Hello --

It's product announcement time! Here are the latest products from TSDS, just added to the website tonight!

First, the 1/128 scale 39" BIG Seaview Decals. I made these a while ago for Gil over at Just an Illusion, and have modifed them a bit and added some exterior decals (all exterior hatches, missile hatches). Take a look -- not many have seen these decals, and they are very colorful!

Second, I have the combined Mini Flying Sub and LIS B9 Robot Decal Set -- they both come on the same sheet, so you get the decal sets for both models for just one low price. The Flying Sub has the stripes, the circles around the upper and lower hatch (lower is optional), the actual hatches themselves (including the aft exterior door), the "exhaust", and the front grills. And... a repro of the original Aurora base decal for the display stand! The B-9 Robot decals include a power pack and a few other goodies including the main chest plate that was previously included in the Chariot decal set.

Third, I am now selling the Moebius "Voyager" Decals. It comes with all consoles, a "steel" floor for Busby's space, a few logos and some optional decals that you can place on the hull. Just an Illusion sells this same decal set along with some resin cast mods, so if you are thinking about getting the mods, get it all together from him as it will be cheaper that way.

Finally, there is the Mini Flying Sub FULL COLOR Fold-Up Interior Upgrade. It is printed on thick photo paper -- you just cut it out, fold it up, tape or glue it together, and stick it in the ship. Then you have a nice, color interior in minutes! Nice and easy, as long as you are good with your scissors or hobby knife. *** You do not need to purchase this with the new Mini FS-1 kit -- it is included free of charge in that kit! *** I'm sure there are more than a few folks out there that have a mini Flying Sub that came with the big Seaview kit, and might be thinking of wanting an interior for it as well.

Please take a moment and either visit the website at www.tsdsinc.com (http://www.tsdsinc.com) or look at the promo pictures below.

Thank you for your time!

--Henry

These accesories for the "lil Flying Sub are really cool!
A quick and easy way to add vibrant color and detail to your sub.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0463.jpg
It took me about 5 mins to cut out and install..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0451.jpg

What modifications did you do to the Seaview decals to change them from the Just an Illusion design? Are these laser or inkjet printed?

Also, are these made to fit on on the stock kit interior or do I still have to spend hours filing off all the surface detail like I do with the JAI ones? The Paragrafix (http://www.paragrafix.biz/product_detail.asp?MainCat=blank&SubCat=blank&PPartNum=PGX110) decals fit right on the existing detail and I think the new ones even have metallic inks ALPS printed.

On the mini flying sub insert: how do I deal with it glowing through the walls if I were to light this?

Hours? I just used a little microset. I used paul's int decs on my seaview...and he also recomends some detail removal. As to the lighting issiue, my fix will be ,replace the trapazoidal pieces that butt up against the windows with a translucent plastic.
That will allow light from the forward spotlights to wash through the interior...
And I love this decal..
I think it alone is worth the price of admission..lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0467.jpg

I like this little accessory. And I really like that it was authorised and liscensed.
By both IA and Moebius.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0449.jpg

OUTSTANDING henry, quality is superb as usual !
Bert

What I meant was – since the walls aren't opaque, the light will blast through the paper and look pretty bad. The PGMS photo etch interior actually blocks the light, plus it has girders which are pretty cool. Check out the other Aussie’s buildup – it looks great!

The cardboard might be quick and easy, but it shows - doesn't measure up to the quality of the PGMS set, which is also licensed and authorised.

It's paper..photoetch is a whole different pizza...lol

It is thick enough to block the light..I'm using forward firing LEDs to light the spots, and there is no bleed through. It's meant to be a simple fun alternative. trust me, when you seal up the sub,folks will be hard pressed to tell the difference,..But the bright colors used help the details stand out and not dissapear.

Steve

If light leak is an issue use some black electrical tape, overlapped around the insert. That should do two things; 1. make the insert a little more rigid and 2. should block out just about 100% of the light.

What I meant was – since the walls aren't opaque, the light will blast through the paper and look pretty bad. The PGMS photo etch interior actually blocks the light, plus it has girders which are pretty cool. Check out the other Aussie’s buildup – it looks great!

The cardboard might be quick and easy, but it shows - doesn't measure up to the quality of the PGMS set, which is also licensed and authorised.

Well, I guess this puts you in the category of a modeler who has not even SEEN a product but can tell everyone all about it's light bleed issues and any other defects! A harsh critic indeed! However, in truth there is little to no light bleed. It's printed on thick photo paper/cardstock which allows for even greater detail than you can get on a set of decals. The color is vibrant and the image is very sharp and clean. The quality is HIGH. You don't know, because you have not SEEN it!

