save you cash and just go brushless :lol:

but seriously, a basic lenier (sp?) BL system is what, 100- 150 bucks? after going through motors and EVXs, it just might be worth it. personally, im shooting for dual hackers. no better conversation piece then "i spent 1K on electric motors."

dual hackers? Dang thats a lot of power. In the 2003 rcca monster truck edition a guy did that. It says that his truck's drivetrain only lasted a few minutes with both of them.

thats why you have to spend another 1 - 2k to get the drivetrain worthy of the power.

isnt this a great hobby we have?

truly it is
ah heck why dont you just take your emaxx to a machine shop and ask them to make you a complete titanium drivetrain, from the gears to the diffs to the driveshafts. That should easily meet (or beat) your price quota.
Well, at least in rc a $40 dollar hop up lasts longer than a $40 dollar case of PMI Premiums.

If you do enough looking you can buy everything without custom fabrication. steel Idlers, 1/8th scale diff conversions & CVD's all around is all you should need, all for under $600 I believe.

Well, at least in rc a $40 dollar hop up lasts longer than a $40 dollar case of PMI Premiums.

yeah, i guess your right. anyways, got the spudnuk'l bolt and 32* valve on. working great! just need an e-frame now....


and tom, its called overkill. if your going that big, you have to get the best and most expensive parts avalible....

cool...
Is there really such a thing as overkill? That would be pretty cool to have a dual brushless 1/8 scale e-maxx. I think that the 1/8 scale drivetrain is probably one of the best. Not too many components to break, big gears, and huge, beefy diffs.

Sorry about being OT, but what kind of difference did you see in performance w/ the bolt and valve? If you dont mind, please PM me or just post here

yeah, 1/8 diffs are the way to go. i have spent WAY to much time messing with the stock diffs. i forgot who, but someone was going to make a bulletproof tranny for the maxx. that, besides the diff and axles, is the weakest point on the maxx. with the stock motors and mild- mod motors its fine, but once you get into brushless and other high- power motors, you might as well wave goodbye to the tranny.

so far the bolt is the best because there is no longer "scarring" of the enternals (you know, those gouges (sp) you get in the bolt?). the valve... well..., it was more of a replacement for a "modification" that went wrong :lol:

I've snapped a few driveshafts with just the stock motors, so brushless motors would kill my tranny. But you have the new and improved shafts, right?

Yeah my stock bolt gets pretty scratched up. The bolt you bought is made of nylon and not delrin so it doesn't swell up, right? and as for mods gone wrong, I know what you mean. When I was installing my CP flame drop forward, my macroline was bent at a very sharp angle, so I bought a 90* elbow. Lets see now: my spyder has metric threads, but I bought an american air fitting. confusing the resistance for just being new threads, I cranked it down really hard. Aired it up and it leaked terribly. I screwed up the threads so bad not even the stock fitting worked. Of course the broken part is the filter attatched to the reg, which I would have to order some kingman. I just put the new elbow in really tight and JB Welded it on, sealling the threads. It doesn't leak, but I cant remove the elbow now.

"new and improved" up front, MIP CVDs in the rear.

bolt is nylon and is supposed to be "self lubricating." geeze, looks like you had some trouble with the macroline. i just had my "pro" shop install it for me. the installation was free, i didnt care... oh, and it re-cocks at around 550 PSI. before the valve and bolt it was more like 800PSI

I'd like cvd's but there are quite a few other things i need.

Well, I thought installing new air fittings would be easy, and if the threads were right it would have been. They also do free repairs (I've had to take my hpa tank in twice). I just need to write them a letter. Do you remember my friend you talked to in the chat room? He and I are sponsored by them, but I haven't been there in 2 months, so I feel kind of bad. So the moral of the story is... Shop at Paintball Pro Gear!! paintballprogear.com

oh and i forgot this in my last post, but 550 psi? thats pretty good. I'm shooting 270 at 650 psi. I think I'll try to reduce that.
Sorry about this being off topic. If any of you other three or four guys that use this thread mind, just tell me. It shouldn't bother you, considering I don't normally just post something about paintball, plus you could just read right over it. Still, if you mind, just tell me.

