50 x 24 guess. i don't know if there are any pics or not on there site www.rcmadness.com nice place to race, good people and a great hobby store/owner chris marcy. they held a us triple crown race last year.

Wow that is a tight track. I thought our 70x33 was small. If I'm ever up that way I'll have to stop in. Thanks for the info.

Originally posted by MIKE VALENTINE
josh i just take a set of ten degree castor blocks and cut above the countersink part. perfect fit:wave:

sweet. i love it when things are simple!

i race on a small flat track and run 6 cell stock now i have the front end short on my 700 and have the rear long would there be any benifit to putting the front back to long? so far the car is very good i want to make the right choices the first time ...thanks

d00d i was looking at your picks (mike) and the pod in the back looks NARROW, i mean is that a 3/4" left side hub???? how narrow is that thing back there??

lt8z

Mike --

I noticed you are running RPM ball cups on the side shocks.

I just bolted the rear end together on mine with the stock ball cups in the kit. I ended up with the side shocks on the inner holes on the pod top plate and also on the furthest in holes on the rear brace.

Is that too short ??


Thanks!

Goodwrench.......just make sure you get full travel out of your shocks!!!!!!!!

Center shock one hole forward, side shock inner holes top plate and second to the outside cross brace one rpm long ball cup and one short rpm ball cup. 50 weight center shock silver spring, 25 weight in sides red and gold side springs.

Team Goodwrench mike told me this a few pages back. :thumbsup:

smokey as long as the car isn't to twicky run it as short as the track and your driving stlye will allow. i normally run the front in the middle wheel base and the rear forward. 10" wheel base.

kgbracing the pod width has been the same for many years on hyperdrive cars. i did move the aluminum standoff but not hte motorplate or the left side bulkhead.

TeamGoodwrench running the shocks inward gives the rear a little more forgiving feel imo. it's the same as lowering the outside ball cup just changes the angle it which the shocks work. danny b gives a much better description a feww pages back.

FroDaddyy your right on that point but things like shock angle and where there located make a big diff in handling of the car.

THE BAT have you decided if your going to marshalls this weekend or up to k/n.

:thumbsup:

Mike empty your message box it keeps saying it's full.(Popular guy):wave:

bat it most be a glitch because theres nothing in there. unless i'm missing something.

Mike check your personal e-mail :wave:

Hey -- all the pics I've seen show the 0700 with a yellow fiberglass (IRS?) axle. Mine came with a graphite one.

Curious....

the first 25 or so went out with the fiberglass axles. then he switched over to the graphite. imo the graphite axles are much better. there a graphite axle on my car pics back a page or two.

Mike.....I knew about the angle.....just making sure Mr. Goodwrench gets full shock travel........

Changing the angle (more linear) smooths the travel and changes the roll center on the rear pod...right?

FroDaddyy changing the shock angle doesn't change the roll center of the pod it changes the roll rate, or stiffness, which ever you call it. the only way to change the roll center of the rear pod is to raise or lower the pivot point, the t-plate balls. general rule of thumb use a more angled setup like the stock asc car for flat ovals, and a more linear setup for banked tracks.

I meant roll rate.........heehee

Changing the roll center you have to put wachers under the t-plate pivot balls and then the same under the t-plate on the pod to keep it level...........

:lol:i know you knew that:lol:

Mike
I see that you hve a Futaba servo, do you run a futaba
radio? wondering what you had your dual rate set at in
Maine ?

TJ

thanks Mike

tj are you going to haverhill, chip nick and i are going, last week was the best, i got 60 laps and so did dave. i beat him for top qualifier by .030 of a sec. but that didn't matter though as he beat me he ran the new hyperdrive, it seams these cars are awsome. and he had alot of HP and in his heat that he got 60 that thing was glued no matter where it went.
keith

Mike and SRM..... thanks for the setup tips. this thing is getting closer to great with every pack i run through it.


PCTom

toytowne i always have the dual rate the number you see on the screen all the time set to 50. i adjust the amount of throw with with the left right setting in the radio. normally around 60 left and right for flat tracks and 40 left and right banked tracks i don't know exactly what it was for maine. sounds dumb but i always do the same thing at every banked track i go to. put your car on the out side wall turn left and give it the smallest amount of trigger and try to just turn around in the width of the track. it normally is vary close.

smokey no problem any time i can help.

rckfracing glad to see the car is running well for you.

pancartom any time. what do you think is missing maybe we can steer you in the left direction.:lol: ok maybe that wasn't funny

How high off the rear deck lid are you guys running the wing ?

