Thanks for the advice Bob. The fat tires would be an excellent idea had I not already slammed the body down as far as it would go. Ill keep it in mind next time. As for the decals, does the cuda have to be a race car if I use them?




JordanZ

On those Bad Dawg resin kits, take a little polishing compound and buff those windshields with your Dremel. They'll shine right up, just be careful...RM

On those Bad Dawg resin kits, take a little polishing compound and buff those windshields with your Dremel. They'll shine right up, just be careful...RM

No way Randy. :freak: I am going to be careless and wreckfull and sling that Dremel Crazily all over the place...seriously though this sounds like a great window tip.

Bob...I can see clearly now...zilla

I have been working on my second custom. The particular car im using was already primed. I didn't trust the primer so i stripped it. My instincts were correct as it seems to have permanently stained some parts of the car. I have tried stripping it several times, but that didn't help. I just tried sanding it for about a half hour with no changes. Does anyone have any ideas to fix the problem?


-JordanZ

....pix?

Ill ask my dad to help me with pictures if there's time. i have an idea though. i could just throw some squadron putty on it and just sand that. or i could just ask my dad if he has any more of the bodies laying around.




-JordanZ

JZ, I usually prime cars with Duplicolor High Build primer available at most automotive stores, comes in a spray can. After you strip the old stuff off, clean the body good, then spray on some lights coats of primer. You want to hide all the color changes (stains, added body parts, putty, etc.) on your body, with your primer. . If you sand the primer down into the body, spray on another hiding coat of primer. Once the primer coat looks good, then spray on your color coat of paint...A quality topcoat starts at the bottom. If the bottom coat ain't looking good, usually the top coat want either. Hope this helps...RM
P.S. Yea, there's always your Dad's bodies. Just tell him I said it was OK for you to use one. I'll take the blame. :p:p

P.S. Yea, there's always your Dad's bodies. Just tell him I said it was OK for you to use one. I'll take the blame. :p:p

Yeah, and I'll vouch for you and state it was HT's peer pressure that made you do it! :)


Good one Randy. :devil: Dave

I have stripped the old primer off already. Its just some parts seam to have been melted into the plastic. we use the same dupli color primer but it wont stick to the stained areas of the car.




-JordanZ

I have stripped the old primer off already. Its just some parts seam to have been melted into the plastic. we use the same dupli color primer but it wont stick to the stained areas of the car.




-JordanZ

Try some fine grit sandpaper, maybe 600 or higher and watersand if possible, then clean with some soap and water. Sometimes I use a worn Scotchbrite pad and lightly scuff. This puts hairline scratches into the body or paint, which gives the new paint something to bite into for a better stick. If this doesn't help the parts may have some type of residue trying to escape, if your using resin parts...RM

I want a Coooo-ooooo-ooool Ryder flatbed so, I took a RYDER box trailer and carefully removed the top box with an X-Acto ( kids ask your parents to do this for you! ) & did a little sanding with a cheap cardboard nail file. BAM!

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aakride1.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aakride2.jpg

Use a NEW X-Acto blade and go slow.....you don't want to mess this up. Always push the blade so that if you get a sudden forward cut ( a spot with no glue on it ) you will go up into the yellow box portion and not down into the flatbed part. :)

Bob...Yep those two little nubs are hidding inside that box trailer...zilla

that's a cool set up there Mr. Zilla!!! I likes it!! :thumbsup:

Keep on Truckin' BobZilla! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Just bought my first airbrush. I already have a compressor (overkill for the job). Any good on-line resources for airbrush tips/techniques? I'll start on easy stuff first and will have a vat of simple green nearby to erase boo boos. Mostly I'm looking to be able to spray Alclad II and some stripes to start. Any advice would be appreciated!

Tom

Just bought my first airbrush. I already have a compressor (overkill for the job). Any good on-line resources for airbrush tips/techniques? I'll start on easy stuff first and will have a vat of simple green nearby to erase boo boos. Mostly I'm looking to be able to spray Alclad II and some stripes to start. Any advice would be appreciated!

Tom

Tom it is great to see another painter on board. :thumbsup:

I painted some fun stripes on some GTOs for Win43 back when and they looked great. When he sent them they just screamed for roof stripes. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah...can you hear them now? Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah...

Well my advice on painting stripes is to get some Tamiya masking tape in different thicknesses. It works great as well as Pactra also. Tamiya comes in a roll like scotch tape and is very easy to use.

Always try to paint away from your masking edged line. By this I mean if you can spray your airbrush from behind and over the tape. Never into the masked edge!! If you have a bunch of masked area all in one spot then spray from above. You don't want paint build up on the masked edge as this will cause you to not have a crisp edge when you pull up the masking because, of wet paint buldup falling off the top edge of your masking to your body and running wild.

If you are going to paint stipes make sure that your main body has dried for a while before laying down the masking tape. I paint up a bunch of bodies way ahead of time and come back to them after working on something else. This keeps those fingerprints out of you nice paintjob. Also with a completly dry base paint you can realy rub those masking lines down to keep any paint from slipping underneath...eeeew yucky.

If you want to spray some stripes RIGHT NOW then grab a pre-painted body like a Dash or AW and go to town.

One of the stripe jobs I am planning soon is a Dash Black 55 Chevy body. I will start with the center stripe first and then work my way out from both sides of that to keep them all looking the same width. Then I will spray some white down for some old school stripes.

First of all make sure your body is firmly mounted on a paint stick of some sort so you can hold it away from you and keep the paint from all hitting the body at once. You want to lightly mist straight down to keep paint build up on the masking edges.

You do not want to lay down alot of paint. When you have the stripes completley covering the main body color STOP! Thin is good. If you can get a nice thin coat that covers well then you are set. This will leave crisp lines when you tear up the masking.

Put the masking on so that it will be able to be removed right after painting easily. You don't want to leave the tape on and let the stripes dry or it will pull the paint up and mess your stripe job up. :cry:

Use an X-Acto knife to pull the tape up as its smooth clean side edge will get a good hold on the tape.

I will hopefully be able to spray that Black 55 this weekend and after you let the paint dry dip the whole body in Future Floor covering for a super trick clear coat. Future also brings the body paint job up a notch like magic. I got a 69 blue Chevelle from T-Jet a while back & it looked so much better after dipping it in Future. Future also makes windows look better also. If you have a dull window then use Hilltops secret window polishing method in an earlier post on this thread.

Bob...Have fun!!...zilla

P.S. Please post some pics when you get all done! :)

Most important things are:

Practice! ...on whatever...It dont matter! The idea is to become one with the tool and learn how to adjust it, clean it, and make corrections on the fly. In time you should be able to look at a blat or splatter and say "Whoopsie! I need to adjust this or that."

Always spray a test shot/pass on EVERY load....or when your rig has set for a minute or two on a given job.

Always clean your rig IMMEDIATLY after use!

Practice some more!

Good luck!

Going to spray my Black 55 with roof stripes as per described in my last post. What Bill said................clean that brush right away!

After putting some chrome steelies & adding a chrome blower ( It came from a purple AW 62 Bel Air & yes I know it needs to be pushed down in the rear...:rolleyes: it isn't glued down yet. ) the white stripe idea has now changed to alclad slilver.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack1.jpg

Here is a gold 55 that was done up for Tom Stumpf. I painted the window chrome trim silver which, adds more detail & will be done on this Black Beauty also.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabtom1.jpg

The silver accents will realy help spotting this 55 as it drives around on my 2 lane blacktop layout.

This could all go wrong in a second but, hope it won't. No matter what happens. Will be posting more pictures up in just a bit. First with the window out and the masking down. Then after the masking gets pulled off.

Cross your fingers and toes for me because, I have been thinking about this car all day and really want this done on the first shot.

Bob...Hope I don't screw this up...zilla

Those 55s look great! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

Nice '55's! Sweet!

As good as they look, I'd pass on the stripe and not take a chance, but any build is usally taking a chance for me. Good luck with that stripe!!! RM

As good as they look, I'd pass on the stripe and not take a chance, but any build is usally taking a chance for me. Good luck with that stripe!!! RM

Thanks guys but, you aint seen nothing yet! BAM...the black 55 got the stripe treatment earlier tonight. Ginger was hogging the computer and while waiting to get back on....Zzzzzzzzzzz I fell asleep. Dang it...

Randy the Gold one has already been done and sent to Tom Stumpf a while ago so, don't worry about that Gem getting buggered up in the stripe Phssssssshting process. It is just beeing shown for it's silver window trim treatment that will be getting done on this Black 55 soon.

Well it came out fine...Wheeeeeew! I masked her off with some Pactra ( the Pack is back!! ) skinney masking tape on the roof and then covered the rest in some wider Tamiya masking tape before the spray. Keeping any dust from getting stuck under the skinney mask was the key here. If you get some dust then just tear off a new piece and throw the other piece away.

A quick rub down on the edges with a toothpick before painting and she is ready for take off...Phsssssht

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack2.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack3.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack4.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack5.jpg

The silver used is an Alclad ( it comes pre-mixed with thinner already so, just load and lock) SEMI MATTE ALUMINIUM and will have to take a picture of this outside in the sunlight to try and get a good picture of what this realy looks like. To much glare from the inside light right now.

After a quick demasking I put this gloss black 55 back on the paint stick & shot some Testors Dullcote. I originaly bought this to spray over my rust jobs to keep them from getting shinney in the clear coat stage but, this was a great transformation here also. The bottle says: Crstal-clear overcoat for altering glossy surfaces to a flat finish or protecting decals.

Didn't need to thin this down to spray. This stuff dries quickly which made it nice to be able to realy spray on a healthy protective coat. Am very happy with how the ending finish came out. :D <--- ME very happy!!

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack6.jpg

The dang light is reflecting so bad on this picture. It looks way better than this picture. I will post another picture later of it taken in natural sunlight to hopefully show off its dullcoat beauty.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack7.jpg

Carefully popped things together temporarly to show the end result. Blower and rims are going to stay shinney to give this some contrast. Now this thing will sit for a day before getting some Mooneyes Decals on the front fenders like toms did and some Testors chrome silver trim paint will be added around all the winidows to finish this off.

Figured pictures were worth more than words so, bobwoodly thanks for your question as it helped me get off my Arse & Get her done.

If anyone wants to use this blower set up and drill the holes to keep it in place. The blower came from a 62 purple AW Bel Air. First drill the front hole right next to the front screw post ( this is a T-Jet body ) and then figure out the back hole as this is a tight fit to keep it on the hood.

Bob...Thanks bobwoodly for the inspiration to get this one done...zilla

Very cool and some great tips. I like the matt look!

Very cool and some great tips. I like the matt look!

Thanks Kiwi. The Dullcoat also totaly changed the crome up front an rear to match the stripes on the roof. Everyone should try this at least 100 times or so.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aablack8.jpg

This picture taken outdoors gives a better idea of the color of the matt black finish but, doesn't show the Awesum-ness of the Aluminium Silver Alclad...oh dang :( You will all just have to come over to our house and see it for yourself.

Bob...If paint is magic then this clearcoat is Voodoo baby!...zilla

... we thought the stripes would go the other way :rolleyes::tongue:... I kid... It's gawjus Bob:thumbsup::thumbsup:... you hit another homer:wave: nd

BTW Bob... That Testor's Dullcote looks handy, but do you think it's more of a "hot" liquid... In other words will you trust it to coat decals?... Some stuff is suposed to be safe on decals, but some decals wrinkle up sooo easily. Especially the cool ones. Will you test it?

Very nice, Bob! :thumbsup:

Another great looker Bob! Is that Foil on the trim work? Sweet! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Dave

... we thought the stripes would go the other way :rolleyes::tongue:... I kid... It's gawjus Bob:thumbsup::thumbsup:... you hit another homer:wave: nd

BTW Bob... That Testor's Dullcote looks handy, but do you think it's more of a "hot" liquid... In other words will you trust it to coat decals?... Some stuff is suposed to be safe on decals, but some decals wrinkle up sooo easily. Especially the cool ones. Will you test it?

Sure nd that is a good idea,

I will lay down some decals (several different brands) and test it on a clunker body. This weekend if there is time. I will also do one side with just the decals layed down and sucked to it with the use of Micro Sol (this softens the decals and helps them fit in the cracks and over irregular surfaces & see if I can just brush a thin coat of future over the decals on the other side before spraying. I will explain again what is going on when the pictures go up.

rr,

Nope that isn't foil. Just the silver paint detail the Dash bodies come with but, the Dullcoat really makes everything silver kinda aluminium like. The chrome front & rear really have changed also to a neat aluminium finish also. Wish you could all see what the Alclad stripes look like but, with pictures the clear caused so much glare. It is sharp...try it!

Bob...on secret dullcoat double decal duty...zilla

Nuther Dave,

Have not done up a decaled body yet to test that Dullcoat yet. I will though in time. (A Russ song follows) ***time keeps on turning into the future***

Say Hello to my little friend...Saw Blade in a Dremel...Bzzzzzzzzzzz! Picked up some of these for a song and a dance at a local Swap Meet last month. Dang this works much better than my carbonfiber wheel. On low speed it cuts smooooooooooooooooooooooth. With a barely needed,carfull trim job with the X-Acto knife it comes out looking like this. ( see drivers side window in second picture )

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabsaw1.jpg

With the carbonfiber cut wheel it kinda has a melting effect that makes more build up. This steel skinney wheel cuts great. Don't try cutting slotcar glass with scissors or you will end up with a messed up window most of the time. A good example is the windows on an AW Sand van...they just break into little pieces like safety glass on a 1/1 car.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabsaw2.jpg

Need to find the perfect ho Dude or Hottie to cut up for a driver now.

Bob...cuttem up & spit them out ( chomp, chiomp, hack, hack & phttttwwwwwy)...zilla

Zilla likes shiny sharp things!! Max damage!!! WTF is Goober??????

Well...... a goober means quite a few things actually. Goober is slang for peanut. I believe the product that brought this question up is a combo product.. kind of a peanut butter/ jelly swirl concoction so you only have to open one jar to make a PBJ samwich. Also, it can be a rather dipsy person... :tongue:<<<<<goober.

I was wondering what that mini saw was for Bob!!! I thought you wanted me to attempt a moving saw blade for Ghost Rider's new flaming wheels!! :lol:

Well...... a goober means quite a few things actually. Goober is slang for peanut. I believe the product that brought this question up is a combo product.. kind of a peanut butter/ jelly swirl concoction so you only have to open one jar to make a PBJ samwich. Also, it can be a rather dipsy person... :tongue:<<<<<goober.

I was wondering what that mini saw was for Bob!!! I thought you wanted me to attempt a moving saw blade for Ghost Rider's new flaming wheels!! :lol:

What U-Joe said:

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aagob1.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aagob2.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aagob3.jpg

Hey a moving saw blade for Ghost Rider's wheels....great idea. lol No really that is a great idea!!

This is what I used to unload silver from my brush (see paper with silver lines on it below) when painting the small detail on the 55 Dead & Alive End Chevy today. Also the brush tip gets checked for any small dust particles before it hits the area getting painted.

When you unload the silver from the brush you are keeping to much paint from getting on the surface you are painting. When you keep your brush with little paint loaded up it can dry up pretty fast. I keep moving and keep the lid off of my small paint thinner bottle to clean the brush when needed to prevent clogging.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aagob4.jpg

Now here is why I paint my bodies waaaaaaaaaaaaay in advance and let them dry.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aagob5.jpg

These will set for a while before they get detailed out. Even if you are the greatest painter in the world, mistakes happen and paint goes someplace you don't want it to. Don't panic or get frustrated :mad: Just relax and act quickly.

You can take a pointed toothpick and dip it in some clean paint thinner and hit that small area you just messed up ( just the messed up spot ) and thin out the mess up paint area. If your bodies paint is completly dry it won't be affected by the thinner and the other paint that you just thinned can be pulled up with a larger dry brush. Repeat if necessary. Don't worry if you dull the paint slightly as when you clear coat it everything will go back to normal and look fine.

Another thing you can do to help you out painting fine detail is to sturdy the body so that it can't move. If you try to hold it in your hand while painting with your other hand you get the shakey, shakeyeeeezzzzz. I put my bodies on a tall skinney paint bottle held on with Poster Putty. I laid down the 55 on a box on my lap to do the side detail and moved my brush angle as needed. Sometimes you have to move the whole body 180 deg.

This 55 was practice time for me as the Black dulled silver stripped 55 body is getting done up in a few weeks. It should be dry by then...patience is a virtue. Got Virtue?

Joez hot rod will be getting a coat of paint soon. It will be a flame job. I will need to paint the base coat first and let it dry completly before doing the flames. This is going to be a fun one!!

Bob...Can you see a Camel 912 & another Camel Shadow for me?...zilla

Cheers slotcarman12078. A Goober is an idiot here. I was wondering why Zilla had a couple of jars of idiot juice!!!!!!!

Goober is also any rubbery adhesive...

...also a term for lung oysters following a bout of the plague

Goober is also a term used to describe yer average small town Filling Station Attendant.... and not to be confused with a Gomer. Goobers are slightly more intelligent than Gomers. :lol: nd

Goober is also a term used to describe yer average small town Filling Station Attendant.... and not to be confused with a Gomer. Goobers are slightly more intelligent than Gomers. :lol: nd

hahahahahahha :jest:

Bob...wheew I'm smarter than a Gomer...zilla

Goobers are slightly more intelligent than Gomers. :lol: nd


Really, I thought they were interchangeable? :devil: OFD

If I'm not mistaken, Goober eventually makes Deputy in the later years...right?

...but.....uh oh..... that just opens another can of worms...er ....goobers!

Dont it?

If I'm not mistaken, Goober eventually makes Deputy in the later years...right?

...but.....uh oh..... that just opens another can of worms...er ....goobers!

Dont it?


Yeah Bill, but Andy didn't give Goober any bullets. :rolleyes: Dave

For you guys that like to mail slotcars in those buble wrap envelopes, to save money, which can still get crushed very easily and break the body. Stick the car inside of a piece of 1 1/2 PVC tubing, then stick it in the envelope. You'll still save and have a happier customer...Just a thought...RM

For you guys that like to mail slotcars in those buble wrap envelopes, to save money, which can still get crushed very easily and break the body.RM

Randy,
I recall the first time I ever rec'd a body like that. I couldn't believe it. Of course, when I opened it up, you could tell someone had danced all over the package by the new location of the A pillars. I just thought how dumb was this seller on ebay. Trying to save a buck shipping, I get junk now. He did accept it back and I rec'd a refund but It was a bod I really would have rather had. Yes, I sent it back the same way he sent it to me as well. :rolleyes: Dave

I'm pretty sure we have all seen those paperclips with the rubbery coating of stripes on them. These come in a variety of colors. I pulled the striping off a red and white one and used it to outline the interior of a 37 Roadster.

Ah-ha! I was wondering if the paper clip was still in there...and since the postman has not dropped it into my mailbox yet, I couldn't check it out for myself. :D

Slick trick, Jer! :thumbsup:

Jerry,

Great idea...maybee slotcarman can use those paperclip covers for his layout. Christmas decoration Candy canes? Christmas Tree tinsel?

Now you got me thinking...UH OH :)

Bob...will never look at these paperclips the same way now...zilla

Roll bars and roll bar covers.

I'm pretty sure we have all seen those paperclips with the rubbery coating of stripes on them. These come in a variety of colors. I pulled the striping off a red and white one and used it to outline the interior of a 37 Roadster.


That is a great tip Jerry! Who would have thunk it?? :freak:

:thumbsup::thumbsup:Dave

I have discovered that removing the little rear side window makes the JL Challenger look a whole lot better (in my opinion). The yellow body still has the window ..... the green one does not. I removed it with a small half round Swiss pattern file. It came out MUCH easier they I had expected.

Well now you've done it Jerry, screwed up a factory mint car :p:p Hey, I like it better myself!!! You couldn't see through it anyways...Sometimes it's the simple tricks that make all the difference, Thanks!!! RM

Great tip. Like it!

Really stretches the roofline...

I know it's an optical illusion....but it works for me.

Pure genius I say!!! What a huge difference!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: