I have recently purchased 2 new Slashes and after just a few runs the motors are shot. Since you can't rebuild them they are garbage. Just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem and if Traxass will do anything about replacing them.

I run my stock slash motors on 7 cell packs and have had no problems. Did you spray them out and oil them after each battery pack? I have heard traxxas will give you a new replacement motor.

Ive heard Traxxas will replace them depending on run time. You have to care for any motor. If you do it will lst a long time. I just replaced by original Titan. It had about 70 packs run through it. the bushing finally wore to where the rotor was wobbling. Blow it out with compressed air and put one to two drops of light machine oil on both motor bushings after you have run it for the day. Youll get a good life out of it, You'll kill any motor if you submerge it, over heat it, and dont take care of it.

I'm well aware of the maintenance requirements for the motors, they were cleaned and oiled after each run, the bushings were so worn out that the rotors had so much play in them that you couldn't adjust the gear mesh. Thanks for the input, I guess I'll have to give Traxass a call and see what they will do.

Don't matter how much you clean or blow or oil, the motors don't last. We are fighing this at out local track. People are getting tired of buying motors every other race. We have tried stock gearing, different pinons, different spurs, still the same result. We even run the Losi 14 turn, same thing. We run Nexus 15c 2s club packs. We are trying to get the track owner to let us run Trinity 21 turn specs, no luck so far. You are not the only one, lmk if you find an alternative that will keep the cost down and close to stock class.

I Have Gone Thru 7 Motors In 6 Mnths All Maintained Too Traxxas Knows There Is Probelm They Are Working On It So They Say

Don't matter how much you clean or blow or oil, the motors don't last. We are fighing this at out local track. People are getting tired of buying motors every other race. We have tried stock gearing, different pinons, different spurs, still the same result. We even run the Losi 14 turn, same thing. We run Nexus 15c 2s club packs. We are trying to get the track owner to let us run Trinity 21 turn specs, no luck so far. You are not the only one, lmk if you find an alternative that will keep the cost down and close to stock class.

The only solution we have found so far is to use 17.5 brushless with 23 tooth pinion. It doesn't keep the cost down but most of us already had brushless to use, as for performance we have found the speeds to be very close with a slight advantage to the stock motor but you gain more run time with the brushless. You could purchase a Novak Havoc system as they are about the cheapest complete brushless motor and esc.

It is really strange to see such a variation in performance. I know these are cheap mass produced drill motors, but still......I've got somewhere between 60-70 runs on mine and it's just starting to fade; clean/oil and the performance comes back up a bit. Bushings still aren't that sloppy either. I blow it out w/ air and oil it after every race weekend and usually don't bother when just bashing around with it. Guess Jerzferno and I got lucky with motor life?

It is really strange to see such a variation in performance. I know these are cheap mass produced drill motors, but still......I've got somewhere between 60-70 runs on mine and it's just starting to fade; clean/oil and the performance comes back up a bit. Bushings still aren't that sloppy either. I blow it out w/ air and oil it after every race weekend and usually don't bother when just bashing around with it. Guess Jerzferno and I got lucky with motor life?
It is not just you and Steve that are lucky. I've still got the original motor in mine too, after having run it in a couple races last year, the whole indoor season over the winter, and yesterday I got 2nd place with that same motor. Not to mention the time spent running it in practice. And I've always run mine on 7-cell packs, which some people claim destroys the motor instantly.

I've been running the same motor since Aug. and it is as strong as ever. Also, it has never been out of the truck, never cleaned, only oiled.

same here ive used same 1 from day 1.

The only person I've seen with motor issues was my son, and he ran his thru water with sandy grit. Took out the motor after only 3 or 4 runs. I've had my original stock motor in for 20 runs or so & it was still good when I swapped it out for the start of Washtenaw's season, that motor is still in it and running good.

Strange.

I have never had 1 go bad but have seen alot of people that have.

Interesting note i never clean or oil my motor if i ever do i spray wd-40 in it till it looks clean,,,,,but the ones i see really clean and take care of there motors are who's having problems.

could it be the cleaning solvents eating up the coating of the copper wire

When you guys are saying they dont last........what do you ACTUALLY mean? The bushings wear out? They are not as fast as they were new? They stop running altogether? All of the above? Also, how are you using them. 3 guys from my track including me have responded to this thread and reported long motor lives. We race them. If your running them in mud, water, whatever, of course they wont last. The Traxxas Slash is "Water Tight" I believe is what they claim. But that is for the steering servo, ESC, and receiver. Not the motor. All motors will fail with repeated use in water/mud. So how are you using it, and whats actually "not lasting"?

When you guys are saying they dont last........what do you ACTUALLY mean? The bushings wear out? They are not as fast as they were new? They stop running altogether? All of the above? Also, how are you using them. 3 guys from my track including me have responded to this thread and reported long motor lives. We race them. If your running them in mud, water, whatever, of course they wont last. The Traxxas Slash is "Water Tight" I believe is what they claim. But that is for the steering servo, ESC, and receiver. Not the motor. All motors will fail with repeated use in water/mud. So how are you using it, and whats actually "not lasting"?

Go back and look at my post #4, and they are being raced on a short course clay track, I thought that was what they were designed for.

How many runs do you have on it/them when the bushings get to a sloppy point? What batteries are you using? Hows your slipper clutch set? I dont see this happening to me or any of the other 25+ guys that race them at my track?

Yeah they are designed for that but i bet they are like a car don't buy the one that was made on a monday or a friday they won't last. Maybe that is what happened to you.

Motor only had about 12-15 runs on it and I'm using 6-cell 4200's. The slipper clutch is set a factory setting. I'm not the only one at our track with this problem, in the last 2 months there have been about 12 guys that have purchased new Slashes and every single one of us has had the same issue. Some guys with 20yrs experience and some newbies. Hard to understand why we all have had this problem and some of you guys haven't.

Go brushless 17.5 no more motor problems

So these Slashes are relatively new that all these guys are having problems with? Have they purchsed new motors? Same problem with them? Yea there may be some truth to what calrosse said, if its made on a Monday or Friday, look out. LOL All you guys should write TRAXXAS together and tell them. If there are problems and no one tells them about it, they cant fix what they dont know about. Sorry for your bad luck with these. Dont give up on them.

It is not just you and Steve that are lucky. I've still got the original motor in mine too, after having run it in a couple races last year, the whole indoor season over the winter, and yesterday I got 2nd place with that same motor. Not to mention the time spent running it in practice. And I've always run mine on 7-cell packs, which some people claim destroys the motor instantly.

Make that 4. I had my original Titan with that much run time and running it in the salt water on the beaches of OBX as well. It finally dead but I got at least 70 plus runs out of it easy.

Maybe Titans just like it here in NJ for some reason:p.

Matt you racing SUnday?

Matt you racing SUnday?
Hope so, but it might take a miracle to get everything done...:rolleyes:

I am finding that beaking them in properly helps out a ton. And using a good qaulity bushing lube.
for those that run them on carpet pay particular attention to the carpet fuzz build up inside it will kill a motor in very short order.
Heres what I am currently doing.
1) initialy spray the motor with cleaner and let dry
2)run it at 2.0v in a jar filled with mineral spirits for 5 min
3)spray it out with motor spray and let dry
4)lube bushings ( I am using tribo lube)
5)I also use the tribo on the comm trust me if you can get ahold of this stuff it works awsome.
I would skip 5 if not using tribo
6)run motor again at 2.0v for 2 min
7)your ready to go

this seems like a lot but trust me you wont be disapointed in the results.

After every race day I run the motor for a min in a jar of mineral spirits then I spray it out and relube the bushings.

I have a motor with well over 100 runs and it still runs great and pulls almost the same amps (1.8amps @2.0v) on my t35 as it did when new (1.3amps@2.0v)

Where do you find tribo lube :freak:

I am finding that beaking them in properly helps out a ton. And using a good qaulity bushing lube.
for those that run them on carpet pay particular attention to the carpet fuzz build up inside it will kill a motor in very short order.
Heres what I am currently doing.
1) initialy spray the motor with cleaner and let dry
2)run it at 2.0v in a jar filled with mineral spirits for 5 min
3)spray it out with motor spray and let dry
4)lube bushings ( I am using tribo lube)
5)I also use the tribo on the comm trust me if you can get ahold of this stuff it works awsome.
I would skip 5 if not using tribo
6)run motor again at 2.0v for 2 min
7)your ready to go

this seems like a lot but trust me you wont be disapointed in the results.

After every race day I run the motor for a min in a jar of mineral spirits then I spray it out and relube the bushings.

I have a motor with well over 100 runs and it still runs great and pulls almost the same amps (1.8amps @2.0v) on my t35 as it did when new (1.3amps@2.0v)Pretty much the same,except I run mine in a glass of water,then blow it out with compressed air and electric motor cleaner. A few drops of Oil and ready to Go. I have ran the Stock Motor 1 1/2 years now and totally wore out 2 Steel pinions and 1 Spur Gear on the same motor. Still Going Strong with over 100 packs on it. Mine only gets Cleaned after about 30-40 Runs. When it Looks Gross!!!

Use Losi pinions and they won't wear out.

Use Losi pinions and they won't wear out.

+1 and they are much smoother

ive had 15 to 20 weekly racers here all summer and have not seen any motors going bad that fast, a few bushings have worn out after 3mo. or so but nothing bad. I have been very happy with the slash as a whole, very well built trucks. cheep parts are a bonus if you can break them.

Use Losi pinions and they won't wear out.
Stock pinion wore out then I replaced it with the Silver Robinson Steel pinion and that wore out after Quite some time. I just tried the Hardened Robinson,same Gray color as Losi. Are they Good? I have a Losi Pinion to try next. By then I will Probably need a new motor. Maybe Not.

Stock pinion wore out then I replaced it with the Silver Robinson Steel pinion and that wore out after Quite some time. I just tried the Hardened Robinson,same Gray color as Losi. Are they Good? I have a Losi Pinion to try next. By then I will Probably need a new motor. Maybe Not.
Robinson doesn't make any pinion as hard as a Losi. Try the file test: Can a file mark a Robinson pinion? Losi pinions are harder than a file and won't be marked by a file.

Makes sence. I'll try it.

Robinson doesn't make any pinion as hard as a Losi. Try the file test: Can a file mark a Robinson pinion? Losi pinions are harder than a file and won't be marked by a file.
I need to make a minor adjustment to that statement: Robinson doesn't make any 48P pinion as hard as a Losi.

The Robinson MOD1 pinions for 5MM shafts (1/8th electric conversions) are as hard as Losi pinions. Not that you can use them on a Slash, but I wanted to clarify my previous comment

Part of the pinion problem is the egg shaped spurs. You have to set the lash so tight so that it doesn't wipe the teeth off the "loose" half of the spur.

Part of the pinion problem is the egg shaped spurs. You have to set the lash so tight so that it doesn't wipe the teeth off the "loose" half of the spur.

I have seen this as well. Every Slash I have set the mesh on takes some time so you're not too tight on one side or too loose on another.
I have tried spur gears from a couple of vendors, not sure any is better than another.

I bought a new motor for my slash and after about 4 battery packs through it, it just quit working all together. Just wasnt making connection at the brushes. A freind bought a slash and after a month of regular running it, he had the same problem. Maybe bad brushes or just lack of correct break in?:confused:

Well over 200 packs Now 5 pinions and Spurs Later the motor still Won't Die. I have a friend with a new slash with about 25-30 packs through it,Motor was broke in the same way. Both Trucks run Dead even with no loss of power on my Old motor. Bushings are still tight. The Secret is in the OIL!

