BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! I want "The Rocketkiller" back!!! :D

big daddy, just thought it would work out better for me this way. i know you understand what i mean.:lol: i'll give a call either tonight or friday night, got some stuff i want to talk about.:D

I'll figure something out it's just a little tight :mad:. Ken says he's
coming and will do a 60 in 4 cell stock with his new 700. :wave:

The new name is very original ! :D When is SMROCKET changing to steve miller.;)

mark it's really not that tight of a fit. we should be going 60's. i just want to see more people racing. so the crowd will determine how many laps will be turned this weekend, just like it has the other two days i raced.:thumbsup: i don't know if smrocket will change his or not. hobbytalk was nice enough to change it for me.

It's tight if your used to running a wide trc lynx :devil::D :D :D

Are you running mod ?

Mikey - Tonight would probably be best. Gimme a buzz. :)

mark :lol: not sure about mod, i just hate running against one other person.

big daddy sounds good. what are you going to try to pick up the girl with the tatoo, on friday. :thumbsup:

mike, do you have corner weights for the 700 set up to run on a flat carpet track? i've gotten the car settled down so that it is drivable, but it doesn't get thru the corner as well as i would like it to.

thanks tom

pancartom i don't really measure them. i should but never had a scale made up. what are you running for a setup now. oils springs width whellbase and where did you mount the electrics and what kind are they. i'll take some pics of my car and post them, for all you guys.

Hi TOM long time since I have talked with you I am running

LR 12.5oz
LF8.5 oz
RF 6.5oz
LR 8.25oz

I know it is not the same car but I am trying to give you a rough estimate of what I am running on most flat tracks... Mikey I tried to call you last night ,must be you were BUSY:rolleyes:

SRM THanks for changeing that worst name !!!!:p

hey steve, thanks for the reply..... now i know you've got the new adx car, but damn..... i only can get 1 reading on the LR. can i assume that the 8.5 oz is tha RR weight?

mike, as it sets right now, my car is set up with a 10" wheelbase, LF all the way in, RF all the way out. wolfe purples on the front, assoc. reds on the side shocks, and a spring similar to the assoc silver spring in the middle on a HPI shock. 40 wt in the sides, 45 in the center with a #1 piston and a medium spring steel t plate. the battery tray is all the way back, with the cells in the forward slots, all the way out. this is the set up i run in 4 cell mod, with a HD monte body, and a thunderbolt wing on the body. also, bsr blacks in the back, bsr double blue in the LF, nad a bsr triple blue on the RF.

thanks in advance!

tom

srm thanks for the weights. as for the name it wasn't for you.:mad:

pancartom moving the right front out will make the car tight turning in. also the front tires are way harder then what most flat track guys run around here. grey rears or maybe just one black right rear, black right front with either black, grey, or green left front. the rest of the setup seems fine. normally you don't need such a large wing, but i have seen flat tracks were it is needed. the large with will try to keep the car straight and not let it turn. you can bend the kick up down so it is flat with the deck. i never run the kick up except for flat asphalt ovals. try some of those things. it just seems you went way over board trying to get the car to not over steer, by going to the extreme with tires and wing it just doesn't rotate in hte middle of the turn. try the tires and a smaller wing, you will be alot happier with those tires i think.

thanks mike..... the reason that i ended up with the hockey pucks on the front was that the car was way to loose coming off the corner, and wanted to loop. i started with a hard blue on the RF, and a black on the LF, but it was more than a handful. so, i just kept going harder till it calmed down and was drivable. maybe, i went too far. i just scaled the car, and the weights are quite a bit off from steve's.... much more left side wieght. i'll play with it, and see what i can find.

thanks again,

tom

Mike do remember what you have for front & rear ride height ? Or what spacers your using.

bat the front end spacers plus a .062 washer, and in the rear a number 3 ride height adjuster. 2.20 tires.

pancartom if the car was loose comming off the turn it's normally a rear end traction prblem not the front end. maybe it was all in the black rears that was causing the problem. like you found out to get the car fron having to much steering comming off you had to way over compensate the front end (hard tires) to plant the rear end. another fix is to run a slight reverse stagger in the rear, that will help it drive off the turn.

T.Y. :thumbsup:

thanks mike, you've been a great help.

Just bolting together my new 0700 car. A few questions:

1) On the front-end -- which steering blocks should be used for flat carpet tracks ? The on-center aluminum axle ones or the offset (axle behind kingpin) steering blocks ??

2) Also -- I've got one pivot ball in the upper arm that doesn't seem to want to free up. I've popped it in and out 3 or 4 times and it doesn't seem to be getting any better. There are no burrs in the socket. Any ideas ??????

3) Drilling the servo mount holes. Should the servo shaft be on the chassis centerline -- even if you don't run the same position on the left and right front wheels ??? In other words, if the servo was mounted with the servo shaft on the chassis centerline, and you ran the LF in the middle and the RF in the furthest out position, you'd have uneven tie rod lengths. Is that ok ???

And regarding where to drill the mounts front to rear -- how do you know what angle the tie rods should be ?? I.e. how much toward the front or toward the rear to mount the servo ??


Thanks a bunch !!!!

1-in-line axles..
2-buy some more pivot balls, associated pivot balls sometimes are to large. sorry
3-The servo shaft should be centered on the chassis, where the frontend can be adjusted. Make sure the tie-rods can be adjusted long or short enough....Associated blue Ti tie-rod work good.........

the angle of the rods , you may get many different answers....i make mine adjustable .....where i can move the servo back and forward ..

OK.. but what should the angle be and why ??

It looks from the pictures I've seen that the tie rods should angle forward slightly from the steering block to the servo saver.

But how much angle ???

Help!

1) Inline
2) Buy new eyelets - the parts you have may be "soft"
3) I used my old 10L3Oval chassis for a template to drill the servo mount holes.