The best part, though, which you have NOT mentioned is the price. It comes FREE with the new model kit. A model kit that has a $15.00 MSRP. There are some folks in this economy that are watching their spending, so something like this is a good thing! It was nice of Moebius to include a free full-color interior in the model kit and still offer it with a very affordable price tag.

On the other hand, the photoetch interior kit is almost $30.00 by the time you add in shipping! Nothing wrong with that, but you have to think about one thing: How much of it can you really see when you close the model up and look through those very tiny viewports? At that point, you have to ask yourself: Will it look that much better than a full-color FREE interior? Personally, I doubt it, but of course there is a very small possibility that I might be biased on the subject! :)

But, here we are, comparing apples and oranges. Folks are free to buy and use what they wish. I'm selling extra interiors on my website for $6.29 (plus shipping). But you get the first one free with the kit!

And, there's nothing wrong with free!

--Henry

I think it is perfect for the mini F/S and you can't beat the price period !!! Knowing henrys products, I know quality when I see it. Henry, I really like that little interior !!!!!!!
Bert

Thank for judging me without the while story.

This is no war and I'm not knocking anything. But facts is facts:

"little to no light bleed" - I prefer ZERO to ZERO. (as with PE)

I'm a printer, so I know about lightfast/bleed and card stock. Electrical tape?--Good fix-it for a cheap product.

What thickness? A 250gsm card stock (sorry, using modern metric compared to archaic Imperial) will still bleed light. And decals not having detail? Decals on 3D photoetch will be FAR more detailed than "1D" prrinting. Resolution is not the only factor, but 3D depth is huuuuuge! Are these kits offset, digital laser or home inkjet?

I'm not knocking anything, I'm just saying a few claims are "over the moon" and physics still stands. A cardboard inkjet product may be fun and easy and cheap, and that's great for throwing together a kit and sticking it on the shelf, but it's no comparison to a well researched, PE product that is a true miniature. I have no beef either way and say there's room for all high quality products. A Schwarzenegger action film is no Shakespeare, and that's OK if you want action.

I don't mind cardboard imitations, but don't pretend to be diamonds.

I could buy a Hyundai because it's adequate and cheap, and that's fine, no prob, but I know it's not a Ferrari. NO problem with a Hyundai, I have a cheap car too, but I don't tell everyone it's a well engineered work of art, I tell em it's cheap.

For very little $ can have superb quality. I'm going for superb quality.

Fair enough, rokket2001, then don't bother buying one, and nobody's gonna force you to, either. As for me, I'll be getting two. :)

[Quote] "For very little $ can have superb quality. I'm going for superb quality." [Quote]

That's always been my own philosophy when it comes to clothing, vehicles and groceries. I readily agree that Paulbo's photoetch is nice, and I fully expect that this is going to be rather sweet, too. :thumbsup:

how many folks would be successful building the Photo-Etched kit that first time? 60 percent?
As far as light leak, you need to choose the BRIGHTNESS of the light source for the application. I will be using 2 small middle bright LED's for the headlights on my FS1. I'm powering mine with a single hearing aid battery, which lasts about 5 minutes. enough for any SPFX filming I will be doing. As a second choice, a pair of "Grain of Dust" bulbs from GRSinserted into brass tubing. Power can still be a Hearing aid battery. Incandescent bulbs have a wider bandwidth than LED's which are usually a single color.

WHO CARES what materials you use, it's about the final effect. How many people will see your model first hand? 10-30 folks? More will see the photos and video.

Henry, these are more great products. Beautifully made and priced right. For people worried about light leaks I always use "Gaffers tape" used in the film/video industry. It's totally light blocking. It's made of cloth and rips very easily with just your fingers. Don't get it confused with Duct tape, it's a completely different breed of tape. It doesn't get gummy and permanently sticks to itself and other objects like duct tape. Very easy to work with. I wrapped the inside of my flying sub in it with one strip and it sealed it light tight.

That looks like a very beautiful interior for the tiny FS.
Contrary to other opinion, the resolution looks great given how small that part really is. I think the art is great and I love the shadows for the 3D effect.
Making my own home-brew etch and having built both commercially available and downloaded and home printed card models, I can't prefer one to the other. Both can work beautifully depending on the application and/or the desired end result.
As far as light leak: photoetch parts can have seams that need to be sealed, too. There isn't much chance of light leaking through the brass but unless you're using a 60W bulb behind the cardstock I wouldn't think there's much to worry about about the light levels anyone would use in the tiny FS leaking through either. You can always spray some black on the backside if it's a real worry and use electrical tape at the seams or even better (as it may reduce the light absorption a little in the FS wings and brighten the spots and engines, seal the back with bare metal foil after folding.
Honestly, if you want etch, go for it. If you want something much easier and more forgiving at a great price that should look brilliant for what you can see through those tiny windows, in fact may look a lot better than etch, depending on your painting skills, this looks like a great alternative. Moebius should consider something like this for 1/350 Seaview control room, if they're not making a styrene one for the new kit.
Newbies to card models might want to check out a card modeling site for basic folding and gluing instructions.
Took a bit of genius not only to think of this but to actually produce it. Way to go!

