Of all the chassis that have been produced which do you all find to be the best for racing, the gray or black colored?:confused:

Check out this thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=203320

Joe

I read somewhere, possibly here, that a group that races the JL T-Jet chassis banned the black ones because they were both faster and out of production. A real candy ass move as far as I'm concerned. And an example of one of the many reasons I don't race outside my own basement.

Some say the black ones are better but any JL/AW chassis has potential. It's pretty much luck of the draw, just like Aurora chassis.

As previously stated the QC range is rather gumball. Here's a link to how I smooth them out for home use. Certainly not legal for all yer stuffy and puffy by the rule sanction yer mama guys but it makes for a very nice ride when properly executed.

Cockeyed journals and gear meshes require more energy for them to break free on the low end. This is why they are "twitchy" when you creep into the throttle down low. To further complicate things, over coming the taller pinion gear only exacerbates the problem.

You sneak up and squeeze gently into the throttle...and nuthin happens until you reach the breakaway point and then they break away quickly. Similar to using a controller with the wrong rating only instead of electrical resistance your battling mechanical resistance. Be sure you know which one you are fighting before you begin corrections and tailoring your chassis to your needs.

All the parts are readily available after market and the brass tube stock is an over the counter hobby shop item. Like anything else mechanical the quality of the finished product is based on the sum total of the quality of the parts you put into it...plus how much time and effort you put forth.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=215904&page=5

Man, I didn't even think about the gearing and gear train.:rolleyes: