CHRIS COOPER are you coming to bms sure would like to shave some teeth off that spur gear again

Dave the long hub should have come with the kit. the standard box stock setup is standard t-plate with offset pod (long hub). try just moving in the left front, that will make it less aggressive.

mike
a couple questions about maxxium.....what roll out ,motor combination and run line in feet did you guys run ? The track in st johnsburt vt is very similar and Im tring to get a bse line for gear.

thanks
tj

gear is vary subjective. i have been running between 2.15 and 2.40 depending on brushes and spring. i ran 2.28 this past weekend with full timing and x-brush two red orion springs. the guys running 24 degress run around 2.75. don't know the runline.

Will the battery tray for the Pro3 fit on the 700?

stesh it's not a direct fit, but you could probally make it work with alittle work.

Mike - Are you using the solid or slider?

jim I have been running the solid chassis lately. Just because I haven't had alot of time to have more then one car ready to run.

What is a good rule of thumb on when to change the T plate to harder or softer. Or is there one, if you go up from a silver Ass. to a Silva silver or more. Would you change the T plate then or not. When at the same track?

STESH general rule of thumb would be when you need more rear traction softer t-plate, less rear bite harder t-plate. Or if the track is bumpy softer t-plate. the other case may be at your local track weekly their's 20 people or so, then your track has a big race 70 people you may want to try a stiffer t-plate.

Mike, Nice run at Maximus...........

Walter

Walter, when you comming up north to run with us. I won't being heading your way until they allow running something other then 3300's.

Mike just so you know Marshalls allows any 4 cell battery up to 3800. so if you wanna come run with us Oct 8th its gonna be a fun time. hope you can make it. seeya around

joe ivo

Mike, not sure when I can make it up that way but Myself and Jorge will be up that way hopefully soon. You should make the trip down to Marshall's for the 8th and 9th. 3800's on Saturday and ORL on Sunday 3300's only. But you never know if enough people will run 19t since there hasn't been too many running that lately maybe you guys can get them to allow 3800's.

Walter

I'll Wait Till The First Of The Year Atleast To Come Down. Then There Allow Current Batteries.

your my hero mike but i need a car

OK finished mine, left me confused>>

#1 PRO kit right?? whats with the center shock... Free advice on that>>>Keep the shock and give me a snickers bar instead.. The snickers bar is a lot more useful.

#2 When tapping>> TAP THE WHOLE HOLE>>>My hand is still raw from retapping and fitting everything.. THEN Phase 2..Before sending above parts to anodizing..CLEAN OUT THE CHIPS>>dont just anodize a clump of chips in the holes...

#3 Nuts bolt and fasteners>>> With my kit and others who have built it...No one has been able to complete step 1 without a trip to the LHS...where are the nuts for the bumper>> Or where are the rest of the nuts to mount the slider chassis etc etc.. then I have about 12 extra 4-40 x 1/4" screws>> But no where near enough of the larger ones...so again a trip to LHS> front wheel nuts> LHS> etc etc...spent a lot of $$$ at the LHS just to finish the build. NOT CUSTOMIZE>>>Just finish.. Again The reason it makes me mad is>>These items so far are LOW cost when buying in bulk...for the priice of the 900000 extra 1/4 long screws you could have given me 6 more of the longer ones and enough nuts to finish the build.. It was almost like I got a solid car hardware kit or something..

#4 the front hinge pins>>>LOL again what PRO is going to use the Binding associated bent clips..The front end is near impossible to build freely using that>>> Maybe take the shock OUT of the kit and add some longer straight pins and clevis' or send some CW pins...something... Again LHS and $$$later to make it right.

#5 the only other disappinting factor was that you did not get both sets of hubs and top plates...other kits come with both> My custom works car which cost the same $$$ managed to come with both setups, all fasteners,quality tapping, a real adjustable center shock, etc etc.. ..this kit requires buying $75 worth of parts to offset the t-plate..


OK now that the rants are over I do have the car finished and hope to get it out this weekend for the first race>>>Thanks to those who sent me set-up tips..Hopefuly all will go well.. I will post results then. ;)

Im sorry if my rants sound harsh>>BUT Im not saying anything thats not being talked about in the PITS. If a NEWB gets this kit he is brobably in trouble..the instructions dont offen insight into changing any part of the setup and had I not built more than a few kits in my past the lack of fasteners would have confused me.the center shock will probably go down in history as the worst shock ever offered in a "PRO Series" kit(FWIW I know the ansa deal with HPI wer to this will be that everyone uses HPI anyway, I know that to be true and if thats the case have your procurement team strike or drop the kit price a few bucks and add center shock required to the kit) ..

Im not trying to be all negative about it...On the positives I liked the design of the car, I liked all of the adjustment available with the rear pod>> Once I got it built the way I wanted it Im expecting nothing but good things from this car... IMHO most of the rants above could easily be corrected by HD for future kits, except for the hub deal...Im sure that would add a lot of cost...But again>>the competition is giving you offset and on center hubs with their kits.. Thanks to those who gave me setup help with the car.. Ill post the results of racing after next week..

FWIW I have NOT given up on my CW car...I am rebuiilding it and will continue to run it.. I bought the HD car as a second car>I wanted to drive smething diffferent.. ;)

I AGREE on the every thing you said i just ran mine for the first time this weekend and won the a main with a hpi centershock from r/c for less and irs front end parts the car runs beautiful at least with hyperdrive you will be able to get parts!

kenwood, it does sound like you recieved the solid car screw kit. the nuts for the frontend due fall into hyperdrives problem since they sell the car, but the front end is packaged at associated and not inspected for missing hardware. they will replace any missing hardware for you, but that part was missing from assocateds plant. i agree on the center shock, but we would get comp[lants in we offered a blue shock on a red car. the tapping issue has been resolved, as for the chips, can't see how they would have made it thru cleaning after maching then tumbling and cleaning at the anodizer, but things do happen. i don't have a problem with the front hinge pins but if you send me your address i'll be glad to sen you some polished wing wire free of charge. the stock kit requires nothing to offset the t-plate. as for the extra hubs it was felt that since there are fewer and fewer tracks that require running the non offset hub why put it in the kit, also most racers have them. As for the directions, as stated in you post it is a pro kit.

Mike Like I said I fixed all of mine...I did the wingwire trick and all of that.. But I figured the screw kit was soild>>Reason I say that is the missing bolts and nuts all seemed to be related to the slider portion of the kit..

blue shock red car..I guess.. Could have added to the parts needed kit a can of oven cleaner...spray blue shock and watch it turn silver before your eyes... ;) Like I said Im sure Ill overlook it all if the car performs as it should on the track..

On the bent hinge pins>>Id like to know how you build those and get the front end free.. For instance I built the front end per the kit setup...I shaved the associated parts as necessary to keep the wolfe kingpins free... However without springs the a-arm would not drop smoothly... Unless I pulled the bent part far away from the arm.. I swapped in an exttra set of CW front pins and clips and the front end worked flawlessly sam caster settings/camber settings everything the same except the pins>>CW pins MIC the same as associated bent ones so its not an internal binding issue, its more that where the pin is bent on the end they are never 100% true thus at certain angles the pin will bind.....Now its silky smooth..

As far as the anodizing went my front caster blocks each of them had a "turd" in them that appeared under a magnifier to be metal chips from the tapping...Also my LS rear pod plate had the same thing... so maybe mine missed a few operations or something..

i'm not sure on the burrs, weird those after all those steps. the front pins when bent cause the material the become oval shaped or flared i just dremel away a small amount near the bent portion. if you need any help or questions, just let me know. msv3875@aol.com

Cool>> Thanks mike.. Im going to run it for the first time this weekend ...Im sure Ill either have A LOT of questions...if unsuccessfull or NO questions if Im successfull...he he he..

Was wondering what wheelbase/pod configurations were being used on the pro-3? Flat asphalt,250ft runline,cap tires.thanks

Hey all

I just picked up a really nice 0700 from Rob Murdock and am overwhelmed with the adjustments on this thing. I read through this thread and found a little bit of info but I was wondering if there was a guide online for oval cars. It seems they are everywhere for offroad cars and sedans.

