can it be done?i have a window post that broke after my initial repair,and unfortunately after i decaled it!grrrr left thumbs...i guess if i clear the snot out of it,that should protect the decals?i am afraid of the goop wrinkling the decals.:confused:
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1826.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1827.jpg

Did these bodies come with a decal sheet? I have one of these with the same decals, but in different places.

hey rich,these decals are actually from a 1/32 willys kit,that were included with a second hand mustang kit i bought thats 1/25.i cut the flames off a larger decal to fit.the sponsor decals were a little big,but they look ok.this body was agift from the guy who built our ho track,sharpes alley.

Typical.

Unfortunately it looks like your too late Neil, the decal looks like it's doinked anyway. To get things right you'll have to de-stress the roof panel either chemically or thermally. Splicing the donor pillar is straight forward once your not fighting the torsion problem.

interesting.so i would have to soften the plastic on the roof?the body just had a wee crack at the window pillar,so i tried to soften it up before i put on the decals,and it looked fine (before i dropped it,DOH!)so now,maybe i could just put the glass back in and putty it,then paint it...think thats the only way to save the decals...
and hey rich would be interested in seeing a pic!sounds like i fluked out on the decals!

To de-stress the roof you could use a gentle flame... that is if yer nuts like me...and have done it eighty gajillion times.

To prevent further carnage I'd start adding LIGHT layers of testors to the underside. After a few applicatons, say three or four maybe more (ya kinda gotta feel your way along); then shove a wedge into the smooshed side and measure your windsheild opening for square. Let it cure...walk the heck away! We're talking days, not right after you finish yer sandwich! Hint; sometimes it takes more than once. When your windsheild opening is re-set and the roof is returned to it's normal position you can actually begin the splice.

There's a huge difference between slamming it together with dope, putty, or epoxy and hoggin' some enamel down over the top. Executing a colormatched, de-stressed, invisible repair in the original material is about what one is willing to dedicate time wise to get it right. A repair that is not de-stressed will always be a spring loaded liability until it comes into contact with something ....then boink!....yer often right back where you started. Think of it as a loaded mouse trap.

I didnt just start out doing repairs that would fool Aurora's momma. I paid horrendous dues in time and frustration and continue to be punished for my love of fixing lil' cars. I FIRST mastered Mike Vitale's (You've heard of MEV?) restoration technique, THEN I went off the menu. It's hard to come by but worth reading if you want to go the route. What the Beer's Bible is to collectors, Vitale's restoration handbook is to restorers. A well spring of info.

thanks bill!i will take the high road on this one,and follow your advice!i did not think of the destressing factor when i originally reglued the post after softening a bit with testors...if i had,maybe the drop would not have been as catastrophic.if i had known better,and been more patient,my repair would have been a no brainer.now it is a can of worms...sigh.just noticed the other post is bent anyway,so destressing it is...should i clear the decals?or just soak it in water and remove...i really like how they turned out,so if i can salvage them it would be nice.thanks again!:thumbsup:i just did as suggested,and the opening looks square now.i am now walking away.let ya know in a few days!

Sadly those decals are probably toast. They rise up quite close to the pillar area where you will be working. Several folks on the board have had success floating decals off and reusing them...I am not one of them! Much depends on the quality of the decal itself.

Personally I dont use clear as an intermediary step on ANY car. Clear for me, if I use it at all, is THE absolute last thing to go down. I only use clear on ordinary repaints or special circumstances. IMHO even the finest clears cannot compete with with a properly rubbed and polished factory body. Clear over one of my Goop sprays actually dulls it down and destroys the luster. You however, and by all means, should feel free to use clear as you see fit. Right up next to the edge of a goop repair is beggin' to get slapped IMHO.

You must understand that clear to me is just another annoying layer of paint that must be stripped away prior to beginning the restoration process. Keep in mind as well that ANY foreign substance will hinder/ruin the goop process. That list should include: any enamels, lacquers, or other "schlevarniques"; glues, epoxies, silicone goobers and especially super glue! The bottom line is that goop is quite snooty and is only compatible with itself. It does not play well with others. Obviously dirt, hair, scuzz and fuzz are common offenders....duh.

To clear or not to clear...that is the question! Take the quiz. One of these cars has clear on it. Can you spot it?

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04539-1.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/4B160EE-FD64-4674-8A0A-916717FCE4AE.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04730.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04732.jpg


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/95787DF-FA86-4FDF-A16B-E1EDB4AF0655.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04608.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/8999FE1-8627-486E-8855-AD05E8DF8889.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/1B155A7-C360-42A8-A8CD-B53B2412C276.jpg

Answers here>http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=2713280#post2713280

I;m guessing the Vette

Bill,
If I have spliced a car together using the goop metheod but the car was spliced from MANY different color cars, can I paint the car with a single color goop? The car in question is my 62 mustang.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=2709495&postcount=33
It is currently painted white but will soon be stripped for a little more detail work. Of course I still want it white but I realize that at least is probably impossible.

i am guessing the charger,as you said that your buffing process leaves a shinier finish,and that is not as shiny as the rest.i never would have decalled it if i thought the repair was not complete.didn't think about the destressing part,which is why the repair did not work out.i wasn't rushing,i thought i could move on,until she dropped and popped as it were...i will soak it and see,i am more into saving a cool body than it having cool decals...thanks for the advice!:thumbsup:and the clearcoat idea was to protect the decals so i could mask off the area...oh well...

Bill,
If I have spliced a car together using the goop metheod but the car was spliced from MANY different color cars, can I paint the car with a single color goop? The car in question is my 62 mustang.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=2709495&postcount=33
It is currently painted white but will soon be stripped for a little more detail work. Of course I still want it white but I realize that at least is probably impossible.

I would prime and paint that one. I would NOT use goop over a multi-colored patchwork. It has a translucent property that does not lend itself well to covering sins...and lord knows I have built a few. Think of goop as a lacquer and not an enamel.

The previously pic'ed green AFX 55 belongs to JoeZ. It was orange. I knew I could not guarantee the out come. Joe said "whatever!" So we now know that vibe green over orange makes an attractive "Hunter" shade. The rumble seated deuce is vibe green over t-jet butternutt yellow and creates a shade all it's own.

To get the kind of coverage required to get a good job on your nifty "proto-stang" ya'd have to pound the material to it and even then it may not produce satisfactory results coverage wise. You'll note that I tend to work and stay in color. Whether I spray the same color as the build or choose to change over; by staying in color for the body work and sculpting; it allows for uniform coverage with no mottling or weirdities.

Thus far the only way to guarantee a match is to stay in color from start to finish.

i am guessing the charger,as you said that your buffing process leaves a shinier finish,and that is not as shiny as the rest.i never would have decalled it if i thought the repair was not complete.didn't think about the destressing part,which is why the repair did not work out.i wasn't rushing,i thought i could move on,until she dropped and popped as it were...i will soak it and see,i am more into saving a cool body than it having cool decals...thanks for the advice!:thumbsup:and the clearcoat idea was to protect the decals so i could mask off the area...oh well...

Goop is made with Testors. Testors is MEK based. MEK will rip through pretty much any paint or common plastic like butter! Tape is no match for it!

I dont try to use masking tape to contain it. The resulting dissaster under the tape is often harder to fix than what you were trying to fix in the first place. An early and brutal lesson for me.

Try it once on a beater styrene body and watch the results....hahahahaha! Dont say I didnt warn ya! ;)

Thus far the only way to guarantee a match is to stay in color from start to finish.

Thanks for the info Bill. I would have loved to have built the 62 Stang in 1 color but I didn't have all 7 different cars that it took to make it in the same color! Of course if someone want to make me a deal on 3 GT40's,1 cobra,2 "J"'s and 1cougar all in white I'd love to give it a try again. Thanks for letting me briefly hi-jack the thread guys. Rob

No worries Rob, Threads are often jacked over the river and through the woods...I wouldnt have it any other way! I cant honestly say that I havent taken other peoples threads a bit afield as well.

Whatever facilitates the exchange of information and ideas is kosher by me. Remember that Model Murdering is about fun and function....not drudgery and formalities!

well said bill!thanks for the insights.screw the decals,i am hunting down some busted aurora white junk cars,and the destressing will continue.i have been a good boy and haven't messed with it.i still need to track down one of those skinny front axles for it,so its staring at me from on top of my monitor for now.and yeah,i can imagine goop and masking tape would make a merry mess indeed now i think about it.