I don't understand the negativity, especially sight unseen. Who's describing this as diamonds? Glad you insist on superb as your own standard of excellence. Things are getting pretty quiet on this forum as far as actual modeling goes right now. Perfect opportunity to dazzle us with some of your own work.

Electrical tape?--Good fix-it for a cheap product.



How about duct tape then? :)

My product is not cheap, and for someone not looking to start a war those look like pretty insulting words to me.

The PE you are promoting is expensive. Fact. My product is not. Fact.

My product is very well researched and accurate. I think you will find the layout in my FS-1 interior walls and floor to actually be more accurate than the PE you are insistant on promoting, which (IMHO) looks like it was based on the old Monogram model rather than the studio set. Nothing wrong with that either, if you don't mind inaccuracy. But you get inaccuracy with my product as well -- I did not include the 'cage' as it would not have looked good in paper. Paper does have it's limitations, as PE does as well. I've read more than a few stories about people that had trouble with PE and they had to go and purchase a second product. Wow -- that's kind of expensive! Also, if you've never done PE before, a little 1.5" assembly is not the best place to start ...

My product is all about value. And as such, is a MORE than cost effective solution for those that would like some kind of interior and not pay twice as much for each extra component than they paid for the actual model. Of course there are modelers out there that will purchase ANYTHING that is available. It's their money, they (and you) can do what they like with it. I've seen lighting kits for $50 models run in the hundreds of dollars! And I've also seen people do some very interesting things for under $20 with a few well placed LED's and some interesting internal works. Some folks even use reflective tape and it looks great - not to mention very creative and economical. You see, not everyone feels the burning need to purchase all the aftermarket items and some actually prefer to do things themselves. That's OK too. To each his own. The main thing is to enjoy what you are doing, not spending your time cutting down someones product. It's not like I'm asking a lot of money for these.

However, you seem to be missing the purpose of this entirely. The clearly obvious fact here is the economy of these items. It boils down to quality and value vs. actual cash layout -- the consumer decides. Simple.

--Henry

82928 This is a photo of the one I did -- 5 minutes from piece of paper to interior. How hard is that? Oh - and for the record, I don't have NEAR the modeling skills that a lot of folks on Hobbytalk have. I'm sure someone here will do a much better job than I did on this!

Personally, I like most of the products that all the aftermarket producers have offered. The research, ingenuity, workmanship, quality and devotion put into them amazes me. I have used bits from one and decals from another, mixed lighting, and bought some I just look at and admire and have not figured out what to do with.

Thanks, and please keep up the great work.

This thread could be headed for a lockdown...
Let's try to keep the discussion civil and friendly....
If you have a preference in the aftermarke products you are using, that's fine just be careful how you describe other items that you are not using!

Especially if you have not even purchased those items that you may be criticising!

There are five or six after market accessory producers making accessories for Moebius Models kits, we have good relationships with all of them... and we see the value in all of their products.

Let's keep it friendly or I'll be forced to dig out my moderator hat and keys!

Dave

I haven't worked with paper in a long time, but using a single edge razor blade to keep my bend lines crisp was simple.

The interiors in the kit have embossed fold lines.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0450.jpg

Steve

Here's a shot of My big FS=1 using some of Henry's decals for the screens on the instrument panel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0474.jpg

I didn't remove any detail, I simply used micro set to apply the decals and then a few applications of micro sol amd they snuggled right down unto and over any detail...

here's a better shot of the panel.I gotta little paint touch up to do..lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0475.jpg

Steve

Those look great Steve.

I’m just pleased that there are so many after market options out there, something for everyone, every skill set, and really every budget.

Can’t wait to see what the new Moebius Jupiter 2 kit breeds in after market parts!

Jim

I'm going to give my Big Seaview a little re-fit.

Look at the detail on TSDS's seaview interior decal sheet....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0489.jpg

I like the Paragrapix decals...but man, these are beautiful.
I'm not doing this 'cuz I'm bored...I really like the vivid colors TSDS uses...it keeps the interior from looking washed out... I wish I'd have known of this set around January

Good thing I didn't glue in the lower bow...

