I am attempting to set up a lifelike T chassis for a friend. There are pretty much no rules everything and anything can be changed. So I was wondering if one motor is hotter than another and if there any better after market gears and what ratio is the best ( I have no plans on attempting to tackle the motor). He only race 18 ft. Thanks in advance.

They are running off of two power packs one for each lane. I am considering putting shunt wire and braids on it but It seems to be a little tricky.

you could talk to the HODRA guys over on slotmonsters...

I am attempting to set up a lifelike T chassis for a friend. There are pretty much no rules everything and anything can be changed. So I was wondering if one motor is hotter than another and if there any better after market gears and what ratio is the best ( I have no plans on attempting to tackle the motor). He only race 18 ft. Thanks in advance.


Finding a hotter motor would be difficult at best.. the standard t-chassis comes with a smaller motor shaft .036", vs typical .059" shaft. If truly no rules.. I'd find some more and stronger neo magnets to piggy-back on the motor magnets. I would then lower the gear ratio.. your limited to a 7t pinion, because of the motor shaft diameter, being smaller.. but I've found BSRT crown gears to mesh well with the LifeLike pinion.. anything smaller then the typical 25t crown that comes standard would be faster top end.. but, slower acceleration. With the stronger motor magnets.. I'd think you can pull a 7/20 or 7/21 without any problems. Last thing I might try would be to remove the neo-dot traction magnets all together.. why would you need extra down force drag, if your only going in a striaght line?

Just a few things I'd try.. but, I have no experience with drag racing setups. Sounds like a fun experiment. :p

-Robbie

if you go for shunts and braids,it shouldnt be an issue if you keep the nose down.the tjet guys do it all the time for drag cars,so why not with an inline?find some resoldering braid from radioshack,and solder the shunt wires to the brushcups.should work,as long as the front wheels touch.then again,with an inline motor,you have far more power than you would with the typical pancake drag cars,so i can't really see why you would need the braids and shunts.

I'd first try increasing pick-up shoe tension to max and run 7-18 gear ratio. 18 is from the pro stocker ss. Get some times then compare any other changes. If you can take motor apart you could dewind arm and increase motor brush tension slightly.

Hi, was reading this post as I also have access to a 18' drag strip . What type of car is the 18 tooth crown gear from? pro stocker ss ? never heard of that. Thanks Gary

It's the "Pro Tracker SS" he is referring to. They are an M chassis variant with 8/18 gear ratio, independent fronts, and silicone rear tires. This gear ratio is basically unusable on anything but the largest of tracks with large radius turns. For a drag car you would need a lot of torque to accelerate quickly with this gear setup so it may be better to use a 7T pinion with the 18T crown.

I have several of the T chassis that I used a "sleeve" for the armature shaft and converted to allow an 8 or 9 tooth pinion. Had to epoxy the sleeve and pinion to keep them from slipping.

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com

Can you buy the 8 tooth pinion & 18 tooth crown separate? Or do you have to buy a complete "Pro Tracker SS" car just for the gears?

Is that sleeve made from a hollow .059 rear axle?

I don't know if BSRT still makes or offers them.. but, I have 2 18t crowns I got of the bay a while back, NIP. So, they are out there... but, yes a lower gear ratio will give more top end, but the question is how bad will it hurt the acceleration?

Scaleauto does not list them anymore. Just wondering if LL are available?

I have .059 hollow stainless axles for sale if your looking for those to lighten the chassis. You will need to loctite the crown on them to keep from it slipping but they work great