Pat, as soon as I get a chance I will forward a very detailed set up that was used on that car. It should work nice for you

Rob @ Murdock R/C

at least with hyperdrive you will be able to get parts!

EEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSY NOW WITH THOSE CW CRACKS!

NO problem getting CW parts, pick up the phone and call them.

NO problem getting CW parts, pick up the phone and call them.

Well YES and NO.. Yes CW sends me parts very quickly...BUT For instance... @ weeks ago when my car got cracked up I was out of racing for 1.5 weeks while I waited for parts>> My decision to buy a HD for weekly racing was due to the fact that While I was out of the action making a list of what was broken I glance on my LHS shelf and they had every part I needed in stock for a HD car... Im not giving up on CW but for weekly racing I will run the pro3..for the simple reason that I dont have to carry a complete inventory of parts if a wreck happens.. Id hope that my spektrum failuer was a freak occurance>>BUT if that happened on my pro3 I would still have been racing that night...

EEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSY NOW WITH THOSE CW CRACKS!


I was not cracking on CW...If you read at least what I posted about CW it was all GREAT... I have no complaints>>Other than my LHS does not carry any parts>> And FWIW I dont blame them..locally we have about 20 HD cars, 5 ksgs, and 1 CW...the 1 CW being me.. LOL

Pat, as soon as I get a chance I will forward a very detailed set up that was used on that car. It should work nice for you

Rob @ Murdock R/C

ROB if you run some flat track with the pro3 Id like to see some setup sheets for that as well... I know the setup sheets you sent to Shane for his 700 worked very well.. :)

Sure thing Sean, as soon as I get something Im happy with and is versitile for everyone Ill send it out or write one up that can be sent out. I have not ran the production car on flat carpet yet, only prototypes and they are going to differ some. If you have access to the 700, pro2 set up that I have sent around the country that will get you very close though and you be able to work off that Im sure.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

EEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSY NOW WITH THOSE CW CRACKS!



beach did not mean custom works you know who im talking abought :thumbsup:

Guess no one wants to share?

Ill post my setup up after I run...Ive not run it yet so me posting my theoretical fast setup may not be the right thing to do...LOL..

I have never run a flat asphalt cap tire track. But I would start will strat up pod and offset t-plate. as for tires three pinks and a red left rear. minimum stagger, maybe John Foister will help out with the tire deal.

Danny, you need to call Humpty, he will hook you up.


barry

MIKE you guys planning on running oval this year at madness just wondering if thier is going to be a good crown ever week or if i should not worry and just bash my sk up some more let me know

smyka

MARK I do plan to run there alot more this winter due to it being so close. I also have plans to run some 1/12 road course. Scott law also said he'd run there.

I'm sure if we keep each other posted, we can all try to run the same days. I'm sure the turnout for the posted races will be good. So many races, such little time, can't make them all.

Mark I think that I'm gonna try to run ther this winter as well... best pratice for snowbirds around the area should I go.

I'm definately joining this party :devil:

I want to play also.let me know in advance.Hey Smyka where are my gears.What class MOD.

Old timer and I will show also.

How bout this weekend????? For those who are not going to go to maine, if we all go it will be awesome racing. K/N and maximus are closed this weekend.......

Most of us are going to Marshalls this week end...

I hope the crowd there gets good this year, should be fun, track is tight, but big enough to run some really good stock racing, and 19 turn isn't impossible either I don't think. TripleH, I dont' think we'll be running mod... that is too much for a track that size.. what are we gonna try to do, go 80 laps LOL!

thats funny cuz the track we've been running is about the same size as marcy's and tripleh has the record of 81! turning 2.9's ! it's nuts with six cars like we did last weekend.

i'll be happy to run mod if he changes the inside wall, know it shoots your car to the outside wall. i wonder if just plastic or wheel dots would be better and easier.

Hey Bob, K&N is open this weekend and closed next. Some guys are also going out of town. Why not shoot for next saturday night to kick this off, gives enough notice to all who want to be involved.

Hey Mike, how about a support behind the corners so they don't give so much and toss the car to the outside wall? They act like a springboard.

Just get rid of those inside walls, and put some ice down like snowbirds.