Manual would be a start....I had a hell of a time when I got my first pro2

Wait a minute hyperdriver. :) I built that car with no book for ya. Just kidding you a little. Im glad it is running good for you. You looked real good the last time out and have a lot to build with. Now we just need to get you to the track more often


Rob

Rob,

The Pro 2 ST that I got from you runs well also.I bought a KSG just to compare the two and the KSG turns a lot more than the Pro 2, both cars have practically the same set ups.I'm hoping the pro 3 will turn a little better so I can get back to the red.Seems the HD's are notorious for getting tight and staying that way.

I suspect the tight issue will be solved very soon. :cool:

Pepe, you cant really set an h drive up anything like the ksg. They are considerably different. I have my h drives turning harder and easier than my ksg's ever did. Not to say that the ksg's didnt work good but I do have my pro 2's and 700's flying week in and week out for me. There are some key things that will help you out. Shoot me a direct email and Ill forward some set up ideas that will greatly help your Hyperdrive. One thing that I say for all cars. Make sure that your front end is built correctly. If that front end doesnt work right there is nothing behind it that will matter in making that car work.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

Yep I need alot of track time. Thats why Ill be out their before the oval race from sun up to sun down that Friday. I thought that it was put together allright for the most part, but yes you did make it way better.

Hey Rob, I'd like to be copied on that email to Pepe! LOL

Can anyone give me any ideas on how to fix my problem? I'm pushing from the middle out and the car seems sluggish in the turns. The car turns in real well. I have the offset pot, .063 t-plate. 30 weight sin the side sh with blue springs. 80wt in the center shock with a HPI orange spring. Wolf kinigpins set up in the front. Lf is 0 back and 1deg to the inside. top of a-arm is straight.

RF is 3 deg back 2 deg to the inside. Green springs across the front both arms are in the middle setup

thanks

I use the terms "if the front end isnt right, everything behind it is usless" and that is very true. No adjustment in the rear will work correctly without a properly built front end. Here are some ideas. Take a dremel and crown the steering block. This will keep it from hitting the underside of the top eyelet and binding or loading the spring more than it should be under travel. Use an exacto knife and bevel the eyelet on the top and the bottom. This will give more clearance for shims and e clips on the top and allow the pivot ball to pivot freely without hitting the sides and binding. Same on the bottom a arms, bevel them a little to allow for the nub of the pivot ball to move freely without hitting any part of the arm under travel. I dont like set screws or cross braces on the front ends, they both have effects that will tighten a car up. Use the delrin pivot ball on the bottom and a teflon coated on top. The brass or teflon coated let things move to freely in my opinion but are fine on top. Make sure to polish the king pins. I will use the dremel and run 600 sandpaper on them just a bit to smooth things out then use mothers to polish them to a high luster. When you assemble the front end dont put your springs on right away. Just put the king pin in and move things up and down to make sure everything is free. Oh, make sure that your king pins will go though the steering block and axles without force. Align them or file them so that they move freely as well.

On to the H drive ideas. Some will disagree I know but this is what I know works for me. This is for flat carpet only really but some may cross over to the banks. If anyone has a problem with the hyperdrive cars it is apex off right. I have a personal belief that you must start with the left side tires sqared up, well how do we do this. I run my 0700's and pro 2 st cars a bit different but here is how we do it. I run my 700's in the middle, middle locations, then cut the left rear tire down to 1.80 inches. And then slam it against the pod. This will help the car turn a ton. If you want to give it more push off then you simply move it out. The next thing that I found with the h drives is that shock angle doesnt work as wel because of the stiff cross brace system so I flatten the shock out by using taller ball studs. This allows the car to have less leverage, rolls in the corner and stays rolled a little longer to keep rotation going. Therefor it turns better. Next, I use heavy oil in the center shock with a lighter spring. This allows the car to squat and stay squatted a little longer to again allow the car to keep rotating and again keep it turning easier. Next I use the H drive offset spring steel t plate. This will load the right rear a bit more and also help the car keep turning from apex off. Put those things together and as long as everyting else is right it should be a weapon. My personal cars I use the same set up in stock, 19-0, 19 open, and open mod and my 700 holds track records in all those classes. I simply change tires and make small adjustments to get the car right for that track, or the conditions that day. Now some of you may think this stuff sounds like it makes the car lazy but in fact most guys I have let drive my car cannot drive it because it turns so hard and effeciently. they are not used to it so they spin it out. but once you get used to it the car will stick under hard moves but yet you should be able to use very little steering to get that car throgh the corner. Hope that helps a little to get your H drive to do what I know they can. Dont give up, find what it wants guys.

Rob @ Murdock R/C & Performance

Thanks Rob,

I just looked over the front end of my car and see that those adjustments do need to be made. Thanks for the help, Time to get busy!

One other small thing I forgot. I run the entry or big opening of the upper eyelet "up". this gives you a little more room for shims or eclips and especially the spacers that come with the wolfe pro long king pins.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

If your ham fisted and clumsy with an exacto blade like I am,Use a new sharp 5/16 or 3/8 drill bit to clearance the eyelets by hand.I tried this after one too many cuts on my fingers.

Also I run Aluminum lower arms.You can adjust the orientation of the eylets to match the top eyelets.It will also give you infinite width tuning option by shimming the eyelet in and out.

Rob,How flat are you running your side shocks?Paralell with the chassis?

So what are the pros and cons of using the set screw in the end of the axle against the king pin?

Thanks

If your ham fisted and clumsy with an exacto blade like I am,Use a new sharp 5/16 or 3/8 drill bit to clearance the eyelets by hand.I tried this after one too many cuts on my fingers.

Also I run Aluminum lower arms.You can adjust the orientation of the eylets to match the top eyelets.It will also give you infinite width tuning option by shimming the eyelet in and out.

Rob,How flat are you running your side shocks?Paralell with the chassis?

The problem with the aluminum lower arms is they will get bent slightly and your car will go to pieces and you won't know why.

My shocks are not completely flat with the chassis. They need some angle to retain some leverage to work.

I dont really think there is a pro to the set screw in the back of the front axle. Typically the car will go tight because the steering block cannot move freely on the king pin. Now if you have things crowned as mentioned above it shouldnt be able to bind but I think it still causes things to not be right. So, I dont ever run the set screw. No sure if that is a really great answer but that is my theory anyway.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

So what are the pros and cons of using the set screw in the end of the axle against the king pin?

Thanks
I don't know of a down side to using the set screws, but on the pro side they tighten up the parts in the front end and reduce slop. the king pins rotate inside of the pivot balls. Hope this helps.
Doug Parisano

The problem with the aluminum lower arms is they will get bent slightly and your car will go to pieces and you won't know why.

If you check the alignment of everything and make sure nothing is bound up they are bullet proof.The only thing that ever gets bent is the screw that holds the eyelet on.I've run mine for the last 5 years with no problems.I've had way better luck with machined lower arms than with the poorly molded ones from Associated.Just my preference I guess.

Bob has a good point guys. I dont cars for the machined arms myself because of weight and the change in flex characteristics but on the other hand the associated front ends need to be checked closely. If you ever change the front end of your car and the handling goes away it is most likely the lower a arm. I have seen those things be way off from bowing in the shrink stage after molding and it will change you king pin angles. Normally when I get a car that is just that good, I never change the front end completely. The lower a arms stay with that car for life. Pivot balls get changed and maybe the eyelet or upper arm but never the lower arm unless I have no choice.

Let me ask this of some of you. Would anybody be interested in the TRC front end as it was known. Those of you who have been around for a while know which one Im talking about. those who may not, it was the same thing as the associated but the caster block and mounting was a bit different. You could change roll center without a fancy aluminum block, and the caster block was held on with bolts going up instead of from the side. If there is a enough demand for this. I can bring it back out to the market. those of you who know me know it will not be released unless it is as good as it can be.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

Rob if there were an alternitive to the Associated front end it would definitely be on my cars.

Rob I would be intrested in the front end if you release it again.Craig

Rob i likedthe design of the TRC, but i felt the upper arm flexed alot the way it was designed.. it also seemed no matter how tight the screws were holding theupper arm mount on, they always seemed to twist.. this would also changed the kingpin position.. i have a brand new complete trc fron end on my bench... i feel the associated is more consistent...

as for new style front end, there has been some testing done by a company lately.. its still in the works, but it is a killer design.. ive seen the prototype... im not sure hwo the ball is rolling on making it a production pice, but its nice...

Some did say that the flex was a bit more than associated but that is not always a bad thing really. The associated has its problems with flex there as well I think especially when you use the heavier caster blocks that are 3 stories tall. I just thought I would throw that out there and see what everyone thought because I do have the option of having it made. Keep the opinions coming though and if there is something I can do to improve that front end I will do it if it would make it better than it currently is. Im going to start a thread specifically for this so we dont flood the H drive thread with an off the topic subject. Shoot me your thoughts there if you would

Rob @ Murdock R/C

Rob
do you cut the inside or outside edge of the left rear wheel?

Tj

Rob, the setup helped the car alot!!!! Thanks.I had been working on the front end for 3 weeks now and its VERY SMOOTH. I only had to change the center shock oil to 80wt and lined up the LR w LF and flattened out the side shocks a little. The car was VERY fast throught the coners and very consistant.

I never thought about using a heavier oil or lining up the LR. I've been manly changing springs and moving the battery and playing with rear pod placement and rear steer. Rear steer sometimes worked really or really bad. It wasn't consistant. I feel it had to do with rear tire combos.


The car has been fast before that but I didn't have the right feel. I like a car that has a predictable feel. So when you have to make a quick pass or maneuver you'll know how far to push the issue. Consistant laps are the key winning. I don't have to worry about the car spinning out if I try to dive in under somebody going into a turn or pushing hard off of the coner if I drive in too hard.

sorry about the typo , I meant to say about rear steer. It was either real bad or real good.

Glad it has helped out guys. Once you get that set up working you should be able to change only tires or maybe the right front spring for certain reasons and the car will be fast


I cut the inside edge off the left rear. That will make it so it can be tucked in to keep the car turning for you.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

My only other question is where to start on the rear tires. White rears worked very well but where can I gain more speed through the coners? Pink rears tighted the car too much. I thought about gray.

Here are the most common tire combos we sell for each class.


Stock: purple/blue rf, gray lf, white lr, dbl gray rr

19-0: same as stock normally but some like the combo below

19-open: Some like the stock combo in my area, Otherwise purple or dbl pink rf
pink or gray lf, pink lr, pink or dbl pink rr

open mod: dbl pink or purple rf. pink lf, pink lr, pink or dbl pink rr

That should help yo with your tire choices. Always rember though to go with what works best for you and your track. These are only guidelines from what we sell the most of in combo packs.

Rob @ Murdock R/C

Rob
What is the overall width of the rear end? mm?
TJ

on my pro 2-700 cars it is usually around 7.80 inches or so


Rob

Rob
I hate to keep bugging you but I want to get this right...2 more questions..
are you running offset pod? having trouble getting stuff lined up.
and does this work on both flat and banked tracks?
thanks
TJ

I always run my pods offset. As for lining things up you have to cut the left rear wheel down to 1.80. Cut the inside so you can move it in closer to the pod. And then you should be able line the left front and left rear up with no troubles. Hope I got all your questions answered this time. If not, keep throwing them at me.


Rob @ Murdock R/C

Rob's right on about moving the LR even with the LF. Just that change alone made the car better in the corner.

ya I got it to work late last night with offset pod..Thanks
TJ

all i can say is the new pro 3 at the snowbird did pretty good barry one his class, but the most impressive was the new 12th scale car out of like 6 that were there 5 made their shows. so hyperdrives new cars are really awesome

I need some help I have 2 short clamp hub and neither one will go on the axel and I just removed the longer one off of the axel what do I need to do to fix this problem??

SS

I cant say I have heard of that problem with the hubs. But I would check that both bolts are loose on the hub. If one is tightned down that would cause it not to slide on correctly. Or it could be a slight flare in the graphite at the end of the axle.


Rob @ Murdock R/C

I have both bolts out should I ream the hub or sand down the axel?

SS

I need some help I have 2 short clamp hub and neither one will go on the axel and I just removed the longer one off of the axel what do I need to do to fix this problem??

SS

chuck the axle up in a drill and take some 600-800 grit sandpaper and sand it until it fits in the LR hub.
I've had to do several times when you get a tight hub.

stesh make sure there isn't a burr in the hub. when the slot is cut into the clamping hubs, alot of the times a small burr is left behind, which needs to be removed. i try never to modify the axle, it's vary hard to remove the right amount of material so the hub doesn't wobble. the hubs should fit on, needing light force to push them on. if not they will wobble slightly.

Thanks guys for all the help I got it on!!

SS

When running a narrow LR cap tire do you still try to line the LR and LF up? This is on a Pro2, high banked concrete track.

That is a good way to start any car really and then move the left rear out if needed. doesnt really matter if it is caps or foam. The mechanics will work the same


Rob @ Murdock R/C

Thanks! I was curious because it took so many spacers to get the LR to line up with LF on a centered pod.

It does depend on what location the left front is in but if you have to use an abundance of shims you can always go to the longer hub to keep flex from being an issue on the axle. or just to keep from using so many shims Todays axles dont flex near what the older yellow axles did but it can still flex someRob @ Murdock R/C

Rob, I understand there is a new front end spacer out for the HD's,do you have it? there were three, now their's four.

Rob, I understand there is a new front end spacer out for the HD's,do you have it? there were three, now their's four.

Wide, Middle, KSG, Narrow
All 4 have been out for a while now

Okay, it's the KSG that I was unaware of.

They also have a thin one that helps you run small tires and still maintain ride height. I think it's half the normal thickness.

Are there any pics of the pro 3 yet???????