Sometimes it's the simple tricks that make all the difference, Thanks!!! RM

Win hit upon a goody here too. :thumbsup::thumbsup: nd

Jerry,
Great little tip here! Definitely gives her a better look. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

really bothers my wife. I like the way it strips MOST paints and I guess it really is mostly non-toxic. So here is what I did to reduce the hardship on the wife's nose. I simply left the bodies outside for 3 or 4 days after stripping them. She says it greatly reduced the smell. I'll have to take her word for it as my sense of smell is almost non-existant.

Ditto here on the wife/pine sol, I have started using spic-n-span first, that usually gets most paint off and leaves the original paint work near perfect.
Some paints s-n-s just won't cut it, I dunno if theres a different base in the paint or what, but some paint has to be pine sol'ed.

where did you get this body? I've been looking forever...

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aaposter4.jpg

where did you get this body? I've been looking forever...

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aaposter4.jpg

You need to send Wes a PM and ask him. This is one that he sent me to paint up. Wes can paint just fine but, this one was especialy MESSED UP!! :freak: Plus he throws in a few bodies in the mix. Yeah who would have thought Nebraska was a large ho scale custom painting hub. lol We got corn too.

If I remeber right it was a pain to paint it also because, it was a resin that had been striped several times and for some dang reason just didn't like to be painted.

There are many things that could have caused this but, in the end all came out well. I just let the dang thing soak in "WATER" for a few days and then let it dry out in my HOT (only in the summer) garage before spraying.

Bob...Wes do you remember?...zilla

Can you believe the shine? Sweet looker. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

You need to send Wes a PM and ask him. This is one that he sent me to paint up. Wes can paint just fine but, this one was especialy MESSED UP!! :freak: Plus he throws in a few bodies in the mix. Yeah who would have thought Nebraska was a large ho scale custom painting hub. lol We got corn too.

If I remeber right it was a pain to paint it also because, it was a resin that had been striped several times and for some dang reason just didn't like to be painted.

There are many things that could have caused this but, in the end all came out well. I just let the dang thing soak in "WATER" for a few days and then let it dry out in my HOT (only in the summer) garage before spraying.

Bob...Wes do you remember?...zilla

OH YEAH!! i got it from mead brothers. its a beautiful body but i gave up trying to paint it. its in my display. i would love to order more but problem is in resin body that dont allow paint to stick. sighh

Wes

where did you get this body? I've been looking forever...

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aaposter4.jpg

ahh PM me and i ll have to find mead brother website. i lost all my stuff from old computer that crashed recently. i just got a new computer.

Wes

Poster putty is a neat trick!

Here's one a real car painter took time to teach me at 12. Painting out a run.

When it happens, pile some more paint on. Force that run to be complete by giving enough loose paint that it can fully wash down to the bottom edge. Leaving a nicely painted panel with a huge drip at the bottom.

Now start a 2 part process. Dab the drip with something absorbent, but pointy. Torn strips of cardboard or paper are good. Touch toward the inside where it's less visible, because as the drip is removed, there's risk of leaving a touch mark. If you've got the right material, the drip should almost jump into the absorber.

Tip #2. In the event of paint armageddon..... something terrible happens and you know right then it's got to be stripped. Wipe it off before drying. You'll save soak time and thereby minimize the risk that's always associated with stripping & repainting plastic.

good tips,thanks 440!

Thanks. I forgot part 2 of the supposed 2 step process! "Jiggle" the body as you dab to encourage all loose paint to flow down. And you gotta do this fast, 2 minutes is one minute too late. Once the paint flashes off & thickens you're done. Have dab materials right there wherever you spray. Especially if you're dealing with old cans that have low pressure or partially clogged tips.

Old painter's wisdom......50% of experience is knowing how to fix your screwups. Once it's presented to the outside world, they'll assume you laid a magical coat and just let it dry. They'll even say things like wow that's great, when I paint it runs all over.

The other 50% of experience is knowing to just smile and nod. :cool:

well said!i just had to pinesol my third attempt at painting a custum i am kitbashing.sigh...

Here's a tip- don't read the threads on car modeling or track building or collecting! Next thing you know your blissful couchpotato life becomes trips to the hobby store, safaries to the toy section of K-mart, a route of pawnshops to check, 35 pages of Ebay, bulk purchases of styrene, glues and paint supplies, a long list of unfinished projects not to mention mdf,plaster and "goop" . when you are in possession of these substances you are beyond the point of no return and there is no hope of a normal life again, If you'll excuse me I need to run and get a couple sheets of mdf while my plaster drys,swing by the pawn shop,mix up some more goop and sort motor brushes.:)


Walt

P.S. Took a short paint roller handle about 18" long(wooden dowel would work fine) fastened a junk chassis to the end, made a base to set it in. Works great to spray paint or detail a body:roll:

I haven't got a tip for ya!!! I need a tip! I want to build a car using the body below. What I would like to do is keep the headlights the way they are and not have to redo them or paint over them. Don't think I will be able to make a good enough job using masking tape and don't want to damage the headlight decals that are already there! Any ideas would be great.

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/kiwidave_photos/may4.jpg

What you need there is masking frisket AKA liquid mask. Parma sells "Fasmask", and I'm sure there's others that do too. Check your local HS that deal with RCs. The stuff is designed for masking lexan, but it would be perfect for protecting them headlights. Either brush it on very carefully, or slap it on and after it dried trim it carefully with a #2 Exacto, peeling off the excess. Paint your car, and when the paint dries, lightly skuff the mask with the back edge of that exacto blade and the mask should peel up a little. Then just gently pull it off. It's pretty cool. It paints on like watered down white glue, but peels off like rubber cement, without harming what it's protecting.

I have covered decals tampos bumpers you name it with parafilm, soaked it in pine-sol to remove paint, painted over it and removed it with no damage to what I have covered. Amazing stuff!

F - R - I - S - K - E - T.... [ 'friskit ]..... "What you need there is a masking frisket".

A frisket is any material that protects areas of a work from unintended change... Can also be used to desrcibe a free biscuit.

That's gotta be worth a first time use on-board "triple word score" Joe. I saw it and thought...

"A frisket?... what the hell is a frisket?"

:lol: That's what someone else here called it... I'm just repeating what I read.. Of course, there could have been alcohol involved when I was reading it... :rolleyes:

:lol: That's what someone else here called it.

You are correct. Kraz was the first. So... only a double word score. That entitles you to 1 frisket. Would you like Homestyle Buttermilk, Poppy Seed, or Garlic?

ooooooh!!! Buttermilk friskets!!! Yummy!! :tongue:

I haven't got a tip for ya!!! I need a tip! I want to build a car using the body below. What I would like to do is keep the headlights the way they are and not have to redo them or paint over them. Don't think I will be able to make a good enough job using masking tape and don't want to damage the headlight decals that are already there! Any ideas would be great.

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/kiwidave_photos/may4.jpg


How did this turn out?

Hi Dave,

you can try to cut a mask from Parafilm-M
or other clear masking film. The shape may
look better than a painted edge .

Maybe it's easier to search Pattos Place for
similar headlight decals... :)

Nice car to work on, i like the early F&F series.
Espacially the Yenko!!! :wave:



Ebi

wheelszk,

Hey Dude just take a small piece of blue or yellow Poster Putty and a move it into place to cover the headlight with a toothpick. Then just remove right after painting.

I use Elmers brand but, any type of poster putty will do. It can be found in larger Department stores or Hardware stores.

Bob...this will work...zilla

Would it be possible to scan the headlights to make a decal or even take a macro picture, use that to make a decal. You'd have to get at the right angle to take the pic, to prevent distortion. Just thinking out loud here...
Also on another note, for you guys that use automotive bondo, I tried some leftover "All-Purpose Putty" from Lowe's. It's the same as bondo, just seems to sand easier. It's for outside purposes, seems to clog the paper less, sets up quick, depending on how much hardener you mix in...RM

The macro picture idea should work well. Just watch for unwanted glare in the picture, and when trimming out the lens image, zoom the view up to 800%. I've been using this trick with some decent results in "Windows Paint". If the lenses have a bend in them, you can always expand them (stretch them) in Paint too. Always print on paper first to make sure the size is what you want, and to avoid losing clarity, shrink the printout on print set up, not on paint!!!! Things get really pixelated when you shrink them in paint to resize them!!!

Thanks for the tips guys! I can't find the masking film here so I used the putty idea on a couple of places and it looks very promising! I will try it on the Supra!

Tip: Just paint some bodies up in fun colors and walk away from them for a while. Don't make plans for them and when you come back to them let your mind go free....the ideas will come.

I always get ideas from looking at real cars on the way home from work. Not so much on the way to work as it is a little to dark and am still waking up too.

Bob...just walk away...zilla

I have a Question- painting clear bodys do you paint the underside like they do rc car bodys ? they do this to keep the paint from chipping in a wreck.

thats how I do it, masking is a pain tho! LOL :freak:

thats what liquid mask is for !!!

Tip: Just paint some bodies up in fun colors and walk away from them for a while. Don't make plans for them and when you come back to them let your mind go free....the ideas will come.

I always get ideas from looking at real cars on the way home from work. Not so much on the way to work as it is a little to dark and am still waking up too.

Bob...just walk away...zilla


Good advice to all you wanna be Zillas! I practice it as well. Plus I steal ideas from quite a few other custom experts on the board. As they say, imitation is the greatest ..... :rolleyes: rr

Some of you may already use Pinesol to strip paint.
Down side I hear are "it takes too long" and "it stinks".
Both are definitely true, unless you do these things.
Use a pickle jar or salsa jar to fstirp paint in. The lid keeps all that fresh aroma inside.
Taking too long? Why not add some heat. If its summer, put it in the sun.
If its winter, use one of those electric hot plate/cup warmers.
I picked one up at a garage sale for a buck.
Heat takes your strip time down to around a half hour.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/84/l_3537ffa10d12418ab78b35c5827ace4c.jpg

Howdy:
I have a tip I use on lexan bodies. if it has an ugly paint job I just paint the outside with future and then you are free to paint with enamel the color of your choice. You can also use this tip on the inside of a clear bod too if you want to use enamel.
Clyde-0-Mite

Here's one way of extending the front axle for your customs. Make you small plate that will fit inside the chassis and JB Weld an axle tube to the front. Be sure and notch out for your shoes. You can either shave the screw post down a little or drill out a hole for the screw post, add a little glue to the chassis and plate, or use use a separate screw to hold the plate to the chassis...RM

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx115/rmtoys/006-1.jpg

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx115/rmtoys/004-8.jpg

Here's one way of extending the front axle for your customs. Make you small plate that will fit inside the chassis and JB Weld an axle tube to the front. Be sure and notch out for your shoes. You can either shave the screw post down a little or drill out a hole for the screw post, add a little glue to the chassis and plate, or use use a separate screw to hold the plate to the chassis...RM

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx115/rmtoys/006-1.jpg

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx115/rmtoys/004-8.jpg



Hilltop,

This is the Coooool-est idea in the WORLD!!!

Bob...this may change my life forever as I know it...zilla

My computer and router are in a cabinet on my bench, to help a paint job cure I set the body/part on top of the router and close the cabinet door -nice and warm in there!


- this also works for softening up old starbursts before you eat them :D

The rear tire/wheel combo on the 4 gears looks kind of goofy (especially on the funny cars)

For a quick fix I painted the very outside edge of the rim black - gives the illusion of more tire less wheel


sorry for the crappy pic :freak:

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9322/unled2copyz.jpg

Not a bad trick! :thumbsup: rr

I like it, the appearance is appealing.

TBI...great idea for adding more of a meaty tire look!

Bob...just don't glue cotton balls on as tire smoke :freak:...zilla

TBI...great idea for adding more of a meaty tire look!

Bob...just don't glue cotton balls on as tire smoke :freak:...zillaDoes that affect the balance?



:p

neat idea..thanks!

Does that affect the balance?



:p

Bob...Yes :tongue: ...zilla

I soooo been wanting to section one of those new chili burgers and scrunch it onto a t-jet chassis.

I'm all exciti-pated now Bob! Keep us filled in on all the twists and turns Zilla.

I soooo been wanting to section one of those new chili burgers and scrunch it onto a t-jet chassis.

I'm all exciti-pated now Bob! Keep us filled in on all the twists and turns Zilla.

Billiam,

After cutting the bun I carefully sanded down the beans just a bit using 6mm Tamiya masking tape as a guide.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aacutndryz1.jpg

There is still room on the sides & could go more but, am liking the way it looks from the top and all around just as it sits now.

Bob...more on this at the Rat Rod thread...zilla

I'm sure this has been covered before,but where did you get or how did you make the Moon disc's for the wheels Bob? Being relatively new here I'm sure it's some where, I just haven't been able to find it.

I'm sure this has been covered before,but where did you get or how did you make the Moon disc's for the wheels Bob? Being relatively new here I'm sure it's some where, I just haven't been able to find it.

TGM2054,

Somebody reproduces them. I can't remember who as it was a long time ago that I picked these up. They also make the reproduction t-jet dune buggy rims also in chrome. I did have to take a drill bit that is just a hair bigger than this hole for the axle on these rims to ream it out. Not much but, otherwise the axle hole shaft will split.

I think Bill Hall knows who makes these? If my memory serves me correct. Also if not Bill Hall someone else with a better memory than mine will chime in soon.

Yeah these rims are neat. I don't use them alot but, fun now and then. Not sure I am even going to use them on this CBP when it is finished?

Hey we were all new here at one time...welcome! :hat: HT is a blast but, you already know that. :)

Later, Bob

Thanks Bob. I'll find
them sooner or later.

Company name was "HO Reproductions"

Steve Boyd, I believe.

Website is dust in the wind, which is really a bummer. His parts and plating were second to none!

Hopefully he will re-surface.