Hello , We just recently purchased a couple of AFX giant sets with the varible power source settings . Hopefully they will leave out for delivery today. I read a couple of topics on the tracks about maybe needing new (better) controllers. Something about the ohms rating. I was slightly confused as one post says to go up on the ohms and seems another says go down on the ohms.

#1. What are some decent priced controllers I should be looking for that will work with this system?

#2. Are the clips for keeping the track sections together really needed in some sections or are they needed on all sections of the track?

#3. For someone starting out in the HO scale , What are some other items some of the more experience have found to be very much needed to keep things flowing smoothly far as maintance and enjoyment?

Thanks

The controllers that come with today's race set heat up when running the cars, so it would be a good idea to pick up some Parma Econo (around $20) controllers. If you only run the Tomy cars, 35-45 ohms will give enough speed range to keep the cars on the track. Higher ohms are needed for pancake-chassied cars (Aurora tjets, Afx MT or the new JL/AW's), or older Atlas, Bachmann, Lionel, Marx, etc. You may need to splice the Tomy connector to the Parmas.

The clips are needed to keep the track together. But if you intend to make a permanent layout, you'll want to shave the little 'speed bumps' from the middle connectors.

A daily wiping with a damp cloth should keep things clean. Every other month use a little WD40 to condition the track.

O.K. Thanks for the response . I looked into your response last night and found some parma controllers . I located some 45 and 35 Ohm controllers .

It seems that the 45 ohm has Carrea type conectors and would as you say would be removed and replaced. Around 24 bucks.

The 35 ohm seems to be a little cheaper and has No connectors just open end wires. Around 18 bucks.

I believe they both have a single barrel resistor , Does that sound about right?



Being I would have to remove the connectors and really have no use for them on the 45 ohm would it be better for me in my situation to get the 35 ohm controller with no connectors..

I would be running most likely stock AFX (Mega-G's , SRT, and Super -G's and maybe further down the road some little more hotter stuff.)

Good price on Parma controlers.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/wa_par.htm

Yes I saw those earlier . Thanks.

I'm still all new to this stuff!

Are the AFX stock controllers considered to be Non-Ohm Rated?

Which of the Econo's would be considered the better upgrade of controller?

The 45 ohm or the 35 ohm ? Is the 45 Ohm "Plus" worth the extra money?

It seems to have a 14 gauge wire with clips instead of the 18 gauge wire.

The clips are not described as copper though . Are copper clips better than the other kind for this kind of purpose?

Right now we will probably be useing cars like Super -G's , SRT's and Mega-G's.

Some people have said the stock Tomy controllers are about 60 ohms, but when I tried to test mine, they rated closer to 100 ohm (and they acted more like 100 ohm when in use).

Based on the cars you are running, I would go with either a pair of 35 or a pair of 45. If you plan on running 4 lanes, and if people will be using your controllers (as opposed to bringing their own) you might go for a pair of each.

I bought all my Parma Econo controllers from Hobbylinc. I'm not used the "Plus" version, but for someone starting out, I think you will be very pleased with the Econo's, just for the way they fit your hand.

O.k , We received the 35 ohm parma's and the 45 ohm plus parma controllers.

They are like on off switches however the 45 ohm is very slightly better than the 35 ohm but neither have the speed control sensitivity of the stock pro klass controllers that came with the set.

I can actually creep around the track at any rate of speed (actually just move creeping ) with the stock controllers in any of the 3 PS mode settings, whereas with the 35 and 45 ohm parma's it's ZOOM zooom zooom like an on off switch.




The above review is while the tri adjustable power supply is on expert mode,
2 lane track about 30 feet long useing stock Super-G's , SRT and Lifelike COT fast trackers.

Are the PRO KLASS stock controllers maybe different from an old type stock controller just as the tri level PS, that now comes with the AFX Giant set?

If the stock controllers are being tested to be 60 to 100 ohm why would I need to go down on the ohm rating as suggested above in the replies?

If the stock controller (rated at 60 to 100 ohm) has better speed sensitivity than the 35 and 45 ohm shouldn't a 60 ohm rating parma controller be a better upgrade or even maybe a 100 ohm be better?

I am new to this stuff but something to me is not makeing sense.

Pleae help me understand the reasonning behind the above reccommendations of 35 and 45 ohm rating controllers!!!

Higher ohm = more sensitivity in the trigger.

I use 45 ohm for magnet cars like Super G+ and bust out the 90 ohms for tjets and magnatractions because they are harder to drive with all the sliding sideways.

Did not know / think the stock Tomy controllers are 100 ohm . . . at any rate they are cheap and will break at some point. The Parmas are a nice upgrade.

Thanks for the reply.

I think the tomy controllers are (by some web sites ) around 70 ohms .

The reference I used (60 - 100) ohms was more in reference to a reply above. Either way I'm still not sure of the listed ohms rating for the stock controllers.

Yes we have already had some trouble with one of the stock controllers and are looking to upgrade with some parma's.


My daughter is a lefty and pulling a certain way on the controllers eventually pulls the swing arm contactor from the ohm resistor.

I think we can always use the new existing controllers and just buy some more different rating ohm resistors.

So higher the number the more control over the speed .

Thanks

I'm not sure if the std controller with the sets is different now from a year ago - I wouldn't think it is, and have not heard anyone say it is.

You may already know this, but just to state it: The ohms is the amount of power that gets burned up at initial trigger pull. More trigger decreases the amount of power getting burned, so more goes to the track. Fully depressed trigger yields same power in a 35 ohm controller as a 90 ohm controller, as the resistor is now basically out of the equation.

Higher ohm ratings do provide more sensitivity, but for magnet cars, you lose trigger travel. For example, with a 90 ohm controller, you would probably have to pull the trigger halfway before the car moves, because the magnets are holding the car to the track until they receive enough power to break free.

So in theory, you want a ohm rated controller that at first trigger pull, provides just enough power to move the car. Now, you have the complete travel of the trigger to control the car.

The new power supplies could be having an affect, and I am not familiar with them.

Sorry if my suggestion did not yield good results, but I do think it is the consensus opinion of racers here.

If you PM me your shipping address, I will send you two nearly new Parma Econo controllers, 60 ohm and 90 ohm (or two of either). You can test them out, and then either send them back to me, or keep them and send me two in exchange, or keep them and send me $30.

Thanks for all your responses and offerings. After further observation and playing around with the system we found that all suggestions above offered good results in certain circumstances.

The tri pack offers 3 levels :

Level 1
Expert: 22.0 V ...1A . 22.0VA
Stock controller (what ever the rated ohm is) seems to be the best controller for for controlling the speed and has the widest trigger range of the 3 controllers we tried. Even though the stock (toyish) controller does seem to want to heat up rather quikly when consistant high speeds are obtained.
During this mode (expert) the 35 and 45 ohm controllers are resulting in uncontrollable speeds for the car and all fun is removed.

Level 2
Intermediate: 12.0 V ...1A . 12.0VA
Stock controller seems to work pretty well at this level but does loose some slight trigger response ( about 10%) at the begging of the trigger .No heating was noticed in the stock controllers.

Both the 35 and 45 ohm seem to work really well at this level but a slight factor of choice of car (Super-G, SRT , or Lifelike Fastracker ) can help determine the better application of the 35 and 45 ohm controllers on this Intermediate level.

Level 3
Beginner: 8.0 V ... 1A . 8.0VA

Stock controller on this level looses a geat part of the trigger response (around 40-50% ) and at times has trouble keeping certain cars moving at any low rate of speed.

The 35 controllers seem to be the better choice over the stock controllers for this level and actually the 35 ohm seems to have advantage over the 45 ohm. But again choice of cars can help determine proper size of ohm resistance .

I would also like to add that after some solo testing of these features and items I ran these by my 11 year old daughter and she Must have at some point noticed different aspects of these features and items.

She seemed to have always picked a different type (color ) for certain type cars we would run. Out of curiosity I asked her why don't you want the same controller. Her reply. "Different controllers work better on different speeds."

Uhh, Go figure , Was I being beat thourgh stradegy of an 11 year old?:confused:

To me the best and funnest racing on this system is SRT's Intermediate level 35 ohm controller

Or the fast trackers on beginner level 35 ohm controller.

Thanks again to all who responded .

