View Full Version : new hyperdrive car


Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9] 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37

impact
12-11-2002, 11:15 AM
Mike its the really soft one.the one with the kit seemed really hard!!!How about rear spacing with stock axle and hubs??Where are you racing this weekend??I may be interested in a little road trip:)

rcavenger
12-11-2002, 11:38 AM
ok, i can do that for this weekend. i have a Protoform Intrepid that is that wheelbase. think that body will run OK? the body i am currently running is a Protoform HD monte Carlo.

Also, if i start w/ the front width set using the middle spacers, what will changing the spacers (either direction) do to the car handling, assuming i am keeping the rear tires lined up w/ the front tires on each respective side? wouldn't doing that essentially change the amount of left side static weight percentage?

MIKE VALENTINE
12-11-2002, 12:24 PM
impact i'm running rentler near albany ny, nice place worth the trip. same setup as marshalls basic. i run one gold washer on the diff side and space the left with one gold and the alum thin asc stlye.


rcavenger the dodge should be fine in 4 cell stock. when you move the front wheels away from the center line of the car it reduces weight on that wheel. the best thing to do is try it. make up three diff sets of t-rods so you don't need to mess with them as you change widths. write down what happens and keep notes. theres no quick fix for any problem, just have fun and learn. good luck and ask away. mike

rcavenger
12-11-2002, 01:00 PM
T-rods? I am assuming u are talking about the cross brace that goes between the A-arms and attaches to the caster blocks? Also, when i am changing the front widths, should i ajudt the rear tires accordingly on the width? right now, i am keeping the right side and left side tires in line w/ each other, on the outer edge.

MIKE VALENTINE
12-11-2002, 01:39 PM
rcavenger no i mean t-rods, so when you changed the width of the front end you don't need to adjust them. because you already have them to just put on. i never run the crossbrace tube in th front of the car. if your running the rf tire even width with the rf tire your way to narrow in the rear. at most just the left tires will be the same tire track never the right. try running from outside to outside of rear tires 7.9"

rcavenger
12-11-2002, 01:42 PM
ummm...ok. i guess i got some bad advice. Danny B told me to run the RR flush w/ the RF...??? i guess what i need is a good COMPLETE baseline for the track i described before, running 4 cell stock. the car is quick as it is, but seems to hard to get consistent lines w/. either that, or the driver is the prob ;)

MIKE VALENTINE
12-11-2002, 01:49 PM
i wouldn't say it's bad advice, danny is a vary good person to ask questions and give advice. has he been running that setup in mod or in stock, big diff in setup. what hub are you running on the rr to get it the same width as the front?

rcavenger
12-11-2002, 01:53 PM
it is 1.085 from the diff ring face to the face where the wheel bolts on

MIKE VALENTINE
12-11-2002, 02:12 PM
i'll have to check when i get home. i'll repost then.

rcavenger
12-11-2002, 02:15 PM
OK...
not really sure what to do here. on this track, we only get an hour of practice time. it is only setup on race day. the closest track to me is 45 min, and is COMPLETELY different! much smaller, and a ton tighter corner. Plus, the new carpet they put down is messed up in one corner....had never seen a carpet car 'dirt track' down a whole straight before, but mine sure did! tried to get more rear bite on the car to counteract this, and then it started to push in the 'good corner'...?? it really sucks not having a good 'home-track'. Just wish i could get some track time to try these things out

MIKE VALENTINE
12-11-2002, 02:27 PM
don't feel bad, the closet track to me is 1.5 hours. without having measured my hub, are you using the stock hub that came with the 0700. if so then it's the same as what i use. just not sure how you tuck th err tire in far enough to be even with the rf tire.

Danny B
12-11-2002, 03:38 PM
With the RF all the way out, with off-set pod and standard RR hub you can get the RR in that far. For me I like the RR tucked in, that is always a good place to start on flat tracks especially with a new car. I am a huge fan of having the rear end really planted and using other things like springs and front tires to get it to turn, something we struggled with at times. But we were getting it pretty good before the big switch:devil:

Also, I ran the car on extreme short wheelbase several times. At times I thought it was really good and other times it sucked. I was most comfortable with the Middle wheelbase in the front and short in the rear.

TeamGoodwrench
12-11-2002, 03:45 PM
I run my 700 the same ways as Danny -- on a 200 ft flat track.

LF -- middle; RF -- all the way in.

Front -- middle wheelbase; rear -- short wheelbase

It turns in great and doesn't begin to get loose in the rear (Grey Jaco LR, black Jaco RR).

I've also started to move the batteries forward -- started with them all the way back and all the way outside.

The only thing I've been working on is getting the car a little freer in the middle of the corner and off. My LR is about 1/4" outside of the LF, so I'm going to try moving the LR in so it is closer to being lined up with the LF.

rcavenger
12-11-2002, 03:49 PM
i can try that...seems most people are having at least some probs w/ the shortest wheelbase. gonna try moving the pack one set of cells forward as well...sound like a plan?

MIKE VALENTINE
12-11-2002, 04:13 PM
rcavenger
danny
there was no mention of using the offset pod until you (dannny) said that. i was wondering how he got the rr tire that far in now i know. i have never run it there and may need to try it. the rr being so far in, turns in better but won't have the on power drive as if it was out farther. then pushing the rf out so far takes away the turn in you got from the rr being narrow. not sure if you defeated what you were try to do by the rr. i'll give it a try at a couple diff tracks in the weeks to come.

B mullins
12-11-2002, 06:19 PM
Mike V. what will the car do if I change my side shock oils from 40 wt to 30 wt and put the car back (left rear weight back)? will it help get some speed coming out of the corners?

MIKE VALENTINE
12-12-2002, 08:43 AM
B mullins the general rule i use with side shock oil is the larger the radius of the turn the thicker the oil, to keep the car from rolling over to much. the toghter the radius the thiner the oil. thinner oil will transfer weight faster and thicker slower, so when entering a tight turn and exting you want the car to transfer faster and return to neutral faster. but there are exceptions to every rule. you just need to try some diff things to fine tune to your driving stlye.

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 08:46 AM
mike,

Thanks for the ideas last night. totally rebuilt my front end after i got off the phone. also went to white LF spring, red RF....should be an interesting Sunday :thumbsup:

MIKE VALENTINE
12-12-2002, 09:00 AM
rcavenger if anything i would try it the other way, white right front and red left front, thick fluid. good luck mike

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 09:19 AM
oh, OK...i am assuming that i am not too light? also, what kind of fluid?

TeamGoodwrench
12-12-2002, 09:59 AM
I use Trinity "white stuff" for lube on my king pins.

MIKE VALENTINE
12-12-2002, 10:55 AM
rcavenger corally hard

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 11:32 AM
is there anything else close? i wont be able to get to a hobby shop before sunday. i have trinity purple, various hydradrive fluids, assc. black grease, stealth lube, etc....

MIKE VALENTINE
12-12-2002, 12:49 PM
the trinity purple stuff would be the closest but use it sparingly, or try cutting it with the hydra. the purple stuff is vary sticky.

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 12:52 PM
OK...thanks mike! i have mixed it w/ one grease before. it is a green silicone type grease.

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 01:44 PM
ok..Mike, here is the setup i am thinking about running....

RF caster - 4 deg / LF caster - 2 deg
RF camber - 2.5 deg / LF camber - 1 deg
middle wheelbase, centered shims for both LF and RF
stk plastic caster blocks, spaced in w/ 1 cutoff caster block
RF spinrg white w/ heavy lube, LF red w/ heavy lube
RF tire black, LF tire black

double slot spring steel T-plate
assc. shock w/ #2 piston a 50 wt / red offroad spring cut down
RR shock red w/ 40 wt, LR shock gold w/ 40 wt.
offset pod - rears centered, 7.8" total track width
RR tire black, LR tire white
about 0.5 mm rearsteer, as measured in wheelbase diff L vs. R side,
Batts all the way back, speedo and reciever on the LF of the 6 cell tray
Protoform Intrepid w/ lrg wing, set flat, about .5 behind rear axle

Track is only setup on race day, about 160 ft runline, sweeping corners, flat and smooth, w/ exception of tape seams. damn corner dots on the inside...argh.

OK, how does that sound for 4 cell stk?

MIKE VALENTINE
12-12-2002, 04:00 PM
rcavenger
lf chamber +1 degree
why run a wing and offset pod in stock. is the track really that loose. i haven't been anywhere but velodromes were you need a wing and offset pod in stock. if the car is really loose in the middle of the turn take out the rear steer or move the speedo back to the right side of the car.

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 04:07 PM
Seems like when i try to run w/o a wing, the car is inconsistent. the side dams seem to help 'lock' the car in. as far as the offset pod, i can go either way. maybe i should run a small wing , flat, w/ the std. pod? i think the rear steer is pretty slight, and should make the car a little more free in the corner, especially since the corners are sweeping. could move the speedo back, if u think that would be better.

TeamGoodwrench
12-12-2002, 04:08 PM
I run without the pod offset on a flat track.

I have a single level Bud's wing, but I have the kickup almost flat.

rcavenger
12-12-2002, 04:10 PM
OK...i am running my own wings. i have a couple w/ only one side dam (much lighter), and a more std. wing, similar to a thunder wing.

