Seaview suggested it, so I'll take up the task. Now before a few of you turn this into a wish list for kits we'd like to see Moebius make, let's stick to the question at hand which is: How many folks would like to see a large scale B-9 robot model, what features and why? Don't bug Frank and Dave, let's keep 'em busy making our childhood dreams come true. After all they've got enough ideas to happily keep us scratching up coin from our couch cushions to buy the best models ever made.

I'd go for a larger scale B-9,I would like to see a more accurate model,the Aurora kit is nice but its not right,I remember Lunar made a 10 inch tall model wich was closer to the series robot so something along those lines,but lets not go to big as it becomes a display problem and not forgeting that if the gods at mobeus decide to listen to us its also a cost problem for them for tooling purposes and sales,they need the mainstream public to come along and help keep the hobby alive so if we keep it realistic its always a posibility,
Gordon.....Scotland

I would definately go for a larger scale accurate kit of the 'ol B9. I think anywhere from foot to sixteen inch height range would be great.

I'd include the "baggy pants" first season leg section as well as the more familiar second/third season legs so the modeler has the option which version of the robot he/she would like to make (I'm a fan of the first season "monochromatic" look on the B9, myself).

Functioning accordion arm sections would be nice, but if not feasible, then have both arms molded in both retracted or extended versions so the modeler can create a pose that is one or the other or a combination of both.

An opening "soil analysis" door w/probe on the tread section would be cool, but not mandatory.

The bubble should be articulated to raise or lower (a small spring?) and the torso should be able to be spun on it's base 360 degrees. Treads with rolling wheels would be great, especially for those looking to motorize their B9.

That's what I'd like to see, but would settle for just an accurate, well-engineered model.

Leave out any lighting, sound or animation features, leave those to the talented aftermarket producers.

Needs to be 1/4 scale. Maybe 1/5th.
1/6th is borderline. How tall is B9? Maybe 1/4 is too big...

Accurate to one season or another is most important. Swappable parts would be cool, but accuracy is more important. Don't want flailing arms.

Would really like to see some justice done to B9. The Aurora/PL kit was not good in so many ways.

Lunar Models made a nice B9 in Resin. About a foot tall.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/509/thumbs/LunarB9.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/26854)

1/6 is perfect for size and probable cost, at around a foot tall. Articulated arms and head are unnecesary and expensive. But a rotating waist wouldn't be a big deal to mold.

Perfect accuracy is required, of course. ;)

I like the idea of a choice of extended or retracted arms, and rolling rubber treads.

No lightning bolt, please. :)

I'd jump at the chance to get my hands on a 1/6 B-9.

Glenn :)

I'll take two!

If it was done with the attention to detail that Moebius is becoming known for, at 1/6, I'm in.

i'd definately go for a 1/6 scale B-9 !! :thumbsup:
oshkosh put forth some really cool ideas there with the interchangeable parts .
hb

Scale isn't my primary concern, but I would like it big enough that the smallest details could still be painted by the average guy (without a microscope)

also the bubble needs to be big enough that it can still be moulded in one piece (with base plate, like the "real thing" ) the biggest distraction in all existing kits is that seam line in the two piece bubbles

. . . also the bubble needs to be big enough that it can still be moulded in one piece (with base plate, like the "real thing" ) the biggest distraction in all existing kits is that seam line in the two piece bubblesThe problem with molding a one-piece bubble isn't size, it's draft (shaping the parts without undercuts so they can be popped out of the mold). The only way to make a single-piece bubble would be with a complex multi-part mold, like those used for model car bodies. And that would add significantly to the tooling costs.

Unless there's another way to do it. Any injection molding experts in the house?

well, I didn't say it would be easy:wave:
could it be vacformed?