i had money at the time that i purchased the CVDs, and it seemed like a worth-while cause

550 is just a guesstimation FYI. the gun "burps" at around 450, so im assuming that it recocks at 550. need an inline reg and guage thats actually ON the gun to make sure (but getting an e-frame first)

e-frame=fun

one thing to never underestimate about the eframe is that it clicks when you pull the trigger. As that guy you talked to in the chatroom likes to say, it's pimp.

as for what you said in your last post, rear cvd's would be a definite worthwile cause, although I snap front shafts before the rear one normally

Gotta figure what to do to mine to get my 5.5 minutes of run time back! I dumped every run at the last race. I just took the whole truck apart not too long ago and cleaned all the bearings... Nothing seems to be binding the driveline... Maybe my new batteries are thrashed? Doubt it... But maybe I'll cycle them a couple times and check discharge time.

try charging the batteries at less amps. supposed to give you more runtime, but decreases "punch." i noticed my runtimes were about two minutes longer when I started chargin at 3.0 amps Vs. 4.5 amps. however, i also noticed a decrease in wheelie power and top speed.

JB- if your encredibly (sp?) desperate (sp?) i believe MIP sells front, rear, and center shiny CVDs for around 100 bucks. however, that would mean two less cases to shoot... :p


uggh, this means i have to find the emaxx forum, which goes dead for a week then comes back, in the offroad section...

I usually charge at 5.5 amps, the last run I re-charged at 4 amps. Don't think it helped...

other then that, clean out all the junk in the motors with motor spray, re- lube the bushings, and make sure the tranny and diffs have some grease on them. also, using lighter wheels/ tires will decrease rotating mass, meaning quicker spool up and less strain on the motor. lighting the chassis might help, too. if all else fails, add some teeth to the spur or take some away from the pinion. cant think of anything else....

Tom,

Which brand and size of batt are you using?

Do you feel like discussing the single gear mod you did? If so my first ? is why?

I'm looking for chassis choices that meet these specs:

holds 8 cells inline (sidebyside) on each side total 16
holds batteries under the chassis (even with the braces)
is not metal (can be longer than stock)

So inotherwords I want a lower center of gravity and longer to hold my 8 cell packs .

Any ideas?

JB- if your encredibly (sp?) desperate (sp?) i believe MIP sells front, rear, and center shiny CVDs for around 100 bucks. however, that would mean two less cases to shoot... :p

...

I may go for that later (or christmas, perhaps?). my summer job became a year round job, so I'm happy about that.

Tom,

Which brand and size of batt are you using?

Do you feel like discussing the single gear mod you did? If so my first ? is why?

First off, Smoe - I was using brand new motors the last 2 runs.

Bill - I'm using ProMatch GP3300's with 420-423 runtime & 1.166-1.169 volts at 30 amps. They should be PLEANTY for 5 min in the MAXX!

I did the single gear mod mostly to eliminate the slop in the trans between forward & brake and on power & off power. eliminating the other gears in the trans as rotating mass was just a bonus. Since I never used 1st gear anyway, I figured what the heck, do the Mod. I did it in a way that I can change it back at any time.

As Tom is aware, I did the same mod. mine was permanent however. THere are a lot of things you can do to an e-maxx. Not many of them are free and improve performance so much as locking the slop out of the tranny.

I'm looking for chassis choices that meet these specs:

holds 8 cells inline (sidebyside) on each side total 16
holds batteries under the chassis (even with the braces)
is not metal (can be longer than stock)

So inotherwords I want a lower center of gravity and longer to hold my 8 cell packs .

Any ideas?


there are two chassis that fit part(s) of your description. both are built by www.bomb-proofproducts.com
the racebomb chassis lowers the center of gravity, but arent mounted under it (they are held a little higher then the stock braces, so they are still very low), is made with lexan as the primary ingredent (sp?) instead of metal, and can hold more then eight batteries (but they have to be stacked atop each other).
the torpedo does not lower the center of gravity, but holds more cells then you know what to do with. once again, its primarily made of lexan.
if those two dont fit your fancy, then i guess you'll be runnin a modded stock chassis....

You run one of these chassis?
will the race bomb hold all 8 in a row?

