was feelin pretty good going into Sunday! but, thats why we run mains, not just hand out trophies based on qualifying, i guess :confused: we'll get em next time...just ordered a new Futaba 3PK 'radar gun'..lol. at least i got to run some laps in the 3rd main, and the car was rockin, even w/ a borken RF body post, and turning right in the st8 to counter it! well, til the final glitch...

rcavenger your better off asking eric anderson for cap tire setups, he's the 0700 cap tire guru. i have only run caps twice, once at ontrax in nj, and the other time in pembroke nh. there just aren't ant cap tire tracks near me, 4 hours plus each way. all i learned about caps was don't hit anything because your going alot faster then you think. :jest:

OK Mike! so, Eric, where are u hiding? :)

wait i forgot there was this other time, maybe i was trying to forget. i ran the triclone in wi, the roar nats. that was an experience i'll never forget. :eek: :eek:

eamotorsports

Curt12 there are two sets of holes for mounting the rear pod, it seems most people are running the short set of holes, which moves the pod closer to the chassis, like I do and you see it makes me soooooo fast, ha ha ha.

Hopefully you'll be able to race with us some this summer, the cap thing is really a lot different and a lot of fun.

I'm sure that we should be able to come up with a set of tires and give you a setup to get you started.

Let me know,

AJS :wave:

AJS
sounds good!! Check you're e mail.

Scott,7mm for ride hieght SS and Mtown.I know it sounds kinda high but with the bump in two at SS anything lower will drag.And Mtown well you know how that place is :p
I had a pretty good setup for SS last year but Ronn L definatly had the best car that saw that track since we have been running caps there.I also have that setup but its for a racetech car aaarrrrrgggg

rcavenger if you are thinking of coming to the Tri-Clone everyone tries to get .500 from the top of the chassis to the ground. Good starting point on tires is LF=green RF=blue net, no stagger in front
LR=green narrow RR=blue net wide, 1/2 to full stagger. this worked well on 510BT

OK Mike! so, Eric, where are u hiding? :)

What track will you be runing at rcavenger? What are the specs of it?

Maybe I can help ya out even though I dont know much!!

ea

Mike V., two words a racer must learn to be successful on caps..."heat gun" Missed you in Milwaukee dude!!

Eric, 270ft banked Asphalt, http://www.iroaronline.org/images/stormsteeltrack.jpg

Scott, I think I kind of have a better handle on SS this year and why we struggled with the short 510's last year. My short wheelbase efforts weren't working at this particular track. I think to get the short cars to turn we actually freed the cars up to much relying too much on the RR tire, in turn burning up the softer compounds and running a harder tire only worked when it was hot. It was great when the track was right but the sun can't shine everyday!! Ronn L's car was a stilt on blues and greens but it was a regular long G-force. I think with a longer wheelbase the car will turn without running everything off the RR tire.

In retrospect, back when we were running 6-cell 19t on foams at SS, back to back weekends I ran a short wheelbase car then the next week a long wheelbase car. The long wheelbase car was about 2 laps faster and I won like every race for the rest of the year.

I would run the back short and the front in the longest wheelbase holes...I run the car as low as the track allows. at SS you can run lower than any other paved track I have been to. About .400 to the top of the chassis should be good.

Later Guys!

thanks guys!

Danny B, i agree on the short wheelbase. when it was smokin hot out, could get the car to work w/ hard tires, but as soon as the sun went away, the car was EVIL! debating between a 10" wheelbase or a 10.375". might start w/ a 10" (body already mounted for that :) ). 7mm ride height is close to .400 from the top of the chassis down, so that is cool. Eric, that pic should tell u alot. what about the front end? i have the upper A-arm mounts shimmed in about .1875 on both sides, from running carpet. is this bad for a cap setup?

Hey mike i was just putting together my car and was wondering i race on short tracks and was wondering what size of spur gear do u suggest on the short carpet tracks..

Thanks..

danny i wish i could have made it, i missed being there. heat gun i thought that was for batteries, lol. i did do that but i was never cleaning the tires, i did tq 4 cell stock but had no luck getting started in the heads up mains.

Hyperdrive Man 124 will be fine. i run that at almost every track as long i can get the ratio i want. but i don't do to much stock stuff, you might want to see what others are running. i prefer to run as large of a spur as i can. but if you need some where in the 2.75 rollout then smaller may be needed.

Hyperdrive Man
Not sure how short of track you are talking but I run a 112 on a 190'. I have tried a 108, 114, and 115 and like the 112 the best. Our outdoor track is 265' runline and we run 112's out there too.

I have heard this theory and have tried it with some success to back it up. That if you roll out the same with a smaller spur vs a longer spur the smaller spur will have more end of straightaway speed and the larger spur will have more rip off the turns. Something to do with leverage.

Barry, do the 0700 team kits come with woven graphite chassis components? Thanks, Curtis Hamlin.

This isn't Barry but yes they do.

Anyone running the new SSE PRO 2 Yet? thoughts and opinions?

I've been running theis car for about a month and a half now on carpet, and in my opinion the car is more resposive to changes, lighter?, and more consistent. My chassis came 0.105" thick.

I have only ran my once and I am already in love with. Hyperdrive can thank Jeff Helms for that sale.

brooks

BDR glad u like it i have been running mine since jan and love it .
i have been running associated cars for 3 years and decided to try the 0700 its sweet car.

Donnie

Yep I was thinking about getting a 700 but I am not a big fan of slider chassis I have problem with getting them to hook up. But I have the New SSE Pro2 Team kit and love it

thanks hyperdrive guys
brooks

BRDRacing, My thoughts exactly. I have a PRO2 Team Kit coming my way also. Shoot I love it and dont have it yet.

Wilson

glad to see he guys like the one piece chassis. just a reminder to all the guys that have purchased the new chassis, make sure the bottom pod plate is still shimed correctly with the main chassis since there different thickness now.

The car is great. But I am wondering if Hyperdrive is going to come out with a new car before the 2004 Snowbird becuase if not I will go ahead and get one more for carpet.

thanks for the great car
brooks

BRDRACING not that i know of.

Cool that means I will go get other one this week. Sweet Deal

brooks

Brooks you got mine in yet? I'm really glad that one piece chassis are back,stiffer, more consistent handling in my opinion.

Yep it is sitting here ready for its new home. Now you take care of my litte child! LOL

But really I have it sitting here ready for you to build it

brooks
www.bigdogrc.com
high speed grafix

Yep it is sitting here ready for its new home. Now you take care of my litte child! LOL

But really I have it sitting here ready for you to build it

brooks
www.bigdogrc.com
high speed grafix

WHAT you mean you're not going to build it for me? LOL

pepe i'll build it for you, of course for a fee. :thumbsup:

I have 2 Adrenaline cars now. I want to build a new car based on the SSE Pro2 chassis. What rear pod should I use, 510 or 0700? Also, the motor side plate, does it lower the motor like the Ad10?

Thanks.

If you get the conversion kit the pod is 0700. and it does not lower the motor like the AD10

Wilson

MK Race the 510 pod won't fit the 700 series chassis (slider or one piece) and keep all the adjustablity of the rear offset and battery tray movement.

700 it is then. Thanks.

Mike....Just get it over and buy a K S G :cool: :D

Mike....Just get it over and buy a K S G :cool: :D

Bob, rather eat worms. :D :D

Mike ... I'LL bring some Wednesday

hyperdrive should have a new light weight adjustable shock mount vary soon. they were being tested two weeks ago, so they should be in hobby stores soon. i'll post a pic as soon as i can.

Mike what version of the car are you guys running right now the 700 or the PRO 2. Thanks OUT!

i run both cars. i have only run the one piece chassis twice, once at snowbirds in 6 cell mod and one other time locally. i mainly run the slider. don't have any real reason behind it, but both cars run the same to me. the one piece is just easier to mount electrics.

OK Whats up with this CRC clicker shock? I thought the hole in the cap was for bleeding purposes. I'll build the shock, install it on the car and the next day there is a puddle of shock oil under my car. I didnt know the hole was for draining. Checked the seal in the cap and everything and it checks out ok. Beginning to regret paying the extra cash to get this shock if I have to fill it with oil every day. Hate to think how much it will cost me in oil if I race this thing. Any ideas anyone.

Wilson

Mine had a slight leak,check the castle collar.Where the collar meets the shock body there was a small bump from the molding flash, trimmed it and no leaks now. Mounted the cap with hole facing up for easy visual on leaks,hope this helps!

philb, Thanks will try this again.

Wilson

HELP I am looking for a chassis , the 700 thicker chassis and not full retail.

HELP I am looking for a chassis , the 700 thicker chassis and not full retail.
I tell ya the SSE pro 2 has got about the stiffest chassis on the market right now.IMO

Can snyone tell me where to get parts fo rthe CRC clicker shock? The castle collar has a flat spot on the lip that sits against the bladder. I assume thats where the oil is getting by at. Push the shaft in and the oil just seeps out of the bleed hole.
Any help is appreciated.

Wilson

Hi Mike, Are you coming to the Delaware State race this year? I know its a long haul but I am selfish and want to see as many big dogs here as possible.

Let me ask you this. The weather has been crap the past few weekes and have only been on the track one time this year with the 700 car. What would be a good starting point from your experience there for a good 19 turn starting point? Mostly I'm thinking wheel base, front A-arm and rear axle width, and rear shock oils and rear springs. Thanks Bill

Bill Auchterlonie why don't you help me out, i think you beat me the last time we were down there. lol i don't think i'll be able to make it down this year, just to busy with the house and stuff. 10.18 wheelbase which is long in the rear middle front also middle width both sides in the front end. the rear offst or not up to you, i don't know what you normally run, i ran both last time i was there didn't see any diff in laps/times. 3.95 rr width from center and 3.9 lr width from center. 35 weight side oil red blue springs and center would be up to you i don't think i was ever happy with what i was running, i was any where from 25 to 80 weight when i was there. coudn't seem to get that right, maybe it was just because of the change in track temp througout the day. good luck if oyu need any more help call or post here. mike

NITROHEAD call frank or Johnnie Whopper at CRC they can send you whatever parts you need..... The website is teamCRC.com I have several of these shocks and it does take a while to get them right but after that its smotth sailing ....

HI MIKEY SRM :dude:

Rocket, Thanks dude. I emailed them yesterday and they are going to hook me up. Now to get this shock right so I can get at racing an a regular basis.

Later, Wilson