HOOPD1
12-12-2002, 05:55 PM
Scott I would forget the offset pod for Vinton,Ive been both ways with the 510 and it was better with the pod centered.
That was in 19t though,I will know more sunday since I am gonna try to race 19t and stock.You got any more body mounts done yet?
The traction in Vinton is pretty low and the 6" tape seams dont help.
And now no more Paragon:rolleyes:
How hard is the black your trying to run on the right rear?
A 33-35 is about as hard as I can make work there without putting alot of left rear in the car.I ran a 34 blk lf,40 blk rf,28 white lr,and a 35 blk rr last time there.315 grams on the left rear.
Also I dont think the rear steer is a good idea with the large radius of the corners there.See ya sunday.

rcavenger
12-13-2002, 08:56 AM
the tires u are talking about, and the LR weight is about the same i am planning on trying. But, Phil B is running a purple RR, and black LR...?!?!?!? good to hear u have tried both pod offsets! i haven't tried them back-to-back to see the difference. diff people are talking about diff situations to offset the pod in. some say high traction (more weight transfer to the RR??) others are saying when it is slick, u need to offset pod. guess the only way to find out is try it, right?

no body posts yet...getting quotes still.

well, the rear steer is only 0.5mm (about 0.020) shorter on the left side...barely any. i was running about 1.5, i think that was causing problems w/ the car hooking on exit.

HOOPD1
12-13-2002, 06:04 PM
Yeah Phils tire setup is kinda odd but you cant argue with his results.I say offset pod for high traction to help drive the car off the corner on tracks with tight corners,and off set pod on low traction tracks with wide radius corners.Make any sense??

AJS
12-14-2002, 02:45 PM
Hoopd1, it looks to me like you totally believe in the ofset pod, good for both applications, or was that a typo.

See ya Sunday.:thumbsup:

HOOPD1
12-14-2002, 03:25 PM
No typo AJ,on a high traction track with wide corners no offset,and a loose track with tight corners no offset.Lots of other ways to tighten a car up other than offsetting the pod.Just my dumb way of thinking:wave:

superslow
12-15-2002, 08:52 AM
Mike I went with your tire set you recomended

superslow trc grey rears and black right front, green left front. you can run black right rear if your track has alot of traction or running 4 cell stock.

I did play a little with tires up right front. I did not have the black but every compound in non exotics. I went a little too soft and was rolling it at a point. then worked harder and think I am just on it.

The car is driveable but . I need to come from wide and be real light on the wheel. If I get in too late and have to turn the wheel more the car pushes way out to the wall. like wise if I get a car outside me I can not enter from mid line without getting completly off the throttle.

Here is where I am with chassi Front middle middle associated springs stock on inside and 20 on fromt right. I currently have a blue orange right and a green left grey rears. Batts up almost all the way rear is stock 20 weight in shocks and silver springs on shocks a tiny bit of de-wedge.

It seems I need to get a a little more bite on the front.
It runs good in stock but 19 turn I just cant get it down the power pushes it out!

Thanks !

B mullins
12-15-2002, 10:12 AM
Tire question for all the experts, I am used to running a harder RF tire to make the car push coming out of the coners of a softer lf to help the car hook up. My question is by running a softer lr tire, doesnt that tire drive the car off the coner more? If running a softer LR and a harder RF wouldnt car really have a bad push?

thanks again
B

JeffPatch29
12-15-2002, 11:17 AM
From My experience, running a harder rf tire, or running a softer LR tire will both make the car push, however that is assuming you run the same spring rates on both sides of the car. For instance, if you were running 2 associated .20 springs in the front, and 2 green tires, it would be almost exactly the same as running and assiciated .20 left front, and associated .18 right front, with green lf tire and blue rf tire. They ballance out to be almost about equal, the only real difference is how the tires heat up, and the amount of wear.

Rick Liehr
12-15-2002, 12:04 PM
Ok guys I player really hard with the 0700 in mod on the high banks in Akron this week. No track records to speak of with it but I pushed the guy in the 0510 across the line who broke the record by a lap. Here are what I think are must for your setup!!! Cross brace across the front end which helps take a little flex out. Put the 6 cell tray on with the speedo in the rear and the receiver in the front. I ran the batteries in the 2 thru 5 holes from front to rear. The front springs were 1 step heavier on both sides than my 0510. Then ran a little softer in the center to make up for being so stiff in the front. Ran the offset pod with the rear in the short holes and the front in the middle all the way to the inside.

Good Luck
Hope this helps,

Rick Liehr
Team Hyperdrive

rcavenger
12-16-2002, 09:05 AM
Mike V....

Thanks for all the info! car was MUCH better...driver was a little better. ended up second, turned a 53-4:04.4 in the main...track record is 53-4:01.?? The only problem i had w/ the car is a push for about the 1st 5 laps. not sure if it is a tire doping issue (using TQ mod all around), or maybe an aero-thing (more rear than front downforce, causing the rear to be loaded more when the car is faster at the beginning of the run). Any ideas?