Just painted a new HD Monte Carlo -- wondering what the best position for the wing is (Buds single level wing).

Thanks!

i normally run the deck level with the roof of the car, maybe an 1/8" lower. i normally bend the kick up (wicker can't remember if thats what you call it) flat with the deck. theres no need for the extra down force generated by that, the side dams are what helps the car the most.

Originally posted by MIKE VALENTINE
i normally run the deck level with the roof of the car, maybe an 1/8" lower. i normally bend the kick up (wicker can't remember if thats what you call it) flat with the deck. theres no need for the extra down force generated by that, the side dams are what helps the car the most.

wicker bill!!!

d00d d/r override! that way you can be lazy on the dr (make it low so you have even more precise control), then when you get in that wreck hit the button and your car turns MAJORLY, get back straight and let go!

mike
i run the graphie adrenaline short chassis, and it seems that when i come off the corner on a flat track the front end hooks,and the rear is fine. my steering trim is set straight on. when i come off the corner the car is forced to run a lower line this way, i have turned the steering down alot from what i normally run, and run fairly hard tires, a 2bl blue on rf and a single blue on left front. So would i be correct to say that if i go with a softer center spring that would take some weight off the front tires and add that weight to the rear?? I probably could alway try a triple blue on the rf....
thanks

Keith Fortier

rckfracing hi keith. normally if the car is having a problem getting out of the turn it's a rear end problem. in some extreme cases it may be caused by the front end but not normally. what side shock oil and springs are you running, also a major factor is rear track width. try moving the "left" rear inward, or a softer "left" rear tire. you can also try moving the battery in. try not to take to much front bite out of the car because when you do that, you normally take traction away from the rear to get the car to enter the turn, then of course it doesn't drive comming off. it may be a case of not enough overall bite in the car. one last thing change servos to see if the one you have isn't centering correctly. hope some of that made sense and helps. keep me posted. mike:thumbsup:

Looking for a starting setup for flat carpet, any help would be helpful.

Mike,

I am having a problem with the car being slow from the middle off I ask Brian B on the oval questions forum about this and he had the same conclusion as you about the rear end but said move the Left rear in not the right rear I'm a little confused here? this is for a large 350' banked concrete track.I'm running a 510.Also just some input I recently switched to a graphite axle and it seems to be MUCH smoother than the IRS axle it replaced.Thanks

rckfracing, Look back for some of the Adrenaline threads in the past few months. There are links to set-ups and stuff posted by some of the other team guys and myself. If I had to pick one thing that would help you right without knowing what your car set-up is I would say put on a .075 t-plate. This should hook the car up better.

Tractionroll, Car type, track dimensions and class??

Pepe, Two things can be happening, you are either loosing forward traction causing the car to be slow, or you are too tight into the corner and you scrub too much speed, once you scrub it off it is pretty hard to get it back until the wheels come back to center.

The LR thing is interesting. If you move the LR in without changing the tweak, the LR will pick up weight cause it is closer to the center of the car. In essence the same as adding tweak to the LR. But IMO the leverage that the tire's contact patch has is way more critical and effective in tuning than just picking up a few grams of weight on that wheel. So, I say moving the LR in loosens the car, while moving it out tightens the car. Moving the RR out loosens the car and in tightens the car. Hope this helps.

Danny B.
Team HD

Thanks Danny,

That's pretty much the same thing Brian said,I would indeed need to adjust tweak if I moved either wheel in or out just wanted to clarify.

tractionroll-
Last Sunday I ran 2 red springs up front. 25 oil in the side shocks with gold left side and blue right side. 60 oil in the center and black center spring. I change to stiffer center spring for more steering, maybe a red. Grn LF,Blk RF,Aqua LR,and Grn RR. I did put the soft T-Plate on for a race coming up and the car still seems good through the corner. Offset pod too. That is for my Adrenaline.

Car is 0700 Danny, Tracks are 115 to 160ft Stock and 19t.

pepe sorry i edited my post should have read "left".

danny i do agree, but most of the cars i've seen that have that problem as you stated is a turn in condition that there fixing with tweak instead find more front traction. so when they remove tweak from the it never drives off the turn. so by moving the left rear in they are forced to put more left rear weight into. thus still turning in and also driving better off the turn.

MK Race have you tried the car without the offset pod? i never could get the ad10 to work with offset also. always seemed to push alittle more then i liked.

Mike- I ran the pod in the middle when I first got it. I offset it and seemed to like it better that way. Your right about the push, always have to watch that it doesn't get too tight. I have 2 Adrenalines and going to try the other car with the pod in the middle.

Valentino ,call me and report on Monday SRM:cool:

Valentino ,call me and report on Monday SRM:cool: :wave: :hat:

Guys -- I noticed something with the 0700 chassis that I'm curious about...

If you hold the rear half of the chassis on a table, letting the front half hang off, you can flex the chassis.

It's woven graphite, so I expected it to be pretty stiff -- was surprised to see the flex in it.

Is this part of the design ??? I always thought that any flex at all was a bad thing.

Thanks

TeamGoodwrench - I was installing the new adjustable shock mount that I've got onto mine this afternoon, and noticed that the chassis flexed alot more than I thought it would also. Very good question, would like to see some input on this. What kind of setup do you guys recommend as a good starting point for a approx. 150 ft, completely flat carpet track??

Never seen a single blade of graphite that didn't flex! Who cares, the car works everywhere! and its fast....Hyperdrive power your way to the front!........




BSR racing, Hyperdrive, BULIT motorsports........

Yeah I can't argue with ya there!

First run out of the box -- I put it in the A-main.

The car was rock solid everywhere on the track -- 100% flawlessly stable and consistent!! Never even had to think about driving the car -- just rip the throttle full out and put 'er on cruise !!

It just surprised me to see the chassis flex.

All cars flex, depending on the thickness of the graphite some more than others. I think some flex is good, too much is bad and too little is bad also. You can flex all chassis with your hand without much problem and you can easily pick out which ones flex a little more, but I think your hands will put more force on the chassis than it will ever see on the track. So I would worry more about getting the right tires and handleing in the car than how much that chassis is flexing, always check the chassis for damage after a major wreck and watch for warping, I have seen it and it will ruin your day.

i'm going to try and keep this short. some chassis flex is needed for correct suspension operations because we have no way to control shock compresion and rebound seprately. case and point, if you have been in oval for any length of time you know about the roller pods or non t-plate cars. you can never get them to handle the same with just a shock (curent stlye) to work the same alone, (front or rear end) as you can a shock and a t-plate. same with the front end, a spring and fluid will never work correctly without some flex from the chassis. just my opion. but take a look around the pits and ask some fast guys what they have seen and learned over there years of racing. i do agree if we were running penske shocks i would want a stiff non flexing chassis but until the can shrink those shocks, we are all stuck. as for the people that say it's not consistant, i hope those people don't have t-plate on there cars because it the same thing. the chassis flexs the same amount each time the same force is applied at the same rate just like a t-plate. i know i run on about this, but i do feal strongly about this subject.

Thanks for the explanation, Mike.

Appreciate the response.

Thanks.

If the car didn't flex it would break in half in a hard crash.

i just got some hyperdrive casterblocks and when i put my standard associated arm on it is very loose what am i missing? the hyperdrive casterblocks are smaller than the associated any help would be appreciated

The Hyperdrive blocks are made extra skinny so you have unlimited castor adjusment either way. You just have to add more spacers to take out the slop. The thick black spacers used for the Wolfe long king pins work well at taking up the extra gap.

Smokey,

The best set up for the HD castor blocks is two 3/32 locking spacers like the ones that come in the raceway blocks, placed on the outsides of each upper a-arm, with wing wire through the middle.this will give you more than enough adjustment.Hope this makes sense

I came across what I think works very good to shim these castor blocks or any castor blocks for that matter. first put the front A-arm together with the castor block, then you take your old vcs side shock star washer that holds the internals of the shock in, and you just snap them over the pin that goes through the castor block. The reason I tried this is because I know a couple people who have ruined those expensive little aluminum blocks by pullling that pin in and out. this way the pin stays in all the time. :eek: :eek: :eek: