Hi guys, I searched and came up empty handed. My older JL T-jets are a lot more touchy than the newer AW T-Jets ( the newer ones have more controll over speed) Can anybody here tell me why? Is it the magnets, the armature? I really appreciate any input you guys can give me, thanks Dave

The newer AW's have a little better QC than the earlier releases. But don't let this dissuade you from buying JL's. They have lots of potential.

Yeah, I've noticed the quality control. But beyond that, there's something that makes them more touchy, tap the trigger and they take off, but the newer ones have more control, I just don't know if it's the arm, the magnets, or something else entirely different. Mostly I'm just curious

When the T-Jet JLs were first introduced, the recommendation was to get a 120-125 Ohm controller because they were just too fast and "twichy" on anything less.

I have only three JLs in my runner fleet. The one I got in a trade is completely uncontrollable with a 60 or 80 Ohm controller. It is either going full bore or not at all. Fast as can be, but basically useless without a high Ohm controller.

The other two cars run well with the existing controllers. I haven't done much, if anything, to them and they run very smooth. All three are from very early releases.

Haven't yet run an AW car so I can't compare them.

Joe

To be honest I don't know how many ohms our stock Tyco controllers are. I'm trying to remember how many volts my 4 power packs are, I know they are the same......Doh!!! Is it the Arm????

The JL T-Jets I've run (both black and grey chassis) were a real handful and no fun at all on a Tomy wall wart (22v) and set controllers. The ones with reasonably straight axles and wheels run rather well on 18v and 90 ohm Parma econo controllers. I use anything round for front tires and Wierd Jack's Tuff-Ones silicones on the rear.

I'm pretty sure the tyco power packs are 18V. I've been learning that tires and also straight axles and wheels help.

Most Tyco power packs are 15v-16v and are rated at either 4.9va or 7.5va. There are some Mattel power packs (these are larger and have a power cord going to the wall outlet) that are 18v.

I believe Tyco set controllers are 60 Ohm.

My current track is using Aurora power packs at 20 or 22v. Probably too much voltage for JLs.

Joe

We have been using 18-20 v. aurora power packs forever with anthing from t-jets to g+ whith no problems to the cars. Hasn't seemed to be to much power for the jl's either.
45-90 ohm controllers. Seems the 90's help with less snap off the corners though.

Some TYCO power packs have a 21-22 volt output. I have a couple.

My bad I just went down and looked and they are 15V. I still wonder why the older JL ones are so twitchy.

The 4 regular tyco wall warts I have up here(didn't look at the 50 in the basement) are 20.3 volts, and the high power x2 Is 21.8 volts

i have one tyco pack thats 15v dc and another that is 20.8v dc...

my stock tyco power packs are more or less 18volt too... and both stock JL and AW cars are almost no driveable at all !

I'm not a tjet tuning specialist, but in my opinion, the minimal tunings are a weighted frontend and silicone rear tires + a 60ohm or more controller ;) what is reasonable to create good race cars action.

At 18V you need at least 75 ohms (stock tyco controllers) to have reasonable control over a tjet. That goes double for AW/JL cars.

I just don't understand why you all say you can't control T-Jets with anything but 60 ohm or greater controllers. I don't have a problem with my 45 ohm and my T-Jets are not slow by any stretch of imagination. The only thing I can see is your right and left turning as to our oval left turn racing. Our motto is "Ya Gotta Learn How to Drive It"

The first thing I do is change out the driver pinion gear with an original stock t-jet one (the one that makes contact with the crown gear underneath) and that instantly makes the car WAAAAAY more driveable. I have no diea why the heck JL and AW made the gearing change, but it was a terrible move.

Dont feed me corn on the cob ...cuz I only gots nine teef!

Agreed Marty, a hugely uninformed gaff. Which is not to say that that ratio isnt useable on the right track. Too boggy down low and way to leggy up top save for a super speedway with minimal technical. The 12 tooth set up is kinda cool though.

From my perspective the really sad part is the spacing of the gearplate bores. Much like the "uncooperative and curmudgenous" wheel base issues with AW chassis, a complete change over to after market OR stock brass gear sets is possible. HOWEVER! The mesh between the idler and the driven is less than optimum. Unless of course you choose to run the stock plastic hypno-wheel in the idler position. It do tighten up some but you can still see it by EYE!

Just a hair off doesnt mean that the retrofit doesnt run great!...but it would of course be off putting to your hoightey toightey gotta be perfecto types...unfortunately I would have to agree (pukes me)...but what's the point of a thirty dollar gearset that runs the back gear with funky lash?

Fer now I still love hammering in the standard t-jet carp in lapping it up and gloating that we were right all along...duh...slot-tards we are but morons we aint. :tongue:

I most certainly agree Marty.. The 9 tooth conversion makes a world of difference, but there's a bit more to it than just the pinion gear. The crown also must be either modified at the very least, or even better, replaced with the real deal. There is a slight modification needed to the top plate to make it all fit, and I use the hypno idler method (due to a lack of brass ones) to bridge the gap. You end up with a slightly faster than stock tjet that runs a bit quieter (when the idler gear cooperates :lol:) and out of pocket expenses average an extra 2.50 for the parts. I would still rather have the Aurora chassis over the AW/JL, but for all the chassis I already posess, it's cheaper to fix them than replace them.