Definitely in 1/6th scale or bigger.With all necassary parts for possible lighting to be made in clear plastic.Which would include the triangular brain in the bubble.Two sets of styrene arms,one retracted and one extended.Possible 3rd pair of arms made in rubber like material for those who want to make it an action robot with moving arms.Rotating torso,of course,two options of tracks,one in plastic for static display and rubber tracks for those who want to motorize it.I guess that on the inside part of the foot of the robot,a plastic mounting could be molded for a possible future motor to be added by the modeler himself.As far as making the bubble head part of the robot in one piece,don't forget that the brain part of the robot goes inside first,so forget about it.The bubble could be made however of a as thin as possible plastic for that scale though.Is there a transparent substance that exists on the market that would,when applied between those two half bubble parts,blend in and make that seam virtually disappear.:)

The bigger the better and put me down for at least two......

I'm in!

DANGER PENNY ROBINSON!!! WARNING YOUR TOP IS SLIPPING!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/stev123/DSCF0465.jpg

I'm in!

DANGER PENNY ROBINSON!!! WARNING YOUR TOP IS SLIPPING!!


so um. how long you been playing with dolls?

I want a B9 with an accurate interior.

(seriously a large articulated B9 with the possibility of adding electronics and servos would be cool. Next step in modeling: robotics)

well, I didn't say it would be easy:wave:
could it be vacformed?

'fraid not, Lou. A lot of the same problems with injection molding this piece would also occur with vacuforming. You still have that nasty undercut that would prevent you from pulling the vacuform master from the vacuform part.

There's just no easy way to make that bubble a one piece affair.

In spite of that I too would like to see an accurate B9 robot kit. The old Aurora kit is one of my favorites but it's incredibly inaccurate.

However, with all the kits Moebius is putting out I don't know where I'd find the time to build one. Won't stop me from buying one if Frank decides to produce one.

I'd be getting 2, no matter what scale they're in, because I like both paint jobs for different reasons.
This is why I have 2 different LM versions of it; they make excellent "matching bookends", too!

I've heard that 1:6 scale is a standard figure scale(12"). In fact, Sci-Fi Metro make LiS figures in this scale. Count me in, as long as the thing is accurate. If it's just an upscaled Aurora, I'll pass.

Has to be 1/6 scale; I have the Sci Fi Metropolis 1/6 John Robinson, Dr. Smith and Keeper and there are already 1/5-1/4 scale LIS and Robby figure/kits from Japan that are nice enough. There's a HUGE range of sci fi, movie and TV figures available in 1/6 scale and so far we've never seen the LIS Robot done in this scale. That said, if anyone's gonna do it I wish Moebius would and it sounds like this idea is not anywhere near the top of their list of projects to do...

For the record, I agree completely.

Lunar Models made a nice B9 in Resin. About a foot tall.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/509/thumbs/LunarB9.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/26854)

I have one, built in 1996. Used a Doll Display case to keep it safe.

I have the Robby and Gort too. How about "John" from Voyage to a prehistoric planet?

...perhaps the ultimate bubble head for that kit would come from after market folks using rubber molds that allow for some undercut.

I would totally buy a few of these... and would probably come out with improved bubble head part...

My key suggestion would be extreme lighting freindliness.

No way to mold that bubble at all. Even multi-part molds leave seems - look at an F-15 canopy on a hasegawa kit.

A seemless bubble has to be blown, not molded.

I'm thinking the same thing, the bubble would have to be molded in two parts. Having said that , I've seen some dang near seamless bottles that folks have done. using future floor wax iirc..

I would like to see the arms done in multiple shorter segmants, straight and curved with plug/notch connectors so they could be assembled into differne compound curve shapes and later changed if need be.
Lightable stuff for inside the bubble would be nice, and of course the soil sampler door and probe.

One question- I have been watching the show on ALN recently and there seemed to be a bunch of moving parts inside the dome which in later shows did not seem to move much- does anybody know deatails about it? I was thinking it could have been like the Klingon BOP wings- the internal motors eventually gave out and they just kept in in a single position after a certain point.

.

lol..you guys and your LARGE size kits...WHERE do you all find the room to display them???..I have to stick with the basic scales...I will not adorn my living room, kitchen, or dining room with those big kits..but if you all can, and wish to , all the best to you...

One question- I have been watching the show on ALN recently and there seemed to be a bunch of moving parts inside the dome which in later shows did not seem to move much- does anybody know deatails about it? I was thinking it could have been like the Klingon BOP wings- the internal motors eventually gave out and they just kept in in a single position after a certain point.