The Secret is in the OIL! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/images/buttons/quote.gif (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=3520391)


OK WE GIVE UP :freak: What is the OIL :confused:

The oil goes on the bushings. You will just have to find a good oil and NOT Tribotech. I make my Own.

I have a neat secret.
On a NEW 12T motor, install in your truck. Using a 7 cell pack fully charged start the truck up with the wheels turning slowly (on a stand). Put a block under radio trigger and rubber band it so it keeps the wheels turning slowly. Flip the truck over and leave it until the battery goes dead. Repeat one more time with 7 cell pack#2. DO NOT run in reverse or fast forward. Only slowly in forward. After pack#2 is done. Let motor cool and oil each end of the bushings. It sets the brushes on the commutator. I have already broke in my 2 new motors and all ready for racing action this weekend. Motor seems to roll more freely. I have junked 3 motors since March in a Stampede and Slash. I am guessing reversing while still oving forward and fast back/forth will break off the brushes.
Good luck!

Any of the cloosed endbell motors are inconsistent from one to another,Before you run/oil one,water dip it and then clean it out,seats the brushes and bushings in a little.You are still at the mercy of a bent rotor/ irregular comm or bare spots in windings.at a local track some get a lot and some not so much,gearing?They are a inexpensive spec type motor!

I have a neat secret.
On a NEW 12T motor, install in your truck. Using a 7 cell pack fully charged start the truck up with the wheels turning slowly (on a stand). Put a block under radio trigger and rubber band it so it keeps the wheels turning slowly. Flip the truck over and leave it until the battery goes dead. Repeat one more time with 7 cell pack#2. DO NOT run in reverse or fast forward. Only slowly in forward. After pack#2 is done. Let motor cool and oil each end of the bushings. It sets the brushes on the commutator. I have already broke in my 2 new motors and all ready for racing action this weekend. Motor seems to roll more freely. I have junked 3 motors since March in a Stampede and Slash. I am guessing reversing while still oving forward and fast back/forth will break off the brushes.
Good luck!


to expand on hispeedguy, the 2.4 Traxxas radio has a throttle trim function. My new Slash is currently breaking in, and I set the throttle trim so that the wheels are just turning. No need to rubber band the throttle this way!

Will let you all know how this works out for me

just get rid of the stock 12 turn. stock class is now brushless. Traxxas is making the Slash brushless.

just get rid of the stock 12 turn. stock class is now brushless. Traxxas is making the Slash brushless.

they may be making the slash brushless, but at its current price not many people buying...majority still getting the brushed version...

our stock class allows the 17.5 Novac though

Not if your local track isn't running the brushless slash as stock! The VXL motor isn't exactly a "stock" class brushless motor.
I know that we are NOT going to allow the VXL Slashes to run in stock at our track- it would put everyone who already has a Slash with the brushed motor at a disadvantage. The VXL slashes will run in Mod or have the option of running the VXL ESC with the 12T brushed motor. YMMV depending on your track's rules, of course.

I have the VXL in my Slash and run in the mod class. But I talked to Traxxas and they are putting the same motor in the Slash. That means my mod Slash will now be stock.

you're not understanding...they are not going to stop selling the brushed slash.

so, the people with a brushed slash need a place to race.

I hear you But unless you have class for just the 12 turn they go away fast.

There are 4 tracks local to me that to my knowledge have zero intention of letting brushless slashes run with the brushed 12t trucks. The 12t is a budget racing option that has brought literally thousands of people into the sport. On any given race night at any of those tracks, the most populated class is spec 12t slash. You start throwing trucks in there with a huge advantage as a brushless kit, and you'll have a bunch of pissed off racers who won't come back to your track.

And, btw, I must be one of the lucky motor recipients. I wasted the first one by running in a mud soaked race in the rain, and I'm still on the second one I bought last fall...nothing specific aside from cleaning and lubing periodically...