I use three controllers for an afternoon of racing. I use a 45 for a magnatraction. If you use higher the car will be slow. it wont get up off the corners and it will brake like crazy going into the corners. I use a 60 for my AFX non-magnatractions. The controller doesn't let me drive too hard off the corner, making me more smooth and it will stop going into the corner. I also use my 60 with TJet/Johnny Lightning on bigger sweeping corners where I can carry some speed through the corner. I use a 90 for short tight corners. The 90 may appear slow but if you put your car on the clock you will be turning more consistent and smoother laps. This is important in long races. It doesn't matter how fast you get down the straights if you can't keep it on the track in the corners. If you try using your 90 or 100 ohm controller on a G+ or 4 Gear you will get destroyed, the car just wont get to its full speed potential. hope this helps

Drew Kreibich
www.rchora.com

Hi, I would use 90 ohm parma resistors. I have a 2 lane TOMY track with the new tri level power packs. The 90 ohm is the best all around controller for most all STOCK ho cars on a small home set, magnet cars to T-Jets. Just try one and you will see. The stock TOMY controllers are about 70/80 ohms. Hope this helps. :)

(If you try using your 90 or 100 ohm controller on a G+ or 4 Gear you will get destroyed, the car just wont get to its full speed potential.) posted above

I don't understand the above post...Cause when the trigger is pulled wide open you are bypassing the resistor. Last band on the resistor is directly connected to the white wire. How quick can you pull the trigger wide open?.. In about a 1000th of a second? Wide Open is the same on all Parma controllers no matter which ohm resistor is used. :)

I use three controllers for an afternoon of racing. I use a 45 for a magnatraction. If you use higher the car will be slow. it wont get up off the corners and it will brake like crazy going into the corners. I use a 60 for my AFX non-magnatractions. The controller doesn't let me drive too hard off the corner, making me more smooth and it will stop going into the corner. I also use my 60 with TJet/Johnny Lightning on bigger sweeping corners where I can carry some speed through the corner. I use a 90 for short tight corners. The 90 may appear slow but if you put your car on the clock you will be turning more consistent and smoother laps. This is important in long races. It doesn't matter how fast you get down the straights if you can't keep it on the track in the corners. If you try using your 90 or 100 ohm controller on a G+ or 4 Gear you will get destroyed, the car just wont get to its full speed potential. hope this helps

Drew Kreibich
www.rchora.com

I am totally new to all this and it seems that the track voltage to the track may have a contributing factor to the ohms rateing used for a certain purpose.

Can I ask what voltage you are running on?

Looking at some aftermarket power supplies and the Mastech 0-30 adjustable voltage seems to be a really nice one. I love the adjustable voltage thing.

There is a linear version and another version (I reckon Switching version). 1 has nearly twice the weight and the heavier one (linear version) is about a third more the cost.

My understanding is that the linear version is a cleaner type of power.

Is the linear version better for slot cars or is the cheaper one (non linear) appropriate enough for this application?

Both versions are regulated which I understand to be a must for this application and purpose.

I believe we are using the standard power packs that come with the track. I know my uncles track is using 5 tomy power packs, one for each lane.

Drew
www.rchora.com

Looking at some aftermarket power supplies and the Mastech 0-30 adjustable voltage seems to be a really nice one. I love the adjustable voltage thing.

There is a linear version and another version (I reckon Switching version). 1 has nearly twice the weight and the heavier one (linear version) is about a third more the cost.

My understanding is that the linear version is a cleaner type of power.

Is the linear version better for slot cars or is the cheaper one (non linear) appropriate enough for this application?

Both versions are regulated which I understand to be a must for this application and purpose.


Linear verses non-linear ;

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I think you will be fine to open the sets up and go racing. The controllers included are way more than adequate and the clips are only needed in extreme situations where the track works loose.

As long as everybody uses the same controllers you will have great fun. We race and use stock AFX controllers for everything from T-jets to Mega-gs.

Our only gripe with the AFX controllers is they need to be big like they used to!

Jim Norton
Huntsville, Alabama

I use the new TOMY adjustable Tri power packs, one for each lane. The settings are expert = 22 volts, Intermedate = 12 volts, Beginner = 8 volts. With the tri power packs and Parma 90 ohm controllers anyone who comes to our house to race has been able to do so even if they never ran a slot car before. The tri power packs enable me to let them pick which car they want to run and if it is a fast magnet car such as a SG+ and it's too fast I cut the power back. On 8 volts you can run the car wide open all the way except the tight 6" hairpin curves. That is how they learn to drive a slot car. Letting off just before the turn. I inclosed a couple pictures of our all TOMY 2 lane home track mounted on a 4x8 1/2" plywood table. :)