.

The official story was that the Inner bubble and sensor parts were intended to always be functional, but the noise that they constantly made was interfeering with the sound track, while filming, so they had to dispense with those parts constantly moving..

Z

The official story was that the Inner bubble and sensor parts were intended to always be functional, but the noise that they constantly made was interfeering with the sound track, while filming, so they had to dispense with those parts constantly moving..

Z
I liked the moving effect- like the head of Robby it shows the sensors examining the area and doing thinking stuff.
Robby and the B-9 were both designed by the same guy?

.

No way to mold that bubble at all. Even multi-part molds leave seems - look at an F-15 canopy on a hasegawa kit.Except that when a hollow part is molded using an inner plug and two outer mold halves, as would be the case if the B-9's bubble were to be done in one piece, the seam is only on the OUTSIDE of the part, making it much easier to sand and polish smooth. When you glue two clear parts together, the seam is well nigh impossible to hide completely.I liked the moving effect- like the head of Robby it shows the sensors examining the area and doing thinking stuff.
Robby and the B-9 were both designed by the same guy?Yes. His name is Robert Kinoshita. There's a definite family resemblance between the two robots -- although B-9 looks a bit like Robby's cousin from the wrong side of the tracks.I have the Robby and Gort too. How about "John" from Voyage to a prehistoric planet?I've always wanted a model of that big Russian automaton with the bell-jar head. He may not have been as articulate as Robby or B-9, but he was STRONG LIKE BULL!

yes. blown into a negative mold! the opposite of vac forming over a positive buck.

what we need is more glass blowers in this arena!

Except that when a hollow part is molded using an inner plug and two outer mold halves, as would be the case if the B-9's bubble were to be done in one piece, the seam is only on the OUTSIDE of the part, making it much easier to sand and polish smooth.

Okay, but how do they get the inner plug out if the opening is smaller than the inside of the bubble?

I would definatly prefer a B-9 in 1/6 scale.

As many have stated, 1/6 is one of the most popular figure scale.

There is a huge 12 figure market.

B-9 and Robby please.

Okay, but how do they get the inner plug out if the opening is smaller than the inside of the bubble?You know, that's a good question. It couldn't work that way, could it?

How do they mold those one-piece model car bodies that have undercuts?

You can have a multi-piece mold for car bodies but that does not work for this dome shape.

Car bodies are done with a cavity - the roof and tops of fenders & trunk - 4 slides front rear and sides - and a core that makes the inner surface of the finished body.
If necessary the core can be made of three or four parts so that it can "collapse" as it is withdrawn from the finished part.
Polar lights Scooby doo Mystery machine used a collapsing core...

Dave

Speaking of the Mystery machine, were there any aftermarket parts for that kit?

I'd like the kit to feature pliable material for the arms and legs. The feet should be separate. I'd also prefer it to have an artists mannequin-like skeleton, so as to be able to easily pose the model.

Bob May's head & torso to go inside a "bubble off" build up.:lol:

Count me in on a 1:6 scale model with limited articulation. bubble rotate, waist rotate, claws open/close, roller wheels on the bottom, and maybe arm black accordion silicone sleeves, so the arms can contract, and extend, maybe elbow bend.

I've got plenty of B-9s in other scales, but a 1:6 one would fit in with all my other 1:6 scale figures from sideshow and others.

I think the dome on the TV robot has a largish opening on the bottom so they could fit all the interior parts inside. So its not like you you need the whole dome with just a small hole for the neck. A slide mold would work to get a smooth top/side curve, and then you would just have a plug in part for the bottom. Not a big deal really.

I'm no plastic tooling engineer but I do know several really sharp injection molding people and we've talked about this kind of problem.
In my opinion there is no good way to inject that bubble as a single piece and have it look anything like the real item...
Look at the shape of the bubble.....If you assume that the core will have the same general shape as the bubble itself -which would have to be the case to maintain a fairly uniform wall thickness for the finished part - then there is no way to put a one piece mold core inside that bubble - inject plastic in the tool and then remove the core - BECAUSE the hole in the bottom of the bubble would be SMALLER than the outer circumfrence of the bubble and thence the core at it's mid-point.
If, on the other hand, you make the bubble as one piece with a straight sided core then you'll end up with an unacceptably thick section around the sides of the bubble that will look absolutely nasty and cause problems with material shrinkage in the finished part! Thus this solution does not work...
A collapsing core won't work either because it will leave several mold line inside the part that cannot be removed easily!

The real bubble on the real robot is probably is a blown part just as real F-15 and F-16 canopies are blown items. Someone already explained that process in an earlier post..

Making blown bubbles for a 1/6 robot kit might present a significant cost hurdle...

In my opinion the only practical way to produce the bubble as injection molded parts is to make it as two parts....Just as the original Aurora / Polar Lights kits did it..

I see no other practical / cost effective solution to the problem.....

Dave

Thanks for your input Dave, I'm sure you are better versed in this than most.

Tell you what, tho, I'd almost rather the two pieces be right and left than top and bottom. with right and left you could turn the seam to be "away" from the viewer but with top and bottom , there's just no escaping it

Or maybe right, left and a bottom plate. that way you could do all of the construction of the brain units on top of the base. then enclose the whole shebang with the right and left pieces when you've finished it.

A thousand years ago I read somewhere that the bubble for the robot was blown and then the top was simply pressed down by hand until the desired shape was arrived at. It was a trial and error process. Be interesting to check the 1:1 robot replica build sites to see if there's any info on how the replica parts are made. As far as scale modeling goes, I've never come across anything on blowing plastic. The only way I can think of to replicate a hollow bubble would be either vac form or resin casting, both methods using something akin to the lost wax modeling technique. While the outer form could be two halves to release the bubble, the inner form would either have to be totally destroyed to remove it from inside the bubble or it would have to consist of maybe 5 parts, 4 outers and a core, finished perfectly smoothly on the outside but able to split apart into its components for removal. Neither blowing and pressing or the removable inner mold lends itself to mass production.
The only way to get a seamless bubble "mass" produced is a resin casting capturing the bubble's interior permanently inside, and while producing a bubble free crystal clear casting isn't easy (you need either a vac chamber or a pressure chamber), it is possible, and maybe there is a skilled after market person out there who will undertake it.
Question: which seam would be least obtrusive and easiest to clean up - the robot's styrene bubble split horizontally or split vertically? I'm thinking vertically. ??

I would be interested in a large scale B-9 - My only requirement would be accuracy, as many others have stated.

A thousand years ago I read somewhere that the bubble for the robot was blown and then the top was simply pressed down by hand until the desired shape was arrived at. It was a trial and error process. Be interesting to check the 1:1 robot replica build sites to see if there's any info on how the replica parts are made. As far as scale modeling goes, I've never come across anything on blowing plastic. The only way I can think of to replicate a hollow bubble would be either vac form or resin casting, both methods using something akin to the lost wax modeling technique. While the outer form could be two halves to release the bubble, the inner form would either have to be totally destroyed to remove it from inside the bubble or it would have to consist of maybe 5 parts, 4 outers and a core, finished perfectly smoothly on the outside but able to split apart into its components for removal. Neither blowing and pressing or the removable inner mold lends itself to mass production.


That's basically how it happened. The plastic was heated then blown into a sphere. While still hot the sphere was pressed between two pieces of wood to give the B9 his distinctive bubble. As Dave mentioned in his previous post there is no way to capture this piece as a single injection molded part.

Truthfully, I've lived with the two piece Aurora bubble for years and it really doesn't bother me. I mean that kit has so many glaring inaccuracies that do bother me I don't fret over a seam in the bubble.

The bubbletops can be blowmolded by the billions.

Well, I would only want it if it had a full INTERIOR as seen in TRIP THROUGH THE ROBOT where Will and Dr. Smith crawled inside a greatly enlarged Robot.

Or if it had the lower deck of the Jupiter II somehow built into it.

:)

If anyone ever makes a commerically available kit of this, count me in -- and the more accurate, the better. Various "season" versions within same kit would be a plus.