Hey all, I'm not done yet but I am going to use this thread to show the hemi Cuda as I go. I need some advice too so instead of making a million other threads I'd appreciate it if you could help :).

Here it is so far:

Took some of the advice from the other threads and soaked the pieces in dish detergent and luke warm water for about a half hour. Dried off the pieces. Then I painted the inner wheels flat gray (couldn't think of what else to paint it with). Then I glossed the engine, which looks like a halloween spoof *sigh* not intended. Gloss black on the tranny and valve covers. Orange for the rest. I also sanded down the louvers because they got a little messed up. So I just repainted that flat black
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q293/SoleSky/Tiresengine.jpg

I sanded and repainted the hood and the shell of the Cuda with yellow Tamiya. Going to paint the hood pins tomorrow.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q293/SoleSky/body.jpg

Painted the spoiler and shaker hood flat black. Had to sand the shaker and I attempted to dry brush paint it. Which turned out "okay" I guess. Anyway, that's whats done so far.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q293/SoleSky/shakerspoiler.jpg





The question I had for you all was how do I paint the "hemicuda" logo on the shaker hood white? It is really small and I don't know how to go about doing it. Let me know any advice you have please :)

The best possible way, I can think of, to add the logo to the shaker would be to purchase or make a decal for it. Maybe there is a dry transfer available somewhere.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee54/philo426/2009_0424Spock0011.jpg

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee54/philo426/2009_0424Spock0021.jpg

Yeah, I'm wondering if I sand the shaker again and then paint it some silvery color then tape over it and attempt to paint around it if it would work. I may just try it, I mean there is no harm in experiments

If you know about bare metal foil, there is a tutorial about how to do body scripts here.....


http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/instruction_sheetsh/tips_and_tricks/painting/near-perfect-script/

that's clever. Do you think it would work on such fine detail as the lettering on the air scoop shaker thing?

Yes, it should work. The only problem I can see is if there is already too much primer/paint or if sanding may have softened the detail.
Otherwise the other alternative is once again, dry-brushing.
Or as was mentioned, check out ebay for decals. Not sure if Fred Cady made anything for the shaker or if something is available from a kit.
Chris

You could order some photo-etched parts for the Hemi Cuda from Model Car Garage if you have already sanded the scripts too far down to apply the bare metal foil.

http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=11&idproduct=321#details

Thanks guys! I need bare metal foil anyway so why not try it out? Thats a really good idea though. I'll see about ordering some

Great work. 'Aint tamiya paint nice?
If the script on the hood is still legible (detail is sharp) you could try a very fine silver paint pen and carefully just brush it over the logo.

Steve

Yes I can still see the logo very well, I might try a thin brush,I'd need to get one though :)

I made a little scratch in the hood of the cuda while sanding it, any tips? Another layer of paint?

Try polishing it first. If it's too deep you'll need to sand it out before the next coat anyway.

Polishing? Sorry this is a stupid question, but what would I need to do that and how should I do it? Im still new at this modeling hobby :)

Yeah I'm sorry. With superfine wet sandpaper or polishing compound.

Not sure what you have access to, but I like this stuff. (http://www.micromark.com/SOFT-TOUCH-PAD-SET-SET-OF-6,7787.html)

Use it like wet sandpaper and it's up to 12,000 grit. At 8,000 or 12,000 it polishes.

wow nice. Can I get that at like home depot?

wow nice. Can I get that at like home depot?

I don't think so. They have wet sandpaper but only up to a few thousand grit. That's still too coarse to polish; it'll sand but leave the surface dull requiring another coat of paint.

An auto parts store might have something similar. I haven't used auto polishing compounds; I don't know if these would be too harsh for model enamels and acrylics. Maybe someone else has tried them.

Micro Mark (the link above) has a lot of unique stuff.

I didn't occur to me to polish a painted model until I saw someone using these a few years ago. Apparently it's standard procedure on models and real cars to get a mirror finish after painting.

Cool, I'll stop by pep-boys and see, if not i'll see about getting some from the link you sent me, when i have money anyway. Thanks :)

Finished the Hemi engine :), apologize for poor quality phone pictures

Looks good! yeah, a regular digital camera runs circles around cell phone cameras.

Thanks, and yeah. I will see about finding the digital camera my brother lost. It was actually one I bought awhile back, it's pretty much the dinosaur of all digital cameras but it still takes (took) good pictures. Plus the phone is quicker for me.

Even an older digital cameras usually have a "macro" mode that allows you to take shots within a few inches of the subject.

I find these really helpful to see things that otherwise i might not notice. The camera is a lot more "critical" than the eye... or something like that.

very true, although my quest to find it has proven difficult. I will use my grandmas digital camera next weekend though because we're going out to do a photoshoot of my boyfriends car.

Just an update, finished the chassis. Wheels got a little messed up so I'm going to try to strip them. Either with paint thinner or oven cleaner like Chris recommended.

Here's a pic.

Looking good Alyssa. I really can't see the problem with the wheels though, not enough light to tell. Anyway, I like how it's coming out.
Chris

Thanks, sanded the hood after using nail polish remover. Happy that it worked and didn't deform anything, I thought long and hard about using it then said what the heck and tried. Thankfully everything worked out according to plan.

Whats the best way to sand corners? or get deep into little "vents". My hood has the heat extractor things in the back and some of the paint got into it, was wondering how I can get that out. Also I'm having a difficult time sanding around corners and hood pins. Any advice?
-Alyssa

Alyssa, your hobbyshop should stock Flexigrit sanding sticks. They have a point on one end that'll allow you to get into tight spots. When I'm sanding a pat like a body panel I like to do the fiddly bits like corners, edges, and raised bodylines first. Then I'll do the flat areas. This helps to stop ridges forming in the panels (I hope this makes sense:o).
It's probably already been suggested, but it'd be a good idea to look for Scale Auto magazine at your newsagents. There's heaps of tips and info in them as well as sources for products specifically designed for model car kits. I'm sure you could find cheap secondhand back issues if you ask around. They're a really valuable source of reference and very highly recommended.:thumbsup:
Your 'Cuda's coming along well!! The engine's looking great so far.

Chris.:)

Thanks Chris, I need to find another Hobbyshop though. ActionHobby here closed down and I think the nearest one is in Philly which is about an hour away. I might start ordering stuff online if I can get it for a reasonable price. I sanded the shell and hood. The hood is looking a little bit dull though, and you can still kind of see where I sanded it. Unfortunately I ran out of yellow paint so I need to go to Michaels and see if I can get the same color. As for the body I'll just put on a clear coat for now and see what I can start finishing. Appreciate your help.
-Alyssa

Alyssa:

A few helpful items you could get at Wal-Mart until you find your new hobbyshop.

Look for the four sided sanding sponges in the nail polish area that are for buffing nail polish to a high gloss finish. Although not quite as fine, these are basically the same as the polishing pads.

Also, in the auto body section look for a tube of Meguiars Scratch X. This works really well for the last step in polishing paint.

Thank you, I actually stopped by Michael's today and got some clear coat, and a new model

A new model??? What did you get pray tell!
So with the clear coat I would be under the assumption it is Testors.
Quintillis is right, those nail files work great for about anything. I've also heard scratch X is the thing too, although I have yet to try it.
Chris

Yep testors clear coat. I got a 1968 Mustang Bullitt. can't wait to get started, almost done with the hemi cuda. Any place I can get bare metal foil that actually works without paying more for shipping because I'd have to pay like 2 dollars more than the actual BMF just to ship it. Let me know, thanks :)

Yep testors clear coat. I got a 1968 Mustang Bullitt. can't wait to get started, almost done with the hemi cuda. Any place I can get bare metal foil that actually works without paying more for shipping because I'd have to pay like 2 dollars more than the actual BMF just to ship it. Let me know, thanks :)

Again, not quite as fine (or as thin) as BMF, the aluminum tape used for taping the seams on ducts is a pretty good alternative. Available at all hardware stores. The cheaper stuff you can find, the thinner the foil will be.


http://www.electrotape.com/pics/a-foiltapes.jpg (http://www.electrotape.com/aluminum-foil-tape/aluminum-foil-tape-500.html)

Yeah, that would be good enough for me. As an alternative anyway, I'd like to use that.

Update on the Cuda. Mostly finished the body work. Need the bare metal foil on, compliments of Chris, thanks! Also need to paint the door handle. Bare metal foil the rest and paint the lights. Enjoy!

Looks good!

(find your camera or is that still the cell phone? looks pixilated. If it's a camera maybe try a lower ISO setting (or more light if on auto).)

It's my camera, It was bigger but I had to decrease the size because of too many pixels. Also thanks!

So you got the bmf already? Quicker than I thought if true.
Look forward to seeing you foil. It'll take practice. Just be careful of the wrinkles. It's not the best sheet, but it should work for the small areas you are doing.
Chris

Thanks Chris, I'll be working on it tomorrow

How could I make the hood fit around the shaker?

How could I make the hood fit around the shaker?
Not sure what you are asking here. Is the shaker not fitting through the hood? It might be a final assembly thing or something not sitting right.
Honestly couldn't tell you since I haven't got one on hand or even built one.

Chris

Well, I tried reassembling the carburators. it seemed to have work. It just doesn't sit down on it all of the way.

You may need to enlarge or alter the opening in the hood with a file. (emery boards are handy. So I'm told.)

Okay, Just an update. I tried out some bare metal foil. Needs some touching up still but I'm not done yet. Just thought I'd update you with a little pictures. I still need to add decals, and foil the windows anyway, enjoy

That looks pretty darn good for your first time out with BMF! See, I told you practicing would help. Now, like with everything else, the more you do the better you'll be!

So, are you going to start on the Bullitt??

Chris

Thanks Chris, yeah, I'll work on the Bullitt as soon as I finish the Cuda, I might need to custom order some paint for it though. We'll see. Thanks for the comment :)

you painted the reverse lights red... might want to fix that.

Yeah, I thought it looked better. I guess I could fix it though.