Steve

Your doing a great job on your seaview steve, your F/S is looking pretty great as well.
Bert

Thank you Bert!
I love these decals..

Look at how well they fit and the visual details..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0497.jpg
This one is an extreme closeup...look how well the gauges line up with the kit parts. Remove detail? nope these decals really enhance it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0498.jpg

Steve

Looking very nice steve ! henry really puts a lot of effort into his products & thats why they look so good !
Bert

It really is a hoot looking at the finished product.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0504.jpg

The decals fit like a glove. They reward patience and care in cutting and application with a perfect fit.

Steve

I like choices, and seeing photos of the different products in use, really helps in the deciding.

I have never worked with PE, I do have some to use with ST model. So my first time will come when I get the Seaview one.

P.S. Steve, YOU are having too much fun!

I absolutely love Henry's work. truly amazing. I purchased virtually everything I could have for my PL 12" J-2, Moebius flying sub, pod, and chariot, and PL spindrift. I had lots of questions and bugged him quite a bit. He always returned my e-mails right away and even offered me a discount for buying so much at one time. I refused because his stuff is already too reasonable!! Thank you, Henry!! God bless!!
Kinley
:wave:

I absolutely love Henry's work. truly amazing. I purchased virtually everything I could have for my PL 12" J-2, Moebius flying sub, pod, and chariot, and PL spindrift. I had lots of questions and bugged him quite a bit. He always returned my e-mails right away and even offered me a discount for buying so much at one time. I refused because his stuff is already too reasonable!! Thank you, Henry!! God bless!!
Kinley
:wave:

Awww, shucks! Now yer' makin' me blush!

I work with computers (and computer idiots) all day long. Believe me when I say model builders are among the more "sane" kind of customers to have. Maybe it has something to do with problem solving and finding your own solutions, but if a modeler can't figure it out, he (or she) is apt to just keep plugging away at it. I really don't get a whole lot of communication from my modeling customers, so it's easy to spend a few extra minutes to help. And a bit more rewarding than a walk-in customer that has a broken computer... they are ALREADY in a bad mood because their toy is broken!

I've also gotten a lot of creative input here, and that can be invaluable.

And... it does not hurt to do this stuff at all -- I love working with models!

So, thanks for the kind words! I can't wait to get my hands on one of the new Jupiter 2 models! We only have 6 months or so to wait! :)

--Henry

Lloyd, Yup I'm having a ball!...

It was worth the week or so AND all the grief of drop-kicking the Seaview across the room.

To get this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0510.jpg

Remember, I had the other decs already in my sub.

I wanted this model to be the best it could be.

Steve

Steve

This control room looks awesome! Beautiful work sir.

Milt

Steve, One word i use to describe your seaview, OUTSTANDING !
Bert

Thank you gentlemen.

I think it's the blue and white...reminds us of a swimming pool in summer...lol

Steve

Lloyd, Yup I'm having a ball!...

It was worth the week or so AND all the grief of drop-kicking the Seaview across the room.

To get this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0510.jpg

Remember, I had the other decs already in my sub.

I wanted this model to be the best it could be.

Steve

Steve, it looks great......:thumbsup: So we should all drop kick our sub's for
them to look this good, right.......:rolleyes:

Steve, it looks great......:thumbsup: So we should all drop kick our sub's for
them to look this good, right.......:rolleyes:

Yes -- I agree. Very nice work indeed! I'm going to use his pics on my website! Those pictures ALONE should help me to sell LOTS of Seaview decals and keep those customers happy! :)

--Henry

I absolutely LOVE that pic, Steve!

Thanks, guys! Just a lucky shot, I've taken tons to pics to show my buddies...but that one worked. I almost hated to button the sub back up... No,.. no drop kicking, My foot still has a scab. But I wish I'd have known about Henry's decals in January
Thanks Tim for the front searchlight..

I'm still looking for little parts....lol

Steve

Here is a shot of Henry's decals for the 'lil Flying Sub.

You might think I'm full of Sh*^, but the little stripes for the fins laid right down with no weirdness or struggle. I was thinking they might be a bit tough ,but they were fine!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0536.jpg

This really brings the "lilFS to life. In the morning I'll shoot some pics of the little hatch decals and how cool they look and how well they lay into place.

Those look great, do you use decal set at all ?

yes, I use the micro scale system. A little micro set on the plastic. After a gentle blotting I use micro sol , to settle the decal down.
I really though those little stripes were gonna be a lot of work, It took longer to cut them out than it did to put them in place...

Steve

Henry produces top notch products !!