Just got an easy question guys......can the EVX Novak speedo and stock motors that comes with the E-Maxx, handle 7 cell packs? I was thinking of throwing a couple of those motors that Reedy makes specifically for the Maxx (called Reedy Maxx motors I think...I believe they're 19 turn motors) and adding 7 cell 3000's as well. Can the EVX handle all of this without blowing?

The evx is ok with 14 cells only with the stock titans (i think they are 23or 24 turn)

I think you would be ok with those 19 turn motors and 12 cells though.

My brand new evx blew up finally my maxx is all stock

if those two dont fit your fancy, then i guess you'll be runnin a modded stock chassis....[/QUOTE]

Anyone running a lengthened stocker, I've really been eyeing it up that way, but the racebomb looks too good. Maybe for next year if I have the cash.

I have only 8 runs on my stocker, and I think my evx is cutting out. At the beginning of the run it will stop and then start for about 2-3 minutes and then is ok the rest of the run. When I squeeze full trigger, the lite is green, but nothing happens (only steering) Is that my esc thermal??

I figured out my problem after very intermottent troubles it was the esc, A new one works perfectly.

Also I put a new diff in the rear cuz the bearing were worn out allowing it to slip gears.

Thanks for the tips guys.

Bearings worn out? first time I've heard that one!

Yea, go figure it only has about 20 runs on it and the front diff is stripping too. I read another post someone else was having same touble too.

Maybe it was the sand pile. I'm pretty happy though the E is back running although only 12 cells now I had to go back to 2400's cuz I wasted a cell on my 3000's

Oh I just remembered . I found a good way to charge up all 16 cells together with my Triton charger at 5 amps. Works great if your batts are matched up fairly close.

You run one of these chassis?
will the race bomb hold all 8 in a row?

no, with the race bomb you will have to stack the eighth cell on top of the other seven. i wish i was running one of these chassis, but money problems are keeping me from it...


Anyone running a lengthened stocker

i mean a stock modified chassis that holds the cells on the bottom of the plasic plate, instead of on top, not a lengthened one. sorry for the confusion.

Oh darn I want all mine in a line.
Yea, I have my chassis set up that way now with the batts underneath. It helps alot.

Hey thanks for the info.

Concerning the first gear lock out mod for the truck, our E-maxx is still new, maybe 20 runs, so I'm not seeing the slop you are speaking of. How long before I can expect things to loosen up?

Tom, you have not mentioned your run time issue. Have you found out why it was running for such a short time? The batts your using have given our maxx at least 10 mins of run time.

The "slop" we are referring to is designed in so that you can change gears on-the-fly. There are the two gears (low and high) in the tranny case. there is (what I call) a "floater" between the two that slides to either side to engage the selected gear. The floater has two small cams on each side that lock into slots on the gear that it is pressed against. These slots are about 70% of the gear circumference. The cams are about 20%. Basically that means the floater will "wind up" before it catches the gear. When you hit the throttle the maxx will hesitate before taking off. Then what happens is "gear slap". You are actually creating a greater force on the entire drivetrain by allowing this momentum to build up before catching the gear. This is why people are twisting sliders, spinning wheel hex's, stripping gears and diffs, etc...
Once you take it apart you'll see exactly what I mean.
As far as HOW to do the modification: Tom screwed the floater (I glued it) to the high gear and removed the low gear and all the shifting mechanicals. Both held up just fine under our conditions (low to medium traction racing). You will need to be a little creative with some spacers in place of the low gear. I also placed a few of those large soft body washers on the shaft to put a little pressure towards the high gear in case the glue were to break loose.
see attached pic.

The slop we refer to isn't really all that noticeable in your normal driving, it is noticeable when you sit the truck down and roll it forward and see the motors turn, then roll it backwards until the motors turn again... that distance is the "Slop". It's designed that way for better shifting on the fly and such. The modification Kevin and I did eliminates 95% of that "Slop" fo more immediate response between braking and accelleration.

In answer to your question of run time, I haven't even looked at it. I'll probably cycle the batteries a couple times this weekend but I probably wont do anything with the truck for a few weeks, just not up to tearing it apart yet! The next race for it will be November 22, so I'm not in a huge hurry. I got the Pede to play with!

lots of slop in the stock tranny. i would do the mod you guys described if i didnt like the wheelies so much :lol:

i've dwindled my list of chargers down to two: the reedy quasar (not the pro, the $100 one) and the duratrax delux pulse. Im leaning toward the duratrax one because it has discharge and saves me $20 that i can spend on converting my stick packs to side-by-sides.

edit- is it just me, or have i had 403 posts for about five posts?

One thing to think about on a discharge option is if it is a viable discharge rate, if it's only 10 amps or less, you'd be better off fabricating a light bulb discharger. I personally don't dee the point of discharging at less than 20 amps.

As for your post count, it updates after every post and updates on every post you made, I'll have 874 after this post and all 874 of them will say "874" at the bottom.

.....Or until I post again..... 875! Doh!.......

Great info guys on the gear mod, thanks. Kevin the attachment helped a lot. Now I understand what both of you are going for with the mod and now understand the why. Kevin likes to drive his maxx as a crawler and as a speeder so for the mean time i think I will leave it as is.

Tom I understand what you mean about waiting until you feel like working on the trucks. If I try and do something on these vehicles when I'm not in the mood I will mess it up for sure. Other than trying to charge your batts at 3 or 4 amps, which will encourage longer run times, the only other thing I can think of is that you got something binding someplace which is causing friction. Keep us informed when you find out what is happening.

Smojoe, I've been very impressed with Duratrax's Piranha Digital Peak charger ($50). The only problem I've found is that when pluged into the wall it will only charge at 4 amps max. You will need to use the battery clips on a 12 volt system to get a full 6 amp charge. The reason I suggested it is because I've been having trouble keeping all my batts charged with the power eating emaxx needing two batts per run. For the same amount of cash you could have two chargers working for you at the same time.

Thanks again guys.

Piranha digital should do only 3 amps on ac and 5 amps on dc.

I have the lineup of intellipeaks for sale by the way.

does the piranha have an internal fan? thats the reason im replacing the 959, i sorta.... cooked it (literally. it started smoking) and i dont need two chargers, i can just go inside and watch simpsons while the batts are charging.

so how much you sellin the deluxe for, guver?

edit- alas, the post counter is working....

lots of slop in the stock tranny. i would do the mod you guys described if i didnt like the wheelies so much :lol:

i've dwindled my list of chargers down to two: the reedy quasar (not the pro, the $100 one) and the duratrax delux pulse. Im leaning toward the duratrax one because it has discharge and saves me $20 that i can spend on converting my stick packs to side-by-sides.

edit- is it just me, or have i had 403 posts for about five posts?

the quasar looks great, but i think you have to buy a power supply for it.
Converting your stick packs to side by side packs? cool I did that with my packs and they run well
Having post count problems? me too... I went from 520+ to 509

does the piranha have an internal fan? thats the reason im replacing the 959, i sorta.... cooked it (literally. it started smoking) and i dont need two chargers, i can just go inside and watch simpsons while the batts are charging.

so how much you sellin the deluxe for, guver?

edit- alas, the post counter is working....

on my 959 one of the internal components fell off...
Oh and I agree with the simpsons thing. I find that king of the hill works well also :roll:

JB-
I see you have yet to master the art of two quotes in one message. That’s very un-elder statesman-like of you…. lol

the quasar is AC/DC, but i wont have to worry about that because i set my mind on the intellipeak deluxe (unless Bill can convince me otherwise...)

I've been looking for my Operator Manual for the charger since I read your post and can't find it at the moment. Which bugs me to know end. I hope I have not miss spoke about the charging rates. Thanks guver for making the correction.

The Duratrax does not have a cooling fan, but the case is pre cut for one to be mounted.

lol... That reminds me of another bulliten board I'm on. If you make too many gramatical errors everybody jumps all over you lol.
The intellipeak should do well. My friend has had the digital one for over 2 years and its still going strong

i may not be able to do the double quotes. i haven't taken the time to figure that out-let me guess thought its --? well, at least these spoilers are cool lol


edit-about 30 seconds after my last update...
Yea!! I figured out the double quote thing. I'm so proud of myself... j/k