Eric,

If you want you can e-mail me and I can give you the set up that I have been running at Fastracks in Charleston SC.

Brooks
bderting@co.iredell.nc.us

Brooks you got mail

Erik you have mail hope it helps if you have any question e-mail me

brooks

Okay guys! what are you doing to get the weight down on the PRO II? besides the graphite shock mount.

pepe, i just built a new pro II even with a big slug 3003 servo
it waid in @ 2.50 :thumbsup: how much lighter you want it??
and that is without the new shock mount!!!

PEPE, I had the same prob when i built mine. Light servo, Light ESC, Drilled holes in whatever aluminum i could without ruinning the integrity, light shock mount, and aluminum screws. I'm only about 2-3 tenths ounce over now. Oh yeah went with the stock 10 degree caster mount on the right front and a light weight body too.

Hey Mike, I lost the setup you sent me a while back for the 0700 team car for marshalls. We need to get a real good setup in our cars (Joe I. and myself) to try to lay whips on the ADX cars. We had 16 4 cell stock for opening night . All the A-mainers were ADX cars with Jason Shreffler getting the win and new record 58 laps. I couldnt get a handle on the 0700 and had to revert to an old 0500 and won the B main . I know with a little help we can go much faster and put the Hyper drives in victory lane. Thanks, Dale.

My car is 2oz's overweight in race trim, lightweight body, 9550 servo, keyence ESC, Pcm RX, I'm going to the graphite shock mount which should help a little but I don't think it's going to be enough?

Pepe, With the graphite shock mount you are looking at a bout half an ounce tops savings over the alum. one. I weighed mine against the very drilled aluminum one and only saved 9.5 grams.

I have the same stuff as Pepe and my car is a pig also,especialy with a receiver pack and a mod motor.
theres alittle over a 1oz difference between mod and stock motors,also the bolink bodies are a little lighter than the proto form.
A whole bunch of little things adds up when cutting weight,spur gear gaurd,decals,body posts,screws,speedo{the keyence is quite a bit heavier than a lrp}graphite axle over a fiberglass one,it all adds up.
I better get the dremel out :lol:

Any plans for rear steer lower pod plates for the symetrical T bars?

the rear steer bottom plates should be out shortly.

The best car that I have ever driven!! This car is extremely fast! It turns fast into the corners and launches off of the corners. Its eating up the 10L3O, 10L4O and the KSG cars. Right now I 'm running over the lapped cars on the exit of the corners. The closing rate is amazing!

The car is a pig on the scales. We run 6 cell stock on carpet and I can't seem to get the car under 44 ozs.

I have a JR synth. rec, the smallest JR digital servo, lt. wt. shock mount, alum screws. I run the Lt. Wt HD Monte Carlo from Protoform with a wing. I could just start drilling. I really don't want mess up any structure on the chassis. I drives well and I don't want to have the handling go away when I start cuttting/drilling the chassis.

I was having the same issues with my SSE2 with weight. JR 3421 mini Servo, Quantum ESC, can't go much lighter than that. I have a couple options though to make it lighter, I will try those and see if I can't get the car on a diet.

This car is awsome, first time out with it we Tq'd two classes at the roar region 5 champs. The car was on stilts. About the weight it was a couple ounces heavy. Im really happy with the car. :thumbsup:

still luv mine been running it almost a year now. upgraded it to the sse2 pro chassis.

Just to update everyone, Hyperdrive had a great showing this past weekend at the NORRCA Carpet Oval Nats.
TQ and Win in Expert Stock and 19T
Won all 3 Mod A-mains but did not get the overall win.

Great job to all the HD drivers.

thanks
barry

Congrats to barry and the gang. Awsome job by adam in 19 turn. It was a tough race. Barry, it was great to get to meet ya and rub a little paint with ya. Great job again to all the hyper-guys.

Later, Rob "LT" Meisch

Barry,
Thanks for producing a great car. Keep up the good work and thanks to all the team drivers for helping me out this past week.


Eric Hutkay
T.M. Tires
Finishline Racing

I am looking to ger a 1/12 scale and I was wondering how good is the new 1/12 scale hyperdrive car?

Thank you
Brooks

BRDRACING not sure how to answer that question. i did the design for the car and some of the testing along with many othere team guys. i don't have the final word in what hyperdrive produces but would, try my best to convince barry and joe not to release a design that wasn't right. with that being said i think it's the best 1/12 oval car on the market today and will be competive for a long time to come. sorry to be long winded in my answer, mike v

Looking for opinions on which car was better for flat carpet racing on 100-120 ft tracks. Running 4-cell stock and trying to decide between
the 700 and the sse pro2.
Thanks, Rod

Looking for opinions on which car was better for flat carpet racing on 100-120 ft tracks. Running 4-cell stock and trying to decide between
the 700 and the sse pro2.
Thanks, Rod

DITTO!!!! I was going to buy a 700 last night but was told it was only for concrete outdoor oval not for carpet, but he didn't know the difference between the 700 and the SSE pro 2 except for the chassis was different, but now HOW different, just different.

REH,
Barry has a shorter chasis in the works for the SSE PRO 2. If your running 4 cell stock this is car to have. I believe your LHS will be able to get this for you. We ran them on a high banked carpet oval a week ago and it was VERY fast. E-mail Barry and see what the status is on the car. I really think you will be happy with it. Also get the TEAM version cause the hop ups that come with the kit makes it worth the extra money.

Later,
Rick Liehr
Team Hyperdrive

Hey guys the 0700 works JUST FINE on flat carpet!!!! Ran one last night and it was a BULLET! :D But if are running banked carpet or concrete the pro2 is the ticket. The new version will be the ticket for short to Medium banked tracks. :thumbsup:

Thanks,
JWHousley
Team HD
Finishline Racing Products
T.M. Racing Components
MSA Racing

I'd have to agree with Frodaddy on this. My 0700 has been a bear at Sandhills. Next trip will be with the Pro2. Even the 510 was easier to get going.

Barry, Where might I be able to purchase the RED aluminum parts at? Want to get some stuff for my other cars, mainly the pod pieces and hubs.

Thanks

chassis prep on a new 0700 what do you guys do to a new car .what do you use to cut the slots how much do i need to cut and what is the best tools to use

I have it pretty easy in that area. I have a miny belt sander at work has like 1/2" wide belts, hand held and air powered. MAC Tools has them. Makes quick work of beveling slots. Chassis edges I just get a piece of 220 from the body shop and smooth them up.

DITTO!!!! I was going to buy a 700 last night but was told it was only for concrete outdoor oval not for carpet, but he didn't know the difference between the 700 and the SSE pro 2 except for the chassis was different, but now HOW different, just different.

Any hyperdrive car is fast! I still have the sse pro, you know the 500! It still is fast! Buy what car you like, 0700 or the see2. You will not be sorry with whatever purchase you buy!!! They are all Awesome!!

Mario M.
Team HD

Any hyperdrive car is fast! I still have the sse pro, you know the 500! It still is fast! Buy what car you like, 0700 or the see2. You will not be sorry with whatever purchase you buy!!! They are all Awesome!!

Mario M.
Team HD

Yep! it's true any of them are fast on carpet or asphalt it matters not which it is.

Hey..

Im lookin for some help on a basic setup for my hyperdrive 0700 im runnin on a short carpet flat track and a slighly banked tracks.im runnin jaco tires this year and was wondering whats better on the right rear the aquas or greens??

Thanks..

Brooks: My new Hyperdrive 1/12 was phenominal at last years Snowbirds in 1/12 mod. It really worked well "right off the truck" and stayed fast all week as the track changed with not a lot of adjustments needed. It turned the fastest runs of the week, and deserved to win...if only driven by a better wheel... :thumbsup:

Hyperdrive man: I would think in a Jaco, black or blue on the RF would be a good start & maybe gray on the RR. Don't know about your track but, unless you have a tire rule, I'd ask some fast local's before buying anything.

Good luck!

OOP's sorry, you only asked about the RR- my bad.

Hey guys
if you buy the non-team version of the SSE2, does that come with the bottom plate that will allow symmetrical t-plate. I know a while back it did not but I didn't know if Barry changed it or not.

Thanks
Eric H.

What positions are you guys running your front wheels in on flat tracks ?

I'm running the pod offset with a symmetrical bottom pod plate and a Finish Line med spring steel t-plate.

Thx

i run mine narrow on a almost flat concrete track.

I ran my sse pro 2 team car for the first time. I went one lap faster with the ssepro 2 than the other cars i have owned. thx hyperdrive.

TeamGoodwrench,

I run mine all the way out on the left and in the center on the right.

Not sure for flat but on banked tracks we have been running the Left in the middle and the right all the way in.

Cool. thx.

I've been running the RF all the way in, and the LF in the middle.

It hasn't been getting thorough the middle and off as good as I want, so I'll try the LF all the way out and the RF in the middle and see what happens.

:thumbsup:

Pushing that left out should help it turn in the middle!

Is the car tight or loose off?

I personnaly set the LF in and RF in the middle. I set the LR 3mm (0.125") out versus the LF and then I set the reartrack at 200mm (7.875").

If the car is tight middle-out, move the LR in. If you have to set the LR so it is set inside of the LF, try adding grip to the LF tire instead ... either by going to a softer compound or try a different foam type ie. gray/white or soft blue/green.

If the car is tight going in, move the RF in or RR out.

I prefer the LF to be in on flat tracks since it'll optimize left percentage which is a good thing on most of the flat tracks. Only when the track surface is kind of slippery, having less left percentage is welcomed.

Finally, and I'd actually check that first, I run 0.015" of rear steer using the 1/4 degree bottom pod plate (#BP-7055) on flat tracks. In order to verify rear steer I measure the gap difference between the main chassis and the bottom pod plate at the 1st and 3rd t-plate screw. I don't file the chassis and the bottom pod plate in these areas so the measurement isn't affected. 0.015"-0.020" is usually really good on flat tracks.

Hope this helps.

Steve Salvas :wave:
Team HD

Steve,

When you set the rear track do you measure from the center line and put it even on both sides or what?this is for running banked asphalt.

Outside edge of LR to outside edge of RR (between 198-200mm on carpet and between 196-198mm for concrete). I always start setting the LR 3mm out versus the LF and take it from there.

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

So it is clear ... before adjusting the rear track I set the LR 3mm out versus the LF ... in order to precisely to do so, I put a ruler on the outside of the LR tire and then measure the gap between the ruler and the LF (hope it's clear). I then set the RR so overall rear track is 200mm.

Then if the car's tight middle-out I move the LR in 1mm ... the rear track is now 199mm. etc.

Steve. :wave:
Team HD

Okay I think I got it,thanks

Thanks a bunch Steve !

When you say ...

"I prefer the LF to be in on flat tracks since it'll optimize left percentage " ...

do you mean the LF all the way in ?? and then the RF in the middle ?

Thx

Well I thought that if you move the left out it would make the car piviot on left front more. Is this wrong.