Ok so I just got off the phone with a lady at Krylon and have found out what was causing my wrinkling issues when two toning a car. If you have used krylon before you have noticed that the cans have changed. In changing the can they changed the name from "interior/exterior" to "indoor/outdoor". That is not where the changing ends. They changed the paint from a lacquer base to an enamel based. This speeds up the drying process but not the curing process. The lady told me you can spray multiple light coats on within an hour. However, those of you who two tone cars know this is not enough time to tape the car off and spray another coat of a different color. This is where the problem is caused. After that hour, the paint may feel dry but it is not. As soon as you shoot another coat on the previously shot paint gets re-wet and wrinkles. The lady told me that the curing process could take anywhere from 2-3 days. This sucks I know cause if you are like me I start painting the night before a race and clear coat in the car on the way there (JOKING BUT YOU GET MY POINT). So I guess if you want to paint with the new krylon be prepared for the project to take a least a week. I'm going to try to re-paint my body again (3rd time is the charm right?) and let you know what my results are. If they work kudos to krylon for putting people on the other end of the phone line who actually know what they are talking about...if not screw krylon!

Drew Kreibich
www.rchora.com

Thanks for the heads up, Drew. I have made occasional use of Krylon. All of my existing stock is the old stuff but it is getting time for replacement.

By the way, you have a cool web-site. Nice design work. :thumbsup:

Would a food dehydrator help? Just curious as I paint (not very well) lexan bodies and use a food dehydrator to help speed up the process.

not sure if it would help...also dont have one :D I thought about putting it under a light to heat it up for a bit. However I think I'm going to just take the safe approach and wait until sunday or monday to spray my coat of black on. I have stripped this body 3 times in a week and at $10.49 for a bottle of scalecoat II i'm not looking at doing it again :)

Back in the day when I was cranking out customs, and after i screwed up about a dozen jobs here and there, I decided to start doing three to five bods at the same time. This way i could get things staggered in the building department allowing me to always have something to work on. You'll find once you get going, you'd have build ups in various stages from strippping to the final clearcoat and everything inbetween. This way when it came paint time, i could always allow a good day or so for paint curing when using some of those paints that never seemed to want to dry. Then I started using Dupli Color. ;) This was a good move since I'm a can man. :)

:thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

In the colder months I use a lamp to warm up freshly painted bodies. I'm not looking to speed up drying... just trying to facilitate normal drying in the warmer more optimal temp range paint seems to like. Nothing too terribly aggressive... I just place them near a 60 watt bulb. Too much heat and you may cause unwanted sag in the paint. Light coats ALWAYS. Brand choice for paint makes a BIG difference though. Tamiya has a good stretch over bodies for me and drys pretty quick. I have a can of Duplicolor to try for my next victim. Small cans can be pricey, so I can see the point of trying to use the larger Krylon type. nd

Djag blagit!!!

Krylon lacquer was one of those refreshing things in life that worked - and worked right - at reasonable cost and low effort. Why fix it when it ain't frippin' broke?

Enamel? :freak: Give me a very large break! If I wanted enamel I'd have used Rustoleum. [Sound effects: Pac Man shriveling and dying sound]

-- D

Djag blagit!!!

Krylon lacquer was one of those refreshing things in life that worked - and worked right - at reasonable cost and low effort. Why fix it when it ain't frippin' broke?

Enamel? :freak: Give me a very large break! If I wanted enamel I'd have used Rustoleum. [Sound effects: Pac Man shriveling and dying sound]

-- D

LOL! Agreed!

...and now I know why I had to strip and repaint my 40 ford P'up 3 freaking times!

I will continue to use duplicolor shorts. Sure, 4-6 dollars a can, but I will shoot A LOT of bods from a single can. Cash well spent. :thumbsup:

...and now I know why I had to strip and repaint my 40 ford P'up 3 freaking times!

I will continue to use duplicolor shorts. Sure, 4-6 dollars a can, but I will shoot A LOT of bods from a single can. Cash well spent. :thumbsup:

And it's fast drying to boot, at least all of the colors I have tried to date. :) rr

I think the label says five days. Anyway I got that from some can of spray paint, and that's what I've been doing for years.

The new krylon dries super fast, but that is just to the touch. however if you start handling the body you finger print it :( grrrr figures they would change it.

Joez I feel you man, I painted one body twice and it wrinkled both times, and I was fed up so I called 1-800-4krylon. hopefully it doesn't do it again!

throw any can of paint into hot tap water, till the paint inside is heated thru. The light coats are easier to lay down cause the paint flows a little better, also with the heat the spray has a little more umph, (atomization). Duplicolor has worked for years for me, I buy it cause it's the real car color, and they do have special effects paint that's pretty good also. Krylon/Rustoleum never cured for me, a body painted a year ago gets run for one race and turns grey and brown from the dirt on you hands and the clear dulls, awefull stuff. Couldn't polish it back to original either. Never had that problem with the automotive paints, got lucky working in a collision shop for eighteen years. The wrinkling/crazing is usually cause you have an open edge of paint. But some acyrlic enamels and urithains and lacquers can "attack" themselves if left to long inbetween coats to. But back to the first statement, if your going to spray enamel, heat it up. The old timers used to put thier mixed paint on a hotplate to heat it up for spraying light coats, so it would flow and dry faster. Heating up the "rattle-can" should be done no matter what paint is in it.

I thought everyone heated their shakey cans?
I fill the bathroom sink with hot water and stand several cans in it.
After five minutes, I head to the slotcave, roll a couple of the cans in a towel to preserve the heat while I spray the first of them. I still have heated paint after a half hour and move on to the next one.

Works GREAT! :thumbsup:

That's a great idea, why didn't I ever think of that? I havn't painted a body in years, but am really looking to do it again.

What do you guys use to strip the bodies? Dave

Dave I use ScaleCoat II Wash Away...It doesn't eat the styrene (spelling?) plastic...others might eat the plastic away and you will be left with a deformed body...unless that's what you are going for :D

Drew Kreibich
www.rchora.com

Per Goodwrenchintimidators tip, Ive been using denatured alcohol to strip tycos. Its worked on most all Ive tried, but there was one '60 'Vette in the Wipeout hot rods trip that refused to come off worth a damn. But everything else, it works great. An old toothbrush for the flat broad areas, and a toothpick for the crevasses and it works great. Doesnt hurt the plastic either.

Per Goodwrenchintimidators tip, Ive been using denatured alcohol to strip tycos. Its worked on most all Ive tried, but there was one '60 'Vette in the Wipeout hot rods trip that refused to come off worth a damn. But everything else, it works great. An old toothbrush for the flat broad areas, and a toothpick for the crevasses and it works great. Doesnt hurt the plastic either.

The kellogs monte carlo with the starbust on the trunk is another SOB to strip, Just let it soak an use a rag soaked in DA and some elbo grease ever few hours an you will get that vette stripped

The kellogs monte carlo with the starbust on the trunk is another SOB to strip, Just let it soak an use a rag soaked in DA and some elbo grease ever few hours an you will get that vette stripped


Or use ELO and be done in 15 minutes and not even spill your coffee.. lol...


Dave

I thought everyone heated their shakey cans?
I fill the bathroom sink with hot water and stand several cans in it.
After five minutes, I head to the slotcave, roll a couple of the cans in a towel to preserve the heat while I spray the first of them. I still have heated paint after a half hour and move on to the next one.

Works GREAT! :thumbsup:

Heating up cans of spray paint was the best tip an old time modeler gave me awhile back. Couldn't believe the difference when I first tried warmed spray cans. :eek:

:thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

Back-in-the-day ..... when I used rattle cans, I would nuke water in those red party cups we all remember from college for however many colors I was painting. Then I just kept the cans in the hot water until I was ready to spray.

It worked really well but, wow, I don't miss that. These days you can pick up a Paasche dual-action airbrush from Bear Air (http://http://bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100260) for $59.95. Then pick up a cheap compressor from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93657) for $69.99 --- and it's often on sale for $59. Now you're always in control of the flow of paint and air.

I use the stationary tub in the basement, it holds more hot water, which keeps the paint warmer longer and it's in the basement were I spray.
COACH 61, ELO is that the pactra stuff? If it is I did a Scalelectric 1/32 Cadilac LMP car awhile back and it desolved the car. Left it in for an hour or so as many other cars, but when i went to hit it with a toothrush, the body desoved in my hand, it stunk, but it was actually pretty cool effect, like a special effect in a movie.
I have used Easy Off oven cleaner with great success on styren models, and have had good results using Simple Green (straight from the jug) with even better results. No nasty fumes or stinging hands either.
The air brush is nice, but it does lead to more potential problems.... Was it cleaned out properly the last time it was used, you have to set up and clean up before and after, (and like mentioned in an earlier reply, the race starts in an hour, i got to get this car painted, :) Also dont forget the water trap and regulator $15.00 more. i would use my airbrush more, but i usually dont have that big of a project going, and the convienance of the the rattle can is nice.

will heating up the paint make it cover less? or more runny? I have never tried it and I would have to go to shoot black over red and not have it cover completely and have to coat again with tape already laid down...or will this be fine. I'm new to all of this. I have done small things before but first on my own without any help. So any advice is useful :D thanks to everyone for your responses...

Heating up the paint will make it cover better, and if you keep in mind the paint is going to flow you will be ok if the finish is a little orange peely cause once the paint settles it will dry smooth and flat. If you keep spraying til you have the finished Finish your looking for, in five minutes it will be "Curtians" for you. Sags, runs, drips oh my!

ok thank you :)

It will definitely go on smoother and cover better. I believe it even dries a little faster. :) rr

i just sprayed black over the red and well...it doesnt' cover. It appears to combine with the red and have a wash away effect. I think it will work for what i'm doing, but I wont be using any more krylon paints anymore. Looks like I'll go cheaper and try rustolium!

Drew Kreibich
www.rchora.com