I looked thru the board's(hobbytalk archive's)and u find a little here,a little there!But i still have ?'s(the rear axel gear),can someone or many people exsplain to me the different rear gear's and there app's(afx non-mag,magnatraction,j.l.,aw.,)are the gear's that come standard on these car's good for anything,good after market brand's,the #teeth for road course VS long straight away tracks.(i keep my track simple 2 8 1/2 straight's) The use of "which tyco "or"super g plus"altered gear's for afx mag,non mag.The spacer's too!Or just anything "REAR GEAR RELATED".Thank's:thumbsup:

Afx mag & non-mag, AW/JL XT are pretty much the same. I think they have 19 teeth. Aurora tjet gears have all of the spacer behind the teeth, Tuff-Ones/ JL/AW Tjets are similiar to AFX. No real need to hop up.

I believe the Afx mag and non-mag have a 15 tooth rear. The Super II had a 19 tooth rear and many people put them in the mags and non-mags. a 15 tooth rear will give you top end a 19 tooth will give you holeshot.

Ok, thanks, have them confused.

For the record, I have not had good luck with the JL/AW crown gears. While they may appear to be similar to an original Tuff Ones or AFX crown I have not had good luck with them in my 14 tooth brass pinion conversions. I think thay are made out of play-doh.

For the record, I have not had good luck with the JL/AW crown gears. While they may appear to be similar to an original Tuff Ones or AFX crown I have not had good luck with them in my 14 tooth brass pinion conversions. I think thay are made out of play-doh.

Bill

Have you ever converted an Aurora AFX driven gear pinion to brass from plastic. I have some gear plates with a lot of slop and was thinking about changing the plastic to brass. If you have made this swap, what is the best way of drilling the rivet without tearing up the hole in the gear plate?

Thanks if you can help.

A good site with chassis photos and diagrams.
http://www.modelmotorist.com/web-content/idchass.jsp#aurora

As far as Aurora goes the original T-jets had a 9 tooth drive pinion gear with a 15 tooth crown gear. The crown gear has a spacer opposite the teeth that butts up against the chassis. This allows the crown to mesh with the pinion gear. When they went to the wild or tuff ones chassis, they switched to a 14 tooth drive pinion gear. I believe the crown was still 15 tooth, but there was no spacer behind. This allowed the crown to mesh with the larger drive pinion gear. I only have T-jets, but I think the standard AFX non-magnatraction and magnatraction chassis used the same rear gear setup as the tuff or wild ones chassis. I don't have any J/L or AW chassis, so can't comment on them either. Hope this helps.

For the record, I have not had good luck with the JL/AW crown gears. While they may appear to be similar to an original Tuff Ones or AFX crown I have not had good luck with them in my 14 tooth brass pinion conversions. I think thay are made out of play-doh.

I have a couple of JL/AW Tjets that I have swapped over to brass gears with a 9 tooth driven gear (Basically standard Aurora Tjet stuff). Makes the cars a lot smoother to drive. Can't say that I have had any trouble with the crown gears. I know that some of them are sloppier than a drive through Whopper and look like they are doing the Can Can shaking back and forth..
But as long as they drive the car forward I live with it...

I've done my share of AW 9 tooth conversions. If you put in an Aurora crown with the 9 tooth pinion it tightens up the slop back there.

Bill

Have you ever converted an Aurora AFX driven gear pinion to brass from plastic. I have some gear plates with a lot of slop and was thinking about changing the plastic to brass. If you have made this swap, what is the best way of drilling the rivet without tearing up the hole in the gear plate?

Thanks if you can help.

Argueablly not the greatest design to start with ohno. The shaft is secured with only the riveted end...so in that regard the wobble was already built in in my mind...LOL! What you have is a floating cluster supported on one end. The shaft remains static. The engineers took some tonnage out here when compared to the T-jet.

At first glance, to attempt a brass conversion, the main headache is that the driven gear would have to be relieved for the driven shaft's button head. Also remember that the pinion is easily half again as thick as any other gear. The driven and pinion must be fixed together and rotate freely. They cannot be press fit to a static shaft!