B mullins
12-16-2002, 01:48 PM
Is there a rule to know when to move the battery tray forward, or do you decide on a tray location and tune to that?

Thanks
B

HURRICANE_Pace
12-20-2002, 12:07 PM
what is the parts number for the 7cells tray??

Pace

MIKE VALENTINE
12-20-2002, 02:16 PM
HURRICANE_Pace your best bet will be to e-mail barry at hyperdrive. his site hasn't been updated since the new car came out and rc4less.com looks like it's down for now. sorry i couldn't help more.

JW Housley
12-21-2002, 12:34 AM
The part number is BT-7040 for the 6-cell/7cell tray

PITBULL
12-21-2002, 09:38 PM
the car is blistering fast.only problem is its blistering loose.i have all the upgrades.small conrete tri- oval 220 or 260 ft. we have a hyperdrive sponsered driver winning every race with this car.but most everyone else is having big time problems.they say everything from being too twitchy to the being too loose.i put down some good laps with it but cant stand the pressure of trying to hold a loose car on the track.my g-force cant touch it in the turns but it is a lot easier to drive which leads to a more consitant racecar.should i leave this really hi-tech car in the hands of the pros like several people at our track have done,they sold theirs and opted for the 510.is there a way to get the backend hooked up and make it go into the turns like bullet all at the same time.there dousent seem to be lot of help at our track about these cars.u just buy one and ur on ur own


TY.........



15wt. side shocks green springs
50m wt. center shock gr. spring
BSR red left front tire NON NET... red spring
gr.rt.frt. L Net.. white spring
red left rear.L NON NET
gr. rt. rear.R NET

FRONT end ALL THE WAY IN 1ST HOLES
BAT. TRAY ALL THE BACK
shock tower second holes from the top
i forget the t- plate but they did help pick the one that best siuts the car,1st set of holes from the back.
pod centered
9102 servo
4-cell stock

teamhdrive
12-21-2002, 11:42 PM
Has the team driver been any help at all? I hope so! Look at his setup and ask questions. Its hard to diagnose the problem without seeing the track, car, etc. Is the track flat, banked a little, banked alot?

Are you running delta or Assoc. side shocks? Never seen a green side shock spring for a vcs shock. I would take some stagger out of the rear and put a non net Green RR on it. How much wedge you running? Tires, Tires, Tires....its all about those 4 round (hopefully) things touching the track! If your off by more than a lap, its tires first and everything else comes after that!

If anyone thinks im leading Pitbull in the wrong direction chime in. Lets get this guy going on his 0700! I know some others must have opinions on this.

Scott
Team Hyperdrive, MSA Dist.

JW Housley
12-22-2002, 12:11 AM
Scott D. is right on with the tire info........try what he is saying.

Also.....if it don't cure the problem to your liking.....try the 10 inch wheelbase setting..........it is the most liked wheelbase w/ this chassis. The t-plate should be all the way forward and the front end in the middle holes to get the 10 inch wheelbase.

Hope this helps man.

JWHousley

jflack
12-22-2002, 12:14 AM
15wt. side shocks green springs ------change---30wt
50m wt. center shock gr. spring
BSR red left front tire NON NET... red spring
gr.rt.frt. L Net.. white spring--change--S net....change red spring-Wolfe
red left rear.L NON NET
gr. rt. rear.R NET

FRONT end ALL THE WAY IN 1ST HOLES----car is to short..wheel base needs to be 10.5 inches...left all the way inside, right all the way out.....
BAT. TRAY ALL THE BACK....
shock tower second holes from the top----change drop down 1 hole....
i forget the t- plate but they did help pick the one that best siuts the car,1st set of holes from the back.....unless the track is super bumpy, STEEL T-plate..........
pod centered
9102 servo........is that Futaba or Airtronic? If its Airtronic buy a better servo.........I use JR7005s....a few futaba servos are good....
4-cell stock





Pod wing, small super bi-level...with or wothout bi-level,....

Racin Steve
12-22-2002, 12:24 AM
Also, make sure your rear track is right ... I usually basically setup the rear track so the LR is .125" out versus the LF ... and the RR .375" out versus the RF.

Going to 40wt in side shocks will also calm down the car while cornering ... 15wt in side shock will make the car shift its weight REAL fast ... 15wt in side shocks is good for flat hairpins...

Steve.
Team HyperDrive:wave:

smokey
12-31-2002, 04:51 PM
i just received the lower rear steer plates and was wondering if anyone else had tried them and what to expect i race on a 95 foot flat ozite surface trioval you are in a turn most of the time.... thanks