The part number for the short chassis is CP-7009 and retails for 83.99.

Part number for the Battery tray with receiver mount that says 700 is BT-7037 and retails for 26.99.

thanks
barry


here ya go.

Does the HK 9000 come in red like its big brother? Lookin to get a 1/12 and this one is at the top of the list. Also what shock mount is available with it? Barry, shoot me an email with options on this kit please.

nitrohead51@aol.com

Thanks

I was looking for the 1 pc pro2 version of the lighter chassis. How much lighter is it? I'm trying to get the weight off of this car. I'm about 1.5OZ over.

Mike, yes you can get the 1\12 in red. It comes with the standard plastic shock mount either with the VCS micro or macro shock.

Ken, the ST PRO 2 chassis is .3 oz. lighter. Yes you can get it in kit form, you just have to tell who ever you buy it from to order it that way.

thanks
barry

Thanks Barry, Just what i wanted to hear.

Mike
I have the new shorter chassis.
With a KO 947 digital servo, Futaba PCM receiver, Quantum speedo, Personal transponder, stock motor, 3300 pack, body with a wing and 4 alum wing buttons mine was 2.57 or 37.7 oz. Kinda sucks I had to add over 2 oz to make the new weight rules. LOL
I have that flat slot car lead made my slick 7, and I needed to add two full 2" x 3" sheets of it.

Why did RoAr meddle with the weight issue?

I guess it was to sell lead Tom...

I assumed it was to take away the need to buy the lastest greatest more expensive lite weight gadet of the month...

However what it will do is slow down cars and put more strain on batteries. So perhaps they did it to sell more batteries...

What it will do is even out the field for a while.. As well as create a new topic to debate..... that topic will be where do you put that weight...

This if for Steve or anybody else who can help. Bump steer is when the front wheels toe in or out when the suspension is compressed (right??). Is this a good thing? I usually adjust the servo position to make sure that the front wheels don't toe at all. What is the starting spot to make sure it is correct? Thanks!

This if for Steve or anybody else who can help. Bump steer is when the front wheels toe in or out when the suspension is compressed (right??). Is this a good thing? I usually adjust the servo position to make sure that the front wheels don't toe at all. What is the starting spot to make sure it is correct? Thanks!

You're right and bump steer can't always be zeroed by setting the servo's height. You need to correct the tie rods' angle so you're getting no bump steer at all.

Like I posted earlier ... I personally run a flipped RF steering arm on the LF ... I screw in the ball stud from under the LF steering arm and doing so it eliminates bump steer.

There many other ways you can get rid of bump steer, like using a taller ball stud on the RF steering arm.

I see the "front end" has the most important area in setting your car's handling ... well, it sees the curve first, right?

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

Steve,why is it important to get rid of bump steer?

Steve,why is it important to get rid of bump steer?

Because it'll make the car steer (either left or right) when the suspension compresses thus making the car really unstable.

With no front wheels on nor front springs manually take the front spindles up and down ... make sure both spindles don't steer at all.

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

steve
when you say you flip the block over and put it on the left side do you do anything with the right side to adjust for the ground clearence? Meaning the left of the chassis is now lower.

Looking for a setup for 1/12 scale flat carpet. Track is VERY, VERY small. About 16' wide and 30-40' long overall with about a 2 foot infield. How much of a 1/10 flat track setup will relate to 1/12? This is my first attempt at 1/12 and flat track racing so should be interesting to say the least.

Thanks for any help.

steve
when you say you flip the block over and put it on the left side do you do anything with the right side to adjust for the ground clearence? Meaning the left of the chassis is now lower.

I keep the front tire stagger between 0.020" and 0.030".

I have 0.020" under the LF steering arm and 0.040" under the RF steering arm.

Caster ... LF=1 ... RF=3 (measured with a "RPM camber gauge" with chassis laying flat on a table, no wheels).

Camber ... flat tracks ... LF=1 ... RF=(1.5)

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

I flipped the RF steering block over and put it on the left side and I was amazed how the bump steer went away. I had to shim the king pin differently the e-clip on the bottom was hitting the inside of the wheel.
Thanks again.

Steve
Are you running regular stagger in the front or reverse?.......also same question for the rear. Thanks

Steve
Are you running regular stagger in the front or reverse?.......also same question for the rear. Thanks

Front stagger: +0.020" to +0.030" (regular)
Rear stagger: +0.010" to +0.020" (regular)

Ken, on the LF ... all i put is a blue Wolfe centering shim then a Wolfe pro-gressive green, large ID first and then the e-clip directly against the small ID.

Steve. :wave:

hey steve just wanted to ask you about running short wheel base on short tracks, you said you like it. if you have your car dialed with short front end position, and only moved the front to the long pos what is the basic effect on the car. debate at our track!!!!!!!!!!! DAAA, thanks steve. HYPERDRIVE/ BSR.

hey steve just wanted to ask you about running short wheel base on short tracks, you said you like it. if you have your car dialed with short front end position, and only moved the front to the long pos what is the basic effect on the car. debate at our track!!!!!!!!!!! DAAA, thanks steve. HYPERDRIVE/ BSR.

Moving the front wheels forward will increase rear weight percentage and improve the leverage the front wheels have on the mass of the car thus giving more steering ... A longer wheelbase on the other hand will reduce the ability the car has to pivot around its CG ...

I've not tested it but I would expect the car to have more steering in and less middle-out.

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

Thanks Steve.

Steve,

This ones to build your ego. I tried the progressive LF spring and moved the battery all the way back and the car was AWSOME! I think the combo of the spring and using the straightup rear pod and adjusting the rear track width to 7 7/8 (200mm) made the car turn in really well and launched off the corners. The car was a little loose (about 4 on 1-10 scale) on entry BUT IT WAS FLYING! This was 6 cell stock by the way.

I tried the battery all the way back before but it tightened the car up way too much. What I didn't do a re-adjust the wedge in the car after I moved it back. After I readjusted the LR to 360g the car was great.

I was thinking about buying the short track version of the Pro2, but will I loose some stability with the shorter chassis? I'm sure the truning and the center out will be a lot better. MY only concern is the space between the back of the servo and the shock mount. My receiver is between them now. It probalbly won't fit on the short version.

This post is becoming dangerous to the other racers every week.

Hi Ken, I'm happy it worked out good for you.

I'm running a 10 inch wheelbase ... which is the shortwheelbase on the SSE-PRO2 (original) and now is the long wheelbase on the updated SSE-PRO2. I feel really comfortable with the 10 inch wheelbase ... I've run stock, 19T and mod on tracks of various sizes (90,140, 160, BMS, etc.) and the car felt real good. The new chassis layout is really an updated chassis: 0700 cutouts on the right side + new extra cutouts + the longer wheelbase was removed and replaced by the 0700 shorter wheekbase.

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

So the wheelbase for the shorter chassis is about 1/4 inch shorter than the shortest setting on the Pro2?

where does everyone prefer to put there electronics?batt placement

Hey Donnie I always ran my speedo on the LF of the 6 cell batt tray and the reciever on the RF of the tray. Batteries all the way back makes it turn harder or one slot up to take some steering out of it.

Even though I now run another car I will still help anyone out at the track regardless of what they drive or I drive!!!

ea

thanks Eric good luck with your new ride thanks for answering all of my questions over the past couple of years.

Donnie

what about moving the side shock mounting holes in and out what does that do?

Looking for a setup for 1/12 scale flat carpet. Track is VERY, VERY small. About 16' wide and 30-40' long overall with about a 2 foot infield. How much of a 1/10 flat track setup will relate to 1/12? This is my first attempt at 1/12 and flat track racing so should be interesting to say the least.

Thanks for any help.


Anyone runnin 1/12 flat carpet out there? Just got car built and ready to start tuning in the setup. Runnin BSR tires Purple RF, XXPink LF, Pink rears. Monster Stock motor. ESC on rear of chassis where the two slots are sideways. McAllister 04 Monte carlo body with wing mounted off back glass.

Hook me up Hyperdrive guys.

Mike if you drop me a line I will give you my set up off my 1/12 scale hyperdrive!

Brooks, You Got Mail.

Thanks

hi, I have been running 61 to 62 laps at Marshall's hilltop raceway in 19 turn with one lap off the pace of record. I was wondering if anyone knew a really fast set up at that track. thanx

with the hyperdrive 0700

Hey Colton - what is the weekly turnout for stock and 19turn? Also, are they running the Busch class up there?

hey yeah they do run bushe and latly its been the bigger class for pan. about 12 guys a week i think. 19t hasn been a little less with 6 guys on avverage. come up and race. also 12th 19t is gettin alot more interest so lets get that class goin also :)

joe ivo

i might know one

hey guys need an opinion on buying a new car.700 EASE orSSE pro2
115 ft flat track,high nite carpet ? thanks

Pro2 !!!!!!!

You may even want to try the short version of the pro II for a track that small.

700 car, its better for flat tracks, not to say the pro2 does not work on flat, as I have then both. Just seems the pro2 works better on the banks
hope this helps
NICK :thumbsup:

Puf, I would have to disagree. I ran the SSE pro2 for the first half of this carpet season and it was pretty awesome. You just have to set it up a little different. In my opinion the SSE pro2 is the only HD that will run with a KSG. :thumbsup:

a good friend of mine is a full ride hyper sponsored guy... we run flat tracks... he has found that the original 0700 thinner chassis seems to be bset on flat tracks.... the sse2 is good for paved banks.... i also have another bud who runs for hyper and he prefers the 0700 also... howvwe he likes both the new stiffer 0700 and the thin...... enough babbling lol .. for flat 0700 is best from what i have seen.... flat tracks seem like slider cars with flex.....but with the proper setup any version will be fast.....

differnent strokes for different folks. When I ran the sse I was never beat by a 700 in open mod....

Burbs, FYI theres alot of full ride sponsored guys that don't have a clue. :thumbsup:

"In my opinion the SSE pro2 is the only HD that will run with a KSG."
Frank, please explain why that is?
NICK

If you want me to explain why some sponsored people don't have a clue, thats easy. Nothing against anyone, but every company wants people who are going to promote their product in one way or another, some drivers win races while others promote in different ways, then some drivers are just really good friends with the owner of a company.
I'll use my buddy Zubak as an example, only becouse he is aware of this. Yeah he's ussually fast wherever he races, but the main reason companys want him to run their product is becouse he's got popularity in the r/c community, everyone knows him. He also deals with alot of people thru his own company speedjuice, And I bet everyone of his customers know what car he runs. ;)

If you wanted to know why the sse is better than the 700,...It just is. I ran them both and the pro2 turned more. no matter what setup was on the car. Thats in mod also, maybe stock or 19t would be different, but I doubt it.
The ksg turns in harder then any car I have ever driven, a close second would be the sse. I don't know why the ksg turns in so hard, I think it might have something to do with the flex in the side shocks.

Plus, if you sponsor Zubie and he wears one of your T shirts,it's like a six foot wide bilboard,everyone sees it,great advirtisement he he he ha ha !

My own experience having driven both the 0700 and the Pro2 is that my 700 turned harder than the Pro2. This was on banked carpet also. But then its like Frank said, "Different Strokes for Different Folks" Just go with the car that appeals to you more and tune that one to your style of driving and have fun with it.

[QUOTE=Frank Ulbrik]differnent strokes for different folks. When I ran the sse I was never beat by a 700 in open mod....

Might be true Frank, but I do recall a 700 Tq'ing and winning over your KSG last time I was at Lansing!LOL Just Kidding. Nice runs at Snowbirds, I peaked at the wrong time this year in Florida(sat and sun), maybe we'll get to race again soon!!

My opinion is that the 700 is a much more forgiving car than the PRO-2 on flat tracks. The PRO-2 puts a lot more emphasis on the suspension, tires, balance, etc to be perfect, where as the 700 having more flex is somewhat of a "crutch". I've run flat tracks for 14 years, and I prefer the 700 on flat tracks and caps, and the PRO-2 on banked carpet. This is running open mod and 19t, as I haven't run stock very much since 4-cell started.

It depends what you are running. Around here the 4 cell thing never took off and the 1 pc chassis Pro2 is what we use for 6 cell. I would run the Pro2 for 6 cell and the 700 ease for 4 cell. You can run the 6 cell tray on the 700 but the battery movement isn't there to adjust.

KK, I had to run my SSE like a marshmellow to make it fast. :thumbsup: As you should recall it was pretty dialed at the regional race this year. As far as our last race in lansing, I'll never try run 1 car in two classes with only 8 or 9 heats. That sucked. see ya soon. :cool:
P.S. I do recall in the perfectly clean main having a lap on ya with 15 sec. to go when my car made a sharp right into the wall do to a dead rec. pack. :freak: next time it will be charged.