Certainly anything is doable... even tricky stuff, but to what end is your time worth? Gear plates are readily available. If memory serves someone HAS tinkered with this but dogged if I remember who it was.

My personal observation is that the "skeezing" rear drive portion of the original AFX and XT style chassis can be fixed with a few carefully calculated taps on the rivet/ and attentive shimming of the crown gear to ensure a proper mesh.

I've done my share of AW 9 tooth conversions. If you put in an Aurora crown with the 9 tooth pinion it tightens up the slop back there.

Any tips? It looks tough to do without trashing parts or even get good gear mesh.

My personal observation is that the "skeezing" rear drive portion of the original AFX and XT style chassis can be fixed with a few carefully calculated taps on the rivet/ and attentive shimming of the crown gear to ensure a proper mesh.

This is wise advise. Need to buy some smaller punches than I have typically used for my 1:1 cars. Actually, I need to buy a whole new miniature tool set.

Any tips? It looks tough to do without trashing parts or even get good gear mesh.

Not a difficult conversion at all. Pry the top back gear off with a screw driver. Pull the plastic pinion and cheezy AW shaft off the plate. Having a dremel make this next part easier.. Chuck up a 1/16 bit and drill the chassis where the pinion sits. Then drill the top plate and drill the hole favoring the back of the chassis. (you really need to ream backwards a little as you drill the top plate) The Aurora pinion shaft is bigger than the AW; so to keep it centered the hole needs to be set back a bit or the top gears will bind. Pull the back axle out, replace with an Aurora crown. Stick the pinion in the chassis hole, place the top plate on, and push the AW cluster gear on the shaft. You should be good to go!!

Any tips? It looks tough to do without trashing parts or even get good gear mesh.

Hahahahahahahahaha OMG dats funny ohno!

A worse mesh than stock?

Maybe if you used golf clubs and a lawn mower for the conversion.

All kiddin' aside it's quite easy to do.

Maybe if you used golf clubs and a lawn mower for the conversion.

Well crap...... THAT'S what I've been doing wrong for goodness sakes.... I've been using a putty knife and a turkey baster.

Uuuumm, Marty said turkey... :)

Soaking the driver in tequila doesn't help the gear mesh but after awhile, the driver doesn't care.:drunk::hat::freak::dude::tongue:

I looked thru the board's(hobbytalk archive's)and u find a little here,a little there!But i still have ?'s(the rear axel gear),can someone or many people exsplain to me the different rear gear's and there app's(afx non-mag,magnatraction,j.l.,aw.,)are the gear's that come standard on these car's good for anything,good after market brand's,the #teeth for road course VS long straight away tracks.(i keep my track simple 2 8 1/2 straight's) The use of "which tyco "or"super g plus"altered gear's for afx mag,non mag.The spacer's too!Or just anything "REAR GEAR RELATED".Thank's:thumbsup:

Sorry we digressed. The changeable rear ratio was a normal thing back in the t-jet days. 9-12-14 were the tooth counts. 9 was the first and original gear, 12 being the later hop up gear, and 14 came stock on the tuffones. The 12 tooth was lost in the shuffle. I've aquired a few in parts lots and find them to be quite tractable on the home track where the 14 is too leggy. The 9 tooth is great in that it allows for oversized wheel and tire combinations and retains somre driveability. The 14 tooth is the freeway flyer gear and will overwork or stress out armatures to which they are not matched or intended.

As previously mentioned the final drive on the AFX is pretty well preset with regards to the pinion. People do however change the crown to a higher tooth count ...like a super ll crown for example. I've seen other higher tooth count crowns crammed in but it does involve some chassis trimmage.

Modern inlines afford great oppurtunity for ratio tinkerage. The snap axle set ups allow a person to set up different gear ratio and tire combinations and have it in reserve at the flick of a finger.

Ultimately the fine "tunage" on any drive ratio is tire profile. Setting up requires time and attention. With repetition you'll get to know what works on your track or tracks that you frequent.

And thank you all once again,tip's,history and good humor!:wave::thumbsup: