I did the blue paint on the FS fins and wouldn't you know my trusty blue tape leaked. What does everyone use?

I always spray a shot of clear coat over my tape to help seal it.
I used a variety of tapes.

Hi jquestjr64 and welcome to the forums:wave:.
I use the same method as you. The clear seals the edges and makes them crisper and any bleed is clear so it's unseen.

Chris.:)

Check out this tape...your problems will be solved...
http://www.frogtape.com/FTST/index.html
It's called Frog Tape and it works!!! :thumbsup:
Mcdee

Interesting. Do you know how it works with complex curves?

Chris.:)

Yeah Chris...if you can make contact,,,you've got a seal :thumbsup:
Denis

I don't want a seal. I already have a cat. Besides, I think it's illegal to keep seals without a permit.
I'll have to keep an eye out for it. Thanks Denis:thumbsup:.

Chris.:)

I agree with the clear coat. After masking, I shoot the model with a coat of future. When this dries, I lay down some paint. Works like a charm! Good luck!

What brand of tape are you using?


I've used Tamiya masking tape with good results. I used it to mask the footpad squares on my Wilco Proteus, which you can see in my Gallery.

I think it comes in different thicknesses too, the narrower stuff may be bendable for masking curves.

Huzz

My sympathies...I knew exactly what kit and what color just by looking at the title of the thread.
It was some of the scariest masking I ever did...How bad is the leak?
Can you let it dry and try to wet sand the boo boo?

Steve

Tamiya masking tape is the way to go, especially the type in the plastic dispensers. They also have a wide tape that comes on a roll that while still excellent, is a bit different from the tape in the applicator dispenser.

If you apply Tamiya tape, rub it down snug and use some common sense in spraying over it (like don't flood on paint right along the tape line) you will get VERY sharp edges. You can even brush paint trim with it.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/djnick66/BismarckBow.jpg

This is the Airfix Bismarck painted with Tamiya TS and AS spray paints, and mased with Tamiya tape. Yes, the red was toned down but German hull red was brighter than the usual red brown.

I use frogtape now!! You can cut it thinner to make curves it works great with acrylics!!

Will the Frog Tape work with enamel?

ive used tamiya for years but now that ive tried frog tape i dont think ill be using much tamiya
yes it works with enamels

Tamiya masking tape.

willing to give it a shot. Amazon has it (http://www.amazon.com/Frog-Tape-82011-Painters-60-Yards/dp/B0019RVXFO/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1237576173&sr=8-1) (maybe wait for when you need an extra 6 bucks to get free shipping...)

I just picked up a roll at my local Ace Hardware store $5.99 for 1" width roll

The couple of times I used Frog Tape with enamels, it worked real good.

One point they don't warn you about, don't stick the tape to your tongue. You will get a wart on your tongue!

I found the 2" Frog Tape at Home Depot for $11.96, the same price as Amazon.com...:thumbsup:

FrogTape has an additive in the adhesive that when it gets wet turns to gel..They use the same chemical in bay diapers and other products. As for oil based paint I don't knowif it will stop a leak..But I always burnish down the edges real well when masking any way or I will will seal the edge with the base coat color or clear..jeff

Sorry to hear about the paint run:(I know how it feels to have that happen when almost finishing a nice kit.Did you try painting the stripes first, Masking them off then painting the hull? I haven't started my stripes yet, But will try the reversal scheme on mine. I used regular masking tape around the octagons on the floor and they turned out great. You also need to remember NOT to lay the paint on real heavy, That will cause the paint to run and bleed through the tape.Just spray litely a few times untill you achieve the depth you want.Good luck and i hope this is something that you can fix without having to do any major stripping.:thumbsup:

Do most people here paint the stripes first then the hull or visa versa?

Whenever possible I paint light colors first - so yellow first then the blue trim. You'll generally use less paint this way as covering blue with yellow will require more paint than covering the yellow with blue..

Dave

This thread has great input. Infact all the threads regarding the Moebius Flying Sub and building techniques in general. Therefore I'm most greatful! After being away from model building for many years due to building my own buisness in the telecom industry it's time to have some fun in doing so. I just wanted to say, "thank you" to all! :thumbsup: I'm having some good fun with you all of you guys and gals. Yahoo!

- Ben

Whenever possible I paint light colors first - so yellow first then the blue trim. You'll generally use less paint this way as covering blue with yellow will require more paint than covering the yellow with blue..

Dave

That's how I do it, but stupid me I forgot to coat the tape with dullcoat and it leaked. :freak: I'm redoing the paint now and hope to have some pics soon. Seems the blue is much thicker than the yellow was. I did get the paint exactly this color yellow. It looked perfect.

That's how I do it, but stupid me I forgot to coat the tape with dullcoat and it leaked. :freak: I'm redoing the paint now and hope to have some pics soon. Seems the blue is much thicker than the yellow was. I did get the paint exactly this color yellow. It looked perfect.


Chrome yellow followed with "school bus" yellow. Cool!

Also, does anybody else here have a problem with peeling existing paint up when removing the tape? I'm referring to masking over a pre-painted area.

Which shade of yellow did you decide on? Chrome, Camel, Blue Angels or Marigold? :confused:

Also, does anybody else here have a problem with peeling existing paint up when removing the tape? I'm referring to masking over a pre-painted area.

I did, but now I give any paint, like the yellow for my FS at least two weeks before I would even think of doing the masking for the blue stripping.
Today was my first time using "Frog Tape", this stuff is great...:thumbsup: As I has said before, I plan on
painting the lower docking ring blue, it just does not look right (IMHO) otherwise. It's how I've always done it.

Not often(pulling up existing paint).. My 1/48th B-29 did that to me I just turned it into weathering. it's a combination of surface prep and paint fragility, tape adhesion and ...of course, Murphy or Finagle...depending on whatever universe you live in.
I think it's a theorem: The possibility of messing up a paint finish is in a direct ratio to : the cost of the kit.
and the difficulty/reluctence in stripping/re-painting the kit...

Steve

I know everybody is tired of the Tamiya paint thing,...but my yellow was dry and ready to tape in 24 hours...no bull. But I did use some krylons and paint places on the interior..I can still smell paint...

Steve

Whenever possible I paint light colors first - so yellow first then the blue trim. You'll generally use less paint this way as covering blue with yellow will require more paint than covering the yellow with blue..

Dave

Painting lighter colours whenever possible is the best way to go. It also minimises the chances of colour bleed- especially with yellows and reds. As an example, covering medium to dark blues with yellows often results in a colour with a greenish tinge.
If the stripe's yellow, paint that area first, then mask the stripe and paint the blue.

Chris.:)

Painting lighter colours whenever possible is the best way to go. It also minimises the chances of colour bleed- especially with yellows and reds. As an example, covering medium to dark blues with yellows often results in a colour with a greenish tinge.
If the stripe's yellow, paint that area first, then mask the stripe and paint the blue.

Chris.:)
You learn something new every day. Chris, That made sense to me! I think i will go the rout of painting the hull yellow first, Then the striping. I'll also shoot a little dullcoat over the tape line before spraying on the blue. Antimatter, Good luck with your stripes this time and hope to see some finished pix:thumbsup:Also, Did any body notice the little stamp on the inside of the bottom hull just under the Moebius logo? Jan.5 2009. Quality control? Kinda cool:dude:

Chrome yellow followed with "school bus" yellow. Cool!



Yep. It looked just like the picture. Came out great until I screwed up the blue.

I get great results with Parafilm "M".
Parafilm is a labratory glassware sealent film. When stretched, it becomes self adhesive, and is conformable to complex curves and surfaces. "M" is thinner than any masking product I have worked with, and yields a very sharp demarkation line. The material can be scored with a sharp blade, and pealed for complex patterns like flames. The tack of the film is lite enough that it can be pealed up without damaging the paint underneath, and is opaque to any of the solvents in the enamels or acrylics that I have airbrushed onto it. Only drawback I have encountered is the cost of the large roll it comes in, but I am still using the first roll I bought over 7 years ago.

Of course,painting the model kit and letting it dry in the same downward position if possible might help prevent the leaking problem as well,I guess.Although,in order to be sure,spraying a clear coat first just the same might even help further in getting good results.It's a question of gravity,and I agree that overspraying is to be avoided.:rolleyes:

I got the hull painted again. Now I'll try the tape trick with dullcoat this time on the fins.

I have successfully used Tamiya tape on many projects and used it in convoluted curves between the plastic wrap-ons of the Saturn 1B from Apogee. As long as I left it slack and pushed it into the relatively deep grooves as I worked it around the model I got a good seal for the Krylon paint I was using. And in simple flat masking it worked even better. But maybe that tape made especially for masking mentioned in one of the early replies would work as well. The Tamiya is obviously formulated for paint masking as well. And finally the trick of sealing by painting over the laid down tape with the underlying color, if possible, or a clear coat helps as well. It is a total pain when you get leakage but if you let it dry it is sometimes possible to carefully scrape off minor leakage with a hobby knife.