TeamGoodwrench as for the angle of the tie-rods it adjusts ackremen (sp) , which is the relative angle of the tires when steeering. you can adjust the amount that the left front turns compared to the right front. i have never seen a diagram or ref material to show when you mount the servo where, how much more the inside tire will turn. just try it and make your own judgement. i normally run my servo .850 back from the rear mounting holes on the lower a-arm for carpet. i beleive adx will be comming out with a detailed diagram off the effect of moving the servo, just hang on.

Mike thanks.

To clarify -- .850 from the rear mounting hole of the lower a-arm to ??? To the servo mount hole? To the front of the servo ?? To the front of the servo saver ??

Thanks for replying

TeamGoodwrench from the center of the 8-32 screws to the center of the 4-40 scres that mount the angled servo mounts.

Thanks Mike ! Most excellent information.

Boy.. a template for the car would be nice.

Thanks again for the info and the quick reply.

i tried making a template. i took the cad drawing and exported it to a jpg file. but when you brought it into mspaint or other programs it wouldn't print full size. so i adjusted the size in one program then, brought it into the other and smae thing would happen. if some one else can help with the problem i still do have the jpg fill, i'll load it up tonight when i get home.

Mike --

email it to me. We've got graphics gurus here that can take care of that. Then I can send them back to you to post if you like.

email: jeff.fritsche@esker.com


Thanks!!!

ok sounds good, it does come in handy, hope you can figure it out.

Mike -- please e-mail that diagram to:

jeff.fritsche@verizon.net


Thanks!

pictures of my car, sorry it took so long to get these on here. every time i tought about it the car was apart. http://www.geocities.com/MIKEYVALENTINE/HYPERDRIVE0700/ you can see the car i ran at r/c madness in enfield ct. also you can check out the resuts http://www.jlapracemanager.com/cgi-bin/JLapViewResults.exe?Where=RCMadness 10/19/02 like always if you have any questions please feel free to ask away. mike

Mike the car looks great. Does it come in woven graphite. Keith

mike , i would like a copy of the templet Thanks:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

mace yes the car does come in woven only, this is one of the protype cars. the only diff is a little less chassis material behind the left front a-arm, we added more to be able to mount the servo to the left, and of course this one is non woven. besides that all the hols are in the same place as production cars.

chris i would rather wait and see if it can be fixed before sending it out to to many people. hopefully it won't take to long to fix the problem. it's no benifit when the size isn't right. you can just simply draws lines on the car with a marker to do the same thing as the template. i know it easier when factory done but none of us use the same servo's.

TeamGoodwrench i did e-mail it to you, i resent it so hopefully you got one of them. please let me know if you recieved them and how it's going. thanks in advance.

Your way too fast valentine give us a chance will ya !The car is awesome thanks for all the help. :thumbsup:

Check your messages !!

Mike -- thanks for the pics !!

I see you mounted the servo with the fat side to the right -- not the left side of the chassis -- any reason ??

Thanks!

TeamGoodwrench i have been trying it both ways. i think by putting it to the right, which in turns also moves the transponder more to the right, it reduces that aggresive turn in. some tracks you need more turn in then others, i would try it both ways and decide for yourselve. if your running a personal trasponder mounted somewhere else like the front bumber, or on the right side of the car, i would always mount the long side of the servo to the left.

whats up mike! hey man how big are the spacers between the castor block and lower arm?

what spring steel tplate is that? ts not the normal trc one that burkhart runs is it?

and what speedo is that? is it a gm? it looks different than that. if its not a gm is it one of the ones in the magazine?

speaking of that has anyone checked out the new mtronics?

josh i'm good how are you. the spacers are .0625 thick, same as the aluminum washers. it's a figerglass t-plate. speedo is a gm-sx9, the pics aren't that great i was in a hurry. i don't care for m-troniks i bought one years ago and it never worked right ever after several trips back for repiar, but the word on the street it is a lrp anyway. not sure but heard it from a few people. i don't get any mags whats the one in there.

What diameter do you guys start new tires at ?

Hey Valentine your the man great job with the pics see ya Sat. night.Jason

I start at 2.25 for flat tracks.

i normally start off any where from 2.25 to 2.30 dependent on the track. some tracks are vary sensitive to tire size were as some aren't. i wouldn't run over 2.30 as they tend to chunk the larger you run them. sounds like a good idea to run large tires to save money but when you run full size tires and chunk them the first run what do you save, nothing. i saw so guys up in maine do that vary thing, they put four new tires on for there main and they came back ruined, one run tires.

Mike -- super pics of the car!

I noticed you are running RPM ball cups on the side shocks.

I just bolted the rear end together on mine with the stock ball cups in the kit. I ended up with the side shocks on the inner holes on the pod top plate and also on the furthest in holes on the rear brace.

Is that too short ??


Thanks!

Originally posted by MIKE VALENTINE
josh i'm good how are you. the spacers are .0625 thick, same as the aluminum washers. it's a figerglass t-plate. speedo is a gm-sx9, the pics aren't that great i was in a hurry. i don't care for m-troniks i bought one years ago and it never worked right ever after several trips back for repiar, but the word on the street it is a lrp anyway. not sure but heard it from a few people. i don't get any mags whats the one in there.

for spacers i meant the ones between the castor block and the lower a-arm, the ones you used to space the castor block in. they are a bit more than .0625 right?

josh i just take a set of ten degree castor blocks and cut above the countersink part. perfect fit:wave:

Mike,

What is the advantage of spacing the caster blocks in?

Thanks,
Brent

BrentP more mech grip. not needed on most tracks but r/c madness were i race the car is short and tight. for bigger flat tracks and banked tracks it's not needed.

What size is the oval track at R/C Madness?