whats the best method for cutting out doors hood.

kustom,
A jeweler's saw will work best for cutting a car open. You can find them online, in hobby shops and in some craft stores. Here is a link to a saw offered by Hobbylink.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/zon/zon35-750.htm


you may also want to invest in a pin vise and small drill bits, because it is sometimes necessary to drill a small access hole for your saw blade in order to get at the door, hood or trunk lid that you want to open. Here is another link.

http://www.progresstool.com/cat_pin.cfm

You can find pin vises at your local hobby shop too.

whats the best method for cutting out doors hood.

jewlers saw:wave:

Check in your phone book and look for jewelers that make and repair jewelry and see if they could sell ya a saw, thats what I did and go a nice one for $35 with blades.

I picked up mine on the bay. A nice piece with 144 blades for $18.24 shipped. Seller has relisted another one.

awesome guys thanks for the info

if you need more info. i can post a link for a free book which has alot of nice stuff in it.
just let me know. and welcome to hobby talk custom board. later gunn

sure thing gunn, im wanting to get more indepth with customizing and any info would be great

A lot of good info here, just ask. Welcome to the custom board.

heres a link to get a free book. thay carry everything even saws and blades and are quick shippers.
www.micromark.com
or call 1 800 225 1066

The jeweler's saw is the preferred method. However since all my jeweler's saw blades were broken and I'm an inpatient sort, the method I used on the 250 GTO was to use two cars. One I drilled and Dremeled out the panel openings. The other I used for the panels themselves. Its much quicker than a jeweler's saw. But the Dremel will walk on you if your not careful...Heck! It'll walk on you if you are careful.

Gunn did a how too for Hot World Customs - LINK BELOW

The jeweler's saw is the preferred method. However since all my jeweler's saw blades were broken and I'm an inpatient sort, the method I used on the 250 GTO was to use two cars. One I drilled and Dremeled out the panel openings. The other I used for the panels themselves. Its much quicker than a jeweler's saw. But the Dremel will walk on you if your not careful...Heck! It'll walk on you if you are careful.

boy are you correct there. thay will jump higher than a frog on fire.
thats why i moved to the saw. takes pratice not to break blades but once ya got it no problems. the main thing about a saw is not to force it. my micro mark saw has a weight at the front and i just let it put the pressure on the blade. i've gotten to where i can use 1 blade on several cars.
one secreat i found is when the blade gets an arc in it. stop...eather it is comming loose or im over heating it. back it up retighten and move on. if it jams in the cut. let the handle go loose and slowly shift from side to side while backing out. also a lil soap on the blade will help it run smooth threw cuts. kinda like waxing your ski's... hope this helps:wave:

"Frog on fire." That's a funny mental image.

Soap! I'll give that a try. That Fast Felion is on the choppin block soon.

clearhooter using the2 car method was what i thought had to be done i couldnt imagine cutting that precise. i have cut up a few cars and had disk come apart wizzing at my face lol scary feeling i have been on a few other boards, and have never felt so welcome as you guys have made me. you guys are awesome!!!!!!!

Mostly all i do is just wheel swaps and paint and detail as much as i can on these cars. I want to start building frames and cutting stuff out like the doors ect. here is the first thing i cut up and tried to make my own so to say. Im planning on redoing it due to the glue i used on the chrome peices "hazed" everything. any suggestions on a glue that wont do this, also what do you guys suggest for filler, on the frame i boxed it in with flat pieces of zamac and used epoxy and sanded it down. i would really enjoy any suggestions on what im doing wrong or right. thanks guys. sorry for the poor pics.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z248/Marty713_photo/hotwheels003.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z248/Marty713_photo/hotwheels004.jpg

First off thats a great job! Would you care if I used your idea for the box? I'm playing with something like that also. (Look at all them Dairys) Secondly, I'm new at this and have no right to give advice, but I have been using JB Quick weld to put everything together and using auto bondo as a filler. Dries fast and easily sandable. I havent got the mix quite right because I have a quarter can of bondo but almost out of hardener. Pretty much everything I have learned came from this board. People here are great and go out of their way to help out. I dont know about the glue, but I'm sure someone will let you know. :wave:

Hey kustom- Welcome aboard- some nice lookin motors in that pic :thumbsup:

Fillers- JB Weld, Liquid steels and Milliput metal epoxies crop-up a fair bit. I think these are what most of the guys use on bodywork etc. People always have their favourite which they find works best for them- Mine is Milliput but I get impression that JB-Weld may be the one of the most popular for you guys in the USA

Theres a bit of info that me and Cadillacpat posted just a couple days ago on fillers/adhesives in Bobs thread 'Keeping axles in their housing problem'- Might be worth a look there as well. I'll try and give you a summary of stuff here though, as this subject crops up a fair bit !!!

The glue you used which 'hazed' everything sounds like any of the cyanoacrylates- so called 'superglues'. This is common to that type as they react with moisture/air to create the chemical reaction and harden. Epoxy resins on the other hand, like Araldite rapid etc which come in 2 parts create the chemical reaction by the 2 mixing together, and you dont generally get any haze or clouding around the joint. Likewise with the metal epoxy fillers- they mix together and the chemical reaction slowly makes them harden without the hazing.

If you've cut a casting out and you need to add small detailing parts to the surface then I would use a metal epoxy filler like Milliput etc to build it up and fit the parts into the surface of the filler, but if you're adding the parts to an existing surface on the casting then I'd use a fine film of epoxy resin spread evenly with a tooth-pick or scalpel. Both ways will bond it far better than cyano and shouldn't cloud or haze around the joint.


Hope this helps 'ya and good luck with 'ya bondin !! :wave:

clearhooter using the2 car method was what i thought had to be done i couldnt imagine cutting that precise. i have cut up a few cars and had disk come apart wizzing at my face lol scary feeling i have been on a few other boards, and have never felt so welcome as you guys have made me. you guys are awesome!!!!!!!

we try :thumbsup: to help anyone if we can.

try reading this site. it has everything you need to know to get started.
www.hotworldcustoms.com
great site