Hello Guys, I have a used Wizzard that I bought & recently it started to slow & then the arm smoked, I am sure its gone. My question is what arms will work as a replacement for these. I run on a routed 4 x 8 oval & an 80 foot tomy road coarse. Both with 10 amp, variable voltage power supplies. I have replaced many arms in G-plus, Tomy, & Tyco 440's just not sure what model arms fit in the wizzard & wether there is a timing issue between different arms. Any info is appreciated.

Thanks

Boosted-Z71

The Tyco timed arm is what you need.
Not sure what the ohm reading is on the Wizzard chassis you have though...

Scott

Welcome to the boards B71!

What Scott said.

Thanks guys I have lurked here for a while & been in on the board for some photo-cell timing Q's on my track build. So if I understand you correctly any tyco or tyco "hot" arm will work as a replacement, Which is a good thing as I have a couple of new hot arms in the tool box now. I will try to get some Ohm readings from the fried arm & compare with the hot arms from there.

Thanks

Boosted

Most Tyco 440 - 440X2 arm will work, stock hot stock, customs. only one's that wont work is in a can motor tyco uses. Shafts to short an one is a battery powered arm. For a great arm try Slottech.net

Most Tyco 440 - 440X2 arm will work, stock hot stock, customs. only one's that wont work is in a can motor tyco uses. Shafts to short an one is a battery powered arm. For a great arm try Slottech.net

Or you could replace it with a Wizzard arm, Like the one that came in the car!

:wave::wave::wave:

not sure what model arms fit in the wizzard & wether there is a timing issue between different arms

Yes, there is a big timing difference between arms used in most "Tomy style" chassis and most "Tyco style" chassis. Generally speaking, if the commutator brushes contact the commutator parallel to the magnetic field alignment of the motor magnets, like this, when looking down the arm shaft:

b-( o )-b

then you have one type of timing, and if the commutator brushes contact the commutator perpendicular to the field alignment of the motor magnets (brushes on top and bottom instead of both sides), you have the other type of timing. The oddball case is where the magnetic field alignment is skewed, which is the case with the old Rokar/Life-Like M chassis, which has the brushes on the side but a "Tomy style" arm.

I am a bit reluctant to say "Tomy style" and "Tyco style" because it is not always the case. The Tomy Mega G has a "Tyco style" arm, as did the original Aurora G-Plus. The Tyco HP7 has a "Tomy style" arm. Unless you are dealing with a Rokar/LL M car, the brush/magnet alignment is an excellent indicator. You can also tell by looking at the arm. If the gap in the commutator plates is very close to dead in the middle of the lamination stack, when looking down the shaft, it is probably a "Tyco style" arm. If the gap is off center a little bit, in the direction of the rotation of the arm, it is probably an advanced timed Tyco style arm. If the gap is off center in the opposite direction as the arm rotates, it is probably a Tomy style arm since there would be little reason to produce a Tyco style arm with retarded timing. (If you want to run with retarded timing, swap the magnets on an advanced timed arm.)

When you do replace the arm, make sure you put in a new set of brushes and a new set of brush springs and go through the proper break-in and brush seating procedure.

The replacement arms from Wizzard have the correct
shaft length and spacing for Wizzard cars.The Wizzard
and the Tyco arms are both made by Mabuchi .

If you are running a SuperStock Wizzard then I highly recommend the

SP04PAL Hot Stock Storm Vortex armature NO epoxy (advanced timing) Light

You can get them for $12 at Wizzardho.com.

They seem to outperform most of my other arms in the superstock range (over 6.0 ohm) and I have most of those mentioned except the Slottech.com arms... I might have to try them but the SP04PAL is a solid performer for me.

Thanks
Dan

and I have most of those mentioned except the Slottech.com arms... I might have to try them

Thanks
Dan

They are great arms, I have yet to blow a com off a Slottech, I have a handfull of wizzards missing com segments. Slottech cost a little more but your paying for the quality that cant be matched

OR, you could wind your own arm.