and Polar lights monster model collection. I was wondering how everyone has been painting them. Have you been using an airbrush or would that be over kill?

What type of paint and glue? Name brands please.

Trek Ace

06-05-2009, 02:19 AM

Sure.

You can use an airbrush for laying down primer and base coats, as well as subtle blends and shading. The details are really brought out by a combination of washes (for recesses) and dry brushing (for highlights, wear, scuffs, etc.)

Two really good kits for practicing these techniques are the Aurora "The Wolf Man" and "The Mummy". Both of which are now being re-released by Revell and are in most hobby shops now. All of that hair on the Wolf Man and wrappings on the Mummy are prime candidates for developing both skills. These kits also have nice bases that call for their own detailing - the Mummy in particular, with the stone artifacts in the desert sand.

There are photos of some great builds of these kits to use as reference as a guide.

I use liquid plastic cement (Ambroid Pro Weld, Tenax 7R, Plastruct), cyanoacrylate and epoxy for construction.

Putties are Nitro Stan (which can be cut with liquid cement, alcohol, acetone, etc., if needed) and epoxy putty.

I use mostly enamels and acrylics for paints on figures. I use a variety of brands. Use the heavier solvents for primers and base coats. Acrylics are great for washes and drybrushing. Again, these are my own preferences. You can use whatever you want.

The most important thing is that you enjoy the experience.

razorwyre1

06-05-2009, 05:20 AM

airbrushing on monster (and other figure) kits is in no way overkill. its often needed to create certain effects on those subjects that would be very difficult to do using other techniques. its a must for subtle gradations of tone in flesh and fabric.

no particular technique is overkill on any subject if that technique is the best way to achieve the look and/or level of realism that you want on your finished kit.

Aurora-brat

06-05-2009, 08:49 AM

I use an airbrush almost exclusively for monster models. There are effects that can only be achieved with an airbrush. Here are some examples:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/aurora-brat/CreatureA.jpg
All of the shading on the Creature and the large lizard were airbrushed.

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Portals/0/Gallery/Tory%20Mucaro/King%20Kong/tmucaro01.jpg
The skin tone and fur were blended by airbrush on Kong

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Portals/0/Gallery/Tory%20Mucaro/Aurora%20Pteranodon/tmucaropteranodone1.jpg
All of the subtle shading on this Flying Reptile could have only been done with an airbrush

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Portals/0/Gallery/Tory%20Mucaro/T%20Rex/tmucarototyro003.jpg

Same with T-Rex

Hope this inspires you to go for it!

Tory

Jodet

06-05-2009, 12:26 PM

starseeker

06-05-2009, 01:52 PM

First of all, go to You Tube and check out the Testor's painting videos. Whether you airbrush or hand paint or both depends largely on your subject. Cartoon characters look good in bright even airbrushed colors. Dark complex models like the new Mummy are going to require a lot of subtle handwork with washes and shading to bring out their best and then an overall airbrush hit of clear flat to keep them from looking glossy and toylike.
Modeler's Resource way back in Jan 99 did a good article on painting the Ertl Rancor. The author used a lacquer primer on a vinyl kit. I don't know if you should use lacquer on a styrene kit. Then he went to acrylic artists paints for the various colors and mottling, painting by hand using a 2" brush to mottle the big kit. Then he applied an acrylic gel medium glaze from a craft store. He mixed in a little Mars Black and Burnt Sienna, "globbed" it on with a 1/2" brush, and immediately rubbed it off with a lint free cloth. This left the glaze in all the cracks and crevices. Wear old clothes and gloves as this can be really messy. Dry brush the base colors over any areas that came out too dark. Then a couple coats of flat lacquer and let it dry and do any finish work. I used that technique for my Rancor and will use it on The Mummy. It's messy, fast and fun.
On the other hand, the airbrush is capable of great subtlety.

gojira61

06-05-2009, 02:06 PM

Hope this inspires you to go for it!

These inspire me to go for it and I can use an airbrush!

Tory, those are simply OUTSTANDING! :thumbsup:

Jim

John P

06-05-2009, 02:09 PM

Let's seee....
I don't do a lot of figures, but these here were airbrushed:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/slayer1.html
http://www.inpayne.com/models/shehulk.html

Steve244

06-05-2009, 02:33 PM

Let's seee....
I don't do a lot of figures, but these here were airbrushed:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/slayer1.html
http://www.inpayne.com/models/shehulk.html

John! I didn't know you had it in you (ok I did after visiting the tomb raider thread).

Jafo

06-05-2009, 02:33 PM

check out amazing figure modeler for some great airbrushed figures!
http://www.amazingmodeler.com/

AJ-1701

06-07-2009, 02:30 AM

This an early build way back when Jurassic Park came out. Like JohnP I'm much of a figure builder...

From memeory the base coat was applied using an old revell syphon air-brush with an areosol propellant. All the main colours were acryilic with some flat black thined with a mix of mothalted spirits and water and the flood brushed over it for a final wash.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg27/AJ-1701/th_Picture528-1.jpg (http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg27/AJ-1701/?action=view&current=Picture528-1.jpg)

AJ-1701

06-07-2009, 02:34 AM

qtan

06-09-2009, 01:08 AM

Ok, here's one more example of airbrushing using transparent paints:

http://qtan.homestead.com/stegosaurus/steggy1.jpg