I have a FLY 917 (Sandeman). Was working great one day, now I'm getting a clacking or ticking sound from it. It sounds as if the gear from the motor to the rear wheel isn't properly engaged, but it is. It makes the same sound with the body off. I confirmed that both the wheels and the motor are properly seated. The car still runs well, though a the speed is a little off. Any ideas of what else I should be looking at?

Thanks.

Hhhhm? Is the sound constant no matter the speed? Is it like a beat that repeats or is just always there? Does it sound like a mini-playing card in the spoke of a bicycle wheel's spokes? If you lift the cars rear-end while the front end is still engaged in the slot and then rev the car up, do you still hear the noise? Just trying to get a better idea of what you are hearing. Got a few ideas.

PD2:thumbsup:

No, it varies with the speed of the engine/wheels. It is, indeed, almost like the ol' Ace playing cards in your bicycle spokes. It does occur when I lift the rear as well as when the body has been removed (which is a little challenging due to the way the two halves of the chassis come together). It acts as though there is some obstruction around the wheel or gears, but I've not been able to find anything.

I am betting you have a chipped tooth or divot in one of your rear gears. try removing your rear axel and see if it goes away, if not it may be something lodged in the motor itself.


dave

I am betting you have a chipped tooth or divot in one of your rear gears. try removing your rear axel and see if it goes away, if not it may be something lodged in the motor itself.


dave

Exactly where I was going Dave! Either that or the pinion gear is spinning on the motor when force/weight is pushing against it, like in the corners, etc.

Try both of our suggestions Peacefield and see if that helps you find the issue.

PD2:thumbsup:

I think I've found it. The small gear on the rod that passes through motor and transfers the power to the larger gear on the axle (pardon my lack of understanding for the correct terms) has a hairline crack from the valley between two teeth to that rod. So my questions include:
- Is that small gear repairable? Some super glue and good to go or it needs to be replaced?
- If it does need replacement, does it just pull off and the new one just slides on? There's no adhesive?
- Where can I find a replacement?

Thanks for all of the insights and help.

usually you can just replace the whole axle/gear assembly.the bearings on all the 1/32 cars i have seen just press fit in,be they plastic or brass.my suggestion would be go online to the maker's site and find the part you need and order it from your LHS.these gears are usually bonded pretty good to the axle,as they are glued to a splined section on the axle most times.just my two cents!

I think I've found it. The small gear on the rod that passes through motor and transfers the power to the larger gear on the axle (pardon my lack of understanding for the correct terms) has a hairline crack from the valley between two teeth to that rod. So my questions include:
- Is that small gear repairable? Some super glue and good to go or it needs to be replaced?
- If it does need replacement, does it just pull off and the new one just slides on? There's no adhesive?
- Where can I find a replacement?

Thanks for all of the insights and help.

That is called a pinion gear. The gear that goes on the shaft or rod that passes through a motor is the pinion gear. The Gear that passes through the rear axle of the car is called a crown gear.

I thought this might be the issue - have had that happen before on one of my other cars. The molding was probably not that great for the pinion and it split at the seam of the molding.

Yes, the small gear is replaceable. You could try to super glue it back for now, but I'd recommend removing it from the motor shaft before doing that and ONLY place glue where the seam is - try not to get any in betweeb the teeth of the gears where the gear needs to mesh with the crown gear.

Yes, you just pull that gear off and push on a new one. Now, the old one is obviously going to come off a lot easier than the if it had not split open. That means when you put on the new one, it is going to be a bit hard. The other thing you will need to do is mark where the pinion is on the shaft. Take a sharpie marker and just make some marks where the back of the pinion (part facing the motor) is located now. This makes sure that when you install the replacement pinion it goes back in the right place to properly mesh up with the crown gear.

FLY replacement pinions for the 917 Porsche can usually be found where FLY cars are sold. Electric Dreams seems to have pinions for FLY's:

http://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/fly-parts-by-category-fly-gears-c-3_340_346.html

What you will need to do is count the number of teeth on that pinion gear and make sure you get the same number of teeth. Take a look at the list that they have and see if any look like the pinion that you have on the motor shaft now.

When you get your replacement pinion its VERY important that pinion goes back on that motor shaft straight or it will eat up the crown gear because of improper meshing. So, find a clean, flat surface and put the pinion face down on it so that the part that goes toward the motor's can is facing up. Take the motor and line up the motor shaft to match up to the pinions hole and try to push the motor down on the shaft as easy and evenly as possible. It's going to be tight - no, do not lubricate it at all as that will cause the pinion to just spin on the motor shaft once its installed. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the motor shaft itself - you should not put all your weight into. Once the pinion is on and installed in the same place the old one is, replace the motor in the car and be careful when meshing the pinion and crown gear back together - you don't want to chip and teeth on either gear.

Test it out by holding the rear of the car up while letting the front engage the slot and rails and slowly squeeze the controller trigger. See whether or not the gear is engaging good and make sure there are no sounds like before. Once you know all is good, replace the body and have fun!

Hope this helps you get back up and going!

PD2:thumbsup:

Wow, thanks for that detailed response. Given how inexpensive they are, I'll probably just go with a replacment. Thanks for the thorough instructions and link!

oops!sorry!i was thinking you meant the crown gear,peacefield!pinions are easily replaced.the crown is the pain!

There is a special little tool available for removing pinion gears that costs about $10. It is easy to use and is gentle on the shaft and gear. I usually put pinions back on by squeezing the motor shaft (armature) and gear with a vice. (gently)

here's an example of a tool made for this by cox,back in the late 60's
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1877.jpg

Wow, thanks for that detailed response. Given how inexpensive they are, I'll probably just go with a replacment. Thanks for the thorough instructions and link!

You are welcome. As Slotnewbie and Jeff both said, there are tools out there for pulling and installing pinions to make sure that you do not mess up the gear or the motor shaft (armature as Jeff said).

Hudy makes a great line of tools - here is the puller:

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=274&kategoria=69

And here is the press:

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=275&kategoria=69

Since your pinion is split and probably will just slip off, the puller, right now, should not be necessary - if I'm not mistaken, the pinion will just slip off.

The press is nice because it takes the concern of pressing the pinion on square and without messing up the armature.

Glad we could all help you out!

